uninformed

The RRC/D1/Def Radius arm bush separation is 6.5” or 165.1 (sound familiar 😉). I’m not sure of the D2, but while it is greater, the bushes are a larger dia so the difference in bush separation won’t equate the same difference in gap between the forged eyes. The D2 arms are about 100mm longer so will improve geometry over the RRC/D1/Defender arms (and they actually articulate better even though more bush separation) . But with portals and bigger tyres Anti lift will still be very high. Id mount then below the chassis rail like the D2 regarding double calipers at front vs single at rear, it’s simply brake bias due to weight transfer. The later Defender had exactly double the piston area in front than rear.

Well I was going to mark out the rear tub (Series) wheel arch and cut it to form the Defender shape. But after asking a few of the local 110 guys with bigger tyres and negative offset rims if and where their tyres rub on the body work, it seems I will have to wait until im a roing chassis and can cross articulate my set up. With my wide track and 130 rims (+20.6mm offset) it puts me at the equivilant of -56.4mm offset (from +33). Even though ill only be running 255/85R16 as daily tyres, the arc the axles swing may well have them fowling before tucking inside. Also looking at the Series vs Defender, it seems their wheel wells are pretty much the same height but the Defender arch is much higher, only ~15mm below the wells at peak of arch. Given I will be making new wells, at least I can make them higher if need be. On to other things I guess

Good work Monkie, something I will have to tackle on my build at some point. Did you just use your old looms to get the lengths for each section? Mine is a 98 110, But Im thinking of running the TD5 led warning light set up and digital speedo signal. And thanks to those that added the links to the Factory wiring diagrams.

ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points.

If you go back to page 2, you will see my rear tub is picked apart, waiting to be modified to suit my application. It is just a standard Series11a LWB tub. I will have to reposition/reprofile the wheel openings first, then shorten front and rear to suit. It will be assembled the same way LR have done it, though my wheel wells may be a touch higher, the lower floor may be a touch narrower.... And it will be mounted the same way LR mount their tubs, that is, to the rear cross member, rear bulkhead outriggers and load bear on the chassis points. I might be using the Defender rear Bulkhead with all the other series bits? Floor and wheel wells will be new aluminium as they are simple flat/folded sections. I will be buying some new bits and pieces out of the UK from YRM (unless someone has a better source). Not sure if I will use solid rivets, but all "pop" style rivets will be structural "CherryMax" style rivets.

I bought a new pintle , found some safety chain clevis pin and blocks from a Perenti and have done a little more design work on my rear cross member. I also picked up the parts from the electroplaters.

Don’t worry, I’ll be using exterior wood glue... I like the 110 wheelbase. Wheelbase/chassis extensions are common here with Toyota 79/200 series. Usually 300mm. I like the size of the 110. I know the 90 is seen as the off roader and the 110 as more a worker, but to me the 90 is too short, and not just for space. LR should have pushed it to 100” in the 2000’s

It would be interesting to see the profile of the super duty axles, im guessing only be 10xx material but probably forged and in the dia you will have, most likely fine.

Interestingly LR (as you will know) went back to a fabricated housing, driven partly by MOD vehicles bending/breaking rear Sals housings. I think the main reason the SIII got the Sals standard in 109s was due to differential not housing failures. I’m sure there was conversations between LR and their supplier (Dana Hardy Spicer/GKN what ever guise it was at the time) and that’s what they could offer them in a here you go package) It has been known, and I have seen a few myself, for the Salisbury housing to fail where the tubes meet the cast centre section. Mostly on 109/110 housings (HD110/130 have thicker axle tubes) To me they just aren’t great housings (in general regardless of brands) , you can make a Rover housing stronger (when talking end to end) easier and lighter than a Sals, and the Sals offers nothing but a differential upgrade over Rover stuff, and regardless of shaving will not get the same clearance. I will add however I would think the Sals centre section better at taking a explosive blast and they are probably good for that roll.

Some of the so called Made in the USA crown wheel & pinions are not actually made there ...

Some of their products are still made by M R Automotive in Redcliffe, Queensland. Warren, one of the owners is a long time friend and customer of the original MaxiDrive. They make axles, drive flanges, track rods, drag links , A frame ball joints , LT230 low range gears and some other bits. The diff locks are not being made but I already had those parts.

I got a few little things done of late. I managed to get up to Maxidrive and order my new axle shafts for front housing. Ill also be getting them to custom make some drive flanges. I finished the drag link and track rod tapping and slitting. The small groove indicates the left hand thread. They will be electro plated. I also picked up a Series drop down tail gate (my tub didnt come with one). And Ive started the drawings for my rear cross member. I still have to sort our trailer chain lugs, recovery points and jack hole locations. Ill get the main C section laser cut and folded for this. Most things I cut by hand but this is one Ill farm out. I should probably buy the new pintle to make sure bolt centres are the same as my old flogged out one. shipping is going to suck.

150-200mm. I would like to shorten it more, but everything is a compromise. As for necessary, nothing is, but thats not the point is it 😉... and the packaging, well ill also need to find space for hydraulic oil reservior, solenoid control valve, pressure relief, inline filter among some other goodies as well.. 😄

Unfortunately the rear bulkhead is literally just in front of the new A frame cross member. No one ever accused me of taking the easy road 😂😂

I had thought about that but kind of ruled it out due to a few reasons. First, I still have to check with the engineer If sill tanks are legal (being outboard the chassis structure) , secondly given the changes to suspension and body mounts, and links it may not fit without a lot of work. Thirdly, pre Td5 90s (and even then Td5 90s were only a couple years and very rare) were never sold in Australia so I would have to import a tank. If I can have a sill tank I’ll probably make it my secondary, fabricate it out of Aluminium and have its cross section triangle shape so it slopes up from chassis rail to sill. Hows does yours go for bottoming out given longer wheelbase?

pages 2,3 and 4 Ive already discussed that it is common here in Oz and that ive had it done.

Yes I had found your thread and read through it, Thanks. Good temp drop on your 200Tdi 110 with front mount.

I hope you are not suggesting this for me.....

Thanks, I had figured as much. And even worse the coolant hose layout for Td5 vs 300Tdi. I had heard of someone fitting a D2 Td5 radiator into a D1 300Tdi so figured Id ask.

Given the water pump is on the other side, and the 300Tdi 200mm/8" closer to the radiator it is a pain in the butt and doesn't fill me with confidence. I can get a wider tank made here with the inlet/outlet on the correct side for my engine. Custom hoses would need to be made, but I dont have to worry about clearance issues.

Thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. Given the differences in 200Tdi to 300Tdi and then to 2.8 Tgv, I think its still inconclusive. TBH I was really interested in seeing the plumbing set up for the 300Tdi. I really wish LR didn't change the set up from the 200Tdi (I feel it was noticeably better). While ill probably run an off the shelf front mount IC I will be working with an Australian company to build my radiator (copper). Ill have to look for your IC thread, and good luck with the M57, they seem to be a good engine choice for our LRs. 👍 I should have also added Im not a fan of Evans waterless coolant. I had asked a mate about it previously and feeback was its basically pure glycol, less thermal conductivity than water/glycol mix, more viscous than water....

Thanks. I have seen a few 110s on Instagram with extended cabs and short over hang (90 style). Unfortunately they have the fuel tank in the tub and that is just impractical for my needs, so my rear overhang will be more than 90 less than 110. I am yet to see a extended cab with longer doors. Most I see do not even move the rear bulkhead and seat base. To me this is not really achieving much. I wanted more legroom, secondly, when driving my shoulder is against the window frame, making it roll forward a bit (not good for shoulders that are already bad) and unless its raining the window is always down so arm can have room. Thirdly my temple is directly inline with the seatbelt bolt at B pillar. Doing what most do would also create a massive blind spot in vision. So longer doors it is. I dont intend on moving my seat back 200mm but wanted the door frame further back than my location. I may have to put a slight bend in the gear lever arm, but most other ergonomics should be ok.

The problem that was pointed out to me was that it is not pure shear on the joint, its a bending moment (hinge joint is how I visualise it being a carpenter). So that changes the dynamics of potential failure as all 7 bolts are not in tension or shear. This being the case, the spigot on the spacer (going into rebate in axle housing flange) is not doing much. But at the end of the day, run what you are comfortable with. Im definitely envious of your lesser weight. A horse probably more agreeable than my Tdi's have been 😅 Unfortunaltly the budget doesn't stretch to a M57 or LS(or later) ....so stick with the Tdi 😬 At axle housing end, due to welding, a O ring was unable to be used. I should only need sealant on the studs (as long as welds dont leak). On the swivel ball end, given the size of the swivel spigot, chamfer seemed the way to go and easiest to machine. hopefully it works. Which ever way you go, if you can avoid any gasket material at axle housing joint, the better structurally.

That would be great. Try and control conditions as much as possible to keep same for each vehicle.

And one of a crude mock up of rear tub. Cab is getting extended approximately 200mm, rear overhang shortened 150-200mm. Im moving the rear bulkhead back and making longer doors, floors, roof etc. Doors will be Series style. The tub is a SIIA 109, Truck Cab 110s do not exist in Australia and Hardtop 110s are very rare. I have pulled most of the tub apart. Obviously I'll have to re profile the wheel arches (I was lucky a local guy had his eyebrows/flares off his 110 Perenti, So I took an outline on some plywood.) Rear fuel tank capacity will be reduced of course, maybe I can supplement it with a custom sill tank.