AncientGeek

1) Junior power timer, but is same as bosch connector. 2) Yes they are different. Last time I looked the normal one used with MS was available at about £15, you can get a quality one from Nige for a bit more. 3) Absolutely NOT, take from the plenum. 4) No reason, Rover values are freely available. 5) That'll work, but it must be in the air flow. Also depends where you live. In a hot climate like mine somewhere on the front bumper works better. 6) usually coil -ve is the default. 7) Can't help with that one but could be translated from an MS1. Required fuel and VE table are probably all you need to get started.

I agree with your observation, I was running the gm data for a while before I knew any better, and I could see the temp was wrong at low temp. I corrected with the proper data but I got confusing results until I realised MT needed access to the new .inc files. I prefer to use MSToolsII because it documents the inc file better with F and C. I then compile the file manually (much easier than it sounds) That also gives me the opportunity to tweak the airdenfactor.inc as I find ms1 leans out the mixture too much at high ambient temps. Not a problem for most on the forum but useful for those of us who live in seasonally hot parts of the world.

I connected 12v power to the stim the wrong way round... the there was a sharp crack and flash from the ms board followed by the sound of a facepalm. It still worked afterwards.. it continues to work.

You might battle to loosen the nut holding the dipstick tube to the sump. On mine I had to use a blowtorch and a long extension. Have the car up on ramps at the very least so you can get some leverage. Also you might have a chassis member in the way of the sump. You will have to move this out the way (but don't take it out completely unless you have the right tools, because it is under compression). If you have a non-standard exhaust you might have to remove that too. Sounds like a good tip with the vaseline. That gasket is a pain, it does not want to co-operate.

I used the alternate 2 squirt/4 squirt method and I got a time very close to yours. You can only adjust the dead time in units of 0.1 on MS1 unless you use the hires code (I assume).

Black -> Blue (correct) grey -> ms earth (correct) BUT white -> white/purple - (heater +12v) other white -> earth (but not ms earth, earth somewhere else) (it does not matter which way round you wire the 2 white wires)

It's a common misconception that MS is or was open source. Although the code is downloadable for peer review it is very strictly licensed. The cheapest way of doing MS is to buy the genuine board & processor from an official distributor and buy the other components locally. The AVR based system is VEMS. It split from MS so long ago and is now so different that nobody argues about the licensing. I know of a Russian system called SECU-3 which is fully open source and very actively developed. Afaik it is spark only.

Due to the variable quality of the fuel here (and my inclination to do dangerous things with spark advance), I'm interested in fitting a knock sensor and connecting it to MS. Perhaps a wide spectrum bosch sensor with a KnocksenseMS box. Anyone done this? Where to mount the sensor on the block? I assume gems and thor motors had knock sensors.. what do they look like and where are they mounted?

Those targets don't affect my idle, its at about 13.7 at 35Kpa and 750 rpm. Somewhat tired 250K km 3.9 motor. Idle advance is 15. I get better results at 22 but it makes it a little unstable. I might be able to go bit leaner if I can get some better statistics on altitude and IAT effects. To get anywhere near 14.7 I think you would need fully sequential.

I've had no problems going quite a bit leaner but I have lot of advance at cruise. Take with however many grains of salt as you wish. My cruise at 100-120 km/h is typically 55-65 on the flat. Disclaimer: use of this afr target map may damage your engine, kill your kittens and/or cause global thermonuclear war.

Fantastic! You can can go as high as 18:1 on very light cruise with suitable spark map changes. But don't try that yet! I find MLV overcompensates on very long logs, even on "very hard". Also it tries to change cells outside the closed loop area, like idle. If its already close, I prefer Megatune autotune for longer runs (but still logging so you can see what's happening). As BBC says watch that IAT, it can screw up your tuning. Also with the WB, check you are actually getting ego correction at high Kpa. I think the default is to go closed loop at about 85Kpa which is sensible with NB but not needed for WB with suitable target table. After looking your wiring peekshas (as we call them here) I looked at my wiring again and got thoroughly depressed.

You don't need a switch point for WB, just set up the target table and tell it to use the target table "always" Also, unlike NB, you can do closed loop right up to 100Kpa 19 at cruise seems unlikely and AFAIK the LC1 won't measure anything above 20, so I would check the voltage coming out of the WB. Also Megatune needs to be configurated for the type of wideband. Perhaps give us some screen shots.

I pointed out that error in the wiring list to Nige nearly 2 years ago. I've come the conclusion its some kind of test to see if you are paying attention.

You can use the same wires. The NB heater circuit now powers the controller, and the sensor output is from the controller. Put the controller away from heat and water. If you disconnect the WB controller you should also remove the the WB sensor before running the motor. Don't leave it there unpowered.

Re loom preparation, what I did was put a 4 way ampseal connector in the lambda circuit, so I can easily swap between lambdas. Be very careful not to mix up the heater earth with the sensor earth. IMVHO NB lambdas are only useful for cats. WB all the way. OTOH looks like Nige's kits just get better and better. for "AFM" with the air temp sensor fixing.

A suggestion... bring all 8 wires back to the ecu before splicing them. That way you won't have to redo the loom if you ever upgrade to a sequential ecu. I wish I'd done that.

I use 14point7's SLC eval kit. No problems. He's got a new one called Spartan or something thats compact and looks very good value. A big help when tuning for economy cruising.

Interesting.. my unbuilt kit also came with B&G resulting in me ****ing myself when I got no comms. At the time this was furiously denied. If you are running B&G you will have to bridge the boot jumper to load MSnS. The tools to burn the firmware come with Megatune if you can still find it. I use 029y4a with a self modified temp lookup table although if anyone has the the source for the RV8 coolant table hat Nige used I would be grateful.

Eish! The vacuum takeoff for the dizzy? No not there!. Block that off. It has no vacuum at idle. Did you get a kit from Nige? He will have supplied you with a tee to join it into the fuel pressure regulator pipe vacuum takeoff. In fact anywhere on the main plenum body is OK.

The cells changed are ones that are almost impossible to hit, like 500rpm 100 Kpa. Looks like something seriously wrong like map not connected, can't really tell without a log or at least a gauges screenshot. You need to check the basics before auto-tune will do anything useful.

No-one has mentioned it, so have you tried measuring the voltages coming out of the MAF? The low rpm mixture on the MAF is adjustable, pretty much like the idle mixture screw on a carb. Theoretically you need a CO meter but you can do it by ear using the lean drop method. There is plenty of info on the web about how to do this and which wires to measure. 45 Kpa is a bit high but within limits. 13 BTDC is OK with a megajolt, imho. You can even go higher.

I recently wondered how it would run without it (and why the V8 likes to run so rich at idle). Theoretically you would then have higher pressure and a better spray pattern at idle. You would then reduce the injector pulse width. But maybe you would have to reduce it too much and run into resolution problems...?

You might want a TPS if you want to control idle ignition timing separately from the spark table. Not many people seem to bother with it however.

If you go further south to Cape Town you will find LR service Centre who are afaik the main Allmakes importers. They deliver. There is also another British4x4 there. If you need work done everyone speaks very highly of Landyworx in Randburg, Johannesburg. Prices are higher than UK but not excessively. The exchange rate should favour you. There is a very active landy forum at www.4x4community.co.za

Tin the wires and also tin the bucket quite heavily. Now apply heat to the side of the bucket while pressing the wire in. As the solder melts in will form a nice join. The wires will not fit into the bucket, forget that. Put heat shrink on every 2nd wire, alternating with the ones on the other row. Makes sure the housing clamps the loom firmly to take the stress off the individual joins. Put heat shrink or some other protection where the db37 housing clamps the loom. Stupid connector for an ECU, IMHO.