Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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My god what a palava!!!
good to know you are back up and running in her.
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Close, when I weighed my 3door in it was 360Kgs light iron, it is amazing how much the interior weighs, the sound deadening is very heavy especially when wet!!!
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Unless you got no win no fee then be careful if you wanna go to court with it!!!
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It may be one of the cheap triangulation things that simply tries to plot your position between masts as the ones I fitted were a bit bigger than that and spot on in showing exatly where on my farm my machine is.
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I find it amazing how low the prices are now, the tech and such that goes into them is quite high but they really have dropped in price, just a shame like all things, they can be bypassed.
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Is it not the bell housings that are different lengths?
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So much so I have now opened the Whiskey bottle.
OK OBA to be brought forwad of locking diff. The comparable cost of installing OBA is the same as a cheap leccy compressor that might/might not fully inflate 4X 235/85 16 tyres.
Glad I asked though.
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Like that
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No the PCD is wrong the older wheels have a wider ring for the wheel nuts, there are spacers I believe available but cost you a pretty penny though!!!
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I have learned and acquired an abundance of patience these last years as I have been busy rebuilding the Disco, but want to drive it more than work on it now.
I suppose I could gather all the bits together and replace the crank pulley for the A/C type with the extra "V" in it when I do the timing case next week and the rest should go on easy enough, just need a tap to open up the exhaust port on the compressor to take 1/2" fittings and could even put it on a PLC fitting and a switch for the beginning but never been one to leave things half done hence wanting to make a propper build of it.
We shal see.
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Ok lets not miss a vital piece of info, the pressure drop is only by half so say it is 80liters per tyre I only need 40 as I have only dropped half the volume, so by those calculations which are way above my farmers type brain it can only do 2 tyres max or raise them all upto around 1.5BAR which would be adequate to get back to civilisation and a garage with compressor.
Unless I resort to one of the electric compressors in the back next the tanks until the OBA with A/C compressor is installed.
Answered my query though
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looks like an excuse to fit a roll cage if ever I saw one
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Was puzzling this today at work, but if I have my air tanks fitted up in advance of the OBA and fill them to the max pressuure of 10BAR how much air do I actually have in them?
Tanks being 2X 6L
I was wondering if it would be enough to let me air down the 235/85s to say 15psi then back up to 30?
Any ideas?
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My build thread looks bare as I have exceeded band width quota,
Still amazing work Mike, when you looking to have her on the road by???
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there are quite a few videos of WW2 tanks being recovered, mostly they use dozers and multiple leg snatch blocks using the traction of the dozer combined with gearing from the pulleys and cables to pull them out.IIRC it was a Komatsu Dozer that pulled it out with traction not the winch. Tank was remarkably well preserved seeing it lay in that swamp for 60 years or so.
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Solution is to spend some wedge and dredge
It is a shame but as the nice county councils are hell bent on closing any legal byways and limiting off road play then the macho moron types will play where and when they can.
Sorry but that's the way it goes, not condoning it but JMHO.
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Don't look too bad but like I say, the devil is in the detail!!
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Think you might be better saying its for your Disco (if it is of course ) or everyone will post pics of there Defender install, which will be totally different
Not really vehicle specific entirely as need ideas to create my own design but not being sure of what others have done I am at a loss.
I have drawn out a couple of possibles but it is details and finer points to be looking for, things like clipping individual cables to secure or whether to sheath them as a pair and clip them in a bundle, the wires have to pass through into the engine compartment, what looks better? One big grommet or two individual holes and gromets?
Looking for ideas on what others have done and it's hard going searching through build threads looking for installs as it seems a lot of people gloss over that part.
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Looking for inspiration here as it is all fitted up and I'm very happy with it, pics to follow in my build thread soon.
But wiring, now, yes it came with cables that will be long enough to reach both battery trays and will go to the reserve battery tray as we are having a separate battery for all aux and non essential running electricals, but it's the routing and connections I want to see, what about grommets and holes and isolators?
So who wants to show off their install to inspire me?
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Am up in Abergloom two days this week so you never know, I might get lucky...
Matt
Don't let your wife read your posts
Back on topic
I found the longer 4 function ones more practical and bought a set for the Disco as I am going to build the back bumper myself and want to build them into it.
They really weren't cheap though at €112 per unit!!!
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I have in the past defended Britpart, and as far as certain parts go I will continue, but on safety critical items I think that owners need to take responsibility too, yes they have an obligation to provide a part that is as described and serviceable, but any part that is less than a third of the price of a genuine part simply cannot be an identical part or even close, I think Daan nailed it with the seal comment, yes Corteco are good but still not as good as genuine.
The guy from BP was a bit of a numpty, but I see both sides, we all want top quality but at the cheapest price but nobody wants to pay genuine prices for genuine parts, where would they start even if they were to try to begin dialogue here? Would everyone just fob it off as excuses?
Don't fit much of their stuff on my own Disco and have spent a lot of money with Land Rover Hasselt buying genuine parts, why? Because I want my truck to do it's job day in day out, it will be my daily driver soon and it will be my recreational vehicle too, I will continue to buy genuine parts too as breakdowns must be avoided at all costs, quality costs I need quality and understand the equation, seems a shame that so many others believe the hype of aftermarket part suppliers saying they give the "same" quality as genuine but at a fraction of the price, bit like believing in the tooth fairy after waking up as mum puts the pound under your pillow really.
Ultimately the buck stops with you as an owner as to the quality of your parts.
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Interested in this as looked at them previously and put on the plan/wish list, as part of the improvements for running light most of the time but when it gets loaded heavy it will be heavy so the adjustability would be an asset if they worked as they should?
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Most likely to be a worn plastic gear in the motor assembly, they wear with age and replacements are readily available new and S/H, if buying S/H you need to see it in person to check for wear not just the cheapest on ebay as you just waste money that way. Might go against your grain but genuine parts will give you the best service life as they did last ten years! Expect half that life span from aftermarket parts.
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I bought two about a year ago, spot on everytime, just took me forever to get it set up propperly without it spending money texting me at every start up, good value and it survived a year bouncing around in the machine so money I hope well spent.
Replacement parts and continuing problems
in International Forum
Posted
But the question must be "how legally binding is that statement"???
It cannot be marketed as a replacement part for X that will do the job and is a like for like replacement and then have a clause that states that it is not fit for the intended purpose of replacing part X but you can buy and fit it anyway.
Suppose a bit like condoms, they state "not 100% safe against X,Y & Z" in their terms and conditions
Any legals out there who could shead some light on how binding or not their clause is?