Lorrick

It looks good, anything is better than where it is at the moment. I'm surprised no one has got DVT through it cutting off the blood supply

Cheers Mike and Western, Why didn't LR do that as standard. I will be on the lookout for a Handbrake now then. Regards Richard

Hi All Is it possible to move the Hand Brake from the right hand side of the prop shaft tunnel to the Left? Or has anyone done it, as I assume the Left hand drive LR's must have it on the other side, as I am getting fed up of it sticking in my leg on long journeys And short one thinking about it Any input welcome Cheers Richard

Thanks Western I will have a lookout for a Disco Box then, so thanks to all you out there that gave me exactly what I needed advice wise, and if anyone has a 1.2 transfer box or knows of one let me know. Cheers R

Does a Disco Transfer box have a PTO Take off as I drive my winch off of mine, or would it be easier to go the 1.222 Gear Set from Ashcroft's. And change the gears rather than the box?

Thanks Rusty

Hi All I am thinking about getting a rev counter for my 2002 110 TD5. But looking at the dash I have no space as I have from Left to Right I Have Speedo, Fuel and Temp Guages and no more space. where they fitted to a larger dash or am I missing out on something ? and is the wiring part of the existing loom or do you have to wire it in ? Thanks Richard

What sort of gear box will I have on a 2002 TD5 Defender ? and what type of Box off a Disco will go straight on ? Cheers Richard

Thanks Steve I do pretty much the same and mine is around 2.5 ton. So I think I will definately go for the box, as the ODrive are to pricy. So now to find a good one Cheers Richard

I have 235/85/16's as you say, and I do tow occasionally, I use the truck as a breakdown wagon, so I am on building sites, farms and all sorts of rough terrain compared to the road. But I do a fair bit of M/way and main road to get to places. So as you say it might be a better option for an overdrive. The only down side is the enormous cost of one compared to the return in fuel and overall savings.

Thanks for the input, I think I will go the Disco way. Cheers

Hello all The next thing on the ever growing list of things to do on the 110 TD5 is to sort out a way of getting the engine revs down, as I travel around the UK and do a fair amount of M/Way and Dual Carriageway driving getting to the offending machinery. I have been looking around and see there are Overdrive units that cost half of what I paid for the old girl (Landy not Wife I think the Wife is fractionally cheaper to run but debateable which is the most fun ), and then people that have changed their TF/Box for a Disco one as the gearing is different and some have bought the gear set to go into the existing TF/ box. Has anyone out there in sensible land had any relatively cheap way or common sense way of gearing the box differently to help on motorway running? Cheers Richard (PS the wife won’t be reading this)

Thanks Chris, I will have take a chance and go 55cm from the rear centre of the truck. What size is the pump as I want to try and take out a panel in one cut so I can make something to clip it back in. Thanks for the link Richard

No the pump is ok, it is just getting blocked, that is why I am trying to find out if I can take it out without taking the tank out.

Hi All Sorry forgot to thank you Jason for the diagrams. it has worked out it is a jelly like substance in the fuel tank floating about, sometimes blocking the fuel pump intake. Cheers Richard

Hi All I have finally found out the answer to two of the questions I posted on here a while ago. The intermittent lack of power has been traced to carp in the tank (how often do you have to do that) I hear you ask! I have found out from my local Private LR garage that they change a lot of fuel pumps some on 110's mostly on Disco's both with TD5 Engines in. That if the injector seals start to deteriorate, it allows combustion debris to get back into the return feed to the tank and for some reason causes a jelly like substance to form in the fuel tank. It then goes on to block the fuel pump pick up. So if I start the engine and go straight away it lacks power, if I stop down the road on a hill and stop the engine and then start it is fine for a while until I go around some bends or brake and then all the rubbish gets back in the pump again. Next question is, can the pump be stripped and cleaned or is there a cheaper option than buying a new LR Pump for £350 and can it be done without taking all the tow hitch and fuel tank out ? The wheel wobble came down to the front tyres in the end, after changing the Front Swivels and Steering Box as all knackered due to lack of maintenance, the outcome being they had worn the front tyres in a weird way so although the front is totally rebuilt now the tyres still gave it a wobble at 65mph The wife is nearly speaking to me now :-) Cheers Richard

Hi All Just had new power steering pump today, so the amount the Landy has cost me so far has gone up another couple of hundred, the wife is really appreciative as well (not). So today as I am driving to get the steering pump fitted and the break pedal is getting hard top push down, and low and behold the brake vacuum pump is on its way out, as I tried another Master Cylinder, and it was the same. So why as I was quoted £415 for a new alternator and pump, or I could just buy the Alternator for a bit less, but I cant buy a B@~&dy pump on its own. Any one else had this problem ?. am I really dense and missing out somewhere. I am not to keen on buying a second hand one as not knowing what it might do or what it is like. Any ideas welcome. Thanks Richard

I Deal with Albright Solenoids quite often, They very rarely go wrong, first check the voltage you are getting on the wires that connect to the solenoid, should be 12 volts +, if you are getting less check the wiring, but as it was stated on the other reply sound like a dogy switch, if you a getting 2v + then look at the coil, and contactors if you ever need any Albright spares look at a company called Machine Electrics, you can get any spares or complete solenoids from them or rebuild kits for a fraction of anywhere else. Regards Richard

Hi again, Yes I found the breather pipe. I unclipped it and there is a filter fitted on it, so I have blown and sucked the pipe and you can hear the air going inside the tank ? so I don't know by unclipping it the pipe has unblocked itself or something else, I will have to wait and see what happens after the next run. Thanks to you all. Regards Richard

Hello all Happy Easter, Does anyone out there in Defender Land know if there is or where it is a Breather Pipe on the fuel tank as there is a great suction build up,As when I put my key in the filler cap, the air rushes in for 7 to 10 seconds. So if there is a breather pipe on the tank it must be blocked. this is what i think may be causing my bad engine performance as the fuel pump is fighting against an ever increasing suction. Any thoughts welcome.

Ok that sound good enough for me. Thanks Regards Richard

Hi All I have removed the EGR Valve and now I notice that my exhaust is getting very sooty, thick black soot. I know the EGR Recycles some of the exhaust but I would have thought that it would run as rough as a rough thing if that amount of rubbish went through it. Also I have nearly sorted my severe lack of power from first starting, when I turn the ignition on the fuel pump will run forever with out turning off, but if I turn the ignition on and off a few times with a few seconds between eventually the pump build up pressure and stops, then the old buss runs really well. Any Ideas on any problem welcome. Cheers Richard

Hi all Should you be able to blow into the Turbo Actuator pipe and get any response out of it, as I found the actuator in mine is really stiff and you need to give it a good tug with pliers to get it to move as no amount of puff gets the slightest hint of any movement from it. Also should the actuator link arm from the dump valve be fully away from the actuator or fully towards it at rest. Regards Richard

Hi All Where would you start with sorting out where the turbo linkage should be so that everything works as it should. My turbo doesn't do anything until the revs are very high, the Turbo Linkage has been mucked about with so I do not know weather it is in the correct place to start with before trying to do any adjustments. Any help welcome Regards Richard

Hi Ash, Its the same on my TD5 2002 Utility wagon, rattles like mad when your up in hi revs , change gear and all is well, Have been told some do some don't ? If you find an answer please let me know