Pastycrimper

Note it is an original spec with no mods. The alloy rims look as though they are wider than my wolf rims on my Defender so I'm guessing the rim can easily take a much wider tyre its just whether the vehicle can. We are on a very wet muddy farm in Cornwall hence the question.

Ignorant question from a Defender owner. My bro has got a tidy freelander 1. We were just wondering what is the widest mud tyre that can be fitted without losing turning circle or hitting spring stops etc. Equally if one was to use spacers as well how wide is it possible to go. Also whats the law on this?

I had a new experience today. Driving on a very offroad byway section in west Cornwall which was very flooded (but great fun). Very suddenly my windscreen completely steamed up (as in less than 4 seconds) and I had no visibility whatsoever. I stopped and switched the heater fan on which made it slightly worse for about 10 seconds and then began to de-mist until it was perfectly clear again. Twas obviously clear that a massive splash of water went into the heater air intake which I have on top of the wing. I guess most of you are laughing in surprise that I have yet to experience this LR trickery but all joking aside if had been travelling at any speed and that happened it would have been very dangerous. The windscreen went from clear to useless in no time. I've yet to open the heater box but I dont spose much damage can be done getting water through the intake? Additionally is there anyway to stop this (Great excuse to fit a second snorkle...............).

Theres nothing on the V5 logbook regarding MOT class. The V5 just states model, body (light 4x4 utility), taxation class (PLG), chassis number, engine number and colour. Therefore surely if the garage has put it through MOT as a test class 4 then the DVLA system has accepted it. So do I need to notify the DVLA of anything? When I bought it the camper conversion had been done but the log book was as stated.

I didn't contact the DVLA at all. The new garage read their MOT manual and tested it as class 4 as it fulfilled the criteria for a motor caravan. Below is a direct copy and paste out of that manual: A `motor caravan' is "a motor vehicle (not being a living van) which is constructed or adapted for the carriage of passengers and their effects and which contains, as permanently installed equipment, the facilities which are reasonably necessary for enabling the vehicle to provide mobile living accommodation for its users". Motor caravans are not classed as goods vehicles for MOT test purposes and are therefore in Class 4 or 5 depending on their seating capacity but regardless of their size or weight. A `living van' is "a vehicle, whether mechanically propelled or not, which is used for living accommodation by one or more persons and which is also used for the carriage of goods or burden which are not needed by such one or more persons for the purpose of their residence in the vehicle". Living vans are classed as goods vehicles and, depending on their weight, are therefore in either Class 4 or 7 within the MOT test scheme or are subject to HGV plating and testing.

Well it went through OK as a class 4 motor caravan.......ironicallly the class 4 at the new garage was more costly than the class 7 I was paying previously elsewhere . Very happy with new full deCAT exhaust and 4 new injectors, timing, valve& service though....she;ls running much better especially more turbo at the lower rev end

This is a grey area but having spent some research yesterday I think Zardos is correct. As far as I can tell, a "normal" landrover with a GVW of 3500kg will have been automatically upgraded to class 7. Looking at my previous MOTs, my vehicle was class 4 certainly from 2005 to 2009 and then suddenly the 2010 MOT states class 7 presumably because the DVLA knew it had a GVW of 3500kg. They were never notified of the camper conversion so the log book is pretty much as it was originally registered when owned by a large utility firm. However the camper issue is separate - as in you can have vehicles with greater than 3000kg GVW tested as class 4 if they are a camper includung a landrover. So what is a camper? As Zardos pointed out this is a grey are but me and my mechanic (which is a class 4 Test station) actually looked through their MOT DVLA handbook and clearly found two separate paragraphs: one for "Motor Caravans" and one for "Living Vehicles" - there was very little to determine the difference other than a motor caravan is a vehicle that is designed for temporary living as a private vehicle whereas a iving vehicle is a "commerical vehicle" which has living facilities. It is a grey area. I use my landrover as a camper for fun (driving the mrs around Scotland etc) however I also use the landrover for work (namely winching heavy objects around) but I don't use the "camping facilities" when dong this. Either way I have asked my mechanic to try and re-MOT it at there premices as a Motor Caravan.....I'll update on the results.

Hi, I've discussed this elsewhere but a mechanic has just told me that "registering your vehicle as a camper" will change my MOT class to 4. Quick background - I have an ex-utility board LR special vehicles 110 (1997). Part of the original special vehicles addition is the slightly reinforced rear suspension with the twin (helper) rear springs. This set-up (as can be seen from the VIN plate) means the vehicle has a GVW of 3500kg (I believe CSW and 90s are 3050kg). Therefore under the new MOT regulations anything with an GVW of between 3000 and 3500kg is a Class 7 MOT. Where I live there are far fewer class 7 MOT garages and ideally I'd like my personal garage to MOT my landy but they are only liscenced for class 4 MOTs so for the past few years I have bitten the bullet and taken the vehicle to a separate garage for MOTs. HOWEVER I have just been told that if I convert my vehicle to a camper (which I have) then it becomes class4!??? Is this true even if my VIN plate states 3500kg GVW? If yes, what specifically defines a camper - I have a custom fitted wooden bench/bed, a gas hob, wooden storage, heater, fridge etc (but no windows). I cant find anything on campers so I am under the belief that I will be class 7 whatever and this camper rule maybe from times gone by. Any opinions?

I have square rocksliders and I fitted the Britpart side step.......it wouldn't go completely vertically into the back position because of the sliders but its not far off and is fine for me.

So I visited the local garage and had a look at there kit and also a defender on the ramp but that only had the rear done in stainless but it looked very well done. All SS, and they used the original hanging points. However they did say that they cant bend 2.5" pipe beyond 50degrees which means that they can only do a complete system using 2.25" pipework which I believe is very slightly smaller than original (I beleieve 300tdi exhaust to be 2.375" but I may be wrong. Anyone think 2.25" will be a bad move?

Grrrr....the more I look into this the more issues and questions seem arise. Now it is between sleave joints vs flanges to connect sections (aside from the flange at the turbo outlet). Clearly many SSsystems (based on my research) still use mild steel flanges (which slightly defies the point of SS system to me). The current people I have been enquiring with say that all of their sections are connected with SS sleaves and clamps and aside from connecting to the turbo outlet, do not use flanges. Yet I have just spoken to someone else I know who works on Landys who said that flanges are much better due to problems that occur with expansion and contraction with sleaved joints...??? Anyone care to cast their opinion on whats better? At this rate I'm just going revert back to standard mild steel aftermarket exhaust. I figured I'd be prepared to spend up to £400 on a SS number but starting to feel that unless this is done properly by someone like HFH used then its just a waste of money......crikey this is only a damn exhaust, not exactly the most technical part of a landrover!

I guess noise is a very personal thing. I like the sound of the turbo but am not interested in roaring groans and grumbles. As far as I'm concerned, removing the CAT does much more than removing the middle box regarding performance. I also do 400+ mile journeys.....did Cornwall to Moss, Norway earlier in the year which is 1300miles. Yet some people say that removing the centre box doesn't make it much noiser which I guess is down to individual ears. I'm going to do west Ireland with Mrs as well as portugal hopefully in 2013 - she will be the true test of noise levels! I'll enquire about the internals of the silencer boxes that the company intend on fitting.

Thanks Reb78. I actually just found another thread on LRO which VulcanBomber has mentioned loads of useful stuff (http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=80638). I'm currently thinking 2.5" deCAT setup. I cant reaally work out if putting a straight through centre pipe and removing centre silencer actually improves perfomance. Clearly removing the CAT will, but if a straight through is just going to be noiser then I cant see the benefit (I normally do quite a few long distance drives). But Ralph and others seem to think they get slightly better "response" with a straight through without much noise change.

Additional - Can anyone tell me what the standard LR exhaust diameter is for a 300tdi 110?. I've read elsewhere that is is 2.375" or 3" which is a big difference. I am thinking 2.5" seems available readily. One chap I spoke to said bending 3" beyond 45degs on the front pipe can be tricky.....

Thanks once again everyone. Enjoyed reading HFH threads - very interesting but specific to the V8. It seems that the Double S ones that are sold everywhere, are already built (bend/welded) to the landrover OE design sections although of all of the reviews I have read Double S were the most variable with more negatives. Trying to assess everything I have read I get the impression that the pipes are fine but flanges and hangers are all mild steel. Additionally some threads mention that the double S pipes were significantly smaller diameter than the OE design which is bad. A lot of people including HFH have had there best success with specialist custom exhaust firms so I have been looking up these in Cornwall. The new Longlife depot down here, as well as a company who fits Powerflow exhausts each claim that they make the exhaust up on site.....which sounds pretty custom. I can choose the pipe diameter etc so I guess this is then down to their expertise (which unless anyone has used South Crofty garage (Powerflow) or Longlife (Dub Bits - St.Austel) I have no idea about). I think I may just pop along and check them out in person. Finally I was going to get a deCAT front pipe but leave the rest a standard but does using a straight through (removing centre box) make much difference to power. I was under the impression using a deCAT front pipe made the most difference but if adding a straight through increases power too then maybe I'll consider this. Time to get on the phone and ask detailed questions....

Thanks Chaps. I'll see what Ralph has to say as he's close to me and try and find Hybrids posts on the subject. Spearos - interesting comment. The Longlife Depot in Cornwall has literally just opened not that helps decide on their expertise but may mean that their staff are new to the "expensive machine that they use to bend the pipe" (so said the chap I spoke to)......although in my opinion it will be the quality of final welding that matters.

Having trawled the main online suppliers (Paddocks, D4x4, Island4x4, Craddock, Rimmerbros etc) I get the feeling that the SS exhausts they supply are the "Double S" brand. SO far I have only found "Double S", "Longlife" and "Terrafirma" SS exhausts, so perhaps there aren't as many as I initially thought. As mentioned I have had a quote for a "Longlife" one fitted for £300 with full lifetime guarentee which is sounding like the cheapest option.

When it doesn't rain in pours as they say which is very appropriate given the weather. I had an advisory notice on my MOT for exhaust. Having just inspected it I actually cannot believe they didn't fail it as the tail pipe from rear box just came off in my hand and theres another three holes on the welded pipe to box sections all along so its time for more expense. I was just going to get a standard centre and tail section although this did prompt me reconsidering a de-CAT SS exhaust. Having done a bit of research it suddenly strikes me that there are quite a lot of manufacturers. I just asked a mechanic to price one up and they came back with £753.24 inc VAT and delivery but not fitted which I thought was steep!!! I just looked at Paddocks and they appear to be selling a complete Double S system for £325 exc VAT. Additionally I have heard tale of some SS exhausts being built badly which given one is paying for a top quality bit of kit would really frustrate me if I invested and got something noyt quite up to par.........so it begs the question does anyone recommend or not recommend a particular brand and what do people expect the prices to be? Additional - I just received a call from Longlife saying they could fit a complete assemly if I get my vehicle to them for £300 ex VAT.....anyone got a Longlife? Thanks again in advance

Thanks all. Think I'll get a Sumobar

I must confess I like the idea of an HD one as I'm always reading about bent ones - although that is perhaps just the hardcore heavy offroaders. At £11 for a standard track rod I'm beginning to turn back to your line of thought.

Gwyn Lewis were as far as I got.....they sell the sumo bars which look to me like a straight swap. I also noticed that they have a pretty special track rod protection kit (over the top for me I think). All I can find now are Sumo bars and Dan bars (whcih if memory serves correctly are just tubes that slide over an normal track rod). As I need to replace my rod completely it seems that Sumobar is the way forward from a HD point of view but then as Specialbikejames said maybe its just worth getting a normal track rod which are only £11. Has anyone ever bent a track rod not offroading heavily or is it always that offroad stump/rock that destroys these. I have no idea how I bent mine - obvipously its a tiny kink rather than a full banana so I must have just clipped it. Its barely noticeable although I fine eye will see that the wheels aren't aligned perfectly.

My track rod has taken a small knock and additionally the threads have been pulled. I was just about to fit new TR-ends and decided that actually I may as well get a new track rod. I thought I may as well get a HD track rod but having just done some internet searching I don't seem to be able to find any? Plenty of the normal NRC9742 standard track rod. So can anyone point me to some HD track rods and also I've heard that some HD track rods are two wide for the small protection guard/bracket on the diff in which case I guess I may have to take this off........or would the general consensus be to just go for a standard bar? I don't do any competition off-roading but she is off road a lot on the farm and I do go greenlaning and the occasional tougher spots.

NFU are stil the only ones who seem to be happy to cover all of my extras (toys - winch, solar panel and regulator, battery monitor, Webasto heater, fridge and even the gas hob!) hence I stay with them. I got a much cheaper quote ffrom Direct Line but they only said they'd cover what was in a standard 110 Utility cab defender of that age so I stuck with NFU (£410 with NCD protection £200 excess). As someone else mentioned I think who you get at your local NFU office can make quite a difference. They treated me with superb service but maybe that's because they have insured my Dads farm, all public liability on it (Cornish coast path goes through it), all his vehicles and all the properties for over thirty years.......

I got the S**tpart folding side step to help my old dear to get in which fitted fine. It does fold up but just not quite all the way. Can be seen in this pic (just). Also added a handle on the inside just above the door for her to grab.

Almost all of the the suppliers mentioned above do free (or very cheap) next day delivery. Most online/mailorder suppliers suppliers will sell orginal, good OEM and cheap pattern parts so just make sure that your getting the right type. I think most people on here will agree that staying away from cheap pattern copies is a good idea - the good OEM parts are only a little more expensive than the pattern parts but a great deal cheaper than LR original. Can't speak for London suppliers but most non specialist average 4x4 garages (i.e. not Landrover specialists) tend to sell Britpart parts which if you trawl these forums is pretty much a no no - they apparently do some good parts but I've yet to find some. However you may have a local supplier that sells LR and OEM parts off the shelf which as mmgemini says is always nice but if you dont I'd stick to online/mail order. If you've got a 300tdi then get a spare serpentine drive belt (they're pretty tough but always good to have a spare) note that these come in two lengths depending on basically the size of the alternator pulley. Ealrier 300tdis had a bigger puller and hence a longer belt whereas later versions or ones with A/C fitted a beefier alternator with a smaller pulley. Note as far as I am aware Dayco make this belt for Landrover and the Dayco OEM belt is much cheaper than the LR original which is assumedly exactly the same item just missing the green oval stamp so here's an example where OEM is the way forward. Somewhere on this forum I think someone has created a list of who some of the OEM suppliers for landrover are which is useful. For instance Denso make the alternators. Most decent suppliers do complete service kits (i.e. filters) - many a debate on whats the best - just don't go for a cheap unheard of brand - Good brands do filters for pretty cheap so your not talking much difference to your wallet. Some people only use LR filters but I have always used Coopers filters. I've only been on the forum for a couple of years - if you have any questions just ask here. Its full of legendary helpful advice and has come to my rescue numerous times. Enjoy the 110 - I can't imagine life without mine anymore!