AncientGeek

People seem to have missed what Nige said.. more likely its restricting the air flow, which would explain why you get 12.5 with such low VE values.

Looks exceptionally lean 70Kpa - WOT. Are the injectors standard? At that AFR and 34 degrees at sea level I would be very surprised if its not pinking. What make WB? Measure the voltage directly off the WB and make sure MS is reading the same.

On some models the mushroom was replaced by a pipe going to the clean side of the filter. The one on the flame trap splits into 2 on models that I'm aware of. One goes to the plenum via a restrictor, the other goes upstream of the thottle plate. Its unclear which side you are talking about. When using MT/MS you can see the effect of the plenum connection on idle vacuum by pinching off the plenum connector. Its basically acting as an oily air leak. The effect reduces as the engine is under load. I've often wondered if fitting a PCV valve would not be an improvement.

Nige is right about the 70KPa thing, I think its consequence of your gearing. Perhaps a series of gradual changes to see if you can get your KPa at cruise down a bit. The 45 degreees I was talkling about was at 50KPa. My cruise KPa has come down a lot after staring at maps and feeling the Force flow through me. Also he is right about the sudden change in spark advance. What happens if you are in the transition zone slight changes in MAP and rpm cause wild changes in advance. I think it would be difficult to get pinking at an easy cruise but I don't want to be accused of causing melted pistons. I'm a bit more gung ho about advance at cruise whereas I'm more cautious at WOT. I think that Nige's maps are too advanced at WOT above 3000 rpm and there is one map posted in the main thread (not his) that is positively dangerous. But I run at about 13.5:1 at WOT whereas I would guess Nige is running much richer. A richer mixture is less likely to pink. Talking of AFR's, I think you should go a bit richer at WOT. You can also go a lot leaner in the decel zone, above 1500rpm and below 35 KPa. Let the Force guide you.

You live on a flat little island but it would onlly take 400 metres of altitude to get to 95. Where I am today it is 85Kpa atmospheric and bl**dy hot.Your map is looking very cool by contrast.

I think you are on the right track. I would go a little more advanced at idle and bit more retarded at WOT. I would drop 1 degree at 70Kpa in your cruise zone. Unfornunately I can't post the 4.6 dyno tuned map because its not mine to post but I can make some observations. Other than at cruise his max advance is about 30. At cruise its between 39 and 45 and I suspect he is running very lean here. His max advance at WOT is a mere 12 and at 85 KPa maxes out at 18. His advance is all in by 2500 rpm and hardly goes up after that. In fact he has an interesting little valley above 2500 and above 70Kpa where it retards a bit and then goes up again by 4500 rpm. If you have a modified plenum this would probably change. He has no valley at 1500 rpm like that which so many people advocate.

The example I quoted was done at 2000 metres so yoiu should probably chop 5 degreees off that. There isn't much point of running a lot of advance at cruise if you don't also lean the mixture. Lean mixture burns slower, thats why you need the extra advance. More advance at stoich might even drop the power as others have said. Heat is problem at lean burn and high advance but its more of a danger at wider throttle. Although you should probably be extra cautious because of your gearing. A lot of the maps given in this forum and on the web are for performance, not economy. I find most of them too advanced at 80-100Pka for me, but there are lots of regional differences like air temperature. Also if you are running MS1 with NB sensor in standard trim MS in normal config it will always try to pull the mixture back to 14.7 (except at open loop). WB sensor and target AFR's is better for economy tuning but you can battle along with MSLV, etc to tune the AFR and then afterwards turn the O2 correction off or reduce it. And then watch out for heat soak which can be a problem even at cruise, this will cause MS to lean out the mixture. Fun fun fun.

14.4 is richer not leaner. I've seen a dyno-tuned 4.6 spark map running 45 degrees at cruise which was in the 2500 rpm 50 Kpa range, dropping to 40 degrees at 60Kpa. Mixture was somewhere in the 15.5 to 16:1 range. This was however done at high altitude. Also this was for normal gearing. At WOT it was about about 24 degrees at above 2500 rpm at 13.5:1, no higher.

Happens here too, though less often lately. I had a friend who was a snake handler. His wife, who was pretty and petite with long blonde hair, made extra money by removing snakes from mall cruisers. Many a 12 year old boy was instantly in love and smitten for life after she hauled out a highly dangerous Cape Cobra from under the bonnet with a hooked stick without even scratching her nail polish. No offense to the Aussie in the picture, but she was much more impressive.

Wow, do you guys have a crime problem in the 'K? Its safer here, they only steal Toyotas.

They were never supplied with cats or O2 sensors here either, but ours did have the connectors. Its a shielded cable with a round connector. I recall having to look quite hard for the resistor, its hidden in the loom near the ECU.

When I was happy with my MS I sprayed it with conformal coating... immediately I was down to 4 cylinders and lost a host of signals. Yup, I had failed to mask off the DB37, thus insulating some of the pins.

Serpentine notes. Adding some notes after a successful serpentine install, '97 D1, Edis8. I built my own ECU from a kit, be aware that you need quite a bit of rtfm and a few extra parts that are not in the kit are needed. I assembled a stimulator first and this gave some good soldering practice and also came in useful later. My pulley had a UFO shaped dirt trap with welded nuts. I had to bin that and add some nuts in order to fit the triggerwheel and spacer without fouling anything. If I were to do the wiring again, I would leave the existing loom in place and add a small extra loom for the extra sensors and coils. I still have nightmares about fighting with the spider wiring. I used the two existing Bosch 5 pin relays. The setup required differs from the kit-supplied and commonly available wiring diagrams which are for older models. Main (Load) relay: Pin Was Now 30 Brown-green (fuse box) Same 85 CPU/12 (Blue-red) Earth 86 Brown-Orange(Fuse box) White-Green (Ign Switched) 87 Fuel Inj+(Brown-Orange) Same 87a Brown-Orange(ECU-2) Blue-Yellow (MS Power) + EDIS8 Power+Idle Valve Fuel pump relay Pin Was Now 30 White-Purple (fuse box) Same 85 Blue-Purple (ECU) Blue-Purple (MS) 86 Ign Switched (white-green) Same 87 Black (Fuel Pump/Spider) White-Purple (Fuel Pump) White-Purple (Purge) Not needed 87a White-Orange (O2) White-Purple (O2 heater +Coil Pack power) TPS The wiring colours on the serpentine are different to earlier models. Wire as follows: ECU ---- TPS Yellow ---- Brown Green ---- Green Red ---- Blue HFH's coilpack mounts are a work of art. I had to use a b*st*rd file to take a few mm off the alternator casing otherwise it was hard up against the rear coil. I put some rubber around the top bracket as it looked like it would chafe the upper radiator hose. I also had to trim the upper radiator clip on cover with a dremel to clear the coil pack. I fiited my ECU and EDIS8 in the swing down fusebox door. Fixing the Aircon The aircon wiring depends on the Lucas ECU and stops working when you disconnect and remove the old ECU. There is an easy solution. Remove the yellow-black wire from the AC logic relay, and put it on pin 86 of the AC clutch relay. You won't need the AC logic relay or the fan timer unit any more. It might be an idea to configure one of the extra outputs from MS to an “engine is running” signal. Then wire that through the AC logic relay so that the AC clutch can only be engaged when the engine is running. MAF Replacement. I found some 76mm OD aluminium pipe (80mm would have been better) and cut it to size. I found a silicon 76 mm to 62 mm converter at a Chinese shop, cut it halfway along the downsizing , and siliconed it to the air filter outlet. The IAT is fitted to the air filter housing. Heatsoak is still a problem.

I had mine plumbed into the plenum where the charcoal canister used to connect, but I seem to get better results by teeing it into the pipe from near the IAC to the fuel pressure regulator line as HFH says (somewhat obliquely ). More damping maybe. I bet he provides a tee for this purpose. The dizzy vacuum takeoff is a weird thing, it is slightly upstream of the butterfly and gives very little vacuum at idle. I never understood what LR were trying to achieve with it. I removed the nipple and whacked an old dremel tool shaft into the hole.

Seems odd... why go to all that trouble when the cars are already available here?

Recently worked with this. If yours has a spider, then output from the relay (which is by your right little toe) is black. It goes to the spider before going to the fuel pump and becoming purple/white in the process.. The input is white/purple which comes from the engine fuse box. The relay is activated by pin 86 which gets grounded by the ECU. Purple/blue, I think.

??? 0.6mm sounds like dizzy-with-points-and-condensor type plug gap to me. 25 thou? Is this a fuel-only megasquirt? The reference in megamanual to "0.75-1.5 mm" refers to the VR-sensor to triggerwheel gap, not the spark plug gap. The norm with coilpacks seems to be 1 to 1.1 mm.

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=93965

I think I know why you want to know.. On my 3.9 Serp I had to trim that cowling with a dremel sort of like the attached to fit the coilpack. I'm away from home right now but can send you a photo over the weekend if wanted

She runs too! Just fired up my 3.9 serpentine D1 on MS1. Kit was supplied by HFH. Started first time. Found a few differences between the intermediate serpentine and the conventional wisdom espoused in these forums which I will document in due course. I battled somewhat with the loom. I have carpal tunnel so its not easy for me. I had this ridiculous interlude when I tried to remove the spider wiring - nearly had me crying with frustration! Not sure if my knuckles will every heal.

On my D1 I found a cheap chinese spanner jammed behind the alternator, and in the wiring under the centre console were all the screws that were missing from the dashboard.

Ah but has it got dog hair in it? Fixed the rust on the bottom of the doors on my small hatchback. On a beautiful windless warm winter's day I put on the final coat of 2K clear. Just admiring my handiwork when out of nowhere my Labrador knocks me over backwards, spray gun goes flying. I untangle myself to see a line line of sticky dog hair embedded all down the side of the car.

The later Disco 1's had a pipe going from the airfilter to the rocker breather inlet.

Very nice and thanks, but.. that must assume an MS2...? (4 wire idle valve) SAW to Pin 30? All other docos have it on 36... do you have a special mod? To really nitpick (and off topic too) your relays are wired backwards. Doesn't matter until you start using 5 pin relays.

IMHO the Edis8 wiring in that diagram does not compute. Or is everything I know wrong?