Pyrover

If your going to be putting some self-tappers through the roof anyway why not just fit a proper mount, instead of having a bit of scrap metal "plough a furrow" in the back of your head?

Hope you bond it well, wouldn't want that lump flying around in my cab, take your "fookin ed orf!".

You're correct of course (have an A*), but then I am dyslexic so I think I'm allowed to mispell things from time to time. So Ner, Ner, Ner...

Shouldn't that be viscosity, liquidity is a marketing term!

D'oh!.. forgot to add that little gem to my post.

Has anyone made biodiesel in any large quantities? Just been reading the thread "Brakes and Fluid" (difference of opinion as to whether the fluid is hydrophillic or hydroscopic) and suddenly remembered reading somewhere that biodiesel is hydroscopic (attracts water) and am now wondering at what rate it absorbs water, how this affects the the burning of it, and how it needs to be stored in order to avoid it absorbing water (sealed I assume). Anyone...?

...or on the other hand, you could always convert the proper stuff to MDF, would prove cheaper in the long run, as you would only need to go to B&Q to get the parts.

Not sure how you get the TDi's shroud off, as I have a 2.5NA, however so long as the fan belt is still on you should have enough friction on the belt to crack the nuts on the fan without the water pump pulley moving. If like me you removed the fanbelt or have a broken fanbelt then you can remove it by the following:- Use a bit of old belt or a rag to protect the pulley from the filter removal tool chain. Alternatively if you don't have the filter tool, try this one: HTH. M@

Is it something "Ribbed for your pleasure"...

It is for a 101 ambulance (especially if the winch is included), although I'm not sure about a LHD one though. Are they easy to conver to RHD?

Is it the worlds smallest sand ladder?

Got all those. Gearbox has ususal wear on the shaft. It's a military version of the LT77 (51A) ...is that going to be a problem? Time is probably not going to be an issue, and from what you say about the tools needed, I'm not going to have to fork out for lots of expensive specialist one, so therefore the shim costs should not be a major issue either (still cheaper than £400). I've pulled a box apart before, but not a Land Rover one, but what the hell in for a penny... Cheers Jon. M@

If you know anyone in IT then they may be able to get you a cheap, second-hand or discarded, Uniterruptable Power Supply (I got mine free from mate when they scrapped the server cabinets), these are obviously designed for use with IT and Comms equipment and the good ones convert AC to DC and back to AC, so you could just re-jig one of these in order to use a larger battery.

Check out the following:- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

What like gnarly breakers.. dude!

Need to get my LT77 overhauled for this summer and was looking into getting a replacement one from Ashcroft's, however at around £400 for a rebuilt box I was thinking that it might be better to buy the specialist tools and do the work myself. Although this may be the harder route and may not prove the cheaper option either (depends on the cost of the tools or how easy the tools are to knock up). I normally work on the principal that if I can get the tools and parts for half the cost of someone else doing the work I can bu&&er it up once (the so called learning curve) and it's still not cost more than the rebuilt one and in the end I will still have the tools and the knowledge when it comes time to rebuild another one, thus saving in the long run. However.... I have never pulled the LT77 apart (or any Land Rover box for that matter) so have no idea how hard it is to rebuild, however, I do have a copy of the overhaul manual for the box, I come from a family of engineers (although I'm not one) and as such have access to a good range of tools and also have access to a CNC machinist. What are peoples thoughts on a rebuild? M@

Up the proletariat... power to the people!

Sounds about right, usual corporate tactics of screwing the costs of there own f**k-ups out of the consumer.

Don't think much of the layout and the hyperlinks are almost impossible to find due to their colour. Not impressed.

Interesting bodywork... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WASP-LAND-ROVER-101-...1QQcmdZViewItem

Don't want to hijack the thread, but... What's the benefit of having an intergrated solenoid on EPi9 rather than the movable one on the EP9?

Thanks. Had a sneaky suspicion that was going to be the answer.

Probably been asked a thousand times before but... Is it possible to replace the Lucas CAV injector pump on my 2.5NA with a different type of pump e.g. Bosch? I assume that so long as the pump is for the same capacity engine it should not matter which pump you use, therefore is it a mounting issue if they are not interchangeable?

At the end of every big building contract I've worked on we always end up with masses of timber, ply, bricks, etc, which is nearly always skipped and burnt (or the boys take it home ). A number of times, especially on the long contracts, we have scrapped the prefab sheds we used for the canteens on site, most of which were in a farely good state; try having a butchers around your area for a few sites and have a word with some of the lads, who knows you may be able to pick a prefab up for next to nothing or at worst some cheap materials. As far a timber goes I would not build the shed out of 2x2, unless the skin is of ply (as stated), bare in mind that internal studwork uses 3x2's and that takes minimal loading, don't underestimate the power of the force wind. One way of getting cheap timber is to buy it in 10x2 joists and rip it down to size on a table saw (this is what I do). Another source of cheap timber is pallets , large pallets often get resold but the cheaper ones are normally thrown. A engineer mate of mine bilt his workshop this way by using old pallets from his works, only cost him the time, effort and a bag of nails. As for a clear roof e.g. polycarbonate, I would be warey of using it over a large expanse as temperature in the shed will quickly rise to over 50oC+ in the summer, I speak from experience on this one as I've got a double garage with an acrylic plastic roof and when there's no wind it's like something out of Tenko, however you could always paint out some of the panels to reduce the light/heat. You could always go the route of making your own prefab concrete sections, time consuming but relatively simple. As stated all wiring will either need to be carried out by a qualified sparky or signed off by one (good luck with that one.. prepair to grab your ankles).