stageonesimmo

The SNATCH stuff is there for its suppression qualities, its 'waterproofness' is a by-product of the design, but as its more or less an accident, its ability to actually keep water out is next to zero and once it gets in there it cant easily get back out...... Could be worth some folding to the right person, but I doubt the market is that large as most prefer the polybag method...

Stevie, I can have a look about at work and see if we have any bumf on that damper type or some new stickers for it...... - the 'X' in the no 10 box is the 'Modification State' (or MOD state for short), for the damper assembly - if improvements are made after it is procured it is common for them to be withdrawn from stock, modified, stamped as such and put back into stock, or its often done when the unit is overhauled after being returned through the stores system. Not much use to you, but hey, you asked!

Sounds like it'll be SNATCH 1 or 1.5 kit, as yes, all WOLF are 300TDi. There cant be many 101 bits like that knocking about now, plus SNATCH are often mis-identified as WOLF - I even had to point it out to LROi once! Like above - unless you need it don't bother - it'll be a pig when wet

you've only gone and pulled the top off the horn push! Best way to do it is to get a blunt flat blade screwdriver and push it into the side of whats left at a 45 degree angle to the face of the horn and gently prise the thing toward you, a bit will 'pop' over the lip of the horn push, just follow that round with the driver till it comes out or lever it onto its side and pull it out. Then disconnect the wire and off you go. Don't be scared to get rough with it as the foam of the wheel is pretty strong and will take it - mines been out countless times now and you wouldn't be able to tell looking at it. Its just a case then of un-doing the nut a couple of turns and waggling the wheel - loosen the wheel first or it can come free suddenly and smack you in the grinner if you take the nut all the way off to start with - do not ask how I know that! [edit] To put it back just reconnect the wire and push it into place - needs a firm even pressure then maybe a bit of screw driver action to centralize it. [edit]

Tricky, The solenoid has holes in it where water can get in wreak havoc - the mounting screws, the cable grommets etc. Take the motor off, take off the solenoid - nowt too it, not at all scary to do, give it all a good clean out and get rid of all the grit and water that may well be in there, then when you re-build it seal all the mating faces, holes, grommets etc with silicon sealer to keep it nice and dry...........

Had G90's on my company cars for years now - don't know about them being noisy - not noticed that, mind you I was used to XCL/ZXL so I may already be deaf to it. In the wet G90s are horrible especially under braking (think 110 FFR and Trl Lwt full of kit and the normal stopping distance, then at least double it) Out of all the above I'd go for ZXLs every time - excellent tyre all round. I've currently got BFGs on the Disco and swear by 'em so I'd be with everyone else and say save your money and give it to BFG.........

Trogers is on the right route for me - I cant see the relation between it getting wet and the spider playing up, (it lives behind the dash in the warm, dry cab for a start),. My spider was playing up and it would do with NO pattern at all - it was the starter side of the thing that was playing up and a re-solder cured it, but this is different. Seems to me that its water in the starter solenoid through a bad seal/grommet or its the engine earth braid breaking down which can get worse when wet (shouldn't really as water conducts) I'd go for a jump lead from block to battery neg post next time it happens - if it fires up then its the earth, if it doesn't whip the starter off and have a peek in the solenoid then clean it and seal the thing with silicaset.......... By all means invest in a by-pass plug, but I wouldn't go ripping the dash apart just yet - why remove a perfectly servicable anti-theft device before you've exhausted everything else?.... edited to cure wonky spelling.

Push down and twist in either direction until it locks down. Same to take off, but some will pop-up on their own when you go forward again - not sure for definite if they are meant to do that, but they do Main problem is usually that the draught eye isn't all the way out - it needs to be for the lock to work - it cant engage if the eye is pushed in over about 1/2" from memory - can look up the details in the AESP tomorrow at work if you get stuck, may even have a new sticker lying about - what type of damper is it (thats important as there a millions of trl/damper combinations over the years) Bri

I would disagree with the fact that blocking/removing the EGR even when working makes no difference. The EGR vents exhaust gas back into the inlet tract - that very exhaust gas is used to power the turbo. The EGR vents the gas back into the inlet at the very time its needed to cut NOX - thats also the very time you have your foot down hard on the loud pedal and you want full boost. So it robs the turbine side of power when you need it and it also dumps hot exhaust gas back into the inlet down-stream of the intercooler which serves to heat the charge air back up again loosing density as it does so, robbing you of power in the process. So I'd reckon that adding all of that lot up, you should notice a slight difference - I know I did and there was nowt wrong with my EGR when I removed it completely 3 years ago......... Still these are landrovers we're on about - anythings possible eh?

Nah, surely the step before that is an up-rated heater matrix and a scoopy vent thing on the wing? Dam sight cheaper as well..... Actually, first step for me would be to pull the hoses off the heater matrix and back-flush it with a hose pipe on full blast - you'll be amazed at the amount of crud that will have collected in there as the matrix has a kind of cyclone effect and it dumps slit at the bottom eventually choking it off all-together...... I'd be doing that first........

But dont have them BOTH rotating as thats just as bad! There should be a warning plate on the top of the damper that says 'warning fixed eye - prime mover pintle must be free to rotate' Have a dig at the paint to see if it's under there. I may even have a spare one lying about in case someone borrows your trailer and forgets..... Reason I say that is it may be possible to get a sankey with a fixed eye - there have been so many different dampers put on them over the years its hard to keep track........

There are issues with the braking system and the nose-down attitude of the trailer that make it dodgy to tow at anything above 55-60 (from experience), hence the replacement of them with the new trl Lightweight. Which is also shoite in the braking department...........

I answered this today at work but then things went mental so it may appear twice....... Back in the good ole days, out in Germany, just after I wrote off the first 90 Defender to reach the Regt by shunting it into a tree on guard, we got the next batch of 90's - all with KG VRNs. They were special - they had a newer engine - the Mk6 B (all it was was a 19J with the engine breather system tweaked a bit) disc brakes on the rear axle as opposed to drums and they had some of the pioneer tool stowage moved to the roof rear panel above the door. But the best bit was the loverly squashy steering wheel like the civvy defenders got (only they got a 300TDi which we couldn't afford at the time as the Russians were coming) to replace the hideous 4-spoke thing the others had. Other than that nowt much was changed. Any other differences would depend on the unit/theater it went into first off, but unless it was something really special, then a Rover was pretty much a rover in those days as all of the specials tended to be very role specific.

Fair points Paintdude, but surely there's be a very noticeable vibration at all times with a damaged spigot or bent main? I'm still not convinced that its NOT out of difflock - I cant think of anything else that would cause the symptoms (its mainly the 'tension' comment thats niggling me as all other stuff would just give a very shaky truck or very rough changes....) I'm off to ponder.......

The KG bit means it was issued with a 'soft' 2-spoke steering wheel as in the 300 TDi defenders, (as opposed to the hideaous 4-spoke plastic thing on the others), (but unfortunately without the 300TDi as the MoD were too cheap at the time to buy any), it also should have disc brakes on the rear axle as opposed to drums. It will also have had the Mk6b version of the 19J engine fitted - which all earlier ones were up-graded to later as they failed - its only a different engine breather set-up so no big deal really. If it was a hard-top some of the pioneer kit stowage will be above the back door, other than that, same as all the other 90's about at the time. Thats from my failing memory of the first batch of KG's arriving at my unit out in germany at the time.....

JST - the near-side inlet is blanked but none of the trunking/connectors are removed. The off-side has the outer cover removed (and binned) and the snorkel fitted to that. Soooo, there may be a few off-side outer covers knockiing about, but none of the other stuff as it all stays in place...... Well, thats how it is with all the we've I've fitted anyway.....