uninformed

They are Design and Development Engineering. I mentioned them just a few posts prior...

Has anyone here looked into the Design and Developments Engineering kits? Should be available soon. 370 quid by the sounds of it. Looks like early 90/110 caliper

There is a good chance welding those spring seats and caliper brackets on have put your ends out of allignment. You really should be using an alignment bar once all is finished, then if out bend true with a porta power. As a note, welding the small Maxidrive difflock acuator weld on block to a rover housing requires about 5-6mm of pre stress in the housing, and that is a little 90x60mm rectangle block.

If your truss stops short of the ends, say inside the coil mounts not much point. Maybe better off running a back brace full length. keep up the good work though. Good to see something different

Regarding the comment of spring rates higher in the rear. There is a couple of reasons to do that. To tune the roll stiffness of the links. You can use a anti roll bar, but springs is a sort of cheat. Of course this is determined by the link set up front and rear, and their roll stiffness compared to each other. The other reason is spring frequency. The rear should always be higher than the front. Its got to do with pitch and ride etc. Yes weight over axle will determine spring rate, but unless very very light rear, the rate would be somewhere the same or higher in the rear. cheers Serg

Was there a reason to run it centred? does it make fabrication easier for you?

IMO I would run it offset, not only for alignment of prop shaft, but for offroading.

Wheel base has no effect on articulation. Springs and shocks are only "tuning" the available articulation. The front radius arm set up has a higher roll stiffness than the rear "A frame/trailing arm" set up. Getting the front to perform to its best and tuning the rear to suit is a good start. The early narrow radius arms offer more articulation over the later wider type. Bush brand will also determine the amount of articulation to a degree. Softer the better (as long as they last) Not all polyurethane bushes are the same hardness. The two limiting factors (for articulation) of a Radius arm are its length and the separation between the two axle bushes. The longer the arm the better. The closer the two bushes the less resistance they have. But bush separation can be counteracted by bush design. Point in case, the D2 Radius arms have greater axle bush separation, but the bushes have more rubber and look to have a greater range of movement over the later defender type. Plus the D2 arms are about 100mm longer. Another option could be to get a stock Defender Radius arm and bore the axle bush holes to take Nissan Patrol bushes (larger, more rubber, more range of movement) In short, with stock links etc, run the softest spring reasonable in the front, and tune the rear to suit. The rear is easy to get to flex, but having silly flexy rear makes for an unbalanced vehicle. Keeping the vehicle as low as possible is a good help to Lower COG and keeps the geometry better for on and offroad use, intern making softer springs less of a detriment. cheers Serg

I know this is an old thread, but the bolts on my 98’ 110 were not metric, but imperial UNF from factory ( marked Atlas) the 1/2” at A frame arms to ball joint connection are grade 8 and the two big 3/4” at end of A frame arm to chassis are grade 5. So I’m not sure how a 92 would be metric? Class for metric and Grade for SAE don’t line up. Grade 8 is about same as Class 10.9

Thanks David, is there any links to an online copy of the S111 workshop manual?

ok, so what is the TS for the stub axle to swivel housing?

I would doubt they be the same as Coil sprung land rovers as there are differences in threads etc. I did manage to look through some old Series manuals, but they are a bit hit and miss compared to the later manuals for torque settings. The stub axle to swivel housing bolts are 3/8 BSF, im yet to find a TS for those. The king pin is also 3/8 BSF and says 50-60 lbf.ft The steering arm has 7/16 BSF studs, that if have been removed, need to be replaced and installed to 40-50 lbf.ft with loctite 270 and then when actually installing the steeering arm and doing up the nuts, 50-60 lbf.ft.... so thats a little odd

Hey all, Im looking for the torque settings for the front axle swivel assembly for a SIII Stage 1 V8 Stub axle to swivel housing King pin Steering arm. Thanks Serg

Yep, ill confirm that also.

Just to confirm, Western is on the money. Front Defender vented rotor calipers require gallery seal 3851-739. They have an inner steel tube to support the seal, this does NOT come with the seals. Re use from your calipers. I bought mine from Shop4autoparts when i rebuilt them in 2013. Never had a issue with many kms put on them. BTW when I went to a local LR dealer (here in Australia) they couldnt even find the part number.

Nice build. Lots of work going on and lots to think about. 👍 Regarding your housing spacers, what material have you used for them (if aluminium, what series)? Did you machine a spigot on the axle housing side (like swivel ball has)? You could machine chamfers of appropriate sizes on the matching spigots/recesses to allow for O rings and that would be a help in the LR oil battles and be slightly better for joint strength sans any gasket. Im doing something similar, but are'nt confident in the 7 bolts so will be welding the spacers in place as well. oh and dont forget that one of the 7 factory swivel bolts is a dowel bolt that pins the swivel on castor etc. cheers

Excellent pictures, thank you. The only thing I could say, with your animation vid, if the time for each part being added was a touch longer. but great work none the less. Now you just have to do one with Ashcroft ATB and one with MaxiDrive low range gears 🙂

It seems the later Defenders had better quality shocks than the earlier, which is suprising since LR decided to cost cut everything on the Tdci's

Surely it says on the can when fully dry and ready for re coating? And those times are within a given temp and humidity range. Id say it would be at least 24hrs for full drying before painting over with your colour. Try googling the brand and type of paint you have, they should have tech info on site

Well the floor rivets are 1/4” or next closest size. I drilled out with a 6.5mm drill bit and it didn’t quite remove stem.

So I’ve started dismantling my 109 Hardtop tub. Can anyone give any info on the solid rivets used? Availability, tooling? I will be completely pulling apart the tub for modification cheers Serg

Why the rolled eyes mate?

Hey all, Im custom building my 1998 Defender 110 300Tdi Cab Chassis. It came as a truck cab, no rear tub etc, the body finishes at rear bulkhead. I have a series 2 109 Hard Top rear tub that im going to use to convert it to Truck Cab Pick Up. A few things before suggestions are fired off. 109/110 hard Top tubs are not growing on trees here in Australia.110 Hard Tops are as rare as rocking horse.....110 Pick ups even more rare. While a series tub will pretty much bolt up to a 110 (As I understand it) The wheel arches are a different shape and in a different postions. Fuel filler presents a problems also. It seems in Australia (at least) We did not go rear fuel filler until Stage 1 V8. NOTHING is standard on my 110 except wheelbase. I am making the cab and doors longer. I will be shortening the rear overhang to somewhere between 90 and 110. Looking at my factory rear bulkhead (when compared to a series tub), it has a 3mm steel angle plate, full width, bolted to the underside, at the mounting points. This has 2 welded tabs with a single hole in each, these pick up a flat bar gusset that bolts back to the chassis. These are located very close to the seatbelt retainer mount brackets. Ignore the flared holes as I put those in. My rear bulkhead also has a little more strengthening at the door latch. It has more holes in the inside bottom section for the seat belts and has some stays behind the seats that go up to the underside of windows, under the gal capping. I saw a pic in another thread of a Td5 110 2 door tub. Underside looked more like the series without the steel angle plate. Series and the Td5 tub would not be able to use the steel angle plate as they have the triangle gussest spot welded from the vertical mounting section to underside of tub.... So what thoughts on which rear bulkead to use? Even if I use the series 2 one I have, ill have to remove and reinstall it into its new location.... Ive added some pics to hopefully help.

Thats there choice. I have my build on Instagram. I chose that out of all social media (this is social media too dont forget) I wanted a place to diary my build (for myself) and be a idea for others if they wanted to do anything similar. Its a great back up if I lose my phone/computer etc.Its also helpful for my engineer. I can do it straight from phone much easier than doing a build here. I have problems with LR4x4 on my phone as it is. Anyway Ill go ask in the Defender section.

Good stuff 👍 , and probably the best engine LR ever made. Could you take some detailed picks of the underside of the rear tub, front end. I have a 110 truck cab, cab chassis. The body finishes at rear bulkhead. It has a metal plate sandwiched to the lower section that bolts to the chassis/body outriggers. It looks like the 110 tub has braces or gussets to the underside, so this would not be possible. Im converting a 109 series tub to my 110 and am probably going to use the 110 rear bulkhead, as it has more mounting holes for seat belts etc. cheers Serg