Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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What tensile strength bolts should I get to refit the winch bumper on the D1?
When I removed the old ones I was bemused to find two of them were 8mm thread rod
So need to get some new ones long enough for the winch bumper, A bar and bash plate, but what strength would be best suited to this application? -
Stolen from the dark side but I actually like it
Some may have other ideas
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271324117821?roken=59xxEV&clk_rvr_id=550711833687
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Joachim basically re brands Britpart as BCP products, a great many parts come in blue bags and have BCP labels on
also Britpart "ARE" OEM part supplier as they bought up some businesses that produced those parts.Not sure if this part is available from Bearmach who have a better reputation for quality.
Only way to actually get correct part is to pay a lot at the main dealer and for something like that it is the best thing to do!
Sorry I know it hurts but klein geld = slecht product!!!!
Grtz
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Not that I know of as I recall it coming as part of the satellite switches when I got a set for a mate.
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Preferably using different colours of wire for positive & negative!
Knew I should have expected that from you
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In an effort to try to get everything working I am now tackling the electrical stuff that is under the bonnet, I say stuff as some of this is additional add on's and not fitted by me so therefore I don't know if it works or whether it is wired up correctly (a lot of previous repairs and work done on this truck is of questionable standard).
This is a pic of the filter housing and the wires to the fuel pre-heater.
I am not really interested on how it is wired up currently but how it "should" be wired up. Should it work in common with the glow plug relay? Should it have a timer relay of it's own? What should be the trigger for it?
Any ideas, the net just yields new ones for sale and no instructions on how it should be wired in.
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Glad to hear he is heading for home, should see him back in active service in a day or so.
Stay safe out there HfH, will be needing your diff building services in the new year
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Suppose it just comes down to realistic costs, we all love Land Rovers here and it is simple, buy the one you want and we are all here to help you keep it on the road with advice and tips.
But then there is the cost side of it, not a cheap vehicle to run and keep running unless you spend quite a substantial amount in your base vehicle that needs next to nothing bar basic servicing to start you off, the less you spend on the base vehicle the money quickly goes on repairs and upkeep just keeping it mobile.
I recently walked away from the Holy Grail of Discoveries, a Camel Trophy truck and a genuine one at that, the mist was up and I wanted it, but came to my senses when poking around it an it was a big bump when I hit the ground and actually saw it for what it was, just another tired and rotten Discovery with a roll cage and not a straight rot free panel on it.
If you really want one then buy a good one, unmolested examples are not cheap but far better than a badly abused cheapie that costs more in the long run.
There is a lot of help to be had here with advice on where and what to look for when viewing vehicles, best of luck with your search.
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Those who are concerned about such things eventually give up on the green oval and end up buying Japanese.
That is true enough, I know a guy locally who just got rid of his TD5 90 after it being parked up in the corner of the yard for a year and having been replaced by an older Pajero, the logging transporter says it was nothing more than a money pit, cost him €15,000 to buy and it spent most of the time broke down, only had 80,000 Kms on the clock too, head, manifolds, turbo, fuel pressure regulator, ECU expired, fuel pump, diff in the back axle, and the final straw was the dreaded back fire, he recons it cost him more than €6000 to keep it on the road during the 3yrs of ownership until he saw sense, year on, Pajero needs only a service every 6000 kms(about every month to 6 weeks the way they use it) and just keeps ticking along.
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Sorry read back my previous posts and I was probably not very specific but you are one of the very, very few surviving set ups of this kind as I usually only saw them on Range Rovers, never really knew what it was all about until this thread came up.
When and if I need new calipers I will swap everything out for a single pipe set up as the dual pipe system that is on mine offers nothing more especially when compared with your set up where it is almost failure proof.
But if you put both my posts together it should make sense
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Yes and you do it this way, top nipple and inside nipple together and outside nipple on its own, if that makes sense?
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Thanks guys. The normal way I can do. B-)
It's the dual feed front calipers non ABS I am enquiring about.
The way I described worked perfectly on a 1992 Disco with twin pipe calipers and without ABS
There ain't nothing so special about them, just fluid galleries between the two halves.
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For Disco's it normally works back axle either side then front right and then front left, as front right is where the bias and "T" is off for the rear axle circuit, that is how I did the last two and it worked out ok.
Can't find it on my CD at the moment but will look up correct method as per LR.
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I am obviously wrong about this and it is the best thing to have ever happened to the guy and the truck.
I think we all see things from a different perspective, this is what makes us individuals, but you all look at it from the cozy seat of having what you want already and anything else is a bonus and easy money.
I look at it from the point of view as I have almost nothing, just bare essentials to get me through life but skills enough to bring my own project back to life, I bought a project simply because I didn't have enough money to buy a runner, it could be argued that I should have saved harder but I managed to get my project for 1/3 the cost of a runner that within the next 2~3 yrs will see the same work need doing, nobody told me I had to buy a project but you do what you can afford to do.
I see it as unbelievable from a position where by a win like that would have given me a truck to get around in, a truck to go out and drive as opposed to spending months welding and wiring, and it could have well been the same for someone else too, it could have meant the end of worries come MOT time and fear of the next big parts bill essential to keep it on the road, but this guy didn't need it nor did he actually want it, his own words of describing it as "not practical" says he just wanted it for what it was worth.
Yes it may have been fitted with BP stuff but it does not have any rot and is a very clean motor with a lot of life left in it, unlike some sheds I have seen advertised that are barely what it says on the log book, maybe you guys need to look above your hatred for BP, and just look at the base motor for what it is, a Defender 110.
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I was just about to suggest reverse bleeding as I always found it rather impossible trying to force the air almost vertically down when it wants to go up all the time, clutch bleeding is reverse bleed only operation for me these days.
Find it really helps on brakes too, just not ones with ABS.
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Thing is the PAS box was never meant for turning anything above 32", 7.50 was biggest tyre size from standard as far as I know, so the taller and wider they are the more stress you put on the PAS box and pop!!
I have wondered previously what would be a stronger box to upgrade to in terms of handling silly sized tyres???
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Never seen it before but I do know that later PAS boxes have got an aluminium top cover with bearing inserts and the older types have a cast steel one, cold be that you have an aluminium one and turning the 37s is too much pressure for it? there is only a short length of shaft from the worm roller to the bearing but a lot of power being pushed upwards as the worm tries to rotate the wheel.
Maybe a steel one would solve this but it does point out a weakness when running tyres that size!!
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Must be just me then
But why enter if you have no intentions of keeping it? It would have been better to let someone who does actually want it to have won it.
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The proud winner of the Sealey Defender from the competition in LRO is so grateful and happy with being so bleeding lucky he has decided to sell it
Most of us would give almost anything to win a prize like that and he is selling it.
Never been a real lover of Defenders but come on, one in a million chance and he just sells it to get some cash in his pocket.
Or am I being over zealous again
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possible but also sounds like rod through the arm.
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I have a black book detailing all the alterations and new part No.s for the upgraded parts and in that is a photo copy of the CoC, reg doc and currently expired keuringbewijs, all will be brought up to date and correct photocopies will be put in the little plastic slip I stuck in the front cover when I had a blue peter moment.
For the consumption I will get an app to go on the tablet to keep an eye on that, I did start to do an excel spreadsheet with costs so far but abandoned that about 3 months ago when I hit the €3000 euro mark, decided that I no longer needed to know how much was being spent just as long as I knew the new part numbers for future replacements,
I do know a guy who has it as bad as you Tet, he has everything you do and also does a tyre depreciation chart too
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Sorry to bring this back up but having a part number issue, my parts catalog says NTC9400 for my 92 MY but paddocks and all other suppliers state NTC6125 based on VIN No.
Anyone actually changed one on a 92MY Discovery that can tell me the part No. they used, already having discussions with LR parts about my request for "antique" parts and last thing I want to do is fall out with them again over getting the wrong one in and having to change it.
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I had a similar experience with a RRC once and was too busy at work to actually do the welding, needed "PATCHING" on the sills and same on inner wings, this I think before the days of YRM propper panels.
Quote went at £400 for the "patching" work and the rest I would do at home, light bulbs and such.
Ended up with a bill of £1250 after it was all done as it happens one thing lead to another and another and so on, ended up with full new sills and full new inner wings bent up in their panel shop, very impressive work but it was 2 1/2X what I paid for it, she stayed with me for a long time after that and was eventually sold on for £2500 once I had finished retro fitting all leather seats and new audio throughout.
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yeah, but what is it?
Supposedly a unimog
So need to get some new ones long enough for the winch bumper, A bar and bash plate, but what strength would be best suited to this application?
also Britpart "ARE" OEM part supplier as they bought up some businesses that produced those parts.
The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
Looking in the front window there appears to be a tax disc showing but can't zoom in on this thing to see it clearly, worth a mail Bowie to see how it stands, I have never in my life seen a tub as long as that though and perhaps two or three parking spaces needed in Tesco's
Buy it now you know you want to