uninformed

I read somewhere "tubeular space frame" or the such. I wonder if that ment a whole new tube chassis or just tube/cage work added to a modified RR chassis? I have also recently seen a picture with the rear body removed. One big piece that unclips. Im pretty sure I could see a coil over shock mounted quite vertically. Definietly the rear stays of a cage/roll bar.

I'm pretty sure J E Motors built the 4.2 Rover V8 engines for these vehicles. Thats all the info I have at this stage? Any ideas on chassis, suspension and drive train?

do you guys get Inox brand ?

hey all, Looking for any info on the (french run, I think) shortend 1988 RR's that were in the Paris Dakar cheers Serg

Hi all, Im looking at buying a pair of trailing arm mounts for my 110 Defender. I looked at Rimmerbros and they show only britpart as available.I have no idea where they would be made and from what, but I dont get the warm fuzzies from them. I looked up Richards/marsland and designa but having trouble sending Richards and Designa email. (why cant they just have their address on site?) does anyone have Designas email? Also anywhere else to look for quality trailing arm mounts? cheers Serg

thought id add to this thread rather than starting another new one. Im looking for wolf 300Tdi air filter housing part number. Apparently this is a plastic version of the tin LR 300Tdi one??? it may or not be the same filter size??? cheers Serg

Yep and why i said good chance and not definitely will. Given his engine number is not in the "normal" location and neither is mine and given he thought his could be dodgy i was using a bit of logic and trying to rest his mine that a genuine 2.8tgv engine number can end in 16L

Or maybe you could take 10secs to look where i suggested....ill give you a hint, thsts where it is on mine and yes it ends in 16L

yeah that pic is definitely right side, but try the front left, top of engine block, just below head, under the exhaust manifold. You might be surprised there is a good chance it ends in 16L

are they washer jet pumps generic car type or LR specific? Mine is leaking and my local indy LR guy wants $35 for a non genuine pump with OUT rubber grommet/seal. I was also thinking of fitting 2 pumps.

amazing work, but its still the same ethos thats plagued LR owners for decades….adding more and more bits instead of starting at the structure. For example. Instead of adding wider guards, how about a wider bulkhead, roof, bonet etc . Instead of adding crappy wheel spacers, how about wider housings and back to wider bearings spacings etc How about longer doors so normal size people can fit comfortably stretch to 100wb to make in proportion with longer doors and wider vehicle. thats more along the lines of how I dream

lots of lucky dip going on here. IMO start by weighing the truck and front and rear axle weights. Figure out your current rate accurately and dial in from there. How hard is it to get custom coils wound in the UK?

If you cant get the rubber ones to stick in place might want to give up rovers lol. Simple clean surfaces and the appropirate sikaflex has seen my rubber seals in service on my 98 110 for about 15 years. It has never been garaged. A word of warning. The rubber seals are stiffer. The later ,300tdi at least, vent flaps are thinner material, and they end up deflecting and not sealing that well at full shut. From day one I was in the habbit of leaving them 2~3 notches off full shut unless raining, and most the time are full open still didnt stop it. When I eventually replace my rotted bulkhead, ill probabaly try the foam type again. Thinking off adding another layer of Alu to the outside of the vents to stiffen as well....

Hey all, I have a 300 Tdi defender fitted with safari snorkel. The original intake hose from snorkel to air filter housing is split and needs replacing. Is there any upgrade hose available out there? The water valve is siliconed up anyway. cheers Serg

stiffer spring to push down on RA means stiffer spring for RA to push up and compress.... Im guessing a truck cab type body? There are a few reasons why you would have a higher spring rate in the rear, espeically coil sprung stock LRs. These include and not limited to: higher rear COG, less roll stiffness in the rear link set up, higher sprung mass.... Since yours eliminates these, Im GUESSING your rears could be closer to the front rate wise. The slower you drive (do you only use it in first low for crawling trials etc??) the closer in rate I guess they would be since you are saying same front and rear mass. Im sure you guys in the UK must be able to get coils custom made at the drop of a hat? I can here in the colonies.... 133lb will be a good start. I know your rig will be light but remember the original RRC was liteish and ran 133lb with good results. Also there is a great deal of importantance between spring rate and shock valving. Play around with springs as best you can till you find a good rate then tune the shocks to suit. btw, take everything I say wth a grain of salt.... just a web wheeler

even if same springs front and back made it level you dont want same spring rate front and back. Is your rig custom suspenion links or stock. No D1 ever had radius arms in the back.

I doubt the switch would be coming on in the high 70s. A mate put a thermocupler on his 98 130 R380. Had a small bit of gear in the tray, took it for a morning run in winter (NSW so cool by Aus standards), it got to 74c within 7 km. Also your water temp gauge doesnt go into the red just after the thermostat has cracked. Yes you get to the thermostat from the back end and it goes inside the long bulged area Good point tracr2man, there is definitely no provison for the oil temp switch on the oil cooler thermatic housing. If someone has the parts diagram for the oil cooler pipes and cooler, it may be in there?

I can tell you the thermostat is in the block. I have had mine apart. I also checked the operation of the t/stat, it cracks at 74c and is fully open by 84~88c. Yes its a vertical thermometer on the dash warning light area. Mine is wired up to a bulb from factory and is now coming on with engine starting (position III) but I dont have the switch/sender at the gearbox lol. Good circuit board in my 98 Tdi! Do you know what temp the switch/sender makes the light come on? Re the part numbers, are you basicly saying there is only one oil cooler block and LR have had a part # cluster F....

ok, alot of what you guys said is just chinese to me lol. But I know myself and others that have fitted the LED (wipac or RDX) indicators have problems. Mine worked straight up but my warning light circuit board is corroded on the left end (trailer and signal end)..... others had theirs work when they removed the bulb from the warning light ????

thank, looks like a better board than the old tally-ho paper folded job from my Tdi. now this question may seem dafted, and thats because I only know that electircs is some kind of voodoo, or black magic as it were. When LED replacement lenses are fitted to the indicators on some LR (the actual indicators, not the warning bulbs) there are some issues. You can buy a wipac or RDX flasher can that apparently fixes this. But it seems that when said indicators are installed, if you remove the dash warning light bulb, they function fine. That makes me think there is some connection with LR warning light pannel. Would chaning to the Td5 warning pannel, remove the issues when fitting LED indicators etc?

Yes I thought that could be the case re FTC2104, but there are other online stores that sell the oil cooler t/stat housing under part # FTC2104??? We also have to remember that there was different cooler set ups, the simple looped tube and the tube with real finned cooler at front, could that lead to a different hosuing/part# while we are talking about the sender, do you know if it can be fitted elsewhere if going the oil cooler route? do you know at what oil temp the sender would light up the warning light on dash? cheers Serg

Well Id like to know the internal differences. Do they all run the same thermostat? do they all have the same port sizes and flow rates? Why did LR apparently offer 2-3 differnt versions of it?

Is the Td5 circuit board the same as the Tdi?

thanks AMB so if the oil temp light, lights up on truning the engine over, (not ignition) does that mean its fitted. though it could be my corrooded circuit board? I have a aftermarket immobiliser, but its not hooked up to that.

yeah not sure what Im missing but im going to say you are wrong. I have just changed 16 dash warning filament bulbs to LED bulbs. I simply took one original bulb out, went to my local electronic store and got LED replacements. They push straight in the bulb holders as they have the same tail. That other info you linked is good. Looks like the Td5 warning lights are a sealed unit? Much better than the earlier stuff, hopefully the plugs are good quality. A bit of work to do the whole dash binicale, and im not a fan of LR guages, though the Td5 units may be better than the earlier junk. (not hard) A custom warning unit may be on the cards....