Nigelw
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Posts posted by Nigelw
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@Escape - thanks, I guess there's no such thing as a silly question.
I just rejected a full set of massive & nearly new BFGoodrich AT 32's for $900 coz i wasnt sure if the drive train could cope with the higher gearing. That would be cheaper than set of new 245/70 tyres - maybe I should buy the big feet.
Any fears/concerns on fitting such big tyres?
Buy them I know you'll like them
Onlything you then need to do is re-calibrate your speedo,yeah they are a little bit taller but you won't really notice it unless you are rushing and in a hurry when you are driving, you will appreciate the extra diff clearance too
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Just discussing this with my GF and she asked a sensible question "if they did so much work on the engine why not make it a 4.6? surely top of the range is better than middle of the road?" And that is from a woman's perspective LOL
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Shame on them for doing that to it!!!
I did see an air brushed jobby at a show a good few years ago it looked the dogs danglies but this just looks horrible!
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I am having a similar issue but with the fact that I can no longer get the General AT2 in the size I need and needing two new tyres on the rear for the Autokeuring I am having to replace all four due to not being able to get two of the correct size and brand to match the front pair, luckily it is on a D1 with a manual locking diff but it won't have done it any good having two completely worn out tyres on the back(they are not actually road legal at all, I would get better traction from drawing tread on them with a permanent marker)
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Body mounts are located....
Front cross member X2
In front of foot wells in bell mouth of transfer tunnel X2
Bottom of "A" pillars X2
Either side of transfer box on the inside of the chassis rails X2
Bottom of "B" pillars X2
(strictly this is not a mounting but the boot floor is connected to the chassis via the seat bealt mounting lugs, can and will hang you up if you are not aware of them)
Rear cross member X2
I cut the inner wings and front panels off first and then removed the rest whole. It is easy enough but if you can get a gas axe and cut the bolts off and makes light work of slicing and dicing a chassis and A BARE body shell too(know you probably would strip it first but I did highlight bare as the interior needs stripped out first, smokes a lot otherwise)
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Drawing air or fuel starvation? We had a Bombadier with a Rotax lump in it and it was a whoore of a thing for the fuel starvation if used on full chat for more than a few feet, fitted an electric fuel pump and problem solved, might be totally different for yours though!!
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Poor starting and high consumption suggests to me that maybe the pump timing maybe out? Have you done the cam belt or has it been done recently? I ask as I was asked to look at a neighbors Defender with poor starting and the cam belt had stretched enough to alter pump timing as well as cam timing too!!! he's changing that now, but what about valve clearances too are they acceptable or does she seem tappety at all?
Check and if need be change the intake hoses/gaskets, also worth checking the intake pipe is not being drawn flat through the suction of the turbo, excessive smoke should be a give away but you never can tell.
Tyre pressures worth a look too.....
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Which pipe? There are three that go to the PAS box Mike
I have all of them on my bench at the mo so if you tellme which one I will post you a pic of it.
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it was a 3.9 V8 petrol from the 300Tdi series, I did offer most of it on the for sales board here but no takers even for the engine auto box and LT230 transfer ended up near on giving them away!!!
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TBH I broke my V8 300Tdi series a few months ago, still got most of it, and wish I had just scrapped the whole thing!! I did keep the doors as I might trash one of mine and the seats and interior but they have gone into my project car to replace the burnt interior that was in it(and because I NEVER liked the blue) so beige it is now.
But wings always sell as do straight front and rear bumpers, I am doing this right now, I have advertised all of the rest (window ECU, heater matrix & blower box, and other stuff) on ebay and buyer collects otherwise tip or scrap, don't hang on to it long as it trips you up in the end by taking up space!!!
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Somebody save this poor thing please!!!!
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Don't see why not? With the head off you could go as far as using a dial gauge on the piston to show TDC and really be spot on with the timing.
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I did my last one over 2 days as I wanted to do lots of cleaning up of the engine, not so bad a job and did not brake a thing(highly unusual for me LOL) Done a few before but it had been a while, just triple check you have everything before you start to pull it apart.
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Have not yet completed a kilometer in my 200Tdi D1
But having an ultra economical Peugeot Partner van as my run around is a big help, you know this thing does 3.5 liters/100kms which in old money is around 80mpg!!! I drive with economy in mind too which helps keep my costs down!!!
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Have not yet completed a kilometer in my 200Tdi D1
But having an ultra economical Peugeot Partner van as my run around is a big help, you know this thing does 3.5 liters/100kms which in old money is around 80mpg!!! I drive with economy in mind too which helps keep my costs down!!!
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My interest in alternative engines has come from thoughts of a new project vehicle in time to come, I am going to keep the 200Tdi Disco as standard as possible to negate issues with the MOT here but as there are similar SVA type rules here I fully intend to build a one off special to keep my wallet empty and my hands busy in the winter LOL
I have always been a petrol head and would kill for a brand new THL X bolted 4.6 THOR but realistically it won't happen as they are rare as rocking horse poo over here and even then by the time I have faffed around getting it here from the UK with exchange rates etc, I could have bought a S/H cummins/perkins/isuzu engine and had mating it up to drive train professionally done!!!
But what of the 2.8 liter lump from Iveco the same as fitted in the santana? Any good or pile of doggy doo?
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Anyone used these window regulators for the D1 made by Allmakes?
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/window-regulator-front-8995-rtc3814-p-4338.html
Seems like a good price, just wondered if they were worth fitting or find something better?
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do wish sellers would read their advert before posting it, that reads as though no effort has been put into it, doesn't bode well for the engine.
But I don't understand......
I thought all PCs and laptops came with a spell checker?
Depends on how the turbo "let go" as to whether or not the head has to come off to remove the potential metal fragments loitering in the bores and in the head/ inlet manifold, pics of it hanging off a couple of head bolts might put me off buying it too LOL
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do wish sellers would read their advert before posting it, that reads as though no effort has been put into it, doesn't bode well for the engine.
But I don't understand......
I thought all PCs and laptops came with a spell checker?
Depends on how the turbo "let go" as to whether or not the head has to come off to remove the potential metal fragments loitering in the bores and in the head/ inlet manifold, pics of it hanging off a couple of head bolts might put me off buying it too LOL
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does too but I am more impressed by the rear bumper and nicely cut bottom rear quarter panel!!
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How sad am I, thinking about this thread in the bath last night and I remembered a lot of folk looking at the Germans for this fiasco, but after having had a good friend over for a few weekends to fix up his rotting and oil leaking Disco, I learned a lot more about how the German TUV actually works, ok it is is a little bit stricter than the MOT in Britain but they do things a bit differently, their TUV is every 2yrs not every year, there are no such silly rules as we have here regarding tyre sizes and speed ratings so much the same as the UK there, a brand new car has it's first TUV after 4yrs on the road and is tested and recorded as it is, so the UK is tighter there then!!! There are a few more things as well but my head is still fuzzy from fighting with the stallions but when it comes back will post it on.
But it does look as though the Germans will loose out if it goes through!!!
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I've got one :-)
The 4bd1t is a totally different engine family to the 4jg2t (3.1).
They are Much bigger, closer to the dimensions of a 300tdi, just a little heavier.
Gear driven cam, injection pump and power steering pump. Cross flow direct injection head.
And they were designed with an exhaust brake so they are spec'd to take 40psi of back pressure in the exhaust manifold and safe egt's of 1200°c
OMG with the dimensions being so similar then this would be a better choice of engine for Disco RRC owners then? Power wise it is on par with the 300Tdi with 111HP but I can't help thinking that there are distinct gains to be had from the cross flowed head and injection type!!! Dry weight of 360Kgs is not to be taken lightly(pun not intended) an all in weight would see it breach the 400Kgs mark surely?
EGTs reaching 1200C would only worry me if the mods needed to fit an exhaust saw it run a bit close to the body but exhaust wrap would take care of that if needs be.
How did you get on with your build? I have not seen a build thread so am not sure how smoothly it didn't go
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Or an Isuzu 4bd1t nearly identical dimensions and capacity. But soother and more potential.
How much different are thes in respective to the 3.1? I ran a 3.1 Trooper Duty spec,loads of power on tap when you needed it and economical too!! regular 30mpg and I was never shy with the throttle....
You considering one DD?
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Maybe a 4BT would be better in a Disco? Still a 4ltr lump!!!
It interests me to see the mods for mating the gearbox to the transfer box, top work there by the way.
300tdi what to scrap and what to keep?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
GOD I wish you had posted that to him in a PM!!!!!
Luckily I don't have one to worry for but there were several spates a few years back when scrap went off the charts and cars parked on the streets were getting them robbed off them!!!