Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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Very curious!!!!!!
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Can't see a problem with moving it from the stalk to the dash as this is how many new vehicles are today.
I did wonder if something like this might be better than a rocker switch though?
Gives you the fogs on the same switch too?
Should be easy enough to locate a scrap one with wiring attached and away you go, should be a simple enough project to wire it in
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A manually controlled vnt can be a budget option - I can't imagine a supercharger install being anything other than expensive ?
Not sure I entirely agree with that as some of the S/H VNT turbos over here are getting on for 75% the cost of a reconditioned unit circa €350~450 and I have seen easy install superchargers trading around €650.
It just seems almost as easy (in my mind only!!) that if a VNT draws HP and costs fuel then for the same result supercharging may be a different avenue worth exploring?
I do get the whole "on a budget" thing but can long term higher running costs negate any advantages over wastegate turbos?
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Assuming your sums are correct, how would a manually controlled VNT stack up against a super charger for that type of power consumption? It seems pointless to spend on creating power with inherent down falls with power spikes and such when you can do it all the same with a super charger?I don't think the difference is negligible. My TGV makes 15psi of boost all the time, even in light cruise. My 200tdi makes almost no boost in the same situation. As already mentioned, the TGV has a simple mechanical boost controlled VNT. It's adequate, but it will never be more than that. It suffers some boost spikes and surging, but nothing you can't live with.
Back of fag packet sum says a 2.8 engine at 2000rpm consumes 280 cfm of air,
A quick google suggests 0.05hp/cfm to compress it to 1 atm, so a total of 14hp consumed.
There are some huge assumptions and error margins here, but that's much more than 10% extra power (probably more like 20%) required to maintain cruise. Cruise doesn't usually make up a huge amount of total fuel consumption, certainly not as much as we'd all like, but enough to not be negligible.
I think my TGV was around 10-15% worse on fuel consumption than the 300tdi it replaced, on the same 100mile/day commuter run, which seems to fit nicely with the numbers above - or did I get my sums wrong?
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Can't be Land Rover as the stud pattern is all wrong.
Agreed those are 6 studs but the add for these quotes 5 stud and pcd 5x165, so they would fit!!
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Would a 'mechanical computater' (ok, I made that up!) work?
What I was thinking is the VNT needs to be controlled by two (or more) factors. Say boost pressure and throttle position (or any other combination).
If you were to attach the VNT to the middle of a toggle and the ends of the toggle to a boost diaphragm and throttle for example, the VNT position would be the average of the two. Moving the VNT attachment off centre will bias its action to one or the other input.
If more control is required, you could make two cams which overlap one another and a roller which sits in the V between the two cams. Then by changing the shape of the cams, the VNT can be 'programmed' to respond to the two inputs. You could even make the cams out of 6mm steel bar, which you can bend by hand - then you could 'program' it in the field!
Effectively, this gives you the same degree of control as a microcontroller - if in a slightly more Analogue manor - more in keeping with a Land Rover!
Si
Like that idea Si, gives a throttle response as opposed to a vacuum response which would be more in keeping with the electronics of modern ones.
Will see how complicated the flashmantv black box is.
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A rumor on another forum says that the Camel Trophy also had the first generation KIA trucks as contenders as the competition trucks, not sure about that though but the rimms would fit a jap motor better than a Fender and day!
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Were you plugged into a long ext lead? as voltage drop can be significant with a welder
cheers
Steveb
Oh dear
My big lead was busy with the water pumps after the flooding on Christmas day and I only had to hand the medium lead, it's heavy enough for most things but the welder is a mighty beast and hungry for current!!!
When the waters have receded a bit more I will do a few more test pieces on the side of the bench to see what differences are.
Just for those that are wondering what I mean, this is what I was greeted by on Christmas morning in my barn.
Yes that is water in front and all around my straw stocks
OK lets see how bad it is else where, open up the back barn doors.....
Oh FFS!!!!! But my new barn doors look good that I made last week
Right now to take SWMBO to work....
Yes that will be the road outside my house flooded
What a bad start to Christmas day, thank god it got better
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It was a couple of patches on the sills the same as I did on Rusty last week and it turned out ok but today it was like pigeon droppings, looked like my chickens had been under there with a case of the squits
I did put the opposite side up on ramps to get it easier but not really a great help.
I needed to be confident of weld strength which is why I kind of left the amps high, prep was good and area was cut out and flapped back with 40 grit sandy discs, new plate was sanded back and wiped with acetone to remove grease, sorry but no pics as still can't find the camera, just wondering what else I could have done
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Shame it ain't a lefty at that price could have had a buyer for it right now
Lefties as good as that trade at half as much again over here and more
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Has anyone here got any special tips to offer up to try to get this going better, I have been practicing but I tell ya, if anything I seem to be getting worse not better at it!
Is is wire speed? Amps? Am I not using the correct technique?
been looking for a vid or two on the tube but all I can say is that if I need to do just a couple of passes once in a while it looks ace, but if I need to do a fair but like today on a mates truck I can't weld for the life of me upside down, vertical no problem horizontal no problem but upside down today just is not working and getting tired of the burns too!!
Help me out fellas
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Ooooh!! That FJ45 P/up truck is the bomb
Now that is simply tasteful and enhanced unlike the Fender!!! It could still be used as a full utility truck too, shame JLR couldn't have brought something forth in such a package that was rugged but affordable and easily maintained and cheaply fixed but also afforded warmth, comfort and security. -
Sorry but I am struggling to find any type of "style" "elegance" or "beauty" in that hideous incarnation!!!!
I am appalled that these folk are supposed to be creating a one off bespoke vehicle that you want to be noticed in, but I have a feeling the way in which you WILL be noticed is different to the way you WANT to be noticed.
PIMP my ride daddy "O"
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Yes, you may not even notice it gone either.
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I saw a set not so long back in Holland when part shopping, sorry but not impressed, the welding looked horrid, probably strong enough but it was not aesthetically pleasing at all.
If you are gonna do the Mach 5 look, buy Mach 5s and pay the price for quality, this in my opinion is a BP part in the making,(love BP but truth hurts I'm afraid)
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I'll buy you a virtual pint if you post some piccies
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You are doing it with two people aren't you? Otherwise, any air will move Iike you describe as the pedal moves back and forth.
Not if you use something like a washer pipe one way valve, there are some out there that use a sprung brass ball and cup type thing too.
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They look more like "wideboy" zuke vitara rims TBH
Looking for something concrete as to whether they were genuine part though as may be collectible????
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Did LR make alloys for any of the Camel trophy vehicles at all?
Seen these advertised on the www.
Anyone shed some light on whether they could be genuine?
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Def 90 with good file of bills for everything if you are going to service it yourself or a FSH will of course in time to come have a very appreciable resale value as soon as production stops watch the prices rise of even the tattiest tat!!!
Although you can bet a 90 will be worth more than a 110 of same age and service quality too as it still has "Rugged, Must have bling" attached to it" in the form of being seen in a chelsea tratter.
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Sorry Chris but not entirely sure what you are referring to as a "light bar"?
I assume you mean high level brake light or are you talking about LED lighting bars?
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it should bleed out now with the new mod I would have thought?
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Cable is to keep it attached to the car in case the rubber center breaks and it were to fall off, no prob in city traffic but on the motorway that would be lethal if it fell off at 70MPH it weighs something like 4lb so good chance it might kill if the cable were not there!!!
Oil soaking is usually engine / diff related.
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Dash being out is no big deal, had mine out on my 200Tdi a few times now, if you need help working out what goes where post up and can point you in the right direction.
Sounds almost too good to be true a rust free Disco!!
Road going rally LRs
in International Forum
Posted
That looks about the most amount of fun you can have with your clothes on!!!!