uninformed

dont forget that the MD crawler gears are available in either 30% or 49% lower low range.

here you are Bill

Designed for one brand of 11 inch dampener maybe. There are so many different length shocks in one travel size, that doing the reasearch can lead to finding a shock that will work. For example, the lengths on Bilstein 7100 and 9100 (both standard or short body, just compare same) both in say a 12 inch shock. Both are from Bilstein USA, both have the same travel yet the 7100 is much shorter.

Hey all, it has been posted on another forum that the early 110s, i.e. 1985-87, with load leveller had a longer ball joint at the rear axle housing to A frame. I have never seen this anywhere before and cant get any specifics from the owner. He is 100% but does not like being asked for pics or part numbers etc.... I have confirmed he is talking about the actual ball joint and not the bracketry.

Post #105

Jeff, I mean like plumbers fittings, that when done up with a wrench compress on the tube. Usually you slip on a hollow nut, then a "olive" then the fitting. DO the nut up on the fitting and it seals againt the olive and the olive beds into the tube.

I could possibly give LRA a call and see if they note any difference when machining Genuine vs AM?

thanks guys. I certainly can not knock it as it has never given trouble for its intended purpose. As far as feild service of modifying, it sucks. JeffR, did you ever try external compression fittings?

IMO I would not waste money on reflectors and bulbs. The problem is not them, it is the wiring. I added better bulbs etc and the improvement was maginal at best. Later I installed a Traxide Headlight upgrade kit and that made the biggest difference of all. Even the original bulbs were much better than the old set up with better bulbs. http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/headlight-wiring-upgrade.html

thanks guys, Red90, ive found that most metal tube is sized OD and flexable hoses ID. I take it becasue the nylon is hard it is OD? Does it require a special barb end to seal on (ie. like the end that goes on to the sedimenter fitting) . LR have simply pushed it on with no hose clamp, and the ends look like a single barb, unlike the "pushfit" hoses by Aeroquip, Aeroflow etc that use a mulit barb for push on, no clamp. Along the LR nylon tube, at some point, I have to cut it, run a fitting for the new line to attach to. New line and fitting should not be a problem, I just want to make sure the new fitting going into the LR nylon tube will seal and not give trouble.

I agree, but will add with the likes of Timken and Corteco, that buying them in their own branded boxes seems every bit as good as buying them in genuine LR boxes. As with a lot of parts though, OEM is NOT genuine. This is where people either get it wrong or are confused. OEM simply stands for "Original Equipment Manufacture" but that does not automatcily mean they are the OEM of the part in your hand for the vehicle you are fixing. Sometimes it does, but many times it doesnt.

I Would have to disagree on the one manufacture for the swivel balls idea. If there are aftermarket companies making cheap CV joints, then a swivel ball is a no brainer (i.e. not as complex to make) There is a market there for them and many other parts that would be made by different companies.

Hey all, Can anyone tell me the ID of the stock LR Defender 110 300Tdi fuel line. I think it may be 5/16 but not sure. Im also thinking since it is so hard that if I pull it off the barb at the sedimenter that it wont seal when pushed back on. cheers Serg

@ Mr Noisy, re your post #91, I take it the new swivel balls on that Disco were NOT genuine? Also I think it is important to state the difference between Genuine and OEM. I hav found that for a product to be branded OEM, only means that that company making said product has to make a product (any) for the auto industry. That is to say, company X may make part A for companies like LR but get to sell part B as OEM even though they do not make part B for any auto manufactures. Then of coarse there are the parts that are not even sold as OEM...they tend to be the carp. I have a new pair of these sitting on my work bench : http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Axle/Drive-Shafts,Hubs-&-Swivels/frc7065-swivel-housing-dstep-oem.html All I can say is the company that machines them for castor rotation says they are F hard... I hope they are not these carp dangerous items. Ill have to dig a little deeper before I run them as mine is a daily driver towing up to 2 tonne...

Looks like just globes. No way was I waisting money on my crappy LR fittings and cracked, faded lenses. From everything I can gather, the new complete LED units (either Wipac or RDX) are better built all round, sealed unit meaning more water proof.

I guess there is only one way to find out...

FWIW my WSM states 60ft/lb or 82Nm for the caliper mounting bolts.

this link may help. I used the info on it to double check calipers I had that were unkown to me. http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d7648.html

Ok, I just edited my profile to add my location No MOT here, and my trailer light has not worked for many years. The OEM LR flasher relay failed early on. When we looked at it, it looked like something from a doctor who tv prop. My be a good concept, but very poorly made. Infact, in summer here, you pretty much can not see the warning lights on the dash in the day time. Poor design and tiddle poor globes/electrics make sure of that...any way, I digress. Id like to keep it simple. Will the Wipac unit make the new LED indicators work, along with the standard bulb type in the rear. I also tow and my trailer has LED lights... If the RDX unit is simply better quality, im happy to go that way. Are the RDX lights better quality than the Wipac?

Hey all, sorry if this has been covered already. A few questions: Is there any difference between Wipac S6060LED : http://www.wipac-aftermarket.com/acatalog/Side_Rear_Fog.html and Wipac AMR6514LED : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-WIPAC-LED-FRONT-SIDE-LIGHT-73mm-AMR6514LED-/261325720866 Regarding installing indicators in LED, I see I have to change the flasher relay? Is the Wipac unit ok or do I believe the info in the following ebay link and only buy RDX? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390722018504?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 cheers Serg

Pic #3 looks a little close to the t/stat housing. Remember that gearbox is going to be moving back and forth/side to side, while the body work isnt. If you get on rough roads, you would be suprised how much they move.

ummm I think you will find the gearbox and T/case in a 200Tdi is in a VERY similar postion to the 300Tdi….rather a large difference in engine location for and aft between the 2 though.

No worries, here to help.

Thanks mate

1/2 UNF