uninformed

I was on a large Australian based LR forum, I had added much contribution over the years, detailed gearbox rebuilds (many hrs in uploading photos) etc had shared what little knowledge I have AND my failures (most don’t). Even though the forum has ads they now require payment to participate. It also had a lot of the much more knowledgeable members move on due to the same dribble ie what car wax to use on new defenders, countless what springs should I use, Will my tyres rub etc. with little real tech being added. A few moved to Facebook groups which I reluctantly re joined (FB) but a lot just went about their lives as for here, I have been a member for many years had some good info here and there and figured since the UK is the home of LR AND the major cooling upgrade players that their would have been at least one person who has fitted full width rad to their Tdi

You are absolutely correct regarding limited range of control. When compared to other competitors systems it is under done. Look at Toyota and Nissan rad sizes and coolant capacity. I understand how a t/stat works and found one that cracks 4-6 degrees c earlier. I also understand a engine has an optimal working temp for power, efficiency and reliability. But it’s better to be on or under that than over. regarding the stock Tdi LR Defender gauge , I agree with your theory but in reality they set the range to broad, that is once it starts to move from the “Normal” position and you notice it, it is well past 100c and in bad territory (even though a pressurised system doesn’t “boil “ at 100c) It is common recommendation here in Oz to get rid of that horrible gauge. Another very common practice in Australia is to get the bleed hole in the divider that is about 15mm dia reduced to 3/4mm. We get too much bypass and water not getting cooled. It is however important for areas that see freezing conditions we also run thicker cores, so can’t really go to that as already been done. as I stated earlier my 300Tdi was well maintained and had issues, when I went to the 2.8 Tgv, I had out of good practice a new radiator installed (black expansion tank which are prone to splitting was earlier changed out, though a new cap installed, again good practice) I also had a thicker intercooler. So with a complete brand new engine , new radiator, new caps etc I had issues, which lead to the lower cracking thermostat and guard vent. These made the best change im just looking for more security reliability given I’m completely rebuilding and customising my 110 from the ground up and want to do some touring in it when done

Yes the change in inlet/outlet for both radiator and intercooler is far from ideal ,but I had heard of a D2 radiator in a D1 so was wondering if any had done similar to a Defender and their plumbing solutions. I had used my 110 as my daily driver/work vehicle, towing 1.9t daily (Well within LR specs) but rarely load in/on vehicle. I’ve had issues with and without the trailer on. As I will continue to state, and very clear by the feedback here on LR4x4, that it is more common to push the limits of the cooling in Australia than the UK. No surprise there. Whilst I do have a HS 2.8Tgv, other 300Tdi users have issue in Oz as well. The 200Tdi had a better water pump and block design at water entry point and produced less power, not to mention its location in engine bay. Never really hear of problems with them here, only 300Tdi I am pretty sympathetic with driving to conditions especially heat.

I answered your original questions, you disagreed with my answer , I had to prove to you that I was correct in one of them and all you can add is your out, like you can’t be bothered adding your presence here. oh how I’m not worthy pot, kettle , black... you simply could have chosen to not reply and be done, why feel the need to announce it to everyone?

Your contribution to my original question will be sorely missed...

You and others assume I haven’t been through the system. Refusing to believe that conditions outside of your own put the system on its limits quicker and more regularly. I am not an isolated case here in Australia No one has mentioned the difference in water flow between the the 200 and 300 Tdi, or the power increase etc. No one has mentioned fin pitch importance when stacking radiators in front of each other. No one has mentioned air damming in the engine bay Only one person brought up tyre size, no one questioned lift or gearing etc It’s repeated the system is more than adequate , yet I’m advised to do things like remove the viscous fan (bad) drop gears to increase rpm /water flow (completely impractical) , add a thicker core (which can be diminishing returns as the air heats up as it passes through the radiator doing little to the rear) So tell me again what makes these so call learned people more educated in MY situation. So many assumptions have been made. I should not have to answer a ton of questions to prove/justify my first. it’s pretty simple , most of the replies can’t actually help with my original question but are playing confirmation bias with themselves. Guys put yourself in my shoes, You ask a simple question for feedback/installation on a mod, then get pretty much everyone saying (without any real knowledge of your conditions or experience or your own knowledge) that you must have problems in your system and basically you don’t know what you are doing... you answer some questions to try and get back on point and the same just continues.

Yet no matter how much info I give most are not listening to me. this is not my first time. reminds me of when the Australian Army told LR their track rods were undersized and LR would have none of it...

Guys you don’t need to solve my cooling issues. If you don’t need more cooling great, but don’t tell me I don’t need it based on your useage! im interested in those that have actually fitted the larger set ups and how they went about install and plumbing.

So hopefully we can put all the non asked questions to bed and get back to my original question....

I’m trying to get some information from some engineers I know because my explanation won’t do. I understand water is more efficient than air ( think of a hot piece of steel dropped into a bucket of water 20c or a bucket of air 20c) it’s specific heat capacity is over 4 times greater than air. But that’s not what is happening with water in a radiator and humid air in short humid air is less dense. here is a quick grab from the web. https://www.electronics-cooling.com/2003/11/the-thermal-conductivity-of-moist-air/

My Tdi was stock except for a larger exhaust , which improved turbo spool up but decreased egts a touch. Mild pump tune was done with NO black smoke after HG was replaced. The engine eventually ate the crank as big end bearings failed ( known to be from bad batch from factory in a 3 month or so period 1998 build). In went the HS 2.8 Tgv. Stock other than exhaust. After making note of reading of egt and temp gauge, egt was never a problem. Get a reasonable temp gauge that has a scale of numbers rather than C-N-H and you can watch the changes real time with speed/Load/weather etc. Yes in Australia we probably do greater distances at speed or towing etc, but all within the vehicles specifications and it shows the limits of the cooling system. Fin pitch is important when stacking radiators in front of each other, so is exit air flow.

Plenty of Tdi head gaskets etc in Australia. I had one go on my 300Tdi and this vehicle was log book serviced, coolant flushed every 12-18 months etc. With brand new radiator, thermostat, hoses and a completely new HS 2.8 Tgv I struggled to keep the temperature below 93 when all but putting along at 60km/h no payload . Measured at t/stat housing and with a proper gauge! The factory gauge was a freaking joke! Sits in normal position from 90-105c by the time you see it move it’s too late. Cutting a vent in left guard helped wonders as the Land Rover engine bay is carp air flow and causes air dam. Having a vent in left guard ( same spot as 200Tdi intake) allowed the exit of hot air, especially from turbo and more flow through radiator. Proven by a drop in temp across speeds/loads etc and even improvement at idle in traffic I laugh when I hear the old “they were tested in the Sahara” , yes they were but that doesn’t provide the real world data that numbers sold and used x years does. Why did LR change to full width and front mount intercooler on a better designed engine (Td5) with better water flow??? As for your weather, while I’m sure you have some freak hot days on record it’s no where near the averages we see here. As for humidity. Sorry that is incorrect

Some of us live in countries that get above 25c and have relative humidity above 65% in summer. The factory 300Tdi cooling, when in good working order, is marginal at best. Fact! The factory intercooler is undersized for the boost they run. Even Mike of Britannica Restorations (one of yours) talks about this. I also have a HS 2.8 Tgv that produces more boost and power (equals heat)

Hey all, who here has upgraded their radiator to a larger size and gone front mount intercooler? has anyone put a Td5 radiator/intercooler set up in a Tdi? pics of either would be great. I know Alisport have an offering for the Tdi , the radiator being 70mm wider . They say it uses factory hoses , I guess they just stretch them over? cheers Serg

You don't need salt or electricity to trigger electrolysis, simply moisture. Barrier coatings if in some sort of liquid form break down over time, and can be messy. Plus there is always the risk of Gailling with stainless, as for removing, same applies for non stainless, as you have stated, clean and in appropriate places, anti seize. I have never had stuck bolts on maintenance items Given LR door frames prone to rust and leak, no way I would have a stainless bolt go inside, and the hinge corroding the aluminium skin. Each to their own, but the only stainless I will have on my 110 is the brake pistons, and maybe exhaust.

Great info guys, Thank you. I got a rough measurement off a Td5 90 and I dont think I will use that style tank. Since the 90 does not have the intermediate cross member above rear axle like the 110, using the 90 tank I would only be able to remove 100mm from the rear overhang. Not as much as I would like, and the 90 tank also hangs lower, not a problem on the short overhang of the 90 but even If I could take 200mm off my 110 AND use the 90 tank, I would still have more overhang than a 90 and the lower tank more susceptible to impact. Looks like a custom tank will be the answer.

I guess no one cares about electrolysis from dissimilar metals?

OK, so while you are all trying to find your tape measures.... If I do use a Td5 tank on a Tdi, what do I need to change? Pump? Sendor? fittings? cheers Serg

Hey all, Im looking to reduce the rear overhang on my 300Tdi 110. Can someone tell me the length of the 90 Td5 fuel tank? Length being front to back measurement. cheers Serg

From a mechanical engineering point of view, no gasket material of any kind would be best, but we have to deal with oil and sealing it. So next best thing is thinest is best. If they are the same PCD (I know both early and late 110 are M10 bolts for drive flange to hub) then I will use the thinner later type.

As an outsider looking in, it seems a lot of the rally raiders in the uk either convert their defenders to D2 stuff or build on D2 chassis. The D2 front end has a improvements over the Defednder. You cant beat long travel for high speed off road work, but thats up travel. Lifting your d90 on the springs will increase COG and worsen suspension geometry, in short what you gain in up travel you lose more so else where. Spring rates will be key, along with Goog quality tuneable shocks. If you can fit 2.5" external fox , king etc then go for those and as RLM said, hydro bumps. 300Tdi, as much cooling as you can give it and keep the tune clean and low. Cut a vent in the left wing (where a 200tdi air intake would be) R380, HDbearing upgrade LT230 Ahscroft atb, extended sump.

Hey all, early 110 up to probably 93, part number FRC3988 - thick Late 110 probably 93 onwards, part number 571752 - thin paper Was there differences in the hub to drive flange PCD? I have early hubs but prefer the later thiner gasket.

I’m guessing 8” wide or more? Also guessing you already had them... and I probably should not say this as you can’t change what you have done, but if building custom housings why not make them wider and go positive offset.. you get a few benefits. I also would have triangulated your rear trailing arms. but keep at it bud. 👍

every bit helps. What rim size and offset/backspace are you running?