Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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I've moved my front ones up a little, and my rear ones the top mounts are move forwards a few inches. That gives adequate travel without having the shocks bind up. Unless you're running. Revolver shackles you've no need for any more.
Jon
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Is there anyone going to 7sisters with the shires in a couple weeks time who would be prepared to bring a pair of series hubs back with them to Hampshire for me? As close as possible to Bordon/Farnham would be even better?
Many thanks
Jon
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Yes, they work well, but you need a different bar for alloy wheels.
You don't actually need one however, I do mine simply using a hi lift jack to break the bead and a couple of tyre levers.
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Lambda sensor would be the first thing I'd try.
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Spot on snagged - I've done that too! Suspect that the problem is related to the lever mounts
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IMHO you won't get anywhere especially after that length of time. Bear in mind it may be leaking from somewhere else that won't become apparent until they strip it down.
Did they replace the timing gear that the seal runs on or reuse the old one?
This could also be caused by excessive crankshaft end float, blocked engine breathers, even piston ring blow by, so oil leaking past the seal could potentially be the symptom and not the root cause of the problem.
Jon
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Use the series slave cylinder. Pipe work then remains all standard series. Clutch fixed.
I clocked the compressor housing round on mine by about 30 degrees, as otherwise the pipe work wants to go right through the inner wing. I use the stock disco air filter which sits over the top of the injector pump and made up some brackets to pick up the bolt holes for the air con compressor.
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Yeah just drilled the extra hole and fitted defender wipers.
Jon
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Errr what's abusive about saying rubbish??
Rear prop actually works fine being short because of the way that the series leaf springs work. In all the years I've been running it I've never even changed a uj. It's only a stock 88" rear prop that I cut down. There is no need for long travel props on the back of a series.
Front also clears fine, and no, I'm running series axles. However I do have to admit that the bent to hell series bell housing cross member has long since been cut off and replaced with one cut from a scrap discovey which is a very similar shape, but thick metal and stronger. That may improve clearance a little, but I've never found it a problem. Front prop is a cut down coiler one. Again nothing special. I've gone through a couple of front props, but being as they are only second hand ones anyway it's not a problem.
My truck has more suspension travel the most coilers, and I've checked it many times with a forklift. And I have no problems with propshaft a even at extreme articulation.
I can't comment about trans drum as I've run a disk handbrake since day 1.
Jon
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Rubbish. I have an lt77 and lt230 in my 88" using the stock engine mounts. Yes the gearbox crossmember has to go, but the next one back is still there in the stock position.
Rear prop length is still sensable
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Well worth fitting imho makes it so much nicer to drive
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Oh yes it can if its sucking carp out of the tank!
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No the non return valves are in the pump - that's how it works. Take it apart - you'll probably find its full or carp which is jamming the valves open.
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Agree with what fridge says. You can run 4wd through series axles no problem. I have done for many years. You do just get a bit of feedback through the steering at full lock but it's not too bad.
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Roll cage kinda makes it hard to show.....
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300 tdi wont bolt to a series gearbox.
Fit a 200tdi and it will bolt straight up to the series gearbox and will bolt straight on to the series engine mounts.
R380 is about 4" longer so mounts will have to move. It's easier to move the gearbox mounts in my opinion.
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Front uses late lwb 24spline outer shafts. Rear uses kam 24 spline uprated shafts.
Arbs front and rear with kam 4.75 r&ps and pegged diffs.
Disk breaks all round.
PAS using a defender box.
Jon
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Nope running series axles.
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I've had both.
However I've long since ditched the series transfer box and fitted the lt230. Mines permanent 4wd, I wouldn't bother with the 2wd conversion.
I would never go back to the series transfer box. The lt230 is quiet for starters.....
Jon
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Looks like a tmax
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I'd say it's just the same as what is it with US companies refusing to ship things to the UK. Does my head in....
Jon
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Lwb or SWB series?
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No idea what the gear ratio is. However speed is dependant upon which gear you are in and engine rpm, so therefore really and truly the gear ratio also changes as you change gear.
Max pulling power is governed by what size shear pin you put in the pto, but as most tend to just put a high tensile bolt in there really isn't a quoted rating. Suffice to say it is enormous!
These winches will pull all day long so long as your engine is running, as there is no motor etc to get hot. They will pull a house down, but they are slow.......frustratingly slow.....because of this it becomes impossible to drive assist with one of these winches - you have to run the transfer box in neutral. Spooling cable back in after winching is painfully slow also.
They are incredibly heavy, and spares are unavailable so make sure that you have all the parts, including all the pto rods, centre bearings etc.
I used to have one of these winches, but sold it in eventually and replaced it with an Uprated warn 8274. I wouldn't go back to the mayflower.
Jon
Insa Turbo Special Track 285/75 R16
in International Forum
Posted
I run these tyres in that size. Just measured mine at 32". That's on a swb series at 25 psi.