CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Kids love it! ... well, most do! Just keep a close eye on them as when its busy its very easy to loose them!
There is normally something going on in the arena to entertain the kids. And every now and then they do something Land Rover related too!!
We'll be arriving Friday night and will be on the Camel stand for the whole weekend, sitting under the awning to keep out of the rain. Ours is the yellow car
Dan
Cheers for that Dan, I'll keep an eye on him ... and might even bring him back home with me afterwards if he's good
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I'm thinking of heading up for the Saturday and dragging my youngest (8 year old) along for the day. I've never been before and was wondering do a lot of people take their kids or is it just a recipe for disaster?
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I didn't know it was Simon, in which case there is bound to be some cunning logic as to the wiring design
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if a winch is fitted & used by having a seperate start battery the engine can still be started even if the winch/2nd battery is flat,
on my 110 my winch has it's own battery fed via a LR split charge relay system. vehicle/start battery runs everything else & I've fitted a isolator switch as a internal jump start
That's the way I thought they were supposed to work but the original owner of Ross's Landy has only the starter wired to the main battery and everything else to the 2nd battery which in my mind seems to defeat the point somewhat as it won't start when the second battery is flat, I was just wondering if there was any reason for this other than a mistake.
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Out of curiosity what is the advantage of having just the starter on one battery? It doesn't allow the vehicle to start when the 'aux' battery is flat, which I thought was one of the main points of having twin batteries.
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He wouldnt be able to follow me as his 5.2 wont be ready 
So are you laying down the challenge to Nige that he can't have his 5.2 in and working before you have your TD5 fitted?
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Put in 1st and started engine which resulted in loads of juddering and I couldn't get it back into neutral.
The pedal does seem a bit weaker than it should be.
Thanks for the quick replies everyone.
Sounds to me like the clutch isn't properly disengaging, which from a financial point of view is good as it is no doubt cheaper than a gearbox
Try adjusting the clutch to see if you can get it disengage properly, failing that it's as has been suggested... gearbox out and examine/replace the clutch.
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Lol everyone asking the same questions
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Does the clutch work (put it in gear and try starting with clutch depressed?
If so where abouts is the pedal when it starts to disengage drive (top or bottom of it's travel)?
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Yeah. The when I had battery trouble before I traced it back to from the starter to the red top. without the engine running, the red top shows a much better voltage than the numax. Also, the numax's indicator isnt green anymore (implying it needs a charge).
I will check the voltages with the engine running when I get home.
Just dawned on me, the power for the starter solenoid (not the actual starter) could be coming from the flat battery hence why you have to jump it. That would then explain the symptoms for starting as the low voltage wouldn't be enough to switch the solenoid. A faulty relay could explain the uncharged Numax but I'm still at a loss to explain why other things work better with the engine off.
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I'd love to actually see the mechanics of it .....
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I just re-read your original post and ...
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[*]Red top running the starter motor (roughly 12v without engine running)
[*]Numax running everything but the starter.
[*]while driving, tried main beam (not working), then try my ARB compressor, the truck slowly dies but engine still moving (I think the stop solenoid was devoid of power) truck started again as it was effectively bumped.
[*]lights and everything seem to function OK when engine is off
[*]very low voltage on the Numax (roughly 9.5-10v), but the Optima is ok.
[*]Truck wont start unless jumping from its self.
Are you certain it's the Numax that is low voltage and runs everything but the starter?
If the main battery (the optima) was low that would explain why you need to jump the batteries to start and why everything else works better when the engine isn't running as the relay will not be connecting the batteries and causing the voltage to be dragged down.
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I did have a feeling it could be that!
Cheers CwazyWabbit
No probs, if you try it with the engine off it seems really loud!
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The X charge relay should switch when the alternator warning light goes off, fitting instructions are here http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Charge.pdf and show how it's wired up.
If you diconnect the high current connections of the relay and connect a continuity tester accross them you should see no continuity, start the engine and when the light goes out there should be continuity, anything else would indicate a 'problem'. Don't forget to insulate the high current wires when they are disconnected!
HTH
Edited because I can't spell
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Well on the R380 that is the safety thing to stop you putting it into reverse. So worry if it doesn't click
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it works on the other forums he uses
http://www.de-cidertrophy.co.uk/
Is that the one he meant it to be?????
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that link is definetly not the 4x4 De-cider link - or maybe you selling advertising space?
He may have only just updated that domain to point to the server the web site is on, it takes a while for changes to the domain name system to propagate through the DNS infrastructure, the current site you get is some generic ad carp that's sits on lots of unused domains.
Or in English it'll probably be fine in the morning
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Nah, he has a 90
But with the 4.6 in it you could just hitch it up to something and stretch it into a 110
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Hmm,
You want rid of a 4.6 to fit a Diesel, I want rid of a TD5 with VGT to fit a 4.6...
Which one of us is mad?
You should both just swap landies and save the pair of you a lot of work!
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I've never seen a sensor wire going to the drum, do you mean at the lever end?
There's a better picture of the old style cable connection on this pic nicked from ebay, you can see that the cable run is over the other side of the transfer box to. You can also see the 17-19mm adjuster that started the whole conversation
No worries about all the questions ... the transmission brake was on the floor behind my office chair.... hmm I must tidy this place up a bit 
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Is there an easy way of telling? I'm at the stage of ordering both and seeing which one fits then send the other back.
thanks,
The easiest way of telling is how the cable enters the drum, the attached pic is of the newer type. and you can see cable goes straight in, the older type has a bracket jobby that a picture was posted of further up this thread
You should be able to see that fairly clearly (for the new style anyway) through the access panel under the centre seat. hth
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The cable type changed about the time of the 300tdi and started to go straight into the drum, it is possible to have a newer type cable and drum on your Defender if for example you have had the transfer box swapped ... when I bought my replacement transfer box it came with a new transmission brake and cable, the hand brake end is still the same.
I'd be inclined to check which cable you have just to be 100% certain before ordering and I'd order a genuine when it comes to cables, I'm sure I read somewhere (think it was on Glencoynes site although I could be wrong) about the pattern ones failing early.
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Piccie below, I think the unit is from a 90 / defender, as it nicely fits on the Passenger front of the inner wing, and
I know its a washer bottle - or is it.
The "Pump" looks quite "Meaty" for a washer pump, so, have I ccked up - is this actually for pressure washing headlamps, ??
I was all chuffed and pleased when I found this, as the existing washer tank is not going to fit with the engine conversion - and
I thought "Sorted" when I found this in the shed - or have a screwed up
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Nige
Looks like its PRC3300 washer bottle with an ADU6409L headlamp washer pump, so high pressure then. See http://lrcat.com/31/4/52891
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Sounds like you would be better off not using the hand brake for the moment and leaving her in gear when you stop, if two thirds of the cable has snapped I'd not want to trust what's left.
If you do want to adjust it though just use the adjuster behind the hand brake lever, you can do this while actually sitting in the drivers seat if the access panel under the centre seat/console is removed.
He wouldnt be able to follow me as his 5.2 wont be ready 
Electrical Problems
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
With the relay still wired up you can't check for continuity between 86 and 87 as effectively you are just connecting accross the numax battery terminals. You need to disconnect the wiring and then there will/should be no continuity. HTH
BTW how are you checking for continuity? test meter on a resistance setting or something else? There should be a resistance between 85 and 86 but I'm not sure what the coils resistance rating should be.