Frax

Hi and thank you for the replies, good link Matt - will have a look at the auction site and see what I can find. I take it that there is a set height for a nato hitch ?

Can you tow a Sankey with a Bradley tow ball – jaw type with pin. I am looking to buy a Sankey but don’t want to change my tow ball as I also have an ifor Williams trailer so just wondered if the pin is OK for towing a Sankey. I know I could fit the trailer with a ball hitch but would like to leave it standard if possible. If I have stuck this in the wrong section or if this question has been asked before I am sorry, I have done a hunt but I am not the best at it. My other problem will be finding one for sale in Aberdeenshire – I have only ever seen one up here. Regards Frax

If you are flying from Aberdeen give Overtons http://www.overtongarage.co.uk/ they are only 5 min from the Airport.

My one was like that, it was rubbing against the cover plate, found out that they did a mod to the cam belt pulley. Bought the new pulley and fitted it but have not been back in for a look since. You can find details here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=74174&st=40

Well Mo you did say it would never end.

Thanks Chris, front brakes are tight, they are new. No noise now from back end - there was but it turned out to be a u/s UJ which I replaced this morning.

Turned out to be a long thread as it turns out, started with lift pump then timing and seals and ended I hope with vibration. I suppose that is the way it goes though - thanks to all who have help and stayed with me. Well till next time

Strange one but looks like a good idea. Can you not repair the one you have or is a case of cant find the parts.

Well they turned up (miracle) out I was again under the old girl. Removed u/s UJ and fitted new greasable one - replaced and went for a run 30mph and no vibs so foot down and at 70mph still like a good one with no vibration. Bought 4 of these but only changed the u/s one so have lots of spares for the next time. I did notice that the front and back props are different. The front is phased and the back is not - is this correct. Cant remember splitting them but it was in bits for about 8 month.

I fitted a Momo to mine with boss, If your changing you will have to state what you have, 200tdi, 300tdi as the splines are different for the boss.

Tires balanced today and still vibrating so went over to a mates and put it on his ramp, not that you need a ramp to get underneath but he offered. Checked UJ play about 3 days ago and I had slight movement but nothing scary. Tonight we found that the back Prop UJ next to the diff was gone, he recons that the noise I was getting was the little roller bearing destroying them selves and now some have left. New greasable UJ ordered and with some luck will be here tomorrow. Will update if they arrive.

What is your strange rear prop like, home made effort or how does it differ from standard.

I was for a 70 mile round trip yesterday and I started to get a strange metallic noise on acceleration. It only happened when power was on and stopped when I was not pushing the throttle. Today I jacked up the back end and turned the wheels one at a time – when one was turned the other turned in the opposite direction and prop also turned (normal I think) slight movement in UJ’s but quite a bit of slop in back diff when I turned the prop by hand. Decided to drain the oil to check for any metal, nothing there so filled up with new. Next the front end jacked up, turned the wheels again by hand but this time only one wheel turned along with prop, the other wheel did not turn ?? – same both sides. Not sure about this one. No strange noise from back or front. Went for a run and the noise had gone except for the slack being taken up on the transfer box and diff on take off. Did find that the diff breather pipe had melted and sealed si the diff could not breath - fixed and re routed. Is there anything you can do about the slop in the diff and is my front end working as it should. Regards Frax

Wingnut I thought I was the unlucky one, I landed up not fitting my new pump as the old one was OK so will just keep it for a spare. Went for a run today - 70 mile round trip pulling a 2 ton trailer (nothing like breaking it in gently). All went OK except I have an annoying squeak which seams to be speed related and only happens when the engine is pulling. .....something else to look at....vibs at 50 mph + but may need to balance my tires and check my UJ's. Never a dull moment..

I could do it without removing the radiator but after the first time when I got it one tooth out I like to see what I am doing. It would be easy as I have an electric fan. Saying that I have done the job so often now that I am a lot more confident. Glad you liked the build thread - I enjoyed doing it and still read over it now and then.

I will do that, I am hoping to get some miles on her before I ever have to take another radiator out. Its not a bad job to do but when you take it apart 4 times in one month it gets a bit to much. Thank you for your help - if you had not told me about the pulley I would have never known and I could see me having to do this on a regular basis.

Good to see it was a relativity easy fix.

Nice one Wabbit the Bearmach pulley turned up yesterday. No fault of LRDirect who I asked to deliver quick. They did post it next day but the delivery company dropped it off at the wrong house, just my luck. Great quality pulley though - fitted and back on the road at last..

What age is yer 90 ? Front and back are different sizes if discs but it looks like you have drums.

Is there any lift in the gear stick, can you move it up and down in the housing. I have never had a box apart but just wondered if the stick had dislodged from its socket.

Yes it should, but my point being is it in gear and which gear is it in. You can always check through the transfer box with it running and see if it makes any differences to the gear you think you are in.

I would agree but why would it happen by turning the started with it in gear, (That I don't understand) My thought is that if say the Transfer box was knocked into low it may give the feeling of being in second gear. That is why I would check that - I know my Transfer box feels a bit mussy when trying to find a gear and I know that the linkages can also get loose and the top shuttle stiff if not used. Easy check which is worth doing.

As said check the Transfer box gear stick, I can not see that anything you have done would effect the gear box in any way. Make sure the Transfer box gear stick is OK and making good contact. You could I suppose have knocked a linkage from this stick.

Starting it in gear should not effect the gear box, it might not do he starter motor any good though. I would start it in neutral and then see how the box performs.

Sell the 110 and buy a 90.