JonT

If locks are same as Freelander 1, then there are seperate locking and unlocking solenoids - in that case, the the lock will need to be replaced. Common problem on FL1's

Have you tried using the blipper to open the rear door ? First press on the unlock button unlocks the driver's door, then a second press should unlock all other doors, including the rear .

How hot was the engine at the time of test ?? It can make a huge difference with the 'K' series. What might help would be to arrange for emissions to be tested as soon as you arrive at the test station (if you can), and take the car for a good run first (at least 15-20 miles) so that the cat is fully up to temp and operating correctly. We run an MG-F for my wife, and this is a trick I usually use at MOT time - running the engine with the car static just does not get things hot enough to be working properly. The 'F' failed this year on emissions, with CO at 1.128 (max allowed is 0.300), and Lambda at 1.073 (max allowed is 1.030) - your 'max allowed' figures should be the same, as it is the same engine. HC was OK I fitted a new cat, and the results then were CO at 0.077, Lambda at 0.999 - HC still OK. So, for just a little short of £40 quid, all OK. Just because a cat was fitted to your car a couple of years back, it doesn't mean that it is still OK.

What were the actual readings as shown on the emissions report ?? Does it show fails against CO, HC or Lambda ?? It should show Min Limit/Max Limit/Actual Value

I'm afraid that it will - I suppose that you could always get a "pre-owned" latch, but there is no guarantee that it will last any length of time. At least, that was my reasoning. The new unit cost me £92, as against second-hand for about £40 (possibly), but at least I have a unit which I know is good. The unit I removed was second-hand (it still carried the yellow paint marks put on by the dismantler), and given that the unit it replaced had been left in the back door of the motor by the previous owner, I reckon that it had been fitted no more than 12 months previously !! I also think that it was an incorrect fitment - in both the original and the new unit I purchased there were 7 pins for the multi-plug connector - in the unit |I removed, there were 8 !

"On the other hand, you can always unlock the driver's door with the key, rather than climbing over the passenger seat!" Ahh - thereby hangs another tale !! Key will go in, but not turn - when I have the exterior handle and door latch off to replace the latch (this weekend), I'll have a look at the barrel lock itself to see if I can fix it

Good evening, all - I wonder if anyone can give me a point in the right direction to solve a problem which has arisen today on my '51 plate TD4 3-door ?? Problem is that the drivers side door lock will not unlock on the blipper - it will LOCK on the blipper, but not unlock. The expected 'clunk' can be heard when pressing the blipper button, but the door button stays down, lock stays locked. It will also not lock/unlock on the dashboard switch which locks/unlocks all doors, including rear door. To get into the car, I have to 'blip' twice, get in on the passenger side, and open the driver's door manually using the interior door handle. I have checked the linkages between lock and door handles (inside and outside), and all appears to be OK Any and all hints/tips gratefully accepted

"You could try cleaning & lubing the clutch release arm where it goes into the box, mine was half-seized" This is a common problem with this 'box on the MG-F - Mike Satur does a replacement release arm which has been drilled and fitted with a grease nipple so that lubrication is possible

"Im sorry to say but the hippies that buy the 2WD one will look like idots come winter time! No offense to anyone who has bought one! " Sorry, but I don't necessariliy agree with that rather sweeping statement !! I bought a 2001 TD4 FL1 in July last year, and because of doubts about the condition of the VCU (later confirmed as on its last legs), the VCU and props were removed - I finally got round to re-fitting props and a re-con VCU on 14th. February this year - so that means that I ran the car through this last winter in 2-wheel drive. I live up in the Staffordshire Moorlands - we had a fair old amount of snow up here, but I never had any trouble at all getting out and about in the FL.

Yep, that's the one !! Getting replacement tomorrow

I assume that, as with other engine/gearbox mountings, the rubber bushes in the tie-rod should be firmly bonded into their housings ?? (I realise that this may seem a daft question, but you never know !!) The reason I ask is that I have been trying to trace a clonk/rattle from the front of the vehicle, low down - it was evident before the recent MOT test, on which my tester found a track-rod end which needed replacement, but nothing else - I had rather hoped that he might find the problem for me. Today (once it stopped raining) I have removed the underbelly cover, which had a number of splits in it - I have repaired these, but before re-fitting it, took the car for a quick run round the block. The clonk/rattle is still evident, but not as bad as before - I had previously tested the tie-rod with a pry-bar, and though there was a little movement, it was certainly not "loose" enough to cause concern. However, i have just taken it off the car, and find that I could quite easily push the rubber bush out of it by hand - hence my question above. To me, it seems that the bush is still firm enough to stop any excessive forward/backward rocking of the engine, but is so loose that it will allow unwanted sideways movement, and that is where the clonk/rattle is coming from

"Should have shot it when had the chance" Or maybe the vendor !!

If it ain't broke, no need to fix it !! check for wear in the bottom arm ball joint, if no wear, don't replace.

I should have looked before leaping into action with the above post !! - I have now found a source of a replacement exactly as above !!

I know that the arm apparently has to be replaced if the ball joint is showing wear, but - on the MGF, it is possible to obtain just a replacement ball joint, which is fitted by drilling out the rivets fixing it to the bottom arm, and fitting the replacement using three bolts/nuts which are supplied with the ball joint. Does anyone know if there is the same sort of replacement available for the Freelander bottom arm ??

Gary, you really need to strip the whole assembly, clean up, lube, and re-assemble - including the "automatic" adjusters - ANYTHING which can or should move needs to be able to do so freely. I must admit, though, that even after doing so, my rear brakes also tend to "stick" a little if left on overnight - so, as my drive slopes towards the house, I roll the car up to a couple of bricks, put it in reverse, and just apply the handbrake very lightly.

Try looking on the MGRover.org forum, under MGF/TF - it's the same engine, and if you do a search I would be surprised if you did not find something relative to your problem - it is a very busy forum, and the regulars are also very helpful !!

Gaz - go onto the MGRover.org site, then access the MGF/TF section - you should be able to get lots of advice/help there just by doing a search. Your engine is a "K" series, just like the F and TF

I first used Greenstuff on an MG-F, all round, and that was certainly driven enthusiastically (!!) with no problems at all

One tip which may be of interest to those with alloy wheels fitted - if you use "Green Stuff" front pads, you will find that there is far less dust generated, and therefore the wheels stay cleaner for longer - and there is no loss of braking effect.

Recon rear diff at Bell Engineering for £325, plus £200 surchage if no excgange unit supplied http://www.bellengineering.co.uk

Dunno about those people, but have recently obtained a recon VCU from Bell Engineering, complete with new support bearings (fitted), at the cost of £230

Sorry, chaps - I gave an incorrect price in my previous post re: VCU and bearings from Webb Engineering - correct price is £230, NOT £210 !!

"cost to replace VCU and support bearings £725" I note that you say you have removed the props and VCU yourself - contact Bell Engineering for a rebuilt VCU and bearings, mine have just cost me £210. Ken also does rebuilt IRDs at £615 (both plus surcharge until faulty items returned to Bell. www.bellengineering.co.uk

I am looking for a little advice, please - I purchased a Freelander in June, nice motor in good condition. Very pleased with it so far. I know that the VCU is on its way out, and that is awaiting a replacement. However, what I am looking for is some opinions as to whether or not the IRD also needs to be changed, as there is a small amount of 'rotational free-play', for want of a better description. I can detect about a quarter of an inch free-play at the pinion flange when in neutral - when in gear, there is no free-play at all (the prop-shafts and VCU have been removed from the car). When I first got the FL, it was driven for some time with props and VCU fitted, gear changing was nice and smooth (as it still is), and there were no clunks, bangs, or other nasty noises. Is this small amount of free-play normal/acceptable ?? thanks for all and any responses Jonty