barriesheene

Temp repair to get me to a christening on the weekend . Roses tin lid, black silicone and some rivets. Looks better in the flesh honest

Nice one snagger There is a bit of play. Noticed that the door is wearing on the A piller to . How do I get rid of any slop ? It's not much but it is there. Locks working fine but I think thats because of the greasing that I gave it.

And plasters ! Ripped the back of my hand to shreds trying to get the first panel off with no pliers

A quick how to on how to remove the rear dickie/boot seats from my Discovery1 V8 You will need :- Mid sized philips screw driver T27 torx key Panel clip remover tool if you have one. ( Pliers if not ) 1) Remove the rear speaker. x4 philips screws 2) Remove the speaker panel. This pulls out at the top, then up to remove from lower panel. 3) Remove the boot interior light by pulling out from the panel and disconnect the 2 wires. 4) Remove the boot blind holder by removing x2 philips screws 5) Remove parcel shelf bracket x2 philips screws 6) Remove the top x2 torx screws from seat frame. This allows the seat back to swing forward. 7) Remove the x4 Torx bolts holding the bottom of the seat frame to the car. Remove the x2 outer bolts first. These are the harder to get at and leaving the inner bolts in place helps to hold the frame. You should be left with this. ( Please note that the brackets are still on in this pic. This is because I've rearranged this "how to" so that you can remove the parts in the correct order. Not like I did . ) On this last bit it is important NOT to lose the plot and end up punching yourself in the face or damaging the panel like I did . The clips can be very stubborn to come out. On the second side I found it easier to remove from the front of the panel towards the rear. Try to get the first clip out slightly then remove it all the way using a pair of pliers. I used snips but pointy nose pliers would be best. Try not to damage the clips with the pliers so you can re-use them. The seat belts will just pass through the holes in the panel. You should then have this. But hopefully NOT this This is my first "how to" so apologies for anything I've missed. HTH>

I bought a complete swivel ball kit from foundry 4x4. If you can live without the car for a few days I'd strip down before ordering parts. I ended up needing hubseals, bearings, swivel ball full kit, new hub,( the hub was too mangled to grip the new bearings ) Thrust bearing etc . Oh and replace your hub nuts and washers for new they are only penny's. You will also need a a landrover hub nut socket for the hub nuts. HTH.

Ok, think I've sussed it ??? Remove seat squab and back and then remove frame > Then remove panel ?? I'll take some pics and put it in the tech forum.

I've found out where the water is getting in to the rear boot area of my disco. Apart from the door seal and window seals . When removing the inner wheel arch rubber seal and cutting the outer arch I've found a cabbage sized hole either side !!!! Problem is its behind the dickie seat panel and I cant see how to get it out. Any idea's ??? If anybody is having water in their boot probs I'd sugest looking here cos it looks like it could be a common prob. Without removing the rear panel or interior of the boot completely you'd never know on a standard car.

Thanks Pete. First thing I tried cos I noticed them on ebay all over the place

Have a look at this http://forums.lr4x4....l=&fromsearch=1 This ( White90 ) http://forums.lr4x4....l=&fromsearch=1 and this Hope these help

Have to agree. Dont know about the rangie but on the disco theres a seal on the ball to stop the axle and swivel hub oils mixing. Is the axle breather tube still attatched ? If its come off I spose water could have got into the axle that way. If the ball and swivel seals have gone chances are hub seals are shot to.... Sorry, sounds like a strip down needed to me If its any consolation its not as bad a job as it seems.

Ok. All linkages connected. No signs of anything wrong TBH. I did notice however that the actual lock that clamps the door frame pin is covered with a rubber cover. I've trimmed any loose bits with a knife. I'm wondering if a bit of it was jamming the lock ??? I've cleaned, lubed and greased everything and all seems ok for now. Top tip for anybody struggling to get the handle bolts back in. Pack the 10mm socket with tissue/blue roll so that the bolt head only just fits in the socket. This will allow you to offer up the bolt without it slipping into the socket.

Yes I think there are too many uses for the word lock I will try and explain better. If you pull on the inner or outer door handle to open the door the actual locking mech can be heard to move. The clamp, ( door) that locks on to the bar, ( body ). Its as if it isnt actually moving far enough to release. Just been out and the door opened ! I closed it cos it was raining quite hard and now it wont open again .

Just had a thought. I'll take the passenger side card off and see how that ones working Doh ! Isnt it funny how something is obvious when you read it but not when you type it

Thanks Ron. This was my first thought but the lock itself is moving so must be still attatched. The fact its been intermittent till now must mean that the linkage is still working or it would just stop working. Are the locks adjustable ?? Could it have been moving gradually and now moved too far ?

Hi guy's. I cant unlock my drivers side door. Its been playing up, ( 2 or 3 tugs on the interior handle to get it to release ), but now it wont open at all. I've done a search but its nothing to do with the central locking, that's all working as it should. You can hear the lock moving when you move the handles, ( inside and out ) Its as if the mech isnt moving quite enough to disengage. Trouble is now I cant get the door card off to have a look !

Nice pics, thanks Rob. I thought there may have been a magic way of blending in the inner wheel arch but obviously not. I did wonder if I had the right arches at first. I found I have a hole into the boot behind the Arch where water has got through the original rubber seal. looking at glassing that over so may try and blank off the gap. Thanks for the pics Rob. Its just nice to know that I'm going in the right direction. I'm going to raise the arches up to where yours are. I havnt started the drivers side so when I do it I'll try and take some pics and do a step by step tutorial to post on here as long as nobody takes the mick of my half arsed grinding .

I changed it all and it only came to about £150 all in so if I was you I'd change everything while its all apart. As for the nut, you only need to have 2 good flat sides for an open ended spanner. I'd hacksaw/grind if you can get it in there two good flat sides on the head and do it that way. You say its in the garage ? If you can, get some heat onto it first and see if that helps

I removed it for the mot. I had enough issues as it was without giving the inspector anything else to fail it on

It's ok I had a go this weekend and got one on.I've had to put them on alot lower than yours tho ??? Even now you can just see the edge of the inner arch. If I'd put them on like yours I'd have had the inner arch just hanging there and the mounting point for the wing on the mudflap bracket would have been cut out and the wing would br flapping about. Be nice to see how they have got around that on yours before I start the other side. If I can see what they have done on yours I can always raise them. Better to take not enough than too much off !!

Oh.......... Now see. Thats exactly what I'm talking about. Not my cup of tea at all. I thought camo meant " to camoflage, blend in " The only place that would blend in is a night club. I'm thinking more this, but not this and not this Its tricky to get right.

Ok. Unanimous decision. Bars gone. Wife wants me to see if it'll go on her vitara instead Next question. To camo or not to camo ?????? Always fancied it on a disco and my paint work aint brill anywho's. Can look abit naff if not done properly tho???

Brian, are you still leak free. I've got a seal kit to do mine. It's only gotta last till I can afford a new box. What order do they go in ? I've got 4 parts.

The wallet is still hurting from the cost of all the parts to get the mot on her and she still needs a front cat exhaust section. Winch and snorkel are definately on the list but as they are pure cosmetic, ( I prefer hand winches with ground anchors and if your in deep enough to need a snorkel in a V8 then you probably shouldnt be ) They are quite far down the list. Down on power to that I need to sort out. More £££££'s I expect. I am growing quite fond of the old girl tho " because she's worth it "

Update. I stopped the leak . Theres a catch at the front of the glass that had gone above the prong rather than onto it. I think its bent something now tho cos on closing the roof I have to force the prong upwards with a screw driver to get it in the housing on the glass.

It was touch and go last week with the mot failure sheet !