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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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My code for the Pic now looks like this
Program Speedo
main:
ANSEL = 0 ' configure AN pins as digital I/O
ANSELH = 0
TRISB0_bit = 1 ' set PORTB to be input
TRISC = 0 ' set PORTC to be output
PORTC = 0xAA
portC = 0
while true
PortC.0 = 1
delay_us(195)
portC.0 = 0
delay_us(195)
wend
end.
I have changed the delay to 195 microseconds. The speedo now counts at the speed of **** flying from a shovel. 175 micro seconds and the speedo does not count... like you said, its too fast for it.
Remember if these pulses seem much smaller then what is expected, my pic is running with its internal oscillator so timing will not be as accurate as using a proper crystal.
Anyway its now roughly moving at 1110mph.
Nice
This is a good way of increasing the mileage without opening the case, at that speed even quite substantial increases should only take a few days
A nice mod if you can do it to the code would be to only run for a certain number of pulses, but I'm not sure if the PIC can deal with counters of the required size easily. It would save having to remember to stop it and prevent you overshooting your target
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which ones did you use cwazy, or with this info be included in final write up?
thanks
I used one of these http://www.asix.net/tools/prg_presto.htm
However I should be getting hold of a Bus Pirate next week which I'm told are cheaper, so we'll try using that and put the cheapest method in the final write up.
TBH any programmer that can program a chip using the microwire protocol (forerunner to SPI) and supports the 93S46 chip will work.
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Just to add to your simulation have you thought of V type situation combined with a change in direction? I guess you have
You could also have some twist going on to ...
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That is a brilliant result! I'd not have thought of a working bulb causing the problem, well spotted
I believe (from memory) the purple wire is a permanent fused 12v supply and often used for accessory wiring... except on mine because it's broken somewhere in the chassis
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Which engine do you have? I know the 300tdi has a special coolant fill procedure to prevent airlocks which will lead to overheating.
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I think pressure release is the wrong phrase, drain hole would be better. But whatever you call it, as you've noticed it lets the water out when it gets to where it shouldn't be
As I understood it the idea is to preserve the bearing when the seal wears and starts to weep giving you a little time to notice and replace it rather than get stuck in the middle of nowhere. Seems your seal didn't understand the weeping stage existed and went straight for total failure.
Good luck with the repairs
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I know, but then again i need an excuse to take it off! (is that tempting it too much or just playing fate at its own game?!)
I think it's a double bluff... but I'm not sure
Remind me never to play poker with you
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So I guess we all just said after your stirling effort of replacing everything apart from the water pump... you now have to replace the water pump 12 months is a carp length of time for it to last.... maybe the part is under warranty still? I'm sure I read the blue box brigade had increased their warranty to 2 years....
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I understood the hole was to stop any slight seepage getting as far as the actual bearing and causing it to rust and bugger up. Once the seal goes though water tends to p1$$ out.
Just to follow a trend, what colour box did that one come in?
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What would be of more use to me would be a 'vents left open' warning buzzer, going on the past few weeks experience with the rain
I could do with one of them as well!
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How about http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200619772004
Apparently it's a melody....
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There are plenty of self contained buzzers like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/290572639282 for not a lot of cash but these would sound continuously driving you to self harm very quickly.
However you could drive this from a 555 timer configured in the monostable mode, you'd need a few logic chips as well to 'notice' you left the lights on and a small voltage regulator I guess.... Hmmm someone must do a kit... and it would still be a buzz, not a nice soothing melodic caress suggesting you turn the lights off
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this is a great thread, and has got me digging out my PIC micro controller. I wish i had something to contribute but i am going from a TD5 speedo to an after market one so it will be interesting to see if the mileage can be set in a similar way. But well done all its been very interesting, look forward to the Tech archive post.
Out of curiosity why are you changing a TD5 out to replace with an aftermarket one?
It's quite likely they do something very similar inside the aftermarket speedo, if they do you should spot the mileage storage by dumping the memory contents then adding a few miles and dumping it again.
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The TD5 speedo also outputs a pulse to connect to the ECM on a TD5, would that be suitable as your pulse to ECM on your build?
You can see it labeled as pin 1 on this post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14892&st=20&p=160740entry160740
Is that any use?
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Have been doing some playing to see what other values may mean... progress is slow
All the FFFF words seem to have no effect so it seems it is just blank memory at these locations.
The two 0000 words if both changed to the same value change the start position of the needle 00FF is approx 7MPH and 0FFF is about 119MPH Maybe this is for different faces with different 0 positions.
All other changes so far seem to stop the needle from functioning and little else.
One strange one is the 8000 value, apart from stopping the needle working it seems to subtract an amount from the recorded mileage.
Anyway that was the fruits of my lunch break
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Here you go..as requested
Apologies for the size!!!
Thanks for that, it appears it isn't a serial number after all ... must be yet another part number! Your sticker is exactly the same as the one I have here other than the date code :S
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.....
Next step for me is to get the head ported if/when it comes off, but its running really well at the mo, so no need currently.
.... tempting fate there
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Just taken my speedo out and photgraphed it a couple of times, however only one photo has come out in focus and i didn't check before i put it back in.
I have attached two of the photos, one with the sticker on it, which is out of focus, but from memory, it has the LR p/n on it and a VDO Nr on it as well. If it is of any help i can take another photo and get it in focus.
Both photos show how the black ring was prised up and put back down.
Apologies for the size..at work at the moment
HTH
Cheers for that Chris, it's really appreciated.
I can see how they turn stuff around so quickly if they leave the crimping like that, I had expected a few marks but assumed it would be pressed down fully.
That sticker has a Rover part number, a VDO part numnber, manufacturing date, operating voltage, and in the bottom left hand corner what I would assume to be the unit serial number.
It would be nice to know the 'unit serial number' (assuming that is what it is).
Thanks again
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This thread in the tech archive will help you get some more poke http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31
The disco transfer box will increase top end speed assuming you currently have the defender one in ;-)
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There's no VIN info in a Defender 99-06 speedo AFAIK. (I refuse to call it a Td5 speedo as my 300Tdi had one from the factory and was built in 2006 )
There is a VIN held in most of the newer stuff though - including the Puma instrument I think.
Great thread, hadn't been following it but just read through
Thanks
The thread is starting to get a bit long now, so well done for reading through it!
James has volunteered to help with sorting out a howto for the reprogramming once we work out exactly what is going on (although I think we have the milage part cracked we want more!!!!), we're also going to have a stab at using the Bus Pirate for reprogramming as that will reduce the cost for anyone wanting to have a stab at this themselves.
This thread is a great reference to see what has been going through everyones minds as the group start to understand this 'VDO Electronic Speedometer' It's great the way so many people are contributing with information which would have taken ages to find out otherwise
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Well spotted! I Shall keep an eye on the auction and if the price doesn't get silly I'll place a bid on it for the project.
Unless of course anyone else has one kicking around? If anyone is willing to loan one to us I'll change whatever we know how to (or leave it as is, your choice) before I return it.
BTW when you up the clock speed if the needle doesn't move you are clocking it too fast, so just drop back a little.
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"I'm thinking a few more examples of flash contents might be helpful now..... any volunteers?"
Even this gets me - If it means you want another speedo to try, I have one waiting in my garage with unknown mileage on.
Malcolm
Got a speedo you can have a look at !
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I had a chat with James last night, before we open up any more speedos we're going to put his back together and allow him to use it for a while to be absolutely certain it is all working properly, I can see no reason for problems but just want to be safe. Then I shall take you guys up on your generous offers
I have James' speedo for a few more days yet so the playing investigations will carry on for a while then after a week of testing we'll open a few more up and see what this reveals
Does that seem a sensible way forward to all?
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Just a thought, on the MPH gauge the 100km/h mark is past vertical, but on the KPH gauge the 100km/h is at vertical. Also, the MPH gauge goes to 120MPH, but the KPH gauge goes to 200km/h (125MPH). Possibly then, the gauges are programmed to move the needle different amounts based on the number of pulses?
Good observation
I guess the ideal would be if we could find someone with a KPH speedo that would be kind enough to let us take it apart, anyone got an imported vehicle they have swapped the digital KPH speedo out for a UK one? Bit of a long shot that one I guess. But if we do work out the calibration we no longer have to rely on different coloured cogs to try and match up the speedo to the tyres which would be brilliant as in some cases there is no correct cog.
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Adding, from about 28k to 148k. I always wondered if it could be done with electronics but seeing as I know naff all about them if this thread had come about two months ago I would have had a bash!
Even with accelerated clocking it would take at least 3 days to add that much so it had to have been done using some electronic manipulation, whether that was directly reprogramming the flash chip or using a debug port. I'm leaning towards it being reprogramming the flash chip as the mobile bloke said he opened the case. Also as he said the case had been opened before it kind of hints at that being the 'normal' method.
TD5 Speedo Mileage run up circuit
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Lol, when I watched that video I thought 'that's going 10 times faster than I managed it, how's he done that?' I started timing the speed of increase, was just about to do the calculations when I noticed that of course your mileage is below 100,000 so still has the decimal point! Doh!
Looks like you have about 4 hours 6 hours left to reach your target, looking good and great idea to post the video, gives a much greater sense of speed than words do.