Pastycrimper

It's a tough one. The galvanisers said "that the dull galvanising occurs when there is a lot of silicon in the steel but it does take on more galvanising than normal so is better protected." Obviously that sounds great but as Studmuffin said (as has a local galvaniser) that too much silicon can cause bad adhesion - so I am left with an element of doubt. Marslands have said they'd supply another but it could be a long wait....

@ StudMuffin - Ithought about looking at it up front but I am only a couple of miles from Lands End so it's quite a journey at a time when I have plenty of other local chores having just spent 5 weeks at sea. Plus I am not quite sure what I would be looking for even if I did see it up front.

As mentioned in my OP....I have seen Marslands Chassis fresh from delivery and I have never had any issue with them - quite the contarry they always looked of really good quality.....one of the reasons I ordered. For other memebers this post is by no means a maligned target at Marslands. Quite honestly I believe (from what I have seen) both Marslands and Richards supply great chassis. My issue is I have worked and saved for this rebuild for awhile now so as dailysleaze mentioned I cant help thinkng that the normal quality for this particular chassis isn't quite there else why would they mention it in the first place. I have asked that I'd rather another one....I'm just one of the wierdos who feels really bad and guilty asking for such, but it IS the intergral part of doing the rebuild so the thought of any substandard galving would destroy me if I found it rotting in a few years time. I even felt guilty posting on this forum thinking that maybe if anyone from Marslands was watching they may take it as a negative slant on them. The truth is I allmightily paranoid about galving. I recall being a lad on Dads farm and him buying three 16ft gates at the same time 20 years ago - two are still standing strong and one started rotting within 5 years so I am aware that galvanising isn't just as imple case of dunking something in a tank of hot liquid.

Pictures copyright to j.e.marsland

I was considering the Jotun deck paints the ABs always paint on the construction ship I work - not quite sure what specific Jotun it is.....I'll check the Bosuns store

....although it's been so long since I posted a photo I have forgotten how....

Hi again, I am currently working at sea and internet/checking forum hasn't been too easy. I'm returning home tomorrow evening so I will devoting 100% of my time on this. Thanks all again. I did receive two photos....

Thanks Barry, I was of the understanding that Marslands purchased genuine Landrover chassis and crossmembers either direct from LR or the OEM supplier for Landrover (GKN???). I'll try and get some more info.....

Hi All, I'd really appreciate your opinions. I ordered a new galved chassis from Marslands - I've seen their chassis before and never seen any problems/issues. They have just called me and said it is ready but that there are dull blemishes and variations in the finish on the rear cross-member and that it doesn't have the normal immediately shiny gaved finish (I'm aware galv does dull over time but normally I'm used to it being "shiny" straight out of the dip). They said it was something to do with too much silicon in the metal(??). My concern is I am breaking my bank for this rebuild and obvioulsy the new galved chassis is pretty much the key point of the whole thing. I'd be furious if I started seeing rust after a few years. Even moreso if this is elsewhere on the chassis So should I reject it and ask for another? Or do people think this is quite normal! As mentioned all Marslands chassis I've seen before have seemed really well galvanised so I don't want to upset them unecesarily but at the moment I am uncomfortable accepting it if there is an issue with the galving.

I'm just about to receive a brand new galved chassis from Marsland. Can POR-15 be applied directly to a galved chassis? I want to go as overkill as possible as I'm doing a full rebuild and I like the idea of spraying POR-15 inside and outside of my new chassis. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks Guys. I'm not ignoring people - I'm just at sea on a shoddy ship with carp internet. @Gavin - Thanks- interesting read! @Ralph - Brilliant - That's is exactly the post I couldn't find. @D Anderson - I am having the same issue with wiring harness. I am slightly annoyed with myself as there was an LR orginal harness on ebay in Cyprus which albeit slightly expensive was at least available but it has gone now.

So aside from chassis and bulkhead I'm wondering what other steel parts should I strip and get galvanised? Currently got all new polybush kit ordered, stainless steel brake piping, a-frame ball joint, chassis harness at the ready. I still feel that there are many things I should also be considering........

ejparrott - Fair point although I am of the opinion that doing everything possible to prevent rust onset is worthwhile. My fear being that a tiny crack in the galv inside or thin patch may be the start of corrosion in just a teeny tiny place so surely an extra layer on fresh galv can be worthwhile?? ( a much debated point no doubt). I was also considering painting the chasis with Jotun marine paint which I am constantly see being painted on big steel decks whihc they don't seem to etch prime. I guess the only thing I fear with LRs is rust so I am trying to do everything I can at this stage to prevent this. Ralph! - I am good. I basically disappeared to sea on a 15 month contract and barely spent any days in Cornwall. I am back on a normal working rota again so trying to re-engage with life. It was a bit of a shock to have a catastrophic chassis fail last year so I just took her off the road and waited until now. Be good to catch up and chat rebuild over a cuppa! So many parts to consider! My list is getting longer daily and yet I am still paranoid that I am missing something that I should really replace....... now I have a good chance.

Hi All, A very long time since I posted - largely due to work and the dreaded (unexpected) MOT chassis failure last year (another story!). So I finally have the time and space (and hopefully the money) to start the rebuild. Note that a Landrover savvy mechanic is taking on the bulk of the project which is very close to me so I can go and help where I can and feel part of it - I just don't have the time to undertake the whole thing on my own. Anyway it's a 1997 300TDI 110 Utility vehicle......I am being given the freedom of sourcing all of the parts myself....... I'm sure there was a thread on here some years ago where someone posted a fairly thorough list of all the parts they purchased in addition to chassis and bulkhead. I know it really depends on how far I want to go, but I'm currently trying to price up a list of all things and I am sure there was a good rebuild parts list reference on here somewhere??? WIRING harness!!! - I planned on installing a new main engine harness and new chassis harness further bolstered in split convuluted conduit.....I spoke with Auto sparks and they said they only did the chassis harness and that there was a 6 week lead time on an engine harness due to a (nationwide) lack of a certain connector and they sounded pretty unoptimistic abpout a 300tdi harness at all! Any ideas for alternatives. I was thinking the chassis and bulkead would have the longest lead times but a wiring harness!!!! Very frustrating if I have to delay the whole project because of a harness. On the subject I am getting a Marslands Galved chassis and buying a brand new TD5 bulkhead and getting this galved (Very expensive but I figure that this is better than buying a rebuilt galved BH which themsleves are quite costly) - presumably I should waxoil these before getting them fitted!? I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions in the upcoming weeks but if anyone can point me to a parts list which I may have neglected to consider I'd be very grateful. My intention is to do as much as I can, money permitting! Anyway I apolgise in adance as such an open thread on a rebuild can lead in all directions many of which I am sure have been covered here or elsewhere but all tips greatly welcomed. Cheers Pastycrimper

Well my '97 110 does this although I've oddly grown fond of it as when its wet I think I get more swipe than a correctly functioning one but that just happens to be the way mine have "worn" I think. When its only just wet it goes out to what looks correct but doesn't return fully down, however when it is wet, it literally goes from window seal to seal. Anyway with regards to above comments I suspect that its the wheelboxes which are a bit of a fuddle. However it could also be the main gear/crank in the wiper motor as cackshifter said which is a very easy to check. I had to replace the brushes in the wiper motor and "hoped" that it would be the gear/crank but that was OK. You can get these easy (part number DLW000020) but I ended up finding out you can buy the Allmakes PR2 entire motor unit with gears etc for not much more. The drive cable is also easy to withdraw together with the motor so you could check this for wear easily at the same time (the drive cable is essentially guided in tubes around the bend along the inside bulkhead just beneath the windscreen. However the only way to get to the wheelboxes behind the wipers on the inner bulkhead is to pretty much remove all of the front fascia which I didn't go as far as doing. Maybe its not that hard but at the time I had bigger issues and 6 months later I'm sticking......just hope it doesn't fly off in the next massive downpour but I check them and they feel fine and sturdy.

Ha ha probably not. DO you mean the pedal only or the whole box assembly (as in Part No ANR5311)? Either way I thought £37 quid for the whole assembly with the green oval on the box would have offfended my wallet more but the a tenner suggests I rshould make it to Billing this year!

Thanks all. All fitted. The pin/trunnion pivot rod that the pedal swings on was completely shagged. Think it had been stiff since my purchase date and only in the latter few months did the whole pedal start sticking. Anyway I cant believe what a difference it is driving. I've come to the realisation that I have been driving a defender with a stiff clutch for ever. As the only Landrovers I had driven prior to my defender were series vehicles - I think I had "asssumed" that my clutch was normal. NOw I am bewildered by how smooth the clutch pedal action is - almost like driving a car. Note that despite being able to push the pedal down with my foot before my refit when the pedal box was out my arm strength couldn't move the pedal so it was pretty darn stiff. Thanks again for the help.

Cheaper springs here - http://www.lrdirect.com/EDP7510L-Double-Spring-Brake-Clutch-Pedal. I just managed to get the entire pedal box assembly for £37 Landrover original part! Well worth it seeing as the spring is £7-£10. The pedal pivot/spindle/pin on mine had seized. Figured it was probably more of a mission and expense to replace the pin, trunnion and bushes when I could just take the whole thing on and off. Replaced the master and slave cyclinder while I was at it. It's a whole new experience. I am beginning to think that the pedal had began stiffening before I purchased her so I never had the pleasure of driving a 300tdi with a normal clutch (Prior to buying this the only land rovers I had ever driven were Series vehicles).

Thanks all again. The TRW Lucas I felt is the best choice. Well priced and OEM. Nearly finished fitting the new clutch pedal box assembly, master and slave cylinder - all in all not as bad as I thought. I'm assuming the clutch adjustment is as easy as the workshop manual states? Any secret top tips that I should know about?

I should make more enquiries as I work offshore but thats not my area. I definitely see the same concepts in engine rooms of smaller vessels though

Interesting. They are the sort of parts that in todays day and age should be built to last (say compared similar systems used in the marine industry that last for years and are easily servicable).

Thanks Diablo. I've never had a problem with Bearmach parts either so the cheapskate within is considering the bearmach own brand cylinder for not much more than a tenner. I just detest fitting poor quality parts for things like this so if Lucas is the OEM and I can get that for £20 then maybe thats the option.

Additional (sorry), having delved deeper it seems that I can get the TRW Lucas for about £20 inc VAT (e.g Island4x4 http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-diesel-incl-c-1_2320_2325.html) whereas the Delphi version seems harder to locate and is nearer £40 (but comes with a 2 year warranty - warranties aren't much good to me especially for a master cylinder)

It seems that Bearmach and Allmakes also make cheaper pattern versions too - anyone tried these or will be they be the same quality as the ****part version?

Just looking for a new master clutch cyclinder. I noticed that trawling online there were a couple of options. Does anyone know who the OEM is for the master cylinder? Is it TRW Lucas? I am assuming the cheap (~£10) is the Britpart carp. But then I have also seen branded TRW Lucas and also a Delphi (from Allmakes). I'd rather get the best possible - both are generally between 20 and 20 quid. Any opinions or is it 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Also does the master cylinder gasket come with the cyclinder or should I buy one just in case. I also have a new clutch pedal box asssembly so once I have the master cyclinder I'll be doing both. Can anyine forsee anything else I'll need? Cheers