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uninformed

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Everything posted by uninformed

  1. Yes perfect . It gives me a point of reference. Thanks
  2. @Gazzar looks like the measurement is approximately 210mm can I trouble you for a measurement on your vehicle. From tub front edge/fold to axle centreline. And IYO how central is the axle/wheel in the arch?
  3. Unfortuneatly I dont have the time to do the build thread here. This forum is not phone friendly and even jinky on my computer and that means double the work. Instagram is very easy and quick for me and given im spending most my non working time on my LR I made the decision to keep it to instagram only. I was on multiple LR forums for years but most have dropped off with real tech last few years IMO. You dont have to be a member on instagram or have it on your phone, you can google "Kustom110 Instagram"
  4. I will be reducing the rear overhang. I am lengthening the truck cab, longer doors. I do not have a rear tub as my Defender is a Cab Chassis My intentions are to use a Series rear tub (LWB hardtop). I will need to shorten the distance from the trailing edge of the door (front edge of tub) to the wheel arch. I will need to shorten the rear of the tub from the wheel arch to rear end. again, all im after is the measurement from the door edge (front edge of tub) to the rear edge of the SIDE FILLER (the type close to the door)
  5. 90s are not common in Oz and their, along with all LR parts are $$$ these days. My rear overhang will be longer than SWB but shorter the LWB. Underseat tank wont work I dont think as I have made longer trailing and radius arms and new mounts accordingly build is on Instagram - Kustom110 (if not on insta just google "kustom110 instagram")
  6. Ok I wasn’t aware of that. Maybe I was looking at S11 and SIIAs?? I still need the measurement of the type with fuel filler close to door. Im custom building a 110 with longer cab and shorter rear overhang.
  7. Thanks very much @Gazzar Is that a Stage 1? all the LWB tubs ive seen over here (Australia) except Stage 1 have the fuel filler about 8 inches behind the door. And I just realised I should have specified LWB Hardtop tub. So im looking for the measurement of the type that has the filler close to door. cheers Serg
  8. Hey all, Im doing a custom build. Im after a measurement from the front edge of the tub (where it meets the door) to the rear edge of the fuel filler hole. cheers Serg
  9. Thanks again David, yes, SIII Stage 1 V8 swivel housing , but in a custom axle application. I need my bolts for swivel seal retainer to be 5mm longer than stock. If they were 1/2, 3/4 may sufice, but if they are 5/8, ill need 7/8 (probably have to buy 1") https://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/prod_2445609-250693-Screw-Hex-Head-BSF-x-long-Retainer-Swivel-Housing-Oil-Seal.html the above lists as 1/2" , I bought aftermarket and they came at 5/8"......
  10. I dont have the swivel housings or original bolts with me. But am preparing for a custom axle build. I had searched the web and got 1/4 x 1/2 , but was supplied oem aftermarket at 1/4 x 5/8. I need my bolts to be approx 5mm longer ... but obviously I dont want them going to far inside.
  11. Hello all, Im trying to find out the actual length of a factory bolt (not oem aftermarket as they may not be the same) part# 250693. It is the little 1/4 BSF bolt that hold the swivel seal retaining ring in place. cheers Serg
  12. Thanks again David, Ill look up Namrick. Yes I had seen and used the parts code break down, but many of the fastner P/Ns are just 6 digits, so no break down for them. There are a couple of British fastener suppliers in Aus, but their range quite limited, but it seems that is the case for the world lol.
  13. Thank you, ill check them out. Ive done more than my fair share of web seaching part numbers from SIII, RRC (early) early 110/90 and stage 1 V8s for bolts, and then looking for thread/length description. I figured the series forum-ites have more experience with BSF BSW as LR continued on with them right to the stage 1 V8, where as even the early RRC axle assemblies didnt use them... except for the two holes in the bottom of the diff nose, that never changed from BSF But I also do custom stuff that requires British threads but in non standard legths so am looking for a shop that sells known brand/quality
  14. I am aware of the different grading systems for Metric, British and Unified. I was also under the impression that good quality high tensile socket head cap screws, regardless of thread form, would be 12.9, but maybe thats just Unbrako? Im sure all the NOS (new old stock) BSF BSW bolts and screws (for some reason a fully threaded bolt is a screw) are marked with their apropriate letters, but what about new manufactured stuff? Ive seen plenty of 8.8 (Metric) stamped and advertised BSF stuff on ebay. Is that just junk made ? regardless mine have no markings what so ever. and since my original question was not answered,where do you buy good quality bolts from?
  15. Hi all, where do you UK guys and girls buy good quality bolts from?? Specifically BSF, BSW. I tried finding BSF socket head cap screws and ended up buying from ebay. They finally got here (Australia) ad not a single marking on any of them (60) and ment to be 12.9... there was clearly 4 different made ones in that batch all the same size.
  16. Hi Joris, yes, I clicked on everything I could lol. Best I can do is google the part number and hope the specs are listed other than just bolt etc. I havent been able to detect a code in them yet 237357 - 7/16 x 1 3/8 BSF king pin bolt 237339 - 3/8 x 1 BSF Stub axle bolt 279146 3/8 x 1 7/8 UNF (unsure of length) Drive flange bolt 538802 3/8 x ?? UNF Disc rotor to hub bolt I assume they would all be high tensile in those applications
  17. Thanks J, alas I was hoping for a break down of the old 6 number codes. All good
  18. Hey all, Im pretty sure I saw it here on LR4x4, it was a break down to the code/part numbers for LR bolts. It enabled us to figure out thread, length head type etc. I searched but could not find it cheers Serg
  19. So after wire brushing I can’t find the serial number on my front axle housing. 98 110 with black swivel balls vin WA174xxx looking for the swivel seal. Appears to be two different ones for my vintage but axle serial number is the change over. I wonder if it’s got to do with chrome vs black Teflon swivel balls?
  20. Where abouts is the serial number on the front axle housing in a defender? It looks like some parts numbers are serial number dependant?
  21. Sorry I can only add speculation at this point, or rather more confusion. But I did somewhat bolt up a early 110 front stub (wide bearing ) and matching hub with my 98 300Tdi 110 Vented rotor to the car itself ( 98 110) and it all seemed to line up and not foul. If I get time over the next week ill look into it further. All parts I have are genuine (except rotors) Serg
  22. Thanks. Im not that computer savy, so it may be my computer or its settings, but that sight doesnt work so great for me. It will open some things and not others. I got to the Disco 1 section, brakes and then into calipers rotors etc, but couldnt open to see the part numbers. Im trying to figure out which pad retaining system my calipers use? D1 fronts, solid rotor, but no idea of age etc.
  23. Hey all, any links to a disco 1 parts manual? cheers Serg
  24. I think you may be looking at the swivel ball to axle housing bolts. (those part numbers I can see in the SIII parts catalogue in the axle section but are shown with the swivel ball.) Im looking for stub axle to swivel housing.
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