monkie

Thank you. Actually that is a good point, it was something that when planning this work I didn't consider - it is quite a bit quieter in the cab now particularly noticable from a cold start with much less clatter going on. The other thing that was noticable but I think this will down to the rebuild and having good glowplugs, after 10 seconds of heat on a frosty morning it starts up just as quick as the Tdi did (I appreciate a Tdi doesn't need 10 seconds of heat though). When I used to have an old 19J, it took quite a bit of persausion to fire up on cold mornings, even with new Beru glowplugs.

Thanks Kev. I know that it makes sense in many ways to swap for a Tdi, but I do feel sorry when I see discarded 2.5 NAs and TDs ripped out and dumped. The Tdi conversion I did years ago made it more drivable but it never looked at home under the bonnet of my 1988 110 and I wanted to go back to a true 1980s vehicle. I love the factory look I now have and that I have a rebuilt late 19J. I've got your old injection pump off your 19J in bits at the minute with new seals on order. I will do a thread on taking that to bits as well. Hopefully I can remember where everything went!

Checking for wear. Here are the readings I took, the tollerance from the manual are in brackets: Camshaft endfloat (0.1-0.2mm), actual = 0.55 Crankshaft endfloat (0.05-0.15mm) actual = 0.25 Main bearing journal (63.487-63.500mm), actual from 1 to 5, 63.52, 63.48, 63.47, 63.48, 63.49 Crank pin journal (58.725-58.744mm), actual from 1 to 4, 58.70, 58.69, 58.69, 58.70 Con rod end float (0.15-0.356mm), actual from 1 to 4, 0.279, 0.152, 0.152, 0.229 The only good readings there are the con rod end float, everything else is out. The crank will be fixed by the regrind and new oversize shells fitted and an oversize thrust washer fitted, the camshaft was fixed by a new thrust washer. I used a bore gauge with a dial indicator to measure the bores for wear and shape. To measure the bores for wear, several reading are taken and compared to check for overal wear, out of round (caused by the sideways thrust of the piston and taper (more wear in the middle than the top and bottom causing a barrel shaped bore). Any wear here is sorted out by a rebore and oversize pistons and rings fitted: The standard size bore should be 90.47mm. 0.127mm ovality is allowed, 0.254mm taper is allowed. My bores were good and just needed a light deglaze.The highest wear figure was 0.07mm for ovality with 0.07mm taper and 90.55mm maximum bore size. I was happy with this and proceeded to lightly hone to deglaze the bores and get a nice cross hatch pattern for the new rings to bed in. The gasket surfaces were also cleaned up by using a square piece of wood and then 400 grit abrasive paper to remove any traces of gasket and muck. I then painted the block using red oxide while I waited to the new parts to arrive and the crank to come back from the engineering shop. The parts arrived and the crank came back from the engineering shop. £160 to take all journals back to 10 thou undersize. The results were great because the scorring looked awful. Here is a pic of a worn bearing in one of the big ends: Here's the new piston and ring assembly about to be assembled to the con rod plenty of oil on the gudgeon pin Cir clip back in place with the new assembly on a con rod Here's all 4 piston/con rod assemblies done with the crank back from the workshop Oil jet to cool the pistons fitted with new bolt and washers Oil jets put back in place with a new oversize main bearing shell in place also ready for the crank to go back in The bearings were well oiled and the crank placed back in the block The camshaft was also well oiled and put back in followed by the timing case. You can see what a difference the fresh paint makes: Before I went any further, I turned my attention to the injection pump. Remember the owner said that speed dropped off as he went up hills? This could be down to a few things, the first being that a 19J in good condition working well isn't that powerful at just 85 bhp and 203 Nm torque, but it could be a dodgy boost diaphragm in the injection pump. A pipe connects the high pressure side of the turbo to the fuel injection pump. As boost pressure builds, it acts on a diaphragm which pushes a pin in the injection pump increasing the fueling in proportion to the extra air available from the turbo. If this diaphragm is split, also sorts of nonsense can happen including poor performance up hills, pressurisation of the fuel tank, air in fuel causing poor starting and even a surge in engine speed as diesel flows from the pump to the turbo. For the sake of £20 you can fix all this stuff easily on a poorly 19J: The boost diaphragm isn't a difficult job to do, while the pump is off, it is even easier and clearer to show you. You don't want muck in the pump, so clean off the pump using a cleaning spray such as brake cleaner - don't allow anything such as dirt or brake cleaner to enter the pump Now it is clean, you can cut the securing wire and undo the two bolts holding on the diaphragm cover. With the cover off, recover the spring and take out the diaphragm. The diaphragm can be torn, split or just worn away. Replace it using this part: http://www.delphipartsstore.co.uk/fuel- ... ragm_3.htm Putting all the other parts back to build up the engine is litterally as easy as reversal of removal, just taking care with the new parts and using the correct torque figures from the manual rather than just guessing. I will show the timing belt part though for clarity if anyone is doing this job with the engine on a stand like me or in the vehicle. I used the locking pins that came with that timing set and pullers I got off ebay for £20. I have to say the job is a lot easier with the head off and the engine on a stand rather than in the Land Rover. The fuel injection pump was put back on first paying attention to the marks made relative to the case and pump body. The sprokets were put back on the crank, cam and injection pump, then a new belt tensioner was fitted. Number 1 piston was put to TDC The pump was locked at the correct position using the timing tool Timing marks on the sprokets lined up and the belt put on and tensioned I then put the cover back on along with the new water pump - its really starting to take shape now: When the engine was off the stand and the flywheel put back on, I put the timing tool into the timing hole on the flywheel housing to show you what it looks like when you lock the crank at TDC using this tool When the job was complete the 300Tdi had to come out and I have to admit that I did have a moment of "what are you thinking Phil!" But there was no turning back now after all that work and I needed to sell the Tdi to pay for the cost of the rebuild! Tdi out, a few alterations made interms of radiator mounts and putting the 19J engine mount used on the Tdi back onto the 19J, then I was ready to put it in Right, so that was complete in July 2016. If fired up and ran really well which was very satisfying and a releif. I took it easy for the first 500 miles then changed the oil. So far I have done about 2,000 miles since then with no trouble at all. No oil in the air filter, no heavy breathing and it starts really well even on frosty mornings with about 10 seconds of glow plug heat. There is of course a noticable drop in power compared to the Tdi and also a rise in fuel consumption. But I am now a step forward to getting back to the 1980s with my 1988 110 and I am really pleased with the result and hopefully the engine will be good for two more decades if not longer with good regular servicing and sympathetic driving. The original head was scrapped, I got a replacment off ebay for £30. Had it skimmed, ground the valves in and fitted it. All other parts were replaced such as fuel lift pump, water pump, timing belts, ancillary belts, gasket sets, filters etc. Keeping in mind the engine cost £200, I think I spent about £400 on parts including the engineering work and new piston sets, but got £400 for the Tdi when I sold it, so I have a rebuilt 19J for £200 out of pocket and really enjoyed doing the rebuild learning as I went. I hope these pictures show that it isn't a too hard job to do at home provided you have the correct tools and take your time. I'm happy to try and answer any questions except for "why did you sell the Tdi for a 19J" - can't really answer that one other than I like the old 19J and if I was sensible and concerned about power and economy I would sell the 110 and get a transit van: That ain't happening

I didn't go and celebrate at this point because I had some damage to inspect now the head was off: Here is one of the pistons. Looks okay? Look closer and you can see it is cracked across the crown You can't really see well on these pics, but the others also had hairline cracks in the "V" shape in the crown. Piston 4 also looked like the surface was begining to give up under the heat of combustion. Piston number 1 needed no expert advice to tell it was well knackered! At first I thought that something had hit it, but there was no other damage to the head or the bores. I think it is starting to melt from bad combustion caused by a faulty injector - anyone have any other thoughts on that? I took the swirl chambers (combustion chambers, hot spots, hot plugs... lots of names) out of the head and then took a look for any cracks. Every single cylinder had cracked between the valves where the metal is thinnest, some were hard to see as they were hairline cracks, but they were cracks none the less. Number 1 has also a bad crack from the swirl chamber to valve seat. This head was scrapped Now to take the timing case off the front of the block. First the viscous fan, water pump and alternator were removed. Then I had to deal with the crank pulley and bolt. Top tip here. Don't do what I did below - I damaged the pulley as you can see Get this set off ebay and use the proper tools. It is much easier and you won't damage anything: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-En ... Sw8w1X4RAA Before the damper is removed, you can see the marks in it for TDC, and here is proof that number 1 is indeed at TDC With the right tools I removed the pulley from the damper with ease: Next job is to lock the crank to allow you to undo the damper bolt. This is on very tight. Lots of methods of doing this with the engine installed in the vehicle, but with it on an engine stand this is the best way: Get your self a proper locking tool (It will also be used to hold the crank when doing the bolt back up later), piece of scaffold tube to rest on the floor to hold the crank and stop the engine tipping over on the stand while you grunt and swear undoing the bolt. It will give if you use a big breaker bar with a extension piece on to get the leverage Before the cover will come off, don't forget the cover below: Timing case cover off, belt and tensioner discarded Pullies off Injection pump position marked up before you undo the three mounting nuts (these marks were already there) Undo bolts securing the pump and remove Next, the cam followers were removed by undoing the securing bolt (discard them and get new bolts and washers) The follower bodies pull out: I used needle nose pliars to pull the followers out Here they all are removed and kept in order. I put them in sandwich bags to keep them together in order. Sod's law came in to force and I dropped the last follower into the block Okay, with the timing case off and the cam followers out, it is almost ready to take the camshaft out: First the vacuum pump drive and oil pump drive scew gear has got to be removed as these are driven by the camshaft: You can see from this picture that the oil filter housing has been removed I still couldn't remove the vacuum pump drive. I couldn't quite understand why I couldn't until I removed the gasket for the oil filter housing and found a grub screw holding it in place! Now it could be lifted out The sump was then removed by taking out all of the bolts and breaking the sealant with a scraper With the sump off, the engine was turned 180 degrees which was a lot easier to do than I thought now that a lot of weight had been stripped from the engine: The oil pump was removed and the screw gear came out. The camshaft could then be taken out (I actually think this pic is of it going back in, but you get the idea). Before it was removed, the endfloat was checked against the thrust plate. It was a similar process to the crankshaft as below Now to check for crankshaft end float - that is the side to side movement of the crank which is controlled by the thrust washer, if it is excessive, you can get oversize washers to take up the wear and bring the endfloat back in to tollerance. It is an indicator of wear so it is important to do and note down what it is for comparison against the figures given in the workshop manual. You can do it by pushing the crank as far as it will go one way, then use feeler gauges as below to measure the gap between the crank and thrust washer: For accuracy, I actually took the measurements using a dial guage by pushing the crank all the way in, zeroing the gauge and then measuring how far I could push the crank forward again: The crank was scorred and needed a regrind, the main and big end bearing shells were also worn. So the bearing caps were undone, crank removed and sent to an engineering shop for a ginde to 10 thou under size. With the engine now stripped right down, the block was wheeled outside and given a scrub down with hot soapy water followed by a jet wash. I also washed out the the water jackets in the cooling passages. The amount of rubbish in there was shocking! All traces of old gasket were scraped off, an airline used to dry everything followed by a spray with WD40 to stop the parts rusting:

Last year I wanted to return my 1988 110 back to original(ish) condition in terms of engine, body colour, wheels+Tyres etc. Last year my 110 hard top was painted in Limestone, Disco 300Tdi and had black modular rims fitted. I know the 300 Tdi is a great engine and better design than the 19J, however I don't use my 110 for work and don't work it hard, so I'm not bothered about the 300Tdi in terms of better mpg, reliability etc. I want my 110 to be close to original as it was in 1988 for bumbling around in. This back to the 1980's project is still ongoing, to date I have fitted the rebuilt 19J and painted all 3 doors and the bonnet back to Shire Blue. I have also sand blasted some steel rims and painted them in a Land Rover White from the late 1980s (can't remember the exact white now) and got 2 of the 5 rims fitted with Avon Rangemasters. Its a rolling project and I'm in no rush as I just do bits here and there as I find the time. Last April, I got off ebay a running 19J engine with a good radiator and all of the ancillary parts needed such as header tank, PAS reservoir and all the pipes and hoses for under £200. It was a late 19J fitted to a 90 from 1991. The owner was doing the opposite to me! He told me that it started and ran okay with smoke clearing after a minute from a cold start, pulled well but speed dropped down up long hills. It had an oil leak from the rear seal he discovered when fitting a new clutch. I wasn't going to just fit a 25 year old engine with 130,000 miles on the clock straight into my 110, particularly given the reputation the 19J has: heavy breathing, loose swirl chambers, cracked pistons, cracked heads, cracked blocks etc. I stripped it down to see what £200 worth of 25 year old 19J TD engine looks like........ Hear is the beast hanging off my engine hoist in my rather untidy garage, starter motor removed and put away for safe keeping. I had sprayed it in engine degreaser and then jet washed the muck off it so I could see what I was dealing with and make life a bit easier: Removed the clutch followed by the flywheel (the fly wheel is one heavy piece, you don't want it dropped on your toes ) You can now see the rear crank seal. It doesn't look like it is leaking to me. Flywheel cover off, now I can see an oil leak! Here's the back of the flywheel cover in a mess with sealant The piece from the engine stand was fixed to the block using 4 M10 high tensile bolts fitted to the holes in the block where the flywheel cover was bolted on Right, now its off the hoist and on the engine stand, proper work can start to see what condition it is really in. For washing parts - I don't have a proper parts washer. I know there are lots of opinions on this, here's what I do: I don't use diesel because it is too messy and sticks to the parts. I don't use petrol either because of the fumes and massive fire hazzard. I used white spirit because it was relatively cheap from toolstation, did the job and isn't going to explode into flames if I accidentally make a spark the other side of the garage! Some cheapo tooth brushes and a paint roller tray filled with white spirit worked a treat: The hose from the turbo to manifold and the line from high pressure side of turbo to the boost diaphragm in the fuel injection pump were removed from the turbo: Ancillary belts slackened and PAS pump removed: Oil feed to turbo removed ...and from the block Turbo oil return pipe removed Turbo and manifolds removed Here's all the stuff removed on my work bench Next job was to pull the head off to get the fisrt glimpse inside the top end to reveal the first clues to the true condition of this engine. I took off the thermostat housing to see a load of messy sealant The injectors were taken out next. I don't have any test equipment, so these were just be exchanged for rebuilt ones from Paddocks. Note the copper washers are still on the injectors. Make sure you get them out. Also there are some smaller steel washers that sit under the nozzel. Don't forget about these later on! Rocker taken out Card made to keep push rods in the correct order for refitting Head bolts removed - but don't forget to take off the oil feed at the back of the head before trying to remove the head from the block! I refitted some of the bolts for the manifold to use as levering points because the head was stuck to the gasket. I used a bolt and the block to lever the head off, not a screwdriver between the head and block! Bingo - the head is off. Because the pre Tdi diesel heads are iron not aluminium, they are very heavy. Make sure you have a good grip and can lift it safely on your own, better still get a mate to help and then go and have a drink to celebrate.

Thanks Richard, I will. I think it wasn't software that ruined my pictures though - it is my lack of camera skills!

Here is a link to thread on the LRO forum for my 19J rebuild if anyone is interested: http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=98553

The blue packet would put me off personally for such an important part! My personaly view on the clutch is the same as Mo. On my 110 with a TD engine, I have a standard Valeo clutch and a genuine oil seal and have no problems. It was the cheap oil seal that gave me problems. So with the money saved with the standard clutch pays for the genuine oil seal.

The seal is quite expensive, it depends upon how much you like taking engines out and in again The proper ones come with a plastic collar so that you don't damage the seal when you put it over the crank shaft.

About 20 quid.

Yes, there is this: http://www.paddockspares.com/oem-heavy-duty-clutch-kit.html For just ~£20 more, probably worth it.

Good point! I've got the standard Valeo 19/110 kit fitted to my 19J and also when I had a 300Tdi installed, I don't do much towing I just use my 110 as a van really with just occasional towing and touch wood, never had any clutch problems. Maybe you need something a bit more substantial if you are pulling heavy loads all the time or spend a lot of time off road?

I've got a Valeo clutch kit fitted to my 110. I've just searched for it on LRSeries and this one has come up - doesn't look like a bad price to me: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/12598/STC8358BB-CLUTCH-KIT-2-5-NA-TD-200-300-TDI.html?search=STC8358&page=1 Regarding that oil seal - I made the mistake once of using a none genuine one. The engine was back out the following weekend to fit a genuine seal

Might be the difference between on that comes in a green box and one that comes in a blue box

I think it is this. Part number ERR7143, crank seal in the timing cover: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5622/ERR7143-OIL-SEAL-CRANKSHAFT.html

Because the cam is going at half crank speed it is possible to lock the crank at TDC with the cam only half way round a full turn, that's what I was referring to. Yes you are right, get the timing marks lined up and try to lock the crank at TDC assuming all is well with your timing to start with (I get the impression that you are doubting the timing of your engine) it should lock with the tool if the cam is in the right position. With the glow plugs out it will be much easier to turn by hand and won't bump around TDC. This video might be of help to you as it explains how to double check the pump just to be sure?

Take the glow plugs out and that will make it easier to turn by hand and will stop it fighting back. The cam rotates at half crank speed, so when the crank is at TDC the cam will either be where you want it or 180 degrees out. Get the crank locked at TDC and see where everything else is in relation to where it should be, get the valve clearances checked too while you're there. HTH

They were probaby wearing fluorescent jackets, that's the only way I can think of how they did it!

Yep - I'd look at the glow plugs too. They need to get a good glow right at the tips. Avoid dirt cheap ones that come in a blue box, I find they don't often glow at the tips fooling you in to thinking the problem isn't the glowplugs. Get a decent set and give them a quick check first so you can see that they get hot quickly at the tips. If it is a Td5 then I think there are only 4 glow plugs fitted. It will be these ones: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/glow-plug-heater-plug-beru-err6066g-p-6152.html Quite a few topics asked about recently on here have been about either glows plugs or security. I've drawn the conclusion that a duff set of glow plugs seem to be an effective security device in winter

Also, avoid dark and quiet car parks where possible. Good lighting, as public as possible and in view of CCTV if possible

PS. I don't know if you are able to read the text in the picture posted above. If not, it explains the importance of the domed washer being inplace to stop the combustion gasses causing the nozel to overheat, it also warns you to be careful that when you take a washer out of the pack to ensure you only have one. The little sods are good at stacking and it is easy to accidentally have two stacked up. HTH

The injectors sit in the head on two surfaces, hence the two washers. The hole drilled into the head steps down to 3 different diameters. The larger diameter is to fit the injector body, the next size down is to accept the nozzel and then there is just a small hole at the bottom to allow fuel into the swirl chamber. The washer will not fall through! See the picture below. The large copper washer fits over the nozzel and seals where the injector body sits in the largest diameter hole in the head. The smaller domed washer fits right at the bottom (dome facing upwards). The best way I have found to fit this washer is to let is slide down some wire. If you use a screw driver that is magnetised at the tip, then you will just keep bringing the washer back out again!

Yes, you should fit both. the domed steel washer fits at the nozzel and the copper washer fits on the injector body above the nozzel. Here's the parts diagram:

I have always fitted the domed steel washer when replacing the injectors. From memory my gasket set didn't include them and I had to buy them separately. They sit right at the bottom of the injector nozzel to stop hot gasses getting past the nozzel. Part number 12H220L I'd get a good stash of them to keep safe in your tool box so that you have a set to hand incase you have to remove the injectors again for some reason. Make sure that the old ones are out of the head first. Occasionally they get stuck in the head and they can be very difficult to see. If one is stuck, get it turning round in the head by pushing it with a small screw driver then you should be able to lift it out using the screw driver. https://www.lrdirect.com/12H220L-Washer/?gclid=CjwKEAiAqozEBRDJrPem0fPKtX0SJAD5sAyHzNPzMFfpw77wdj0s8dhmQkXuz07YK4yQaG4AqarOgxoCUJbw_wcB

I suppose that's a good result in the end then even though it has delayed your plans. I don't like their excuse for the delay - they could have explained that before now and given you the option of either waiting for a new replacement or offered your money back.