monkie

I had a good look at it over the weekend. As a few of you said, It turned out to be the expander mechanism sticking. The shoes and drum were a bit worn, but after everything was cleaned, put back and adjusted it all works fine. Thanks to you all for the help and advice - it saved me a few quid on parts.

^^^ As above. I'd just add that it is wise to make sure the area around the old pump is clean and dry before you do anything. You don't want any crud and water getting in the fuel system.

I think Snagger makes a really good point and if it were me I would make them aware of this thread as they need to stop messing around and sort the problem out. I hope they do eventually read this thread because we are all potential customers as far as Paddocks are concerned; speaking for myself I am certainly going to be looking at other suppliers over Paddocks if I need parts that cost more than £50 in the future as I just don't want any hastle if something goes wrong. In terms of Christmas I think it is acceptable to hear nothing between Christmas eve and the day after New year's day, but after that it is business as usual in my opinion. I would start to make a right old fuss now if it were my 2 and half grand by showing them this thread and getting trading standards on their case. This is utterly unacceptable, it doesn't matter who or where the damage was caused, not your problem, they need to sort it out.

I think a load leveller will sort the problem out. As the two replies above say, if you don't get the engine and gearbox at the right angle to each other you will struggle for a month of Sundays. I think if you put the engine down, put a load leveller on your hoist, check that the clutch is still aligned correctly, get the engine back into the bay and get the tip of the input shaft into the clutch, ensure the engine and gearbox are alinged then the engine should push on to the gearbox..... fingers crossed. As Eightpot says, you will wonder why the hell it didn't go the first time you did it!

Have you got the engine suspended from a load leveller so that you can adjust the angle of the engine to get it level with the gearbox?

Only the once for a simple enquiry. I couldn't tell you how many times I was passed round until someone could answer my question!

Just keep on to them every day if you can until it will be easier for them to sort it out that have to listen to you on the phone again!

Don't touch it because as soon as you do you will have complicated the situation and Paddocks can argue you've damaged it. As everyone else has said, your contract is with Paddocks. Paddocks will have to refund or replace as it has arrived to you not in a useable condition. Make sure all of your correspondance is in writing. If you speak to them on the phone ask who you are speaking to, note the date and time of the call and then sumarise the call in a letter or email to them asking them to respond in writing so everything is logged incase you need to use anything as evidence later on. Keep on them so they know you are not going to go away. This link may have some helpful information. If you are getting no where, write to trading standards attaching your pictures with Paddocks copied in. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/return-faulty-goods/ Hopefully all this will be unnecessary and they will sort you out a replacement and apologise to you with suitable gesture of good will.

Have you tried putting a jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block just to double check the earth? Make sure all of the contacts on the battery and starter motor are clean and secure.

Thanks Les, I think that is what I will do. My hand brake has been sticking since before Christmas, I wouldn't be surprised if I have worn the shoes and/or drum.

I've had problems before with the hand brake, I'd say it's never been satisfactory since I've had it. I don't think the transfer box is a later one, but it wouldn't surprise me if someone in the past has swapped bits about. I ordered shoes ages ago to fit and they were too big (stupidly I didn't take a note of the part number I had) so I just cleaned everything up and adjusted it. Now its really getting on my nerves. I think I'd better take it apart first before ordering any parts.

Thank you very much Western for the help. I didn't consider new shoes may still have asbestos in them! When I put RTC6179 in the search on lrseries, it suggests STC2990. A Google search tells me RTC6179 has been supseded by STC965. Should the hand brake on my 1988 110 be rod opperated? It is currently cable opperated.

I want to order parts to sort out my sticking hand brake on my 1988 110. Can any one confirm that RTC3403 are the correct shoes and the green springs (FRC8549) are correct without me having the take the drum off to have look. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10621/RTC3403-LT230-TRANS-BRAKE-SHOES.html?search=RTC3403&page=1 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6718/FRC8549-SPRING-TRANSMISSION-BRAKE-SHOE.html?search=FRC8549&page=1

* Sorry, Thermostat

^^^Plus the oil pressure switch and the termostat bulb fitted into the housing are also the same part numbers for both engines so you'll be fine.

My understanding is that the pistons for the 2.5TD will fit the 2.5NA. The difference being that the crowns on the pistons for the TD are coated with something (teflon I think) to help them cope with the higher temperatures from turbo charging. As everyone else has said, Turners will be able to answer all of your questions with certainty I'm sure. It will be interesting to hear what they say about who actually makes the pistons. It wouldn't surprise me if the brands you mention all source the pistons from the same manufacturer.

The British Army thought so for quite a while!

It's refreshing to see a 12J overhauled and looking this good rather than taken out and put on ebay looking oily and dirty. Looks like you've done a great job! Where do the heater hoses go to from the T piece, is it something to do with the block heater?

Sounds very much like an earth fault to me. Check the earth point on the bulkhead under the bonnet making sure the contacts are clean, I think this is where the gauges earth. Do the same for the other earths from the lights and else where as they tend to get a bit corroded over the years making odd things happen

My tip from experience is when you take a part off, put all the nuts, bolts and washers back where they came from where ever possible even if you are going to renew them later. Otherwise you will end up with a big box of fixings and you won't have a clue where 75% of them go! I think a combination of both the Land Rover Manual, Land Rover Parts Book and the 90/110 Haynes (not the restoration manual) is good. The Haynes presents some of the info like torque settings and specs in an easier to look up format in my opinion.

Has it started doing this since you took it to the garage to sort out your glow plug problem? If so, I would take it back to the garage and get them to sort it out FOC,it may well be that they have disturbed or damaged something perhaps.

Glad you have got it all sorted in the end. Now you have an earth fault your money was certainly well spent on a multimeter. Good luck!

I'm not familiar with Japanese diesels at all so could well be as suggested abouve. However the inline injection pump and shape of the rocker housing looks very reminiscent of my old Mercedes 2.5D (that was 5 cylinder but there was a 4 cylinder version 2.0L).

What do you mean by "had some power screwed into it"? Also when you say it has no real power, what are you comparing it to? It might point to a low boost pressure issue, that could result in a low mpg. I think the easiest and cheapest thing to look at first is to give it a good service if due (oil change, oil, fuel and air filter - clogged up filters aren't going to help mpg) then take off the intercooler and clean out all the accumulated oil with some petrol (make sure you get all the petrol fumes out before reinstalling the intercooler). While the intercooler is off remove all of the rubber hoses from the turbo, intercooler and inlet manifold and carefully inspect all of them for splits, tears and delamination - a dodgy hose which has split or delaminated can lower the boost pressure - that would account for low mpg and poor performance.

Thanks for the reassurance - it was quite a bang!