CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Words 17,18 and 52 (0x03C0,0x0780 and 0xACFF on MPH flash) seem to control what face it believes it has, if I change them on the KPH to match the MPH speedo the needle now moves as if it were indicating KPH on the outside scale of the MPH speedo. Changing any word individually seems to stop the needle moving. THe final two words in memory seem to make no difference whatever they are set to.
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4100 is 1004 in hex. Exactly what is in word 08. Word 09 is similar. Maybe one value of pluse per mile for the odo and one for the dial?
You were right with the 0x1004 value, this is used to configure the trip meter and mileage record. So as you surmised it is the number of pulses per unit. I have verified this with two speedos in parallel, set at 0x2008 it registers only half the mileage and set at 0x802 it registers twice the mileage.
Unfortunately this works in conjunction with word 13, unless we get the value right for this word then the needle stops moving.
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If you change the 0x09F4 and 0xB3FF on the KPH speedo to 0x1004 and 0x5CFF instead of showing 100KPH it now indicates just over 60KPH .... could it actually be indicating MPH but using the KPH scale?
Did a second test, using the MPH speedo set the frequency generator to make the MPH speedo show 120MPH, connected it to the modded KPH speedo and it shows 120KPH....
EDIT: Just tested trip meter and that too has changed to working in Miles, well it is perfectly in sync with the MPH one anyway.
EDIT Again to add video
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Just a thought, on the MPH gauge the 100km/h mark is past vertical, but on the KPH gauge the 100km/h is at vertical. Also, the MPH gauge goes to 120MPH, but the KPH gauge goes to 200km/h (125MPH). Possibly then, the gauges are programmed to move the needle different amounts based on the number of pulses?
You sir are indeed correct!
This evening I had a play with a KPH speedo and there are indeed a few degrees difference between the 100KPH postition on an MPH speedo and a KPH speedo.
So I popped it open and read the memory out of it to see if there were any differences ....
There were, so I reprogrammed the KPH speedo using the file I had from the MPH speedo we played with the other week .....
Connected it back up to the frequency generator I've been using for testing (which was still set to indicate 100KPH) and low and behold the needle now overshot 100KPH by a few degrees!
Now we just have to work out what to change, but we have proved the KPH speed and MPH speedo are the same beast just with a different face and memory contents ...
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I reckon the suggestion of cutting the wheel nuts
is the best one, it's free and won't affect the true running of the wheels like welding could. You'll probably want a lower torque on the wheel nuts after, but I'm assuming your electric tractor doesn't weigh 2 ton and go 70 + mph ... only an assumption though ;-)
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did you intend to put a reply in here ???????
I think the whole thing has left him speechless
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They definitely seem to be coming out of the woodwork now, I suppose people saw that one go for £68 the other day.
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I would be very interested to know which usb to serial adapter you have found as in the past I have tried quite a few (not on megasquirt) and they suffer in any high/long data transfer. Quite understand if you don't want to reveal which one till after your test.
PS I meet none of the entry criteria for your test so I was just after info, not trying to blag anything.
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What's a freelander bonnet worth? Might be a cheap way to get a bonnet if a wrap is just another name for a big sticker ..... because as it is it ain't going to sell ....
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No I haven't checked the thermostat will do tomorrow, as for it warming up it dosen't take long and the gauge go halfway and stays there.
Mine was taking a long time to warm up as thermostat was stuck open and that was stopping the heater doing much unless you were going up a steep hill. If yours is warming up quickly then your thermostat is probably ok, but if you have checked everything else you can think of then it won't do any harm to have a look.
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Having seen what polybush stylee bushes do to the contact face of radius arms I wouldn't put them on a LR again. Basically they let water into the interface resulting in the arm corroding badly rendering them scrap. genuine bushes fit so tightly that no corrosion takes place what so ever.
There are pictures of the arms I took off my 90 somewhere on here if you want to see evidence.
Here they are I think http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48593&view=findpost&p=441839
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He's a witch ! Burn him, burn him !
Mo
.... with his own petrol! That's all it's good for!
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Have you checked the thermostat? How long does the temperature gauge take to get to running temp? My heater was pathetic till I replaced the thermostat.
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My mate had the misfortune of buying a gearbox and transfer box off ebay that had been welded like this. He thought he was struggling to seperate the two
I shall definiately be splitting the two before buying in the future!
Not suggesting you'd sell yours just saying it seems a "done thing" although I was amazed! There wasn't any backlash between the two though
A lot of work with the die grinder to seperate them I bet! probably best taken straight to the scrap man
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My splines were like little triangles, I did another 400 miles before I did something about it and by that stage they were starting to break up, didn't look any more worn just started losing bits of metal. There was no heavy towing during those last 400 miles though. Let me find a picture to give an idea ...
If you are happy consigning the old boxes to the bin afterwards and prepared to do the work I guess give it a try and see how things go. Watch out for melting the seals between the gearbox and transfer box, and setting fire to the transfer box! Would be good to see how it turns out if you do go ahead :-)
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Pity you cant swap it for another low range gear stick
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Hack saw (grown up or junior)
Grinder - 4.5" or 9"
Find a lathe an stick it in and part it off
cold chisel and a big hammer?
Liquid nitrogen and a small hammer?
The options are endless!!
:P 
Lol
In fairness it's quite hard steel so I'd use the angle grinder however re threading the top to stick your knob back on is the hard part and probably the problem that Changread needs solved.
You could cut a bit out of the middle and then weld it back together, but I recall reading that the gear stalk is hardened so it may just crack off again.
PS I'm referring to Defender gear sticks in general not specifically the puma one.
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Finally I have the correct mileage in my car
Took the long way home and put 12.5 miles on it, everything behaved as normal and the miles clocked up as I expected. So all is good in that respect. Hopefully tomorrow morning the trip mileage will still be there, but I don't have any reason to believe it won't be. During testing it has remembered a distance.
Spot on
For those that have been following the thread they may wonder why the mileage is 157,789 and not 197,000 as we were setting earlier....
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any effort would be appreciated but i suspect only a scan would do the job, whats the best method for opening and re crimping/
I'll see what I can do when I open the next one, depends on how the needle is held on as to whether a scan is feasible as I imagine the face will need to be flat against the scanner plate.
To open the speedo up I use a mobile phone opening tool which is basically a bent tipped screwdriver and slowly work my way around a couple of times easing the crimped edge up. Don't prise it up too far, just enough so you can push it off with your thumbs.
When it comes to putting it back together ease the metal part back on then place the face of the speedo flat down on some clean mdf that has a hole drilled in it for the reset button to sit in, then place a small amount of pressure on the back of the speedo with a clamp of some description (this compresses the foam in the metal ring) and then using a lump of hard plastic and a small hammer gently tap the edge you raised earlier back into place.... work around in a circle a couple of times till you are happy. The end result is pretty tidy apart from some lost paint that won't be seen.
I'll post some pictures of what I mean when I open the next one up which should be in the next day or two.
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I have only just this lunch time finished recrimping this one back together
James is going to do some testing before we open the next one but I'll take some hi res pics if you like when I do. The face is quite thick and has some sort of prismatic property to help with illumination -
Just some questions that ran through my head ....
Would welding it make it that much stronger anyway? You would need very good penetration and are the steels weldable with normal rod or will they just crack?
What sort of welding?
Assuming electric of some description where will you put the earth clamp? You don't want current to find it's way through any bearings.
How much of your splines are left at the moment?
Sorry for inquisition :s
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Somehow completely missed this thread, love this sort of thing. Have you got anywhere with the mysterious 8000 value yet? Does changing it make any difference? If you were saying that that stops the speedo moving and subtracts amount from the miles, maybe that's how you "down clock" it?
Taking miles off is done just by changing the first 16 bytes in memory using the calculation MrKev worked out on page three of this thread. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69070&view=findpost&p=591401
The mysterious 8000 value is still mysterious, to be honest a lot of the values if changed stop the needle moving. This is probably because it is crashing the code running on the microcontroller because the values are incorrect, knowing which values are valid will be a challenge.
Currently I am using a Speedo kindly loaned to me by Retroanaconda so I am treading lightly, I'll be swapping this out for his other speedo this evening which will give us another example of memory contents, as they are similar speedos anything that differs between them must have something to do with storing the mileage or a serial number of some sort.
Also there is a KPH speedo coming our way soon and it is hoped examining this will reveal if it is possible to convert between the two types and if it is possible to recalibrate these in an arbitary fashion... or it may just reveal how easy it is to part me from my money!
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As long as what they're selling is what they've got a photo of, rather than what they've described, then yes. I'd say so
I spoke to them this morning and it has been confirmed to me as a TD5 speedometer
They also said they would be willing to post it!
That'll save a 100 mile round trip
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Mine would be the security grills that vibrate against the window surrounds at idle ... I must get round to sticking some foam between them
300tdi oil burner?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Are you sure the problem is the engine? The oil seals in the turbo could make it smoke to. It is worth doing compression tests on the engine before pulling it apart as with the sort of mileage it has it's barely run in!
Oh and as a quick win check the cyclone breather is clean.