Lorrick

Thanks Anderzander, I have just taken off the Circlip and everything is revealed, I didn't think that the drive shaft went through the drum and drove it from the other end, Quite logical when you see it It looks like the dog clutch is perfect but would not engage properly as the other side of the dog on the drum has been damaged and some bits of swarf had got stuck in the splines so that the dog would not slide down the shaft properly to engage. Hopefully I will download a picture.

Hi Steve, I get what you are saying now as I have just had another look at it, the crud on the splines was hiding the Circlip. Cheers I will take it apart as soon as I have a chance and let you know what is what. Thanks to you both Regards Richard

Hi Their I have taken the winch apart already the only thing left together is the large drive gear on the shaft of the drum, but as you say Steve, the Bearing has stayed on the shaft which is confusing me, so I assume that if I take the end bearing off that there should show up two key way slots, ? and that the whole drum should in theory just pull off the shaft. ? Regards Richard

Hi All Just got around to getting the winch out finally and the question is: does anyone out there know how to get the winch drum off the main gear at the worm drive end. As the gear and the winch drum spin separately so I am assuming something is broken on the shaft like a woodruff key or something of that nature. I have a manual but all it shows is it in situ not how to disassemble it. Any ideas welcome. Regards Richard

Hi James I have just got my 110 Hard top 2002 TD5 insured, they say it comes under a Light Goods vehicle, and as I use it for work and have changed from my Transit van I had to renew insurance. My Original insurers (Quick fit ? Yes they do insurance) where £287 fully comp, I have 9 years no claims, and am 49 and been driving for 32 years. It is cheaper with the wife as a named driver ?. The other quotes I had where £478 and £800 Figure that one out. Regards Richard

When some of the machinery I work on does the same we normally get the belt off and run some emery paper in the grove of the pulley, this roughs it up a bit as the pulleys get very polished after a while and the belt slips no matter how tight you get it as it is trying to grip on a glass surface, you can run some emery on the belt as well. Regards Richard

Hi Ray Did as you suggested and it's a different machine, ended up screwing it tighter by about 5mm in the end and it made a real difference. Regards Richard

Thanks Retro, I will stick to the Mintex Vented Disks I think. Thanks for the info Richard

Thanks Old Hand I will do that as I am near Ipswich next week. Regards Richard

Cheers Andy I think I will go with them. Thanks Richard

Cheers for the info Andy, I think I will go for new Prop's as if the UJ's where that dry, it stands to reason that the Spline on the Shafts would be as well.Have just looked at the Bailey Morris web site, have you a rough cost for those at all as there isn't anything on the site. Thanks Richard

Hello Just a quickie, the 110 hard top I bought a few weeks ago has been sitting for a couple of years and been well and truly starved of maintenance Whilst driving there was a tremendous squeaking coming from underneath, people would look around when I went past. Being a super mechanic well a mechanic something like that, I deduced it was the thrust bearing as I could make the noise go away by depressing the clutch pedal (just told it how many gear changes we were going to do to get home) so I phone up a free lance Land Rover garage and they said it would not only be the clutch but the Dual Mass Flywheel as well quite common I was told and they quoted over £1000 to do it. On a very positive note I explained why I thought it was the release bearing and told him the symptoms and he told me it sounded like the Prop Shaft UJ's and Splines needed greasing. So I got under and amongst other things I saw that where knackered, I greased up everything and Hey Presto the squeaking has gone away, but I am debating weather to renew Bearings as it looks like they have been without grease for some time. I know of one garage that will have a new customer. Cheers Richard

Hello everyone I have been trying to get my Superwinch H14 out to repair and besides being a right B*%&£*d to get the PTO drive shaft off (still trying), I am going to have to replace the UJ's ( as they are triangular due to lack of maintenance) and the center bearings, I have looked all over the Forums and Technical and the web and Manuals But can not find a part number for either UJ's or Bearings. Can someone out their point me out in the right direction or have any info. Cheers Richard

Hi Les I have looked and they all seem to be down the South West, nothing up this way (Suffolk) but I will have a look at Drive Tech. Thankyou

Thanks Western, will do. Regards Richard

Thanks Ray, I will have a play tomorrow. Regards Richard

Hello out their, I am going to have to replace my front Discs and Pads on my 2002 110 TD5, without going nuts as it is just a work horse and spends most of its time on the road, with all the different front discs that ore on the market, is there a better set up to put on, without spending a fortune, as you can get a brake kit for £30ish up to £140 just for Discs ? any advice welcome. Richard

Thought this link might help http://www.motester.co.uk/MOTQuiz.aspx it opened my eyes a bit as well. Regards Richard

Hello all yes I know there is plenty about these winches in the archives, but the links don't seem to work to one of the sites as I think it has been taken over, so has anyone out there got a diagram for a PTO driven Superwinch H14W, as I have found that the input shaft is rotating but nothing is happening ?and would like to see what is in there before I strip it down Cheers Richard

Hi All After extensive looking on the Internet and workshop manual I can not find the set up any where for the Turbo Waste Gate actuator Linkage on a 2002 TD5. I seem to remember that you should have a couple of mm play, I could be wrong as it was 15 years ago I have taken the actuator off the Turbo Linkage as it was stiff and have freed it off,I have put it back to the same position as it came off and still The turbo itself seems to lag behind a lot, and the Vacuum linkage when connected seems very hard to push even with the mole grips on the shaft, you have to really push hard to get a slight bit of movement, the gate itself is very free but the vacuum unit is very hard. Anyone out in Defender world have a set up procedure. Regards Richard

That must have been one hell of a bounce

Thanks Jon I will do just that, it seems that you have done the same thing. Regards Richard

I have recently bought a 2002 110 TD5, it was owned by a Tree Felling Company . It was standing for a year and a half, but fired up first time and passed its MOT with only having to replace a broken headlight, and besides needing a good service and a clean out, is in good condition. One thing the owner said was that they tried to winch a rather heavy machine out of some soft ground with the PTO Driven Super Winch and it and it made a loud noise and now although it will wind the cable back in, it does not have any pulling power . Looking at the diagrams of the PTO drive do the woodruff Keys in the UJ’s ever shear or is there a more normal reason for this to happen, as I would not think that the winch itself has gone up the shoot, but I may be wrong, the wife says I always am so it must be true . Regards Richard

Thanks to you both, I will look into it a bit further, but it show it is not to hard to do. Cheers Richard

Greetings to you all from a Newbie ,I have had a couple of 110's in the past to do with work and have just bought a 2002 Hardtop as I now I work for my self , I am paying a bit more attention to this one now as it's mine Does the 110 have the wiring in situ for the fitting of Electric window motors? and if not has anyone fitted any to a standard door. Also the top inside metal door strip that the door cover hooks over is cracked and broken, is this common and I take it you just weld it back together again. Lastly anyone have the Hardy Spicer part number for the PTO Take off for the winch. Regards Richard