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Big.Mike

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Posts posted by Big.Mike

  1. Welcome to the forum!

    It could be a faulty sender in the fuel tank, it's a physical arm with a float that rises and lowers with the fuel level. If the float falls off or if the arm gets stuck then it will stay in one place.

    If you fill the tank up does the fuel gauge move?

    What specific Defender do you have? Tanks are located in lots of places on a Defender depending what it is and there are varying levels of difficulty in getting to the sender!

    Cheers,

    Mike

  2. you could swap the temp gauge & see if that reads the fuel contents, it won't hurt the gauge.

    Tried that, definitely the gauge, the temp one rose like it should (nearly off the end of the scale to be fair, a rare full tank!).

    Checked the continuity on the earth, measured the (just under) 12v off the ignition controlled feed.

    So next questions. What gauge do I need?

    Cheers,

    Mike

  3. what wires are on the back of the gauge ?


    Green going to a female spade terminal & green with black stripe going to male spade terminal... I ran a multimeter over then and they are reading 11.5v which I'm guessing (and it is a guess) means the gauge is duff...

    Do they just pop like this? No reading, no warning?

    Cheers,

    Mike
  4. Right, just had a look.

    The fuse is definitely okay although it is 20A not 15A???

    You would need to check the wiring diagrams, but I would remove the wires at the sender end and short them together

    I've done this, nothing happens at the gauge.

    What's the next step? Can I apply power directly to the gauge? Should I check for continuity along the wire? Just to double check what resistance should I be getting from the sender (tank full)?

    Ta,

    Mike

  5. Those gauges are fed via fuse 3, 15amp, as is also (and bizarrely) the indicators(but not when hazards) and rear wash wipe. Does the wiper work? I have had problems in the past with the rear wiper motor blowing fuses and taking out those items.

    Hmm, when you say take out, do you mean the gauge gets knackered too?

  6. As of a week ago, on start up my 300tdi fuel gauge is reading nowt. Even with a full tank and continues to do so.

    The engine has just been swapped and the thermostat doesn't work (the wrong sender I think).

    What's the best way of diagnosing the fault? (I'm not really concerned with the thermostat, but the fuel gauge is a flaming nuisance!)

    I've looked at the fuses and besides being a little corroded they are all solid.

    One more weird thing, they all seem to be 5 amps more than it says on the handy guide on the back of the fuse box cover...

  7. It would seem that the "idiot guy that "gave" his car to someone to sell..." really lost out - seems he got nothing!

    I personally would not buy anything from a dealer conviceted of such an obvious fraud - how could you believe anything they said? did anybody see anything about this in the various Land-Rover Magazines? (or maybe they were too worried about losing advertising revenue?)

    I'd say Mr Everett learnt a valuable lesson the hard way, don't give your car to anyone. As it says on the document, a V5 isn't proof of ownership. I really have no sympathy.

  8. Having just had faced this very situation, I was lucky enough to find an ex-mod recon 300Tdi... I guess if you are fitting it yourself go for an ex-disco one as you can change it again if your unlucky enough to have it pop again!

    if you have to pay for labour get a new engine, you don't want to have to pay it twice...

  9. Ashcroft started making their own LSD to avoid the issues with quaife...

    Quality isn't about strong steel, you have to realise that quaife make these things in small batches, several years apart so the introduction of errors into their manufacture process is massive. incorrect pinions, incorrect material, development by selling product are all rubbish ways of producing product.

    Quaife have the attitude that these parts are only ever going to be used in motor sports so only have to last one race...

    That's my point, with good lsd you shouldn't need a locking centre diff.

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