Pastycrimper

Anyone know of where I may be able to get a decent rear tub for 110 defender? Nothing really on ebay, and checked with Thornton breakers and Foleys. Probably hard to come by in good condition second hand. Cheers

Aaaah yes I did read you say this.......thanks for correcting my summary.

Well here's is my opinion the matter, bearing in mind that I am doing a complete rebuild and want everything galvanised. I was looking at used, treated galvanised bulkheads on e-bay. I got two warnings from friends, that unless you saw exactly the condition, post acid bathing then you can get seriously let down in the not so distant future. Both friend's bulkheads started rotting from the inside out in the square section while the rest of the bulkhead was fine. The trouble is the square section you just can't know how clean the surface is prior to galving. The rest may well end up looking all shiny but once the structural uprights rot out you are back to square one. So I looked for a new 300TDI bulkhead ungalavnised - ridiculously expensive now as they aren't made any more (quoted more than my galvanised chassis!). So I made the sarifice and purchased a brand new Puma bulkhead which alas doesn't have the vent flaps but was around £400. The next problem, as mentioned, is finding a galvaniser. My local galvaniser didn't fill me with confidence - they do farm stuff and large structural stuff. They said it would likely warp. I then, by luck more than anything else, was visited an independant LR garage in Penryn who happened to have brand new Puma bulkheads which they got galvanised in Cardiff - I went this route (I forget the precise address of the firm but I can find it when I get back from sea). Really happy with what I got back. It seems like an expensive route but given the second hand ones on ebay were £700, at least I now know I have a brand new bulkhead galvanised properly. I reckon it cost me around this anyway so I think it's a better option. I examined my original bulkhead and decided no matter how much I could try and clean it up there was always a risk of the galv not adhering properly on the internal sections. But as you are findng, trying to recondition an old one can end up costing a lot anyway.

I spoke at length with both Marslands and Richards. I had no issues with either but this thread pretty much summarises it: - If you have any non-standard, modifications or Series requirements then use Richards but be aware that the chassis is 4-sides welded on the corners with potential for slight out of spec.....and use heavier guage steel (2.5mm) which must add some weight. - Marslands do not want to stray from what GKN are still making to LR spec so they are restricted to what GKN have - namely for a 300tdi an original chassis with TD5 rear cross member and plastic tank mounts (although you can specify metal tank mounts but still with the TD5 crossmember). Not sure about later models after TD5 If you look at my thread on this you will see I had great concerns with the galvanise on my first order with Marslands, but Marslands advised me of this before shipping and sent photos. I asked politely that I'd prefer to have another one and they obligued without argument. And in their defence the galving issue wasn't there fault - it was to do with the particular batch of plate steel used by GKN having too high a silicon content (I spoke at length with the UK galvanisers association about this). So I was very happy they let me know before shipping.

Very few legal byways left in West Cornwall now anyway but I do go out at night on those that remain especially on the top of the moors looking out over the Atlantic on a crisp moonlit night. The views are stunning and completely different experience from daytime. However I know these lanes well and wouldn't risk getting stuck. Some idiots go off onto the moors not realising it's a swamp year round (granite water springs under heather and gorse so it looks solid yet will swallow a tractor). I've seen a few vehicles completely abandoned and almost un-recoverable in those heath marshes.

Thanks All - These forums are so great! I wish I wasn't stuck on a construction ship working right now......all I am doing is thinking of the Landy.....2 weeks to go!

I guess they're not that complex - It just seem the runners which the shutters slide in were maybe custom to the body shape, but thinking about it I guess a lot of commercial vans have shutters fitted so there must be places that do this sort of thing.

I really like that idea. I can get a rectangular steel box made up quite easily at a local fabricators who I am sure would be able to come up with a securing bracket. Not quite sure how I'd connect the body edges to the box to make them "connect" nicely, but maybe right angled alluminium riveted to the side of the box and to the body panel not too disimilar to the way the current roller shutter was merged to the body.

A 6kg propane bottle is 495mm high.....maybe switching to a standard Terrafirma side locker would work but then I end up with a gaping whole.......beginning to think finding a roller shutter firm and replacing like for like may be the easiest way forward. Most side lockers I've seen in last half hour aren't 495mm high..... Apparently there used to be a military spec accessories catalogue which include lockers ..... anyone know of this?

So another thing I need to sort for the rebuild. My Landy was originally a 110 Van for Western Power done by LR special vehicles as part of a fleet. As part of this it had the following side locker which I now use as my gas bottle storage. As you can see it is rotten to hell. So I need to replace this but not sure how or what with. Ideally I wouldn't want a roller shutter type due to the curve on the body but I may have to. If I could get some kind of square box type I would be happy even though it wouldn't sit flush and would stick out above the body curve. It needs to fit a 6kg propane bottle. Either way I have no idea where to get roller shutters or custom side lockers....thought I'd ask here before spending hours and hourse of googling.

Nice one - I must be blind. I'm sure I looked at YRMs site and yet completely missed them.....

And you're in Cornwall as well? To be honest I want galvanised ones which YRM do......unless yours are galved and painted?

Essentially anything galved should have a Mordant T-Wash before being painted. After reading many of the forum posts here I ended up speaking with the UK Galvanisers association. They have some useful info on their website http://www.galvanizing.org.uk/learn-more/painting-and-powdercoating/guidelines-pre-treatment-for-painting/

Showing off and not caring. Folks on LR4x4 are responsible owners ( ) with a real passion for Landrovers and exploring the world with them. Sadly in the real world there are a lot of full bore idiots Some 4x4 owners (similar to boyracers wanting fast cars yet unable to drive well) like to assume that they can go anywhere in a Landy and neglect that no preparation and ancillery equipment are key to a) enjoying yourself and b) getting out of trouble when stuck. Otherwise nothing wrong with a bit of romantic nookie atop a mountain in the back of a 110

You Sir are a legend! That's exactly what I mean (by utility I meant van I guess) - that ebay listing has ended but I will chase and there's a part number. Thank You!!!!

OK I think I am finally pretty much there with everything needed. But I need one more thing and I have no idea what it is called or where to get one. This may only apply to 110 Utility Spec....I couldn't see one on a 110 CSW. Anyway its a U-Shaped bracket that sits between the underside of the rear tub/body and the chassis outrigger. My old one is rusted to hell. Ideally I would like a new ones already galvanised as everything else is ready to go but failing that just new ones. Any ideas.....

As above - mordant solution then etch primer.

So far very happy. What a Legend Gwyn is. No one else offered so much help regarding spring ratings. The fact that he'll replace the OME springs if I want a firmer or softer feel is just great.

Interesting - I went for the 754s on the rear too but on advice from Gwyn he suggested n OME3062 for the fronts which I had never heard of - They aren't listed in the OME guide for Defenders but Gwyn said they are just slightly softer than the 751s but will take my bumper and winch.....I'll soon see. the lovely thing about Gwyn Lewis is he said he'd take the springs back immediately and replace with 751s if I wasn't happy

Interesting Ralph. So when you are doing off-road recovery have you ever had a situation where your rear axle articulation has been compromised by the anti-roll bar?

Anyone know how much POR15 is needed to do two coats on a 110 chassis approximately?

Agreed to a point - one issue is that thieving scoundrels will preferentially target a galavnised chassis if they see it. And secondly protecting the galvanised coating will make it last slightly longer but as you point out it is the galvanising that provides the long term protection not an overcoat. To be honest I've spent so much on parts for this rebuild I want to do every last thing I can while its in pieces to help longevity.

I'm just reading this aticle (http://www.galvanizing.org.uk/learn-more/painting-and-powdercoating/guidelines-pre-treatment-for-painting/) - it suggests galvanised surface has been left for a while then maybe etch primer better than T-Wash? Seems T-Wash works best very shortly after galvanising. My chassis was galvanised and stored just over 6 months ago.....

Cheers Ralph.....anyone got ideas on primer after T-Wash or just go straight with POR15 application after T-Wash?

Well I'm about to do this. Looking at special galv primers and then either going Jotum marine paint or POR15