Pastycrimper

Most interesting - was it complete loss of turbo power or variable depending on speed, gear amount of accelerator et etc?

I'm opting for two jubilee clips. I slide them both on and tighten the outer first which makes the inside clip tighten onto "slacker" hose. Not sure if it will work mind but I think the OP issue is the same as mine.

Thanks all! That's given plenty to occupy the ol man. Cheers

I'm sure there's probably loads of topics on this but normally a new thread to a simple question yields answers quickly. My Dad has sold his tractor which had a very good engine driven compresssor for inflating the tractor tyres. Now this has gone, he recently bought a cheap 12V one which is absolute c**p - really slow but worst off seems to give up the ghost at 24psi. He asked me to ask on here as we figured all the serious off-roaders/expeditioners must use them in earnest. Any recommendations (UK based)? Cheers

I like your style. No holding back there!

I know for the original Lucas (then Marelli) A127 (65A) alternator you can get full refitb kits. Given that Denso now make these (i.e the 65A version). I wonder if the kit will work on the 120A version? It contains new brushes, voltage regulator and diode (rectifier) pack as well as bearings....see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-A127-LUCAS-MARELLI-PRESTOLITE-MARINE-LANDROVER-FORD-/230733271190?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b8c65096 Maybe when you serviced yours you will recognise of the parts are the same. It may well be that the Denso ones have a slightly different internal construction so I can not say whether this service kit will work.

Hmmmm. I think I may be suffering from this. I'm working away from home right now so I cant check at the mo. I'm not sure which EGR blanking kit was used on mine but I think I am losing some boost pressure. I inspected the silicon hoses which themselves are fine so started to conclude that maybe its a sealing issue with the jubillee clips - I'll update when I get home. It presumably would explain additional black smoke at times if extra fuelling is occuring but the boost isn't there???

Great to hear. Given the passion on these forums it really gets to us all when we hear of a stolen Landy - so to hear you've got it back without any major issues just makes everbody on LR4x4s day. Overjoyed for your son. My Dad got me into Landrovers from the age of 6 months and now I have my own after 30 years he knows that the one thing that would destroy me would be to get home from working offshore to find my Landy pinched......can't even bare the thought!

I think this is a good idea - The magnetic "stick" would probably be stronger than the glue to body panel

Thanks for that. Surely if my stat wasn't opening properly then I'd see the issue more often?? I have wondered about the water pump. I actually have a new LR pump to fit when I get time. I'm hoping with that and a new 4-core rad that all my problems should be solved.

Assuming its been bypassed correctly that would be the only downside. I'm assuming that whoever bypassed the VSS left all of the original wiring and just bypassed the VSS. If so then it is probably a poor earth as Western has said. However if the bypasser actually rewired the whole lighting theres a chance that poor quality/insufficient guage wire was used but this wouldn't really explain why they were once bright and know not so much. Bad earths are the cause of so many quirks.

Really sorry to hear this - just infuriating! I keep hearing that the Landrover is the second most stolen vehicle in the UK after the Transit - whether this is true or not I have no idea. As you said, lets hope that some automatic number plate recognition systems pick it up!

CAckshifter - I am inclined to agree with you. Well at least in that I have heard from others with full-width intercoolers that there cooling water temp is not affected. However the ram effect of air in through the front grill must surely be seriously restricted by having a massive IC in front of the cooler. Indeed the "whether you believe the gauge" is fair enough but the fact that my guage stays steady (just below half way) all of the time EXCEPT when I go up hills in 5th I find retty conclusive that I have a noticeable temperature increase but what the precise values are are unkown. This is quite a load on the engine. My Kerb weight is 2.6tonnes so in 5th at 67mph the moment I go up a steep hill thats a lot of work in such a high gear. I guess untill I have fully gone over my cooling system and replaced the radiator I'll wont know for sure. What concerns me is that most landrovers can happily go up hills in 5th without raising their temp. I'd expect such things while twoing or with very heavy loads.

I have the full-width Alisport intercooler on my 300tdi - it was already fitted when I purchased the vehicle. The build quality of the IC is certainly very very good which we should expect given the price of them! I too have huge concerns about covering the rad though. I've found that on motorways and A-roads if I am in 5th gear and go up hills (theres quite a few on the A30 in cornwall) the temperature suddenly rises unless I slow right down sometimes even having to dropinto 4th and take it easy at 50mph which is annoying when I'd quite like to keep purring at 69mph. I have yet to find out whether this temp increase is caused my the ram effect being reduced into the rad when going fast on A-roads. Outside of this she always maintains a steady cool temp so it really concerns me. I may have just a bad rad (it looks OK but other threads on this forum suggest that there can still be bad flow internally. MD Egineering do a 4-core (uprated) version of the LR radiator which I am thinking about fitting. If this doesn't cure my problems then I must assume that it is the full-width causing the overheating issue. I cant figure it out - it seems that most 300tdis run fractionally cool and don't overheat unless there is something seriously wrong. Mine only does this when I have got to the top of a hill - after easing off the temo drops back to normal. This was really frustrating when driving up the M6 on a visit to Scotland last year so I'd be interested in any other input anyone has on this.

There is a squoink but surely if the master cyl was screwed then my clutch wouldn't work?

I don't reckon its either of the cylinders - well there's no sign of fluid leak and as I said the clutch works fine. I'm thinking it may be the pivot - I'll take it out and examine.

Cheers! Well if it isn't a knackered pedal pivot and is the more likely cyclinder issues I'm glad the old baby made it home before totally packing in.

Hmmmpf having been away working for weeks I get home and the ol man has a mission to gather a friends non-road worthy caravan full of stuff using a 3.5t vehicle trailor. She started perfectly after sitting for 6 weeks which was good. Somewhere about 20 miles, after pushing the clutch down and lifting my foot the pedal stayed frimly stuck to the floor. Using the upper foot the pedal could be dislodged back up but this made for awkward gear changes. The pedal sounds pretty creaky but the clutch itself functions fine. I took to just depressing the clutch just past the engaged point but still annoying. Sprayed some WD40 on the spring but hasn't done nought and if fully depressed will stay down. Any clues? Ended up being a testing journey home with a poorly balasted old caravan ona havy trailor on the Cornish hills with a sticky clutch pedal.

Ditto Eightpot comments. No point cutting the trailor wires when that whole pigtail can be easily disconnected from behind the RH lights - just re-trace the wires back from the trailor socket and you'll see clearly which "bundle" it is in the rear connector.

That said I appreciate that living through cold winters may be eased with a thinner oil but in Cornwall it doesn't get cold enough besides I think with a good battery/starter motor & glow plugs cold starting hasn't ever been a problem for me.

I happily use 15W40 (non-synthetic) or often super universal tractor oil and change every 5000m. Much cheaper (especially in quantity) and just as good. IMHO I think the fully synthetics are developed for high performance/tolerance engines designed to have fewer oil changes (like every 20000 miles). However with a landrover or tractor engine (pre-edc) these engines are designed to work very hard in constant use but consequently need their fluid changed regularly - regularly being the key word. Tractors are a benchmark really when you consider the amount fo work those turbo diesels do say ploughing for instance - constant use pulling tonnes for hours at a time yet tractor engines never (rarely) break - they last forever all most. Why? Because farmers change their oil regulalry and also Super Universal Tractor Oil has the same specs - they have to take high EGT etc. I am a very string believer that diesel engines driven properly with regulalr oil/filter changes last a VERY long time. My old Citroen BX (old XUD-9TE engine) had 580000 miles on it before a vicar wrote it off. FYI L/R workshop manual for 300tdi states (1997): Viscosity - 15W40. Spec. - RES.22.OL.PD-2 or CCMC PD-2 or API CD Ziggy

This is my alternative plan - take the whole roller shutter assembly out and the floorpan. I'm thinking of just putting a marine ply wooden box in utilising the bracket fixed to the chassis that holds the floorpan and having a simple wooden side-opeing door. Could also do the same in steel but I have the wood available. The natural curved edge will be broken and it'll look obvious that it's not flush but I quite like the idea and achevable for very little.

I've done that. Dropped my buddy off just outside Exeter Airport, went to restart and nothing. I spent an hour looking over earths and connections - managed to borrow a multimeter off a layby stopper (incredibly fortunate!) and the battery was at 13.1V so all good there. I was livid as I was late for getting home when I noticed the red cut off key sitting in the passenger footwell. I cursed myslef over and pver for the 80 miles home to Penzance. Everbody else laughed.

I'm going to pop into SW Commercials as they sound pretty handy. Tried calling LRSW on the number written on the engine plate but no answer so ended up ringing main UK after sales number waiting an age and then got sent to an answerphone so no update there

As Peter said the Hazard Switch is all part of the same circuit and often overlooked with indicator issues. Failing that it could be your indicator/flasher relay