barriesheene

I hear what your saying but to me they are rocket science. I've got a gas system on my p38 as well and thats not working properly either. The disco isnt used every day and my nearest gas installer is miles away. At the mo I need to save fuel not spend more money trying to save fuel. I may get the torpeado style tanks fitted at a later date.

Awesome, Thanks guys. . I was worried about disconnecting the pipes with pressurized gas in them. I think I'll go somewhere out of the way to disconnect them tho anyways just in case. Is the tank really that heavy ? It must be like carting around another engine in the back of your truck especially when full. Thanks for all the advise. I'll let you all know how i get on.

Wife made me give up years ago. I was planning on using it as an excuse to drive to the middle of nowhere and chill out for a few hours while it evaporates

Awesome Bowie When you say remove the outlet pipe do you mean from the evaporator thingy in the engine bay or from where it enters the gubbings on top of the tank. I can see the gnurled tap ontop of the tank that must be the drain tap. Do I just vent it into the car then ?? Or do you mean that I can remove all the pipe work and remove the tank from the car before venting the tank on it's own. Sorry for sounding thick but I'm abit confused lol. If I remove the pipe work from the tank wont the gas escape or is there some kind of safety device on the tank ?

Hi Guy's. I'm lugging a great ruddy steel tank around in the boot of my disco and I want to get shot of it. The lpg system doesnt work, never has since I've had it. I want to get rid of the tank as it is probably costing me a fortune lugging it around and i want the rear seats back in use. problem is the gauge on top of the tank says that there is gas in it. How can I take the tank out with gas in it ? Do I have to drain the tank ? If so how ? The nearest gas installer to me is miles away so i'd like to do it myself. Any help much appreciated

I was going to do this Scube. Less cutting/worry but I've gone down the 50mm spacer route and cut a luvly deep grove through the middle of my bfg's when posing the truck for pics yesterday. I'm going to have to cut away as much as I dare and hope that flat dog know what they are on about !!!!!!

Great thanks Fozsug. The dimensions are diffrent on mine but at least I know that the inner arch does need cutting. I will have a go at doing the doors first and that may uncover what needs to bo done with the arches. I'll try and take some photo's as I do it to do a write up.

Thanks' Teslo. Thats what I did on the fronts and they look ok. Not as simple on the rears tho. Do I cut outer and inner skins on the door leaving a ruddy big gap ? What about the door seal / cards ? What about the arch behind the door where the rear passengers get in ? I need to know what I'm aiming for before a wade in with all discs a spinning Lol.

Hi guy's. I need alittle help/moral support. I've bought flat dog arch extensions but I cant see how they are going to fit on the rear. I've done the fronts no probs but cant bring myself to start the rears with the grinder !!! I just cant see where to cut. I've marked out as per instructions but it just doesnt make sense??? I'm guessing that the arch will cover the gap between the inner and outer door skin. What about the arch itself tho ?? Do i cut where the arch sit's behind the door ??? Please help. I've had these arches for months and just havnt been able to fit the rears. P.S. Doh its a 5 door

Ok, update. I.ve had a better snoop about with the wheel off, ( fitted 50mm wheel spacers and 50mm wheel arch extensions ) Gear oil is gushing out onto the back of the brake disc, ( explains the **** braking lol ) axle side. Am I right in thinking hub oil seal then ?? Balls are pitted and there is a slight leak so they will have to be changed anywho's so I'll do the both at the same time. In the mean time is this oil coming from the front diff housing so i know what to keep topping up ? On a diffrent note. Anybody thinking of spending £600 on wheel spacers and extended arch's think long and hard cos I dont know if its £600 worth of improvement if you know what I mean. I wouldnt do it again put it that ways. Should have got the gas sorted out instead. Must leave ebay alone when I have money in my pocket !!!!!

Thanks guy's I'll let you know how I get on when weather and funds allow.

@Puffernutter PRELOAD !!!!!!!! Oooo eck

Just had a good poke about and it looks as though its coming from the seal. Not a very healthy looking colour either. Its got a bit of a milky tinge to it. My worry is something going wrong and the truck being off the road just as we have chance of snow ! I'm also taking a group of scouts up into the Brecon Beacons at the beginning of Febuary for their winter camp and will really want the truck for that . I'm thinking change the oil for grease just for a couple of weeks and then change both front swivel balls at the same time. The full ****part kits are on ebay for £100 so not too bad. There's alot in them kits tho. Looks very complicated to me

There is some pitting on the chrome swivel ball. The leak has only just started tho so I wouldnt have thought it would be that. Can i check the hub seal without dismantling everything ?? I've just found a post, ( u.s. forum ) saying to drain the oil and re-pack with grease ???? Any thoughts ?

Hi guy's. Numpty question but I'm a newbie with these fancy swivel housing things. I've got a leaking swivel housing. Smells like gearbox oil running out on to the tyre. I've never had a swivel housing before so dont really know whats involved . Are they hard to replace ? Is this a garage job or a sunny weeked on the drive with plenty of tea ??? Thanks in advance for any replies.

Hi guys. Just removed my rooflining yesterday. Mine turned out to be a bit of an odd one. One of the fixing screws for the map holders had been screwed through the drainage pipe on the drivers side ??????? When tightened this effectually closed the pipe causing the sunroof to overflow. Removing the headlining isnt as bad as I thought or haynes suggested. On my D1 it's just sunvisors, sunroof handles, roof handles and top rear covers. Dont worry about door pillers etc. Just lever out slightly at the top and pull the lining out. Only took an hour an I didnt know what I was doing I'm leaving the lining off for a while to check for anymore leaks, ( plus I'm really a defender wanna be and quite like the look, tho the wife isnt so keen ) I've got 1 little drip still to sort. It's actually coming through the winder mech it's self. Get the linning out it's not difficult. Easier to clean and sort any sagging out to before replacing.

Hi Matt. Just had a full stainless system done by lifelong on mine. I had from the y piece back done first, then went back and had the front y piece made up. This means you can just replace the new y piece with the original y piece/cat at mot time . O and I had twin exit, single rear pipes on mine with slash cut ends. Looks the mutts I'll post a pick if I get time.

Update guys. Just got it back on the road after changing the heater matrix for the 3rd time in three months !, ( dont ask ). There's been a development ???? Running spot on now except.............. Shes idling at 2000 rpm when not in gear ????? Any ideas? They have to be related. Running poo but idling ok, then running sweet but idleing like its running on caffeine I'm tempted to leave it as is but 2000 rpm in gear at trafic lights cant be doing my torque converter much good

I had the same problem. Mine turned out to be the electricity meter monitor. Chucked it in the bin now all good

update. Split the motor and reset it. Everything back together now the motors not working at all. I'm not removing the dash again till after xmas. Its been out 3 times in 3 months and I just cant face it again till after xmas. I think i would lose the will to live. I've kept the old motors when I replaced them last month so I'll splice one of those into the harness. On the plus side, no more leaks !!!! K sealed as well just to be sure

Expect ebay to crash in january due to the influx of landrovers for sale

B*******s That was what I was worried about Anybody now of a link on how to reset them ? Sorry guys, p38 bag of misery and pain.

Hi guys. I've just replaced the heater matrix, ( I broke the original trying to get the new o-rings to seal ). To give me better access to the matrix pipes I removed the temperature motor and now for some reason I cant get the splines to realign ??? I'm guessing that it moved when I started the engine to check for leaks but now I cant get them to line up. I've tried adjusting the temp on the dash but the motor isnt moving. Is there a temp sensor on the dash somewhere that I've removed to get to the o-rings ??? Please help. The bloody thing has been off the road now for over 6 months

HAYNES MANUAL !!!!!!!!!! ??????????? I wish Sorry guys its a p38 so no haynes

Thanks guys I'll let you know how I get on.