Trevorevans

Guys I know of a v8 auto disco with a cracked block going cheap, what I need to know is if any of the parts excluding body, all of which I assume will be the same as it's from the same year, be any good for my 300 tdi manual i.e. are the diffs/axles the same ratio, is any of the drive train apart from the engine and 'box any good to me?.

While reversing I heard a loud 'twang' type noise followed by a just as loud 'what the hell was that?' stuck my head underneath but couldn't see anything out of place, got closer to home (2 miles on) and she started making some real nasty noises from rear drivers side but only when turning left, fine in a straight line or turning right, Outside my house I found axle oil leaking out and running down the off side brake disc. Not really investigated further than that so far but anyone got any ideas? - 97' 300 Tdi.

I checked my swivels today and there is grease in them but was wondering exactly how much should be in there? How do you know when the levels correct? Or is it just a case of get as much as you can in there.

Thinking the same as Gren above, does seem quite suspicious really, it's like the pikeys that sell you a dog that's trained to go 'Home' at its first opportunity. I bought my car, quite a rare and desiarable Audi (Quattro of corse lol) with only one key preasant, I only found this out at the time of collection (maybe I should have inquired previous to collection but it's just about the only question I hadn't asked at viewing/deposit) the seller said thats all he had but I was paranoid for weeks that I'd wake up to find it gone. Hope you get it back.

On my disco 1 I have sealed the front sunroof shut by opening it filling around the edge with silicone and shutting it then sealed around the trim where it meets the bodywork, I have sealed the rear sunroof but not around the trim yet, and I still get a leak but not as bad when parked facing up hill for some reason but just as bad as ever when parked downhill, I am going to seal around the rear sunroof trim ASAP but I now suspect the roof rails may be the problem where they are bolted through the roof, anybody got any thoughts on that theory? I only get a leak in the front near the corners of the screen and where the sunroof switches are. I have also sealed along the top of the windscreen.

Wow this is quite a scary read, I myself have just purchased a set of rear trailing arms from Tarantula 4x4 not sure if they'll get fitted now anybody heard of this guys reputation?

I'd also like your guys opinion on what happens after the manifold, do I run the pipe up the side of the snorkel with cable ties or drill a hole in the air box and seal around the pipe/hole with wynns gasket maker or the like and run it up inside the snorkel? (safari if it makes any difference)

Guys I just got my wading kit which includes a breather extension for the fuel tank but I'm not 100% sure on where the breather is, am I right in thinking it's beneath the inspection cover in the rear load space/boot floor?

Thanks for the advice, just had words with a heavy plant mechanic and asked if the injectors flooding the head could have caused it to crack, he said the same, with out doubt not a chance. I'll be getting the vehicle back soon (probably the weekend) so if anybody is close or can suggest a landrover knowlagabe garage/mechanic in the Rhondda area please advise.

Need your opinions on what I've been told by the mender. We started with the issue of knackerd injectors causing the poor running so they were tested and proved defective so re-cond but as mentioned did not cure the fault. Posted here and advised to do compression test and that it could be a leaky exhaust valve, spoke with mechanic who said he was going to do a compression test but discounted the exhaust valve leaking idea saying " doubt it, they never go wrong". Latest theory is that while the injectors were not functioning correctly 'raw fuel' was being forced into the head causing it to crack. Is this idea a valid one? Or am I being put off by someone who doesn't really want to get involved in what could turn out to be major work?. I don't know if the compression test has been carried out but do know that the head has not been removed so he is using 'the force' in order to identify the problem or just plain guessing.

Sorry can't help with the reverse light issue, but if by saying 'dashboard lifting' you mean curling up near the windscreen there are kits available from various company's to resolve this the only one that I recall at the moment though is Bearmach. HTH and good luck with the reverse light.

Sorry forgot to mention that another symptom tha coincides with the problem is fuel leaking from the joint in the exhaust manifold just below the intake manifold where the EGR is blanked off as in picture -

Do I really need to go that far? I'm talking green laning here not competition/trial and by deep water I mean such levels as encountered on Strata Florida and the like. Though the fuel tank breather is included in the kit I am looking at. I'm more confused about the other kit where a new access cover for the timing cover is included as I have no idea what this is.

Well guys looks like the 300 tdi in my Disco has run down the curtain and joined the choir invisible, it has ceased to be. Bit of background - when we had the heavy snow recently it decided that very same afternoon would be a good time to have a long rest, it was/ is running but it seems only on 3 cylinders and is not happy, drives but very smokey and seems to run smoother when the turbo comes in, no signs of head gasket failing. Had the injectors tested as it runs on home brew bio now and again and thought that maybe with the cold weather a bit had congealed however the test showed that 2 were basically squirting fuel and the other 2 were a bit ropey so had all four reconditioned, put them back in and it runs exactly the same. Fuel is getting to the injectors as they squirt fuel when you crack the nut off so it appears the fuel/lift pump is working correctly so I'm thinking the only other thing that can be wrong is that the engine it's self has a cylinder down and is therefore knackerd, unless you guys can come up with any other possibilities?. Failing that and working on the scenario that I'm gonna have to chuck the engine away and replace it what should I replace it with? V8 is out, can't afford the petrol and it does get used off road and they don't like water. So do I replace the 300 tdi with another or can I put a 200 tdi in it's place, which is the more reliable engine? Can I even put a 200 in without major work, changing the gearbox etc. Please help it's been out of action for too long now and I'm missing the mud.

Hi guys I'm after a little help and advice, I've been looking to get a wading kit for a while now as I realise that driving through deep water without one is not doing my motor the world of good and could end up being very expensive. I have come across lots of kits but have found one on flebay made up of top quality air line and air line fittings for a very reasonable price, I was just about to buy when another ad caught my eye now this threw up something that I'd not heard of before, the ad reads - 'They consist of all the breather pipes for the axles, gearbox/transfer box and timing cover which include the replacement access cover to correctly seal the timing box area'. Now I know what all the pipes do/where they go but am confused by the 'replacement access cover' what is this?. Also I have been advised not to fit a permanant breather to the timing cover as this can cause a build up of debris inside the cover and cause damage, and informed that fitting the wading plug before a days off roading and removing after is a much better option. So what I'm asking is what is the described cover? and do I realy need it as this adds significant cost to the kit. Thanks in advance.

My old man had a Lexus Ls 400 running on LPG and you always had to start and run her for a short while with the control unit set to petrol then switch to gas when it warmed up a bit, it would start on gas but would cut out as you described unless it was very warm outside. The way we used to do it was start on petrol keeping an eye on the temp gauge and as soon as it started to move you could 'switch over' and she always ran fine then.

I would be interested to know if this works and it's longevity. I have a disco 1 with twin sunroofs (I know, should have listened but they seemed like an attractive bonus at the time) and the guy I bought it off told me they didn't leak (again, yeh I know) but after the first downpour it was clear the front one did so I sealed it with duck tape which appeared to solve it for a while but the tape beaks down really quickly and is not cheap so this operation becomes quite boring very quickly. We then had heavy snow which when melted seemed to show up a leak from the rear as well so I sealed around the glass of both sunroofs with silicone, I did this as I did intend to take out the head liner to find the point if ingress and rectify it however I still have water coming in even after sealing around the plastic trim as well thinking the bonding may have broken down. My next step is to open both roofs wack a load of silicone around the edges/seals and close them sealing them both shut, I don't really want to do this but as they sound like a baby's rattle when they're open so I only ever used them while it was parked up in car parks in the summer so it wouldn't get too hot in there I am beginning to wonder if that's the best option but if your idea works it may be a viable alternative as I could still use the roofs in the summer.

Don't go for a 2.7 terrano my uncle has one and it's never on the road, electronic gizmos engine/fuling go wrong all the time. seriously he will get it sorted and within a month or so it will be broken again. I wanted a cheap off road toy and he offered it to me, I've only just stopped laughing when I see him and I've had my disco 6 months now. Needless to say the terrano is still on his drive not moving.

Just had the same problem with mine and it was the starter motor. It was very lazy in the mornings, if it would start at all that is, lucky I live on a hill, once it did start it would re start all day but would be very lazy and needed the glow plugs, changed the starter and she now starts first flick of the key every time.

Frank Pickles, me and my old man plus mods- suspension, tyres, snorkel etc. £208 per year.

Just looking for some help, I've recently had a set of BF Goodrich mud terrain km2- 235-85-16s fitted to my discovery 1. The tyre fitter told me to stick to my original manufacturers recommendations as regards to tyre pressures but it just doesn't seem right, to me a bigger tyre Will need more air?. Can anyone offer some advice?.

Hi Guys just looking for a little advice regarding tyres for my Discovery, I have been looking around at many makes from Toyo open country mt, Kumho kl71, maxxis buckshot mudders and also looked at remoulds, Insa Turbo and the like (not sure I trust remoulds) but keep coming back to the BF Goodrich MTs are they realy the best you can get or is there just a big hype surrounding them? I am told they will last 50k+ miles and if I chose to sell them in a years time they would still fetch good money secondhand (this seems to be true checking on sites like ebay). I am looking for tyres for green laning and maybe the odd pay and play, they will be removed and road tyres fitted for 90% of onroad driving, obviously they have to provide grip in the mud but I don't want to go around chewing the lanes up as I have been told the likes of grizzly claws and special track do. Any advice appreciated thanks.