AncientGeek

I don't know the D2 but what ails a lot of Blighty cars when they come out here is the bearings on serpentine belt pulleys - tensioner/idler pulley bearings.

In my limited experience of MS and vast experience of being an idiot I found a mistake in the MS construction can drag voltages up or down in apparently unrelated parts of the board. Starts off OK and then gradually dropped in my case but I'm sure it could rise as well. I'm surprised I never lost any smoke. I would open the case and examine it. Check the builder washed off the flux for example.

See if you can borrow a stimulator. Sounds like a dry joint or a mistake in the MS construction.

BTW.. I did check both the schematics and with and multimeter. Your pwm idle mods are electrically they same as that in the msextra manual. I prefer yours as its neater and you don't have to amputate the TIP122. Thanks!

My own (recent) experience is that following the megamanual build takes too long and gets confusing at the choices stage. Rather use the msextra build instructions, they are more up to date as well. But also take note if Fridge's build, it differs in layout to the msextra build slightly on the pwm side. Whether it is electrically the same or not I haven't figured out yet. If I ever do this again, I could do it in 1/100th of the time.

Make sure this isn't what you require. I'm pretty sure mine were also D1380GA and that's what think I would have needed had I the patience to wait for them.. I guess it depends on the fuel rail. There were no pintles to replace on mine.

I now recall.. the d1830ga injectors on my 3.9 were not Bosch but Sagem. They were not the standard 14.5mm but 15mm. I have some unused ones for Semiens-Deka injectors and compared them and the 3.9 ones were bigger. I see Mr Injector UK lists both sizes but the USA Mr Injector ebay shop only has the smaller size. Attempting to buy these locally resulted in some humiliating experiences.

I also used a cheap ultrasonic cleaner with a water/detergent/degreaser mix. Piles of muck came out. I also put each one on the bench and rigged a switchable 12v connected to it. I filled it with carb cleaner, put compressed air against the inlet and operated the switch. Then I visually checked the spray pattern. I never replaced the O rings because I could not find any. But its been fine.

I've driven a there many times, and what I needed was a few flashes with a multi-gigawatt laser to see through the otherwise impenetrable black smoke from those blue buses doing 10 km/h and impossible to pass because you could not see the road ahead. You just had to wait for them to break down which usually was not very long.

Common scam in my part of the world.. ours usually involve some fleabay variation. Often they are careless and you can see foreign number plates or wrong hand drive in the picture.

Already talking to Nige... About the thread.. I think the original lambdas were a spark plug thread instead of the 18 mm that is common today. I'm still baffled why someone would have gone all this trouble and then make such a basic mistake. He got got the original round connectors which he must have imported, welded on bungs, and a piggyback ecu that HAS to be dyno-tuned.

I took out a lambda. It has these numbers on it: JAPAN 5350 03c14 Could not find anything on on google for that. Wiring is blue, black and black. Seems these are more common colours for a zirc sensor. I put a lpg torch on it (gently) and I measured up to 1 volt across the sensor wire and chassis ground! So looks like Zirc. WTF was he thinking?

The tune resistor is white. I even measured 3900 Ohms across it. They were never sold like that in this country. I measured the voltage from the ecu on the sensor wire (with the lambda disconnected)and there was none. But perhaps the engine needs to be running. I never tried it the other way by measuring a voltage across a disconnected lambda. There's a piggyback ECU in here but it does not seem to use the lambda circuits. Crikey indeed. Probably rip it all out and do some business with a well known forum member here. But in the meantime I'm curious.

OK, what I read on the net was rubbish.. they do generate their own voltage and the ECU measures it. Averaged at about 0.6 volts at hot idle which seems fine. Generated a vacuum leak and it drops right down. Now to try and make sense of what he's done to the MAF and ECU loom...

I'm trying to figure out what electrickery a PO has done. He has retrofitted lambdas to a non-cat system and changed the tune resistor to the UK cat type (3900 I think, I forget the colour). The lambdas look like the NTK ones and the wiring has been bodged to suit. As I understand it these are the Titania type which do not generate a voltage. So to test them, I should be measuring the resistance on them, right? While hot I know. And on the supply side the ECU should be supplying what? 1 volt I expect. So with the lambda disconnected I should measure 1 volt. and 12 volts across the heater wires. Does the ECU only supply this while the engine is running or do I just turn the ignition on? I see the shielded blue wires from the lambdas have the shield connected to ground on the ECU side only. I'm not sure if this is a mod or if they were done like that at the factory. How much does that mega-thingy cost again?

New roll pin seems to have done trick for now... thanks. I suspect the play will eventually come back, but gives me a bit more time to pontificate about Megasquirt.

The cam driven gear on my dizzy exhibits noticeable play on the shaft. I knocked out the roll pin and there is nothing that looks like damage, it looks like it was made like that. The id of the roll pin hole in the gear is however smaller than the id in the shaft by about 0.1 mm, hence the play. What do do? Put it back don't worry about it? Whack in a marginally bigger roll pin? Bore out the gear whole to be the same as the shaft? Abandon it and megasquirt? Suggestions welcome.

You have lambdas, so leave the resistor as is. OTOH with the 470 ohm the lambdas will be ignored so that can be a useful debugging tool. 1.8 is correct for a lambda motor, should be 1.4 with the 470 ohm if memory serves. If somebody has set it to 3.x I would look for a piggyback chip spliced into the ECU wiring. Some of those plugs look much blacker than others so I would suggest cleaning the injectors and checking them for leaks. Nice work so far.

Gary, give us your honest opinion on the Allmakes valve train parts, specifically camshaft and rockers. I did find a place selling Allmakes on-line.

I second Aragorn's idea of fuel pressure. Your fuel pressure is relative to the vacuum in the plenum. that might mean it is running lean as he says or it might mean fuel pressure is marginal at idle. Test the fuel pressure.

Look like you are right. I found this http://www.v8engines.com/Rockers_cust.html That makes the oil come out where the max load is. Mine had one facing up and one facing down. Surprisingly the one facing up looked in much better nick and the one facing down looked oil starved and with a scored shaft. Why does RAVE say if you get it wrong the oil flow is "restricted"? AFAIK on the upper side there will be more clearance and more oil will come out (possibly doing nasty things to your oil pressure).

Which way do the oil holes on the V8 rocker shaft face? Mine doesn't have the positioning notches RAVE talks about. Logic tells me down towards the valley but Haynes hints otherwise. Planning to replace them anyway (and the rockers of course) but I'm curious...

Acquired a '97 D1 V8i for a song. 210k km. I took off the rocker covers to have a look and saw one of the shafts has the oil holes pointing up, the other down. Surely that can't be right. RAVE says there is a notch to help you position the shafts correctly but mine doesn't have them. The Haynes manual says the oil holes should point up, but I reckon this is wrong. If the oil holes point down towards the valley then the oil should come out at the highest load bearing surface of the rocker. What makes me nervous about my logic is that the one with the oil holes pointing down was much more badly worn (but OTOH the oil passages on that side were quite sludged). Also RAVE says if you do it wrong, the "oil flow will be restricted". But AFAIK if you do it upside down, too much oil will come out...? There's also an oil hole in the rocker that goes from the top of the rocker bore to the pushrod cup. Whats that supposed to do and where does it get the oil from to do it?