Pastycrimper

Just crazy! having spent thousands on things seriously worthwhile yet the piece in the picture of this link is £400+! (http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=NTC9462)

Well I am just about to start my 110 rebuild. I looked at galvanising my old bulkhead but decided it was too tatty to be worthwhile (Too tatty being an understatement - its completely rotten top to bottom). The trouble being that you cant really clean/shot blast/prepare the internals of the uprights and I'm not convinced a complete acid bath will prepare the surfaces perfectly for glavanising. I've heard, but have no evidence whatsoever, that some of the galvanised old bulkheads don't last so well depending on the condition of how it was before it was galved. So based on this I decided to get a new one and get it galvanised myself. This posed two problems. 1) Getting a brand new bulkhead! Last September I started enquiries and LR do not make the 300tdi bulkhead anymore so I looked at TD5 bulkheads and they were over £1300 (not including any gavanising, VAT or delivery). So I opted to get a Puma bulkhead which was just unde £400 and get that galved. It will obviously mean no beloved LR "A/C" air flaps and some mounts that I don't need but all in all it looks great. 1) My local galvanisers weren't very re-assuring and warned me of warping on a brand new bulkhead and no guarantees to any damage (they sounded like they didn't want to do it but their main business is cornish farmer's gates and large frame steelwork). Anyway I found an independent LR garage in Penryn who had a couple of TD5 & Puma bulkheads galvanised in Wales for rebuilds they are doing. All looked good so I chose to use the Welsh galvanisers who did a great job. And of course I have forgotten the name of the galvanising firm outside Cardiff (It wasn't the big firm!). I'll remember soon I'll report back when the job starts as to how it goes fitting onto a Marslands galved chassis

Well I've decided to take all the advice and help (and now springs/dampers) from Gwyn Lewis. Had a great chat with him today and went and visited the landy and measured her current spring heights parked on the level. The Gwyn kit is designed to use long travel shocks for articulation but if not raising beyond 2" then standard mounts and +2" shocks can be used however kind of defies the purpose of getting the off road benifits of GL's kit. I'll see how she feels without anti-roll bars and the MD OME spring shock setup. I'll retest with some weight on the roofrack. Gwyn sounded confident that road running without anti-roll bars will be fine with the OME and his setup - looking forward to it. Either way from a personal point of view what a pleasure speaking with Gwyn was - could have chatted for ages on all kinds of things. Having spent too much of this week on the phone largely waiting and speaking with idiots I am more than happy with how its turned out so far.

So I have a Marslands 110 galv chassis, td5 galved bulkhead, 2 almost new axles off a 2014 TDCI 110, all new galved Gwyn Lewis challenge suspension kit coils & dampers, brake hoses, wiring harness and more......given that pretty much every other chassis bracket is now galved I thought I'd look at just doing everything and getting the panhard rod bracket (chassis end - PN: NTC9462). Wow are they expensive - even the cheapest new old one on ebay is £125. So I was thinking I just re-use my original after a wire brush down clean and paint. However the front 2014 Puma axle came with the PH rod (almost brand new) and it looks like thhis later TDCI rod uses a wider bush so I don't think I can use my old chassis bracket (???)......there's always something more when I think I have bought everything.

I actually like the current stiffness but maybe due to anti-roll bar and the helper springs. I was just looking for a 1" raise as I think with std height and all my weight she sits just fractionally lower than std height

I'm actually now trying to confirm precisely what I currently have! Not much markings or colour on the springs. I'm 99% certain the rears are standard LR 110 (NRC6904 - 330lb/in & NRC6389 - 330lb/in) plus helper springs (RRC3266 - additional 140lb/in). I have no idea about the fronts. Based on red90 (http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html) I'd say they have to be the heavier duty (220lb/in) as I have the big ARB HD winch bumper (with bull bars) and a milemarker hydraulic winch which I'd ssume would cause the front to sag using normal 155lb/in D110 fronts

A very strange website! Very funny though

I'm looking at the Devotech 1" fronts (220lb/in - https://www.devon4x4.com/devo-tech-coil-springs-defender-disco-1-rr-classic-front-2-lift-58972.html) with the Devotech 1" to 2" 110 rear (330lb/in - https://www.devon4x4.com/devo-tech-coil-springs-defender-disco-1-rr-classic-front-2-lift-58976.html) I'm assuming that even though the rear says 1 to 2" the ride height would be approx level......

Ok so I have just ordered the Gwyn Lewis Challenge mounting kit - all galvanised front and rear locators, turrets, retainers etc etc which leaves me with just springs and dampers to source. I totally accept that there are numerous threads discussion spring damper setups as it is entirely down to individual usage and preference. However I still like the thoughts. My 110 has a camper conversion, HD roofrack, HD winch bumper and winch. All in all about 2.3 t kerb weight now with a lot of that being hard wood as part of the camper built inside the rear tub. It was running on the standard LR front and rear springs with the rear helper springs (as found on 130s). I'm not going for any extreme offroad lifting but am considering 1" higher springs (The standard Gwyn Lewis Challenge suspension is for std to 2" height). Vehhicle predominatantly road use but she resides on a farm so there is constant cornish track and field driving. The most off roading she does is standard greenlaning but more so when I go on camping expeditions to Scotland or Morrocco (most notable example being given free reign to roam a Scottish mountain on Coigach penisula which was very rugged terrain of all types. However, on my own at least, I never risk going anywhere I could get stuck so extraordinary axle articulation isn't something I need). I've been considering Old Man Emu, & Extreme4x4 and notice FamousFour and Devon4x4 seem to do their own springs. Otherwise it's all Britpart & Bearmach it seems. Of more interest though is quality and rating (lb/inch). As I originally had the rear helper springs I'm thinking of getting 1" rears with maybe 400 to 430 lb/inch which I assume would be similar to LR original with helper springs with std 1" fronts. I know OME do this but I often hear its "quite stiff" as designed for travelling fast on dirt roads (Ozzi style). Currently looking at The D44 "Devo-tech" springs.......or do I just go cheaper ****part??? Anyway if anyone has similar weight 110 I'd be interested in opinions on what rating they with std to 1 inch lifts even if it is reviving numerous old threads......

Cheers guys .....just what I wanted to hear

Ok hopefully my last rebuild question. I bought from a breakers yard an excellent quality complete rear axle off a 2014 defender. I am fitting it to my 97 110 defender. I'm aware that the later axles has the rover not Salisbury diff. What rear prop shaft do I need. I'm guessing the latest defenders with the Ford engine don't use an R380 gearbox. But surely in the time between there was a prop shaft for the R380 connecting to the later non-Salisbury axle? Part number or years for which the correct shaft I need? Cheers as always

Hi Ralph. I keep bleddy getting called to work which is really interupting my land rover work flow. Hopefully get back on track with rebuild next week when I get home.

Axles received promptly on Monday. Very happy with them.....hoped they'd throw the radius arms in and the PH Rod bracket (chassis end) but otherwise next to brand new very good condition axles.

Enjoyed chatting with them today - explained my current rebuild sob story (which is true so far) and sounds like they have what I wanted.....we will see as i made the order. Fingers crossed

£450 for front £750 for rear (Delivery to UK mainland address £73)

Yeah....I just spoke with them. I've always been a bit wary of breakers but it would appear they are getting a lot of LRs only presumably insurance write offs. He sounded much more helpful than many a breaker I've spoken with. Think I may bit the bullet. He has an 2014 plate front axle and a 2012 rear sounding in near perfect condition (and abviously a lot newer than my axles)

Has anyone purchased any parts from Thornton Breakers? I notice they have a lot of Defenders currently breaking and was thinking about enquiring for relatively new axles with these guys (ssuming the axle itslef hasn't been damaged itslef in an accident)

Interesting thread: I received my 110 chassis from Marslands a few months back. They were really good to be honest. There was an issue with the first one I ordered - the galving process may or may not have been OK but they notified me with photos before shipping. I was slightly uncomfortable about it, but without hesitation they accepted my request that I didn't want it and I waited another 6 weeks and they sent a new one down to Cornwall all looking good. They have an agreement with LR to buy exactly the same chassis from GKN direct hence why an official LR original will be more expensive. Yes - the chassis is later design for the plastic tank. I've decided to go with the plastic tank. I prefered the old steel ones but a friend recently bought a new steel one and the build/steel quality was poor so unless you treated it I could see it rusting much quicker than the older ones. My guess on this is that so many things today are made from lower grade chinese steel whereas 30 years back British steel was used. I work offshore and as mentioned already, zinc anodes are bolted onto all subsea ferrous constructs - cathodic protection known as sacrificial anodes. We replace them all the time and they work but of course underwater the entire construct is in "conductance" due to seawater.

OK just re-read your post - if this is happening to your indicators as well then I may well be wrong in my previous post. But still worth checking.

I had exactly this problem once before and it took me ages to resolve and the solution was so simple. The tail/break light is one bulb with two filaments inside (5W/21W). I hadn't realised but the brake light filament had broken and fallen onto the tail light filament thus whenever I applied the brake, 12 Volts would be "shorted" onto the sidelighting circuit (front and rear). Take out both of your rear tail/break light bulbs - I eckon you'll see part of a filament touching another filament in one of them! This drove me spanners when it happend. Whenever I was approaching a roundabout at night I'd apply the brake and the side lights would start randomly flickering - i checked all earthig points everything and it was just a bulb.

OK Firstly I got called back to the North Sea. So I wasn't ignoring the responses just no internet. As always thanks for thoughts and ideas..... Hey Mo, I totally agree! I wasn't clear in the OP. I am not doing the rebuild myself - merely just assisting with the things I can do and mainly trying to project manage. I helped my Dad years ago do much of a rebuild on his S3 which was great fun but I am by no means the man for the job but it's mainly my offshore working schedule - I know if I tried this on my own it would end up taking years. I actually want to do my axles but not this time - think I'd enjoy it! I haven't even dare ask LR what an RRP full axle is! I've heard that just a casing from LR is £2000. I was hoping to maybe get one from a bona-fide breakers or a reputable supplier. The only leads so far with Simmonites who are advertising a new front as well as reconditioned front and rears. But yes I'd much rather traceability than a rogue ebay number. Looking again - I may just proceed with the front only as my rear Salisbury doesn't look so bad. Probably just clean it up and fit new discs, callipers and SS pipes Vulcan! Having read many of your posts then this sounds great BUT I'm as unlocal to anyone given I'm 6 miles from Lands End then not so convenient. (Aside from Ralph who's not far at all!). All in all she's been off the road long enough now - it's more an issue of time - I'd love to recon them myself. I think the Simonites recon route is the way to go given my schedule this year. I think my next job is off the UK coast probably so if I sail into Great Yarmouth I intend on asking the Bosun for the Jotun Marine Paint they use on the decks.

Thanks folks. I've no idea why but I am somewhat scared of reconditioning the current ones myself. There's also the time issue. It seems to have taken ages to get to the point where I am now and I haven't started the real work yet - but also someone else will be doing the bulk of the re-chassising as I dont have all the space/tools required. I feel if I shifted the axles to my Dads farm and tried to recon them there I'd end up delaying the whole project siginificantly longer and I have reached the point where I need the pleasure of driving her back on/off the road. I'm completely split - the sensible side says keep the current ones, looking after them and see how they go as Ralph suggested. That said I haven't seen prices for new ones. Been looking on ebay - huge price variations. I noticed on the Simmonites website they were selling a new front axle for around £1300 inc VAT or thereabouts. I'll have to enjoy ringing land rover and seeing what they charge over the counter. I've always been scared of buying reconditioned parts due to bad experiences in the past. If anyone knows personally people who specialise in reconditoning LR axles and can recommend I'd be interested.

Ahoy, Been ages since I've been online here.....last time I was I was alluding to pretty much a full rebuild after rust MOT failure on the chassis. Well after months, even though Landy not having moved and inch, we have pretty much sourced and sorted everything required for the job (new gaved bulkhead, chassis, all brackets, tappings, runners shotblasted and galvanised and all the ancilleries - bushes, ss brke pipes, suspension, new wiring harness etc etc). And then the idea is thrown to me - why not replace the axles too? And the more I think, given that almost everything else is being replaced maybe I should go the whole hog and do axles as well? especially since end of the line defender roll out. My current ones are good internally (oil always changed etc etc) but flange ends, sphere mounts, and bracket mounuts externally are pretty corroded - they look tatty for sure. So it begs the question do I try and source brand new axles and if so from where? Also I understand after 2007(???) rear 110 axles were changed from Salisbury to a later type. I always heard Salisbury were the tough ones - - do I have a choice in 2016 and if so what would be the better rear axle. Or do I go for finding properly done reconditioned ones? Well I am in the deep end now having spent so much on parts. But maybe now is the time given everything else will be off and rebuilt. All opinions always welcomed........ Cheers

Well Marslands have been perfectly gentlemanly accepting my request for a different chassis. Too many unknowns for me which they understood so I just need to wait a few weeks for the next batch of 300tdi chassis' to go through. So despite the delay and question marks over that particular chassis if anyone following is wondering about Marslands I am happy with their customer service and willingness to accept my thoughts and requests for a new chassis.

Thanks again Barry, It interests me too. I understand your point on coating thickness. What I'mnot too clear on is the level of adhesion. A thicker coat sounds great but can the high silicon affect how it adheres to the steel? A thick coat which "flakes" off is what I am worrying about.