Lorrick

Thanks Tanuki and Steve I will get the Hammer out tomorrow

Hi Jason Thanks for that, it makes seem better if someone else has had the same problem I was thinking of blanking off the EGR as it was anyway as I thought that would be the place to start. I will look o the site and see if any particular blanking system is better than any others, then go from there. I am at the moment trying to find a engine schematic/Diagram so I can see where certain things are. I will keep the site posted. Cheers Richard

Hi All I have a TD5 that has done 140,000 and since I have had it it has had a weird fault. :hysterical:When you start to drive it from cold, it has a severe lack of power, will not pull itself up a 1 in 5 hill without revving it right up. After a few miles sometimes it starts to go ok. I have changed all the fuel filters and checked what I can. Today I got it back from the local Independent Land rover garage and they cannot find out what’s wrong. They have checked fuel pump pressure ok at pump and engine, no air in the system either, Turbo working ok, and the air hoses are ok, EGR valve is ok. Fuel valve on the back of the engine is ok. Turbo pressure is ok. When they ran it first thing this morning with the turbo pipe off, it gave the same symptoms as normal. So I am assuming it is something to do with the inlet where the turbo goes into the engine, is there a flap or butterfly valve that may be sticking until the engine heats up. Any ideas more than welcome as its doing my head in. Regards Richard

Are they much of a job to do, I am a mechanic and use the vechle all the time so it would have to come off the road for a day I assume.

Hi Folks I have a terrible wheel shimmy on the old girl , I thought I had found the reason as the Landy had been in to a garage and when it came out the Steering Shock absorber was loose ? thought whoopee , tightened it up and it is still the same , I have had the wheels re balanced, I am running General T2's on it, I have swapped n/s to o/s, I have raised and lowered the pressures, absolutely nothing different, it is a bout 50 to 60 mph and you can feel it building up. Any Ideas Besides using it for making Cocktails Cheers Richard

Hi Terra Dog I had the same on my 2002 TD5, and luckily someone told me before I went down the clutch route, to grease up the UJ's on the props, as it gives you the same noise and symptoms as A thrust bearing, I did and it went away. The other thing he said and I can prove it, if it is the UJ's and the noise goes away, replace them, as they have already got damaged due to lack of grease, mine broke on the way to get them replaced, Luckily I use mine as a breakdown wagon, so pulled over and took the front prop off, and came home on the rear.

The trouble is that as I do breakdowns and repairs I am opening the rear door a lot every day, I had thought of the swing away carrier, but it is the same thing that it is in use all the time. I have all my tools and kit in the back so no place to put the spare inside, but as you have pointed out if I beef up the bonnet, it can go on there, I hadn't thought of getting the wheel down from the roof rack only getting it up there I would imagine they will bounce a bit !!. I will look into fitting it on the Bonnet, its a shame you are not a bit nearer Jason or I would have had it off you. :-)

Hello All I use my TD5 for work and I am in and out of the back all day long, at the moment the spare wheel is mounted on the door, but it is a heavy wheel for something that is opened and closed a lot more than normal and I don't want to damage it. I have seen some Defenders have the spare wheel mounted on the roof rack (I take it they can't be mounted on a TD5 Bonnet) What sort of mounting is there for a wheel on the roof rack ? Any help appreciated

Weird thing, all the lights have started working on the dash, some I have never seen before when I turn on the ign, but I now have a fuel pump whine to sort out.

Did the same with a Triumph Stag windscreen years ago, used the edge of a screwdriver to chisel them off, still leaves tiny black specks on the screen, as the metal melts into the glass for a fraction when it lands on it, even if you get the glass flat, and do something else to it you will always have the black specks, cost me £300 from memory years ago for a new screen. Bite the bullet and move on get a new screen, or live with it.

Thanks Tanuki (you don't seem like a Japanese trickster or evil spook :-) ) I will have to look into it as there was no dash light and it didn't seem that any glow-plugs where working at all ? Thanks Richard

Afternoon all Fired up the trusty beast this morning -9 (Suffolk UK) and it took a few cranks to get it to start, I am assuming it has Glow Plugs rather than an excess fuel system, There is no dash light to say that the Glow plugs are on or available. should there be a normal Filament symbol light or something else ? Regards Richard

Hi Mutley You could always buy a Solar Battery Charger like this one £16ish http://www.amazon.co...ASIN=B000R0UBT8 and leave it on when you are not using the car ? at least its a cheap option and when you are away from the vehicle its putting something back in.

Thanks to all I will look at the half shafts and lock up the prop shaft. Regards Richard

Hi Folks I don't know if this is the right place and I can't find anything in the archives, but that is probably me. How easy is it to take out some slack in the rear diff, and is it the same for the front. It is a 2002 TD5 110 Utility Regards Richard

Hi Folks How easy is it to take out some slack in the rear diff, and is it the same for the front. It is a 2002 TD5 110 Utility Regards Richard

About the front wheel wobble under breaking and the now its here now its not pulsing brake peddle, They replaced, the Steering Damper, still there, Wheels,still there, tried all track rod ends and linkages,still there, put a Dial Test Indicator on the new discs nothing on the outside surfaces, Found a slight grumble in the n/s/f wheel bearings so replaced them both, and as the disk was off, they DTI'd the inner surface of the brake disk and it was 7thou out, not a lot, put it back on, and still there, so where out of ideas, and so replaced both discs and guess what it stopped. These where genuine Landrover discs, and the guys been doing them for 27 years and even he couldn't figure it out. Anyway we are all steering and braking straight again Still got to figure out about the turbo lag.

Thanks Recovery Man & Brian I will have a look tomorrow, and ideas on turbo lag ?

Hi Mick No I didn't I just looked it up so I could put the link on to you and it was the best one to explain the principles, I will ask them if its ok though, I will be in touch. Regards

Evening Intelligent Defender people On my Utility TD5 2002 142,000 miles( it has had a hard neglected life as far as I can see, its in hospital again next week). I use it for work so it has a fair bit of weight in it excluding me :blink:with tools and barrels of oil, I cover between 700 and 1200 miles a week so the thing is being used, But the Turbo does seem to take an age to kick in when accelerating, is there any way of lessening the time delay, and as I haven't got a Rev Counter, I do not now what revs it cuts in at but it does seem rather high before you feel the engine pulling also : The steering wobbles quite badly when breaking and at around 65mph you can feel the steering wobble but not as badly but the steering damper is ok , took it back to garage that fitted new pads and discs and front bushes and suspension and a load of other stuff before Christmas and on the brake calibrator you can see both brakes wavering by 50 Kgf at 300 Kgf, so they are definitely warped, sometimes you can feel the brake peddle pulsating under your foot when braking then it goes away, the front of the truck is gently rising and falling by about 1.5 inches when on the rolling brake tester as well. beat that. I have checked the wheels and they are definitely round and running true on the rims and the rims are ok as well without any deformities, and all the front end suspension and joints are new and tight ??? so any ideas. As the guy who is doing the investigation on it is scratching his head a bit and he's worked on them for years. Any help welcome Regards Richard

Your Welcome Luckily that the sort of problems I come across in the work I do, I hope the diagrams are OK. Regards Richard

Hi Mick The feed to the Alternator excitation circuit should go through your alternator charge warning lamp and only be a few mille amps. The Alternator needs 12 v to excite the windings to get the charging system started, when it starts making its own electricity it powers the excitation circuit internally, so getting rid of the need for the voltage from the Charge lamp that’s why it goes off on the dash and that’s why sometimes the charging light will stay on after starting the engine, but if you blip the throttle it then will go off as it needed a few more revs to start its internal circuit then it is equalising the voltage coming in from the light. But if you have a permanent feed and a few amps you will be making the Alternator work at full output permanently, and fry the windings. Have a look at http://www.tb-training.co.uk/MarineE08.html Regards Richard

Thanks to all, Andy and Steve, I have just replaced the same Item on the wife's Hyundai Santa Fe ( Sorry wont swear again) would have thought LR would have had a decent solid pulley. hey ho, I will have a look at the weekend, if it lasts that long. I think TD5 stands for Terminal Discoveries 5. Thanks to all. As for the mouse, I have plenty hear Bob if you want some

Hello out their I have noticed recently that when I fire up my TD5 in the mornings (4-5am) the engine squeaks for a while then when the engine gets warmed the noise goes away, I had a look the other morning and got the old ear trumpet out on the P/s pump pulley, Idler Pulley, Alt Pulley and any other pulley I could get to as the noise seems to be about 4 to 5 squeaks a second on tick over not constant, and I thought if it was the belt it would be constant, I have had it before on a Transit that the Tensioner pulley squeaked until it was warm and eventually the inevitable happened. So anyone have any Ideas, is there a common thing that will go on a TD5 lump, or that causes a Squeak, Besides a mouse Cheers Richard

As mmgemini says, but I have used with good results FORTE injector cleaner, fill the fuel filter up, let it idle until used up and what a difference, that was on a 1995 Pajero. and the Landy both a lot better after, and I never believe in any of this additive stuff, except I have tried this one and it is OK. Regards Richard