Pyrover

Sweet... sounds like it could be an interesting project, think I'll have to add that to the projects list.

I did my 110 last year and it looks ok to me. I just bolted the rear of the new crossmember to the tub flattened the plates aroung the chassis rails and tacked it in place, unbolted it, raised the tub and welded it in place. Check out the following in the technical archive Click. It's well worth strengthening the crossmember while you have the chance, I would also V the plates before welding to add some more strength to the weld. Edited: Forgot to say make sure you clean both the new crossmember and the chassis back to bare metal before you weld it in place.

Cheers Fridge.

Sorry, just been reading up on your modem. Unfortunately this is a USB only modem and as such is no good for this kind of setup (D'oh!), this is because it doesn't have a network connection. This modem is realy only good for one computer or computers linked like Western had his setup and as I have stated is a very insecure way of connecting to the internet, i.e. do you want someone hijacking your computer and looking at kiddie porn from it? Do yourself a favour and get the modem/router version of the one you were looking at, the BELKIN F5D7632, it's only 20 euros more. Edited to say: Or you could get the router you were looking at and a new DSL modem, I personally use seperate hardware solutions as I'm not a fan of the jack of all trades approach, besides if one piece becomes faulty or obsolete it's any easy upgrade.

Sorry maybe I should have gone a bit more in depth, G-band comes in a number of different versions G, G+, G+MIMO, when I said G-band I ment in relation to the B-band stuff. G-band has the lowest range of the three versions, while G+MIMO has the greatest, however all the hardware needs to be of the same type (i.e. G+) or it will not benefit by the distance increase, i.e. if you had a G+ router but a G network card the router can send the data to the card but the card will not have the range to reply. They will all work together however, although you just won't get the range, so effectively you will be paying for expensive G+ gear but only getting the benefits of G. Also bare in mind that G-band is the cheapest, while G+MIMO is the most expensive.

Just need to clear something in regards to the modem; does your modem also have an RJ45 socket or is it only USB?

I found the UK version of the 7230 and I'll have to assume there is little difference physically with the French one, it would seem to fit the bill, G-band, 10/100 switch, SPI firewall, NAT, etc. I'll also have to assume you are a fluent French user as the software will all be in French. Edited to say: I'm just going to download the manual to make sure it is ok for what you need though. What I would suggest is that you connect the destop computer to the router via a network cable and that you use the laptop via wireless. Do remember that it is only G-band so does not have an amazing range, a range which will drop off dramtically if there are walls, etc, in the way. Have a good read up about this router, there will be loads of sites testing and rating these so you should find some useful info. HTH M@

If you have windows XP on the desktop PC then look under Start-Control Panel-System, select the "Hardware" tab and select the "Device Manager" button this will show you all the hardware for your system, your network card will be under "Network Adapters"or you can look under Start-All Programs-Accessories-System Tools you will see a program called "System Information" this will tell you what bits your computer has but is a bit more complex. Your laptop is fine, as for the wireless ethernet routers on Eblag these are fine also (or should be), if you want to post up the router I'll take a butchers for you.

Been chatting with a mate of mine who's a complete Jag nut and he sujested that the Jaguar XK6 engine would be an ideal engine to fit in a Land Rover, especially the 4.2 version. I know that there was the straight-6 engine fitted to some of the series Land Rovers but has anyone attempted to fit an XK engine.

I agree, for light work I have a Dewalt 18v cordless drill with a metal knurled keyless chuck and it's the dogs dangleys (fully charged in only 15mins..!), far superior to the cheap ones. I and many of my work mates have used DeWalt stuff on site for many years and without any trouble, I can honestly say it's well worth paying a bit extra and getting a good one. I also have a DeWalt SDS for heavy work, which is also a fantastic piece of kit, it drills, hammers and hammer/drills. Comes with an SDS keyed chuck, which is far better for use with larger drill bits and on harder materials. Both of these are heavy bits of kit and it can become hard work using them for extended periods, the SDS drill is long with the keyed chuck in too and as such does not fit easily into tight spaces, but these are the only downside (appart from the price).

Yes that's right, provided your laptop has a wireless network card, if not you can get a USB one (a bit like the USB memory sticks) which just plugs into the USB port. Make sure you check to see if the card is supported by the operating system, wireless USB is not usually supported on earlier operating systems (e.g. Windows, 95, 98, ME). Not sure who makes the rest of your networking hardware but IMHO it is usually best to stick to a single manufacturer for all the network gear to avoid problems, as well as to benefit by any advanced features the manufacturer has included, features which are not usually supported by other manufacturers. If you are intending on going the wireless route one thing to consider is the different wireless standards around, the most common are "b" (802.11b) and "g" (802.11g), although "n" (802.11n) is also gaining poularity but should be avoided at the moment for technical reasons. Of the b and g standards I would personally go for g as it is faster with a greater range, but this decisson will depend on what hardware you have already, if any (this makes no difference to your modem by the way). It is ok to mix standards (i.e. run b and g on the same network) as the hardware will either support the two simultaneously or default to the lowest speed, althought the latter is obviously not ideal, but at least the network will still work. As for who's the best manufacturer to go for... it's horses for courses I'm afraid. The most common manufacturers are Linksys, Belkin, Netgear, D-link, although there are loads of others. Linksys seem to be the most used (made by Cisco Systems, the world biggest manufacturer of network gear and the inventor of the router) and have a good reputaion for performance, easy set-up and lots of features (look ugly as sin though). I personally use Belkin but have found their wireless routers are not very robust, as they seem to have a problem with the routing software, they are also really bad for support. As for the others I've only had limited use so don't know, I'm sure you could find out some info about the various manufacturers on the net though. HTH. M@

You could always try an A-frame of scaffold poles to move the load onto a power-barrow, which you can get from the likes of Brandon tool hire (have no idea how expensive they are to hire but I think it would probably be quite steep).

It's a Trebuchet, it's for throwing NOT craning... and I don't think they make modern ones.

Just a suggestion...

The modem (Modulator/Demodulator) just basically encodes a digital signal into anologue and back to digital enabling data to be sent along the phone line. You could if you wish just plug your computer direct into your modem (via USB) and the modem into the phone line and you would be able to surf the net, but it is very insecure to do this. A router cannot connect directly to the phone line and needs the modem in order to do so (some routers have a modem built in), therefore you would connect your computer to the router and the router to the modem and then finally the modem to the phone line. As the name sujests a router "routes" information around a network. It is only realy required to connect remote networks together (think internet.. lots of different networks connected together) so is not realy required for a small home network, this is because you connect to your ISP (Internet Service Provider) directly via your modem and they carry out the routing on your behalf. However most modern routers do more than just route and these other functions are what you realy require the router for. The most important function they do as far as your concerned is provide a firewall, basically this is a software barrier between your network and the internet. When you connect to your ISP they give your computer what is called an IP address, this basically enables your computer to be located anywhere on the internet, because of this your computer can also be attacked in a varity of ways from any other computer connected to the internet (viruses, trojans, spyware, worms, etc, the list is endless). The router does something called NAT (Network Address Translation) and basically uses the IP address you've been assigned by your ISP as it's own address, it then gives your network another address which is unkown on the internet. The router now basically looks at all the incoming (and sometimes outgoing) data to determin if it is safe before forwarding to the addresses it has given to the computers on your network. This is also usefull as you only have one IP address (so effectively only one computer can connect to the internet) but NAT lets you give each computer a unique address to access the internet. HTH M@

Ok you just have a USB modem, obviously the USB connects to the computer and the other socket connects to your ADSL phone line. Yes you could connect the laptop to the desktop computer and then the desktop to the modem and both share the internet, files, printer, etc, however this is not a good setup and should be avoided at all costs. As already stated a router adds another level of security on top of any software security your computer has, this is important as your computer will be permanently connected to the internet and therefore easier to hack, etc, therefore I would recommend you get a router a.s.a.p. HTH

Yes, do you have a modem on its own, a modem/router (combined), or a seperate modem and router?

Yep they are the network card sockets, all you need to do is plug a standard network cable from each of the sockets to the back of your router, which will have probably 5 identical looking sockets, it dosn't matter which ones you plug into.

At least that explains the price for a 2000 90!

If you want post up the specs of the equipment you have (or would like to use), along with the operating system, I can give you a simple guide to follow rather than a whole ream of information to decipher.

If that's a year 2000 90 then is the 300TDi original as well.... I thought production of the 300TDi stopped in 1998, when TD5 came along?

D'oh..! Was looking at Sealey's own price, even so I'd pay the extra and get a higher rated one as it can be turned into a half decent press (with a bit of bodging).

Sorry forgot to add this. It's a tube bending guide for anyone who's interested Click.

£211.44... ! What are you mad or something, my brother picked up the 16ton version of this type for new off Ebay for £90 (not Sealey though, but still works sound). Have a look for "Hydraulic pipe bender" there's loads posted at the moment. As stated these type of benders have a tendancy to kink poor quality pipe. With smaller pipe you could try filling with sand (block off ends) before bending or failing that fill with water and freeze before bending, this depends on the type of material your trying to bend though. Interesting post on the Aluminium plate though, I'll have to try that one out. HTH.

Cheers guys, I'll have to see how far I can stretch the budget.