Pyrover

Might be worth emailing the organiser as they may have a list of shops that were there.

Do you have the old series type cap then or the newer plastic type, if the latter then I won't bother upgrading if thats gonna p**s out everywhere as well.

I assume the one in the photos is just a combined pump/vacuum pump as there seems to be two cylinders (one either side), the left hand one seems to have no lines attached so could possibly be the pump side (running a locker?), I have something similar in the garage which came off a piece of medical kit, the back half would appear to be just a motor. The bloke says it's a compressor so I also assume (and the air lines to the trailer seem to back this up) that it's just a standard air braked system. Would have thought that it uses an electrical actuator operated from the brake pedal and handbrake. If your interested in fitting coupled brakes it might be worth also looking at electric braking; not sure if it's cheaper but seems to be a damn site easier to come by. Check out the following for an explanation. http://www.etrailer.com/faq/brakecontrol.asp HTH. M@

I take it you've never driven around Devon....!!

I looked into this not long back when I posted a towing query, found the following pics: http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Camper_Trailers.htm Not sure if it's OEM fit or an aftermarket jobby, dosn't really tell you to much about it.

Thanks Les, that's a top suggestion. M@

From the sounds of it some Diesels have been affected as well, although it would seem not in the same numbers. That would indicate that it's not bio-ethanol related then...?

Not sure if this is what you are looking for? http://www.techwebasto.com/heater_main/hea...ooting_Tree.pdf

Could someone help clear this up for me. I currently have an 1985 110 2.5NA which started out life as a 2.25P and am getting sick to death of it spewing out Diesel from the filler cap when the tank is more than half full (sorry all of those who have bikes ). According to microcat both the petrol and Diesel from AA onwards (mine being BA) should have the plastic locking cap type (RTC4740 vented or RTC4740 non-vented), however I seem to have an old series type pressed steel, 3-lug one? What I would like to know are:- 1) Do you think the series cap is original fit or a replacement when the conversion was done? 2) Can I just replace the cap with the later one or will I need to replace the whole damn system 3) What the hell is the difference between vented and non-vented, are vented for petrols and non-vented for Diesels? 4) If so to No 3 then could that be why my current cap is leaking, because it's vented? Thanks. M@

HOW FAR CAN I DRIVE TO THE TEST STATION? I am aware that a car that does not have a current MOT Certificate is not allowed to be used on the road except when going for repairs for a test, or to a prearranged test. Is there a milage limit as to how far a car can be driven without an MOT if it is going to a test centre - ie can one drive 40miles in the car if it to be to an MOT appointment with a garage? No there is no mileage limit. - MOT This came off of the following sites Q&A. http://www.motester.co.uk/mot-qanda3.html

I know, that's why I'm so bloody sceptical. You don't see any half-way decent companies advertising like that.

Just found this stuff as well HTS-2000 http://www.aluminiumrepair.co.uk/ Anyone?

Has anyone used this stuff in the repair of any panels? http://durafix.com/ Found a post to the manufacturer asking if it was suitable to use on Birmabrite; the answer of course was yes. I've always been skeptical of questions and answers on manufacturers websites as I'm never sure they are legitimate posts so thought I'd rather find out direct form someone who has first-hand experience of the stuff. Any takers?

Cheers for that. I assumed that it was a sealed box of some type not just as gaping hole with a door..! I think I might have a crack at nocking one up myself then if they are £130. Anyone got any pics of the inside? M@

Thanks. Found a phote of exactly what I want on their website so I assume it's one of their own. http://www.foleyspecialistvehicles.co.uk/gallery/14.jpg M@

Sorry I probably didn't make this clear, what I'm after is the cupboard thing which is imbeded in the side of the military 110's not just a basket for the jerrycans (I could knock one of those up myself).

First of all thanks to all those who offered there advice about towing, although it was not needed in the end (well at least not by me) as it was decided that my brother would do the towing instead. After some ribbing about whether my venerable old 110 (1985 2.5NA) would last the distance or whether it would be wiser to get a Beavertail instead of a trailer, I was snubbed in favour of the 300TDi Disco. As it turned out I would have the last laugh. Setting out early on Sunday the boys headed for Yeovil to pick up the car. Shortly after leaving home the Disco started to overheat, a quick top-up from a stream and they were once again on their way, problem solved or so they thought. As it turns out the water pump was goosed and before getting as far as Tiverton (about 8 AM) the Disco was on the verge of boiling over, having no choice they limped home. Having only hired the trailer for the weekend and with me now back down down in Plymouth they had to swap to the 200TDi 110; only problem was the 200TDi had no insurance, having been taken off the road to replace the doors, bulkhead and weld up the rear crossmember. Luckily only the crossmember had been done but the 110 had had the tow hitch removed when the work on the rear crossmember was carried out; so while one brother sorted out the insurance and knocked up a new numberplate for the trailer, the other fannied around fitting and rewiring the hitch. Having parked the Disco and trailer on a flat up the road from the garage (access to the garage is a bit of a mare with a trailer) they drove up to collect the trailer. Once hitched up they tested the lights to see if all was hunky-dory; sods law, all the electrics started to wig out. After beggering around with it for half an hour they had no choice but to drag the trailer back to the garage to test it. Eventually after much head scratching, cursing and tea drinking the problem was rectified and they were on there way again. Nearing Tiverton again and with the first signs of impending darkness showing (now about 4:30) they switched on the lights..POP! the fuse went, out went the lights. The one and only fuse they could find was rated twice what they needed, but it did the job anyway. Thankfully the fuse held out and more importantly the loom, for the rest of the journey to Yeovil. Unfortunately the boys now had to load up and pop their towing cherry in complete darkness but managed the return journy without any major dramas, except for a couple of close shaves on the back roads of north Devon. The moral of the story? The 7 P's

This has probably been covered before but I can't find a thread for it so hear it is again (Sorry). Does anyone know where I can get a jerrycan locker (wolf style) as a retrofit or failing that has anyone successfully made one? M@

Try and locate someone with a plasma cutter you can borrow/hire and you'll be able to cut that out no problem. I replaced my rear crossmember last spring and IMHO I would repair the one you've got as it dosn't look in too bad a nick; in the long run it will be easier, cheaper, and will be alot sturdier than a replacement one. M@

Welcome fellow Janner. If you want some advice on greenlaning, etc around the Plymouth area you may want to get in contact Cornwall and Devon Land Rover Club: http://www.kourgath.demon.co.uk/cdlrc.html If I remember rightly they get in the Chipshop Inn, Gulworthy near Tavistock so are not to far away from you. M@

Not sure if these are any good for what you want, but take a look at: http://www.specialty-fasteners.co.uk/ Under the quick release section you will find both push turn and 1/4 turn fasteners.

Just been looking in the Military section as bobcat has posted a towing question for the 3/4 tonne Sankey trailer, in reply b101uk said:- As for initial trailer set-up when connected to the towing vehicle, a single axel trailer should on level ground be in a slight nose down position from horizontal >2deg to <5deg, this is so under sever braking it dose not unload the rear axel of the towing vehicle, with twin axel centre line trailers they should be set on level ground between horizontal (0deg) and 1deg nose down, no trailer should ever be nose up! This seems to contradict what you are saying about never below horizontal. Surely if you brake with the nose below horizontal the trailer will push down on the hitch forcing the back of the vehicle down, if it were above horizontal the reverse would happen and raise the back of the vehicle? So which one of you is right?

Cheers guys. Didn't realise that the over-run brakes were a completely seperate braking system, I assumed that they were hydraulically conected to the towing vehicle and that you needed special plumbing to use the trailer (D'oh!). Found a nice animation of how they work at the site below for all those like dumb-ass here who didn't know. http://www.kfz-tech.de/Engl/AuflBremse.htm One question though, how do you know that you've got 150kg of nose weight and don't have too much/little? M@

Ha Ha. International man of mystery

It's ok I'm a big boy, I'm on the old style licence - up to 7.5 tonne, etc. B)