uninformed

Oh and always factory viscous fan. It had electric on front of AC condenser but that all got pulled out with the AC system.

This is what I was using in the 2.8 Tgv from day one. Flushed every 12-18 months https://www.tectaloy.com.au/corrosion-inhibitor-concentrates I had never gone to OAT as it was never in my system and didn’t want to cross contaminate. Funny though my mates 1998 Tdi came with it I’m pretty sure , his build a few months after mine.

So you missed question 1 like most of the rest lol As for slagging off, you missed when I said the original engine stock, and other Australian 300 Tdi Defender owners having issue. I dont have spot lights at all on the vehicle. 32 inch tyres 2 inch spring lift, stock gearing. And given the tow rating of 3.5t, 1.9t is well within spec, especially when the tow rig has little to no weight on it. And since it is a cab chassis with alloy tray probably lighter than most 110s. How is it practical to drop gears when driving on flat highway 100km/h in traffic for example, if it was one particular situation that made it hot then for sure, but its not. Imagine driving a vehicle where you had to constantly drop gears to increase revs (outside the designed ratios ideal for speed from factory) just to cool the engine, then repeat evey x time. But then if factory system is totally fine, why should I when you say "The system copes perfectly well with the stock engine and heavy loads in harsh climates if driven and maintained properly" But I can say if driving up inclines with load, I will always drop back to 4th for the gearbox and egts, plus they just bog down too much. I do like your idea of the oil cooler and wider radiator though.

Exactly, and why I was hoping to get some feedback on installation and in use of the wider set ups. Always have to take the sales pitch with a grain of salt A guy got back to me on FB, he has only done a front mount IC for his HS 2.8 Tgv (still stock type rad) but has recorded a inlet temp drop from average of 79 to 37 with a Max seen of 43c full boot. I asked about pressure drop but unfortunately he has not measured that yet, only to say he feels it revs more freely and has more get up and go , no noticeable lag.

I guess we could say it has less cooling effect but that would come back to the efficiency of the complete system. From what I’ve been told most vehicles have oil coolers like that and it was considered an improvement over the 300Tdi.

Too funny “You've asserted that bigger/thicker rads won't help much but then said the Japanese are better because they fit much bigger rads... which is it?” this is a direct quote from you... if you can’t see what you’ve done there I can’t help you

Regarding the Jap stuff, I wasn’t commenting on their thickness, but rather their frontal area. AND the coolant capacity. You choose to see it as a contradiction but no where did I say thicker on the Jap stuff. just like a bigger intercooler may actually be a backward step, we can’t just say thicker rad is better. Air flow through it is important. I’m blown away by the number of people that continue to state I started a thread with incomplete information. Their interpretation of my question being more than what it simply was is on them not me. I can’t believe I have to keep going over this. Please everyone go back and read my opening post. Nowhere did I mention problems or ask for diagnosis of problems. All I wanted was to hear from those who have fitted larger radiators, specifically wider types ( which in turn means front mount intercooler) that could have lead to discussions on plumbing, air flow of stacked coolers, pressure drop in IC etc but instead people insist on making me jump through hoops to questions that were never asked. I never asked for them to guess my set up. Please tell me why it is crucial to know the complete workings of my vehicle when I’m asking about other peoples set ups NOT MINE. Believe it or not I wasn’t here to discuss mine but those that have done what I asked and learn from their set ups.

The HS 2.8 Tgv has an on block oil cooler. It does not use the radiator. but yes , absolutely agree with oil temps playing a roll, and 20c is a decent increase.

Yet I never asked what was wrong with my system or asked for diagnosis, if I had I would have put all my information in my first post. so many people saying “I’m out” yet won’t acknowledge they did not contribute to the original question. Saying they are only trying to help when not answering it, trying to find problems I didn’t bring up and then within my replies, only to site “ it’s never happened to me” as proof of argument. I only answered people’s questions as they came up to try and get past a problem with my system to get back to my original question of who has fitted a bigger radiator etc. Surely with all the winch challenge guys etc and tuned up Tdis AND multiple upgraded radiator manufacturers in the UK I figured some here would have ?

FWIW, I just heard back from one of my Engineer mates who sent me some papers on Thermal Conductivity of Humid Air. In short, the higher the ambient temperature the greater the difference in thermal efficiency between 0 RH and 100 RH (RH is relative humidity). 0 RH being more efficient than 100 RH. At zero degrees temp they are very close to each other, only getting further apart as the temperature rises. BUT IT IS VERY MINIMAL, and I do mean VERY. On the other hand the higher the RH, you get a similar increase in heat capacity. They pretty much cancel each other out by the looks.

I’ll try this again (some how got multiple replier quotes sorry) I had checked the WaxStat ones that are factory fitted to the 300Tdi and 2.8 Tgv in hot water with a thermometer. If I recall they crack at 88c and continue to open until fully open at a higher temperature (sorry I can not recall what that temp was) The one I have is exactly the same design and physical dimensions as factory it just starts to open at 82~84c. Once fully open it does not flow more or less than the factory thermostat. So yes once all up to temp and full heat sink in the system then it won’t be much different, just got things working earlier. the guard vent made the most difference. so can you tell me what I’m missing re the tstat?

I was on a large Australian based LR forum, I had added much contribution over the years, detailed gearbox rebuilds (many hrs in uploading photos) etc had shared what little knowledge I have AND my failures (most don’t). Even though the forum has ads they now require payment to participate. It also had a lot of the much more knowledgeable members move on due to the same dribble ie what car wax to use on new defenders, countless what springs should I use, Will my tyres rub etc. with little real tech being added. A few moved to Facebook groups which I reluctantly re joined (FB) but a lot just went about their lives as for here, I have been a member for many years had some good info here and there and figured since the UK is the home of LR AND the major cooling upgrade players that their would have been at least one person who has fitted full width rad to their Tdi

You are absolutely correct regarding limited range of control. When compared to other competitors systems it is under done. Look at Toyota and Nissan rad sizes and coolant capacity. I understand how a t/stat works and found one that cracks 4-6 degrees c earlier. I also understand a engine has an optimal working temp for power, efficiency and reliability. But it’s better to be on or under that than over. regarding the stock Tdi LR Defender gauge , I agree with your theory but in reality they set the range to broad, that is once it starts to move from the “Normal” position and you notice it, it is well past 100c and in bad territory (even though a pressurised system doesn’t “boil “ at 100c) It is common recommendation here in Oz to get rid of that horrible gauge. Another very common practice in Australia is to get the bleed hole in the divider that is about 15mm dia reduced to 3/4mm. We get too much bypass and water not getting cooled. It is however important for areas that see freezing conditions we also run thicker cores, so can’t really go to that as already been done. as I stated earlier my 300Tdi was well maintained and had issues, when I went to the 2.8 Tgv, I had out of good practice a new radiator installed (black expansion tank which are prone to splitting was earlier changed out, though a new cap installed, again good practice) I also had a thicker intercooler. So with a complete brand new engine , new radiator, new caps etc I had issues, which lead to the lower cracking thermostat and guard vent. These made the best change im just looking for more security reliability given I’m completely rebuilding and customising my 110 from the ground up and want to do some touring in it when done

Yes the change in inlet/outlet for both radiator and intercooler is far from ideal ,but I had heard of a D2 radiator in a D1 so was wondering if any had done similar to a Defender and their plumbing solutions. I had used my 110 as my daily driver/work vehicle, towing 1.9t daily (Well within LR specs) but rarely load in/on vehicle. I’ve had issues with and without the trailer on. As I will continue to state, and very clear by the feedback here on LR4x4, that it is more common to push the limits of the cooling in Australia than the UK. No surprise there. Whilst I do have a HS 2.8Tgv, other 300Tdi users have issue in Oz as well. The 200Tdi had a better water pump and block design at water entry point and produced less power, not to mention its location in engine bay. Never really hear of problems with them here, only 300Tdi I am pretty sympathetic with driving to conditions especially heat.

I answered your original questions, you disagreed with my answer , I had to prove to you that I was correct in one of them and all you can add is your out, like you can’t be bothered adding your presence here. oh how I’m not worthy pot, kettle , black... you simply could have chosen to not reply and be done, why feel the need to announce it to everyone?

Your contribution to my original question will be sorely missed...

You and others assume I haven’t been through the system. Refusing to believe that conditions outside of your own put the system on its limits quicker and more regularly. I am not an isolated case here in Australia No one has mentioned the difference in water flow between the the 200 and 300 Tdi, or the power increase etc. No one has mentioned fin pitch importance when stacking radiators in front of each other. No one has mentioned air damming in the engine bay Only one person brought up tyre size, no one questioned lift or gearing etc It’s repeated the system is more than adequate , yet I’m advised to do things like remove the viscous fan (bad) drop gears to increase rpm /water flow (completely impractical) , add a thicker core (which can be diminishing returns as the air heats up as it passes through the radiator doing little to the rear) So tell me again what makes these so call learned people more educated in MY situation. So many assumptions have been made. I should not have to answer a ton of questions to prove/justify my first. it’s pretty simple , most of the replies can’t actually help with my original question but are playing confirmation bias with themselves. Guys put yourself in my shoes, You ask a simple question for feedback/installation on a mod, then get pretty much everyone saying (without any real knowledge of your conditions or experience or your own knowledge) that you must have problems in your system and basically you don’t know what you are doing... you answer some questions to try and get back on point and the same just continues.

Yet no matter how much info I give most are not listening to me. this is not my first time. reminds me of when the Australian Army told LR their track rods were undersized and LR would have none of it...

Guys you don’t need to solve my cooling issues. If you don’t need more cooling great, but don’t tell me I don’t need it based on your useage! im interested in those that have actually fitted the larger set ups and how they went about install and plumbing.

So hopefully we can put all the non asked questions to bed and get back to my original question....

I’m trying to get some information from some engineers I know because my explanation won’t do. I understand water is more efficient than air ( think of a hot piece of steel dropped into a bucket of water 20c or a bucket of air 20c) it’s specific heat capacity is over 4 times greater than air. But that’s not what is happening with water in a radiator and humid air in short humid air is less dense. here is a quick grab from the web. https://www.electronics-cooling.com/2003/11/the-thermal-conductivity-of-moist-air/

My Tdi was stock except for a larger exhaust , which improved turbo spool up but decreased egts a touch. Mild pump tune was done with NO black smoke after HG was replaced. The engine eventually ate the crank as big end bearings failed ( known to be from bad batch from factory in a 3 month or so period 1998 build). In went the HS 2.8 Tgv. Stock other than exhaust. After making note of reading of egt and temp gauge, egt was never a problem. Get a reasonable temp gauge that has a scale of numbers rather than C-N-H and you can watch the changes real time with speed/Load/weather etc. Yes in Australia we probably do greater distances at speed or towing etc, but all within the vehicles specifications and it shows the limits of the cooling system. Fin pitch is important when stacking radiators in front of each other, so is exit air flow.

Plenty of Tdi head gaskets etc in Australia. I had one go on my 300Tdi and this vehicle was log book serviced, coolant flushed every 12-18 months etc. With brand new radiator, thermostat, hoses and a completely new HS 2.8 Tgv I struggled to keep the temperature below 93 when all but putting along at 60km/h no payload . Measured at t/stat housing and with a proper gauge! The factory gauge was a freaking joke! Sits in normal position from 90-105c by the time you see it move it’s too late. Cutting a vent in left guard helped wonders as the Land Rover engine bay is carp air flow and causes air dam. Having a vent in left guard ( same spot as 200Tdi intake) allowed the exit of hot air, especially from turbo and more flow through radiator. Proven by a drop in temp across speeds/loads etc and even improvement at idle in traffic I laugh when I hear the old “they were tested in the Sahara” , yes they were but that doesn’t provide the real world data that numbers sold and used x years does. Why did LR change to full width and front mount intercooler on a better designed engine (Td5) with better water flow??? As for your weather, while I’m sure you have some freak hot days on record it’s no where near the averages we see here. As for humidity. Sorry that is incorrect

Some of us live in countries that get above 25c and have relative humidity above 65% in summer. The factory 300Tdi cooling, when in good working order, is marginal at best. Fact! The factory intercooler is undersized for the boost they run. Even Mike of Britannica Restorations (one of yours) talks about this. I also have a HS 2.8 Tgv that produces more boost and power (equals heat)