Jon White
-
Posts
2,541 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
What do you hope to gain with a soa conversion?
You will not gain articulation, nor will you gain ground clearance.
However what you will gain is instability, poor handling, even worse spring wrap and an appetite for driveline components.
Jon
-
Satin black out of a rattle can looks correct, and is what I used on mine.
Jon
-
Got a posh decarbon one on mine at the moment (cos it came on a disco that I was was breaking). I can notice no difference whatsoever over the cheapo oil filled one it replaced.
Jon
-
You'll find it is considerably cheaper just to replace them with new ones.
Jo
-
How about mud wrestlers?
-
You're over complicating things.......the sleeves tap on quite easily (always use a new one) just find a suitable bit of pipe and tap it on until you can get the circlip in place. No need for anything more scientific than that. I've done loads like this....
Jon
-
Bit of tube and a hammer.....
-
FFS you don't learn do you Barker?
-
I have no idea what the correct procedure is for a golf, but to me it sounds like you may not have completely bled all the air out of the cooling system and have an air lock somewhere.
Did you possibly miss a bleed screw or something?
Jon
-
Didn't that guy who killed several of his kids after crashing his 110 into water get prosecuted too for an unroadworthy vehicle that had been poorly maintained and poorly modified? Can't remember his name now......
-
The above is a good point. I was chatting to Simon from x-eng a whole back, and this was precisely the reason he never marketed a disk brake conversion - his insurers flatly refused to cover it. They were happy to cover the disk hand brakes however as they were not the main service brake.
In addition as I have posted in the past this is the reason why I won't post precise details of how I did my conversion.
Jon
-
The 2 wires to the vr sensor are the wrong way round - one way round it works, the other way round it doesn't!
Jon
-
This has been covered at length on here many times in the past. The search button is your friend.
Mine is the one that Tonk and I developed years ago. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22910&p=232683
All the info you need is in the old posts on the forum somewhere.....the rest you'll have to work out but it's not hard to make something that more or less bolts on, and yes mine allows you to fit a standard wheel.
Jon
-
1
-
-
BCB off road in the states used to market exactly this - a series outer swivel housing that was specifically made to use defender disks and calipers.
There are easier ways to do it as someone has said. I made my own conversion using wilwood calipers, which bolt up to an un modified series swivel housing.
Bear in mind that a new wilwood caliper, that comes from the factory with stainless pistons etc, can be had for about the same money as a re con landrover one.
Jon
-
Use the lt230 mounts. You'll have to chop the series mourns off the chassis, then drill the chassis for the lt230 mounts to suit and weld tubes in to stop the box sections from being crushed.
It's not a bolt in job and will require some fabrication.
Jo
-
Bulkhead is steel as is the chassis. I'd be very surprised if you ended to weld any aluminium parts.
Might make an interesting project, and your best bet on the bulkhead would be to cut out the rot and fabricate repair sections. It's all flat panels so pretty easy to repair.
Mechanically they're pretty simple and parts availability is good for mechanical parts.
Jon
-
Lmfao @ fridge freezer!
Bonnet spare wheel is ok if you're still running 6.00s, but for anything bigger restricts vision far too much, and make the bonnet soooooo heavy to lift......
IMHO the best place for the spare is inside against the bulkhead - there are brackets available in a standard landrover part no.
I'm not a fan of mounting wheels on the rear door either, as it knackered the rear door, but also makes the rear door so heavy - if you open the door with the truck parked facing uphill it damn near flattens you as it opens!
I've tried all positions and mine has lived inside the truck for years now.....
-
That's a pretty much big standard ex military lightweight, with a stock 2.25 petrol engine. It was an FFR so has the shielded ignition leads. The hardtop and rear door have been retro fitted and are just standard civilian parts.
About typical rust for the ago. Not beyond saving, but it's not worth a great deal, and frankly isn't worth an awful lot in parts either.
I'd offer scrap money and negotiate from there. It's neither rare, nor particularly desirable. lightweights are a bit like marmite - you either love em or hate em! (I hate em) I understand that some parts (especially bulkheads) are now getting extremely hard to find.
Jon
-
I have a mikuni my30 in mine fitted in the same place as fridge has his.
I keep meaning to put some air ducting on it to duct the air somewhere more useful but still havnt got round to it....
-
A Fairy overdrive would be a lot easier to fit and that will give an extra 27% as well as eight usable forward ratios (well, a few less as the lower ones are not much use).
Alternatively, but probably a bit late for you, put a 200 Tdi in without the turbo; My 109 with that engine and the overdrive does an easy 60 MPH
I still cannot fathom out why anyone even considers fitting a 200tdi without the turbo........it's not hard to fit and make it all work, and I even go the opposite and tweek the boost and fueling up even more over stock.......
Jon
-
Can't remember the lt230 to be honest, but the lt77 one is huge, and the one on my 200tdi is huge too - uses 1 1/8" af spanner to undo.....
Depending on what you use your truck for I would be inclined to find somewhere other than the drain plugs to put sensors into as they'd be very vulnerable to damage off road otherwise.
Jon
-
Yes it's a bolt in swap.
You'll find it will kill your acceleration completely. 2.5 naturally gasping was never a good engine, and won't pull the skin off a rice pudding.....
It'll change the gearing by about 30%
Jon
-
Well I can confidently tell you that none of them will fit cos none of them are big enough!
Jon
-
Steering relay on mine was a piggy to get out!
Jacked front wheels off the ground, with a strop around the jack and cross member also and pumped the jack till I could no longer move the handle. Used the head of a pick axe shoved into a 6 foot scaff bar as a really big pry bar, and beat the **** out of the relay with a sledge hammer. After two days of fighting it finally came out.
It would actually have been an easier job to replace the front crossmember and leave the relay in it!
Jon
Prop-Crossmember clearance when lifting a 109"
in Series Forum
Posted
Ought to upload that photo to the scary steering website! Drag link like that is flipping lethal!