monkie

I reversed slowly off my drive while turning hard left as I usually do. It didn't feel quite right some how then there was a sudden and loud clunk from the back. I stopped, pulled back on my drive and realised that I had accidentally put the high range into diff lock when doing some work at the weekend. I put it back into high range with the diff lock off and took it for a test drive, turning on full lock both ways. All seems fine, no nasty nosies. Question is, am I likely to have done any damage? I didn't like the sound of the clunk!

Good to hear that you solved the problem. Out of curiosity ow many miles has that engine covered? Any one know if this is related to modern DERV fuel not lubricating the pumps on older diesel like it used to?

20 seconds of heat is alot unless it is very cold. Before you throw the towel in I would make darn sure the connections to and from the ignition switch are clean and good and try a set of these. About 10 seconds of heat in the UK on a frosty morning gets my TD started on the first turn: https://www.amazon.co.uk/BERU-GV602-Older-Generation-Glow/dp/B0068M68Z0 The really made all the difference to cold starts and that was before I rebuilt the engine!

I still think that there is a problem with the glowplugs/circuit some where because in your original post you say that the warning lamp isn't coming on. That needs addressing before you go down the route of head gaskets and other things. As Western says, make sure all the connections are good with no corrosion. Do you get 12v at the lamp with the bulb removed? Also in my experience the quality of the glow plugs makes all the difference. I once fitted cheap ones and they were no good from new making starting difficult. Beru plugs are what I use now and they are great.

Also, Trailerfitters videos on youtube are very good. Here is one on glowplugs. It is a 300tdi engine rather than the 2.5NA so the glowplugs are of a different type, but the principals shown are the same. Watch from 8:36 onwards.

I have tried to draw a simplified circuit diagram for you to help you identify where to take your measurements when the volt meter is sorted as above. As you can see, there isn't much to it. If you get a 12v reading from the starter motor terminal, at the ignition switch and then at the main feed when the key is held in the cold start position then the problem must be with the glow plugs. As recommended higher up, do a resistance test on all 4 plugs to see if they are all in agreement. If so, make sure there is a good earth to the engine block by connecting a jump lead from the negative terminal on the battery to one of the lifting eyes fitted to the engine. (all though I would have thought the starter motor wouldn't work if that is the case - but worth a try anyway I think).

Right it all seems to go wrong at point 4. I can't understand at all where that 24 volt reading is coming from given you apparently have x1 12v battery installed. Can you confirm the following: 1- You have just one battery 2- That battery gives you 12v across the terminals 3- You get 12v at the main terminal on the starter motor solenoid (from there it should go straight to the ignition switch via a thick brown wire)

Having a recap of what we know at this point: When the plugs were working okay you activated them as we all think you do by just holding the ignition key while the light comes on to indicate pre-heating then you start the engine The warning lamp bulb is working if you put a 12v supply to it You have a 12v battery and 12v alternator fitted You get 12v supply straight from the positive terminal of the battery (via the starter motor) to the ignition switch You've replaced the switch and get 12v at the switch terminal were the feed to the glow plugs connect when the switch is held in the pre-heating postion When you connect the feed wire on the switch you get 12v on the other end of the feed wire when the switch is held in the pre-heat position One of those 6 points must not be correct or the plugs would work as far as I can understand. As I said in an earlier post the glowplug circuit on these engines is very simple. However I don't know if the military Land Rovers added in a relay from the ignition switch. I think it would be a good idea to use your multimeter in continuity mode to check that the glow plug feed wire from the switch goes straight to the glow plugs.

I think the seal the Haynes manual is refering to is something to do with a crank case ventilation pipe not the glow plugs them selves. Other than putting a bit of copper grease on them and tightening to the correct torque, there is nothing special about refitting the glow plugs as far as I am aware. I don't know much about the military 24v systems. I thought it was something to so with the raidos they had fitted and nothing to do with the engine electrics? I can't understand how you have 12v at the feed but 24v at a glow plug?

Its been a few days since I made adjustments to the pump and although the problem has improved at tickover, I can still feel it happening when I am driving along at light engine load as if the throttle cable is sticking (new cable fitted just incase) and I always use DERV, never any bio fuel. I really think something is not quite right within the pump as I think I have ruled everything else out. Members on here have mentioned "Diesel Bob", Richard (Reb78) being the latest person to mention him. Is he a recommended person to contact regarding pump rebuilding? Only thing is, he is "up north" as I understand.

I've no idea how you have a reading of 24volts on the glow plugs. Have you taken them out for a visual check to see if they glow at the tips? I think that is the best way to check them.

The problem has got to be further up then. Take off the yellow/black feed wire to each plug and carefully check it to make sure it is okay and the terminals are clean. Then take each plug out and give it a resistance check as above. I also think you can't beat visually checking to see if a glowplug glows hot at the tip within about 7 seconds when energised. Test each plug individually by connecting it to the brown/red feed wire and hold it against the cylinder head with a pair of pliars while someone turns the key to energise the plug. Just be careful not to accidentally earth the feed wire when it is live! If you need a new plug, renew the lot. I've always found Beru to be good. The ones you need are Beru GV602. Hope that gets is sorted for you.

That's odd. It is such a simple circuit. So you have 12v at the switch then. Wire the switch up, then disconnect the brown/red feed wire from the glow plugs and get the volt meter on it. Maybe you need to wire up a new feed wire from the ignition switch?

I gave it a go, on the throttle stop adjustment as you described and then tuned up the idle on the other piece. I've got it idling a little lower than before and when I rev the engine up it comes back down to tick over nicely. Next time I have a chance to play I'll try a bit harder to replicate the problem, but so far so good. Thanks for your advice.

Yes - thanks for your advice. I will give this a try when I get a chance and report back, hopefully tomorrow. I'm feeling much more optimistic about the DPA DPS pump now!

^^^^Plus everyone loves the sound of a v8

Great - thanks for the information. When you say if it is set too high it will take a long time to return to idle - that sounds exactly like the problem to me because it will return idle on its own after a little while. It's funny why it only does it sometimes. I'll have a fiddle about with both settings. If I understand you correctly, lower the idle revs with the throttle stop then bring the idle to a nice tick over with the other adjustment. Is that right? Thanks

Thanks for the replies When I first put the engine in, I fitted a new Delphi lift pump that I checked pumped fuel. Although in the excitment of fitting the engine and getting it running I had forgotted to tighten the joint where the injector leak-off rail couples to the filter return so the next day there was alot of air in the system and starting was difficult and it ran like a bag of spanners. I bled it all out again and this time checked all the joints were tight. It starts really well and pulls great uphills in 5th so I'm quite confident about the transfer pressure and the fuel being free of air. But you have made me think of two other questions in this area - is it possible for a lift pump to give too much transfer pressure, or would it just return to the tank with a greater flow? I can't think how the transfer pressure would be regulated in any other way? Also, am I right in thinkin there might be a little gauze inside the FIP that could be clogged up and that could be causing funny things to happen? If so is it easy to get out and clean? I didn't know there are 2 governors on the pump, but that would make sense. I have today played around with that bolt/locnut adjusting the idle speed having never touched it before. although it obviously altered the idle speed from slow to fast, it had no effect on the problem. Is this part of the anti stall setting, or is there another adjustment I can play with? I haven't adjusted anything on the main throttle lever in terms of where it stops, but I don't think playing with that would help.

I've recently put a rebuilt turbo diesel 19J back into my 110 and done about 1,000 miles since the engine change. It has just started to occasionally let the revs pick up a little (I guess a couple hundred rpm at most, so nothing serious yet, but it has me concerned) at idle for a moment then settles back down to a nice tick over again, there is no smoke when it does this and the engine will stop fine if I turn it off on the key when idling fast. The engine was completly rebuilt, new pistons/rings, recon injectors, head was skimmed and the engine doesn't have a heavy breathing problem like 19Js have the reputation for. The only parts I didn't touch were the turbo (its's the turbo I got from Reb78 a few years ago) and the fuel injection pump (apart from checking the boost diaphragm and it was fine). This is what I have done so far to investigate the problem: - I initally thought it might be a sticky throttle cable and linkage so I disconnected the cable, made sure the linkages were well lubricated, but I managed to replicate the problem with the cable disconnected. holding the throttle lever on the pump in the idle position didn't bring the rpm down. - Worried that the problem might be oil getting in from the turbo seals, I disconnected the hose from the turbo to the inlet, it was clean and again I managed to replicate the issue with the turbo disconnected. My thoughts have now turned to a sticking governor in the injection pump. Before I take the pump off and get it to an injection specialiast, has anyone had any experience of a sticking governor in the dpa pump or does anyone have any other thoughts? Thanks

Not on old diesels, especially the pre-Tdi ones with indirect injection. In my experience they simply won't start easily with out a good 10-15 seconds of heat.

I think these would be the original wheels for a 1989 110 painted with something lighter than Limestone such as Chawton white: http://www.paddockspares.com/anr4636pm-16x5-5-lwb-rim-tube-type-o-e-manufacture-black-primer-coated.html I've got black modulars on at the moment but I don't really like the look of them on my 1988 110. I got some good condition secondhand steel rims (same type as in the link) from ebay, £50 for 5 and I have sprayed them myself in chawton white. I'm going to put Avon Rangemasters on the rims for a more original look.

Here's the switch and they ship to France. - Maybe get 2 switches just incase! http://www.paddockspares.com/prc2735-starter-switch-diesel-2-5na-2-5td.html The switch is held into the metal housing by one (or two) extremely small screws and of course they are in the most awkward place to access. I'm sure you will get your money's worth from a voltmeter on your 110.

I agree with the post above^^^. I don't think it's a good idea to short the wires while they are live. I guess it would be an okay idea providing you disconnect the positive terminial of the battery before bypassing the ignition switch, then just quickly put the positive lead back on the battery while someone confirms that the warning lamp lights up, as soon as it does, disonnect the battery again and put the wires back on the switch so you know where they go when you do replace the switch. Failing that I think given the simplicity of the circuit, I think the most likely problem is going to be the ignition switch and they are quite cheap, so it might be worth just getting the switch swapped and seeing if that fixes the problem. I think it will.

I can't remember if there is a dedicated bleed screw or not on the 300tdi FIP. You can just undo the fuel return banjo to check for air coming from the FIP. Hope that helps you.

If it is the same as on the 19J (2.5TD) and I'm sure it is, then there is no fuse or relay, it is a very simple arrangement. The feed from the positive terminal on the starter motor goes to the ignition switch via a thick brown wire then out to the glow plugs via an equally thick brown wire with a red trace. I think there will be a smaller brown/red wire coming from this to light up the dash light. I would guess either the bulb in the dash is dead or the ingnition switch is dead. You'll need to get to the ignition switch to look at the wires. Check you've got 12v on the brown wire from the starter motor terminal. Then check for 12V on the thick red/brown wire while turning the switch to the cold start position. I would imagine you won't have 12v there. If so, I think the ignition switch will be dead. Be very careful not to earth the feed any of these wires on this circuit. I didn't notice one of the glowplug terminals was ever so slightly touching the head. It resulted in the main feed melting because there isn't a fuse to blow!