stageonesimmo

Mmmm, difficult one - the way this is overcome on the 'real' WOLF is that the wading plug hole is not used - its cast into the timing chest, but not drilled out, there is then a pipe attached to the top of the chest that is actually fed from the same pipe that sends boost to the FIP fuel stop pin - this provides a slight positive pressure in the timing chest (I say slight as the banjo bolt supplying the pressure to the chest is filled with a sintered brass insert which acts as a restrictor allowing only a tiny portion of the boost pressure into the timing chest.) From looking at mine - which has a normal 12V alt in the same place as yours using the same belt configuration, I'd say that raceface120 is spot on in that the easiest way of doing it is to mount some form of adapter in the adjuster, possibly utilising the square drive hole used for adjusting the belt tesnion - its how I would do it, using some quick release air couplings we have lying about at work that are the same size as the pipe in question, though I have to admit to not having looked at this one yet as its way down on my list! I'd be interested in seeing how you've done yours raceface120 - and I take it from your log-in your a mountian biker?

I just banged mine on the very front of it using the fairlead mount holes for now as I've not made my mind up what winch I want yet - I sized it up and the sidey bits from the tray outwards taper too much to mount a reg plate on there - I was toying with the idea of mounting it up in the grille - but the bumper is so close fitting that most of the grille will have to go to make way for the winch. So, I'd be interested in any solutions anyone has come up with as well - for when I get my winch in there!

Its fed from the 'W' terminal and on 300TDi's its a white wire with a grey trace - dunno what colour it is on the 200. The alt should be marked with a W though.

Having seen some good pictures of the D44 to compare I now am very glad I went for the gold-digger - its more or less the same thing for a lot cheaper - BUT - the recovery swivels are just that - swivels - big bonus over static in my book and the D44 doesn't appear to have hi-lift points - or if it does come with them they'll be extra. Plus GD do a steering guard to match for not much more cash that looks more or less the same as the D44. In your boat I'd be saving my money, getting a GD then buying a plasma..........

I'll second that - the centre diff blew itself up on my Stage One at one point and the symptoms would come and go - then when I finally stripped it I found out why - a massive chunk of one of the planet gears was roaming about getting stuck in a hole in the diff case every now and then giving me drive back then it would move and I'd loose drive again - it drove me mad until I finally found out what it was!

Yep, hence needing to pull the centre diff out and replace it - IF it's that thats broken it may have chomped a CV joint as they hate being stuck in difflock as well - difficult to say really - you need to get the switch fixed and get it out of diff-lock for 100% certain first then go from there......

Nah you can just pull the centre diff out and re-build it, bit of a pain to do but can be done on your back on the drive if you need to...........

Having not seen one up close I cant really comment, BUT, looking at mine I cant see where you could make £200 of improvements? and like you say - that'd be the rope paid for...........

I'm going with the diff-lock theory as well - may explain why it was disconnected when you bought it?

Just put a Gold Digger 4X4 bumper on mine at the weekend and I'm well impressed with the product and the service - Carl is the first to admit he's only a small firm - but thats why I gave him my money. The fit and finish of the kit is excellent and it looks the mutts!

It was with the change over from 200-300Tdi that it all changed, yes, I know it had nowt to do with the mil kit as they still retianed the 19J, or Mk6B as we call it, but the production line muat have had changes made, such as the disc braked rear axles so they tinkered about with other stuff as well.. This coincided with the change from KF/KL Mil reg nos to KJ onwards - the KF&KL had the pick head, helve and shovel on the door or tailgate, KJs had them on the roof (pick head) and the rest on the door for hard-tops or all 3 on the tail gate for soft-tops. Well, as far as my Dortmunder kronen adlled mind of the time can recall anyways........ TBH units sometimes moved kit about anyways if say a door or hard-top got trashed in an RTI or some such, so there are, as always, loads of permutaions and nothing of this sort is 'fixed' as its not something our inspectors get obsessive about - as long as the kit is secureed safely it could end up where ever the hell you wanted.......... Take a recent RTI on a 110 XD - it needed new wings so the lad marked up all the mounts for the pick head holder and stuff and drilled away - then fitted the wings and realised he'd put the thing on the wrong wing - its still there as there's nowt wrong with where it is........... Most folk doing a restoration will put a level of effort into the details that is NEVER used while the truck is in service - we just dont have the time to say, paint it exactly to the AESP or mount the pick head holder to within 0.5mm of where it should be - we just slap the paint on or drill some holes in roughly the right place - lazy?, possibly, necessary? Totally!

sotal - yeah knew that bit - hence my first post, the EDC bit was news to me though, just forgot to to say it correctly!

Even if you dont get it sorted, at least I've learned you dont need the guts in the FCOS! Still learning!

If you take out the plunger and spring from the FIP fuel cut off solenoid the engine WILL NOT stop on the key as that's exactly what the plunger and spring is there for - if you take it out you have to stall the engine to stop it. Which on an auto may be a might tricky? - dunno, never owned one as I'm not lazy. Off to read the other thread and comment more later.........

Meaning they would have also easily undone themselves while you were driving the thing! My advice is to NEVER put copper grease on the caliper mounting bolts - use a good thread locking compund (as heavily recommended by LR in the manual) only or leave them dry and in either case make sure they done up to the correct torque figure - the amount of LR I've seen at work with detached calipers has taught me this lesson - its a very simple thing to get wrong and can cause untold destruction if it goes into worst case scenario. Pleased to see the job went well Tom, big snug grin on your face now I bet and a few pounds left in the bank as well!

Is it a gen part rad you've got? Reason I ask is that a lot of places are doing a patern part that has different oil cooler pipe connections - if you get one of those expect to have leaking oil pipes for a very long time untill you finally get it sorted - there's a whole host of problems related to them - postitioning - they are further apart and so dont allow the fitting of the clamp to keep the pipes steady, then the connectors themselves are the wrong internal diameter and are a sloppy fit, combine this with the lack of a clamp and the pipes move and eat through the 'O' rings very quickly (as I found out as mine dumped the contents of the sump on the A66 the other week!). I've solved it now but it was a painfull couple of weeks and I'm still not confident in the things and so check under the bonnet every stop! - not some thing you want to be worrying about on a trip like you have planned! So, I hope the rad you have is a gen parts one!

Yes indeed it is.

Heres mine: Loads done to it, more to do.

WOLF dont have bonnet catches of that type fitted - they rely simply on the normal centre bonnet catch. Military defenders (pre WOLF, 90/110) did have exactly the same catches as those you linked to so they are authentic enough and they are actually a good pair as they have the brass ends.

Guys, sorry for the delay - work interupting life again........ The stays I have are the original 'safety devices' ones and so are genuine XD fitment. The critical dimensions are: overall length: approx 850 mm mount hole diameter: 13mm dist between centres for mount holes: 810mm tube thickness: 3mm tube diameter: 40mm ends flatened to minimum of 45mm. I can provide some photos if needed. All dimensions are approximate due to the flatening of the ends etc. Again, sorry for the delay and I hope that's helped!

Mmmm, genuine parts for me for water pumps. I use Dayco belts and have used loads of the main names for the idlers/pulleys etc as they are all much of a muchness. There will now be a load of posts decrying Dayco belts but also some others that will explain the suffix/prefix to part numbers and what they mean so you can check what you're getting for your money - I think 'G' at the end of the number is good, (G for Genuine), and nothing at all is bad?........

Did mine yesterday with the same symptoms - took it all apart to be confronted by a sound looking spring. B@lls thinks I, think again. So I decided to change the spring anyway as I had a new one lying about, (scrap-yards are great - most GM cars have the same lock but with different lever arrangements - the spring is the same and if you have a small conscience, free). Fortunately once free of the lock it fell into 3 bits. So I'd reckon its 99% certain to be the spring. Be prepared to break all of the clips holding the back door trim panel on - I did, so I binned it and made a new one out of shiny aluminum cos I could!

Cant remember the figures off the top of my head for the flange play so wont quote any old rubbish just in case - i can get them at the weekend if still needed. As for the ARB/prop issue - are you running a lift? If you are then its advisable to space the ARB back down again to the its normal angle by fitting spacers between the bushes and the mounts on the chassis - they should be the same depth as the lift you fitted and will stop them going 'over-centre' at the knuckle joints on the axles and should prolly cure the rubbing problem as well I'd reckon........... Some simple bits of box steel the same width as the mounts and the same depth as the lift with holes drilled to suit the bolt pattern of the bush clamps and off you go - with either more bolts or long ones that will go through bush plate, spacer and mount

Another job on the list for me this weekend - the bottom intercooler hose has a nick in it and is quietly whistling away to itself - I say itself as I refuse to listen to it.

BearMach +1.5" springs and procomp es 9000 shocks. No other stuff other than polybush anti-roll bar bushes at the rear as I tend to carry some heavy kit at times on forest roads. No winch as yet but when it comes I may well go for a +2" set of springs and keep the shocks but on drop plates as opposed to the standard ones as fitted now.