BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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Here you go, fell off the back of a lorry
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I think they'd banned the steel bars by the time the facelift vehicles came along so it should be the right bar. I seem to remember having to remove the crush cans when I fitted mine and that it was a pig to put on but it was in 2002 so the memory is a bit hazy! Google for the instructions, you may turn them up somewhere, it should be clear if there are bits missing as there will be a 'what's in the box' list.
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Good job Barker is ill and not paying attention
Well, the first one is now built up into my old front diff, so will have to bite the bullet and get it swapped out in the near future. The back one is a bit more of a pain because I don't have a spare short nose diff lying around, so it will have to be fitted into the diff that's still in the vehicle.
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If you have a look in a parts manual it will tell you what the varieties of harness are which may answer the question.
Winchwise, after using a Milemarker hydraulic for years on my old 110, I have now got a TDS9.5 from Goodwinch on the Puma, not used it much but it seems decent enough for the money.
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Pegged short nose? I thought I watched a video yesterday saying that it wasn't possible to peg a short nose diff because there wasn't space in the casing
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Got what I need now, so all sorted
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Ah, Mr Ashcroft has just come up trumps with an extract from a manual that I've never seen before, so I'm sorted
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Does anybody have an early workshop manual for the 1994> P38 models?
If so I wonder if you could check if the older manuals have a proper section in for diff overhauls. What I'm looking for is to see if there is a proper overhaul section, or at least torque setting for the crownwheel bolts and/or the side bearing caps, because the differential itself is "non serviceable" according to Land Rover, but that's by the time they introduced it onto the 110 rear axle in 2002. In the good old days lots of things were in the workshop manual that aren't in there now, so just wondered if any details were in the older manuals? I have the RAVE manual but it's only 2000MY on, so there will be older ones which may be paper only.
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He might but I think he's too busy welding
I guess there is no 'official' overhaul manual for these diffs but the start of the P38s is just about far enough back that they still wrote real manuals rather than the "This is a non serviceable part" which is in too many places on modern vehicles. In fact the manual for the Discovery 5 is just one page which says "This is a non serviceable item"
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A question has arisen as I prepare to get the job done....
Does anybody know of an overhaul manual existing for the P38 short nose diff, as fitted to the back of a post-2002 110? I have torque settings and the overhaul manual for the standard long nose diff, courtesy of Ashcroft (it's in an old Land Rover workshop manual along with the full diff setup procedure, from back in the good old days when the factory wrote proper workshop manuals). However it is too old to cover the P38 diff (it has a 4 pin HD diff but I am pretty sure it will be the 4 pin long nose as fitted to Camel Discoverys and the back of some V8 90s).
The info I need in particular is
i) whether the crownwheel bolts are a different torque (probably not as they are the same size - standard diff is 58nm)
ii) whether there is a different torque setting for the side bearing caps (standard is 90nm)
iii) whether there is any difference in the setup procedure to the long nose diffs in terms of setting backlash (standard process is tighten the crownwheel side until all backlash is removed and then tighten the opposite side until the specified amount is obtained)
In the absence of better info I will just use the info for the standard diff but it may or may not be appropriate. Land Rover of course say that the P38 diff is 'non serviceable' but somewhere there must exist the settings used on original manufacture. Has anybody got these squirreled away somewhere? My thought process at present is that as the crownwheel bolts and the bearings are apparently the same, the torque settings will probably be the same.
Ta
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Good to see a solid conviction and the fact they were hung by their own CCTV is hilarious, but the real question is why, when it first appeared on this forum in 2010, has it taken nine years to finally put this bunch of reprobates behind bars when they've apparently been nicking and breaking stuff for nearly a decade? Is "the system" really that inefficient?
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16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
As it is, they need a breakthrough on batteries which either increases the capacity 10x or reduces the charging time 10x to make them viable. All they're doing these days is getting gradually better at stuffing thousands of laptop batteries into the floor without the whole lot catching fire.
Well put...
Somewhere like here where for miles there are not even any houses, never mind places to plug one in, and electricity is 22p a unit, current EV technology is completely useless for most users. Same for rural Australia, most of Africa and no doubt much of the rest of the world. It'll probably catch up one day if fuel cells become a reality, but unless the EV is divorced from the daily requirement to plug it in for half the day by the invention of a new mass produced clean power source, it's going to be a while.
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Amend thread title
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Selling it to a country full of pirates that copy anything that isn't nailed down was only going to end in tears.
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10 hours ago, Snagger said:
I was going to PM you at some point to ask if you were on course to do this yet. If I remember rightly, you were going to retain the standard shafts and CVs and see how they hold up as it's used for tracks, not competition. I'm keeping my fingers crossed as I hope to do the same on my RRC and coiler axled 109, and don't want to spend on new shafts if not required, but Nige was pretty insistent and he does know his stuff. I hate budgets!
Yep, that is the plan.
The only thing that I have consistently broken in the standard drivetrain is the 2 pin LR diff centre, so I figure it is fine. I've never broken a CV or halfshaft in anything in about 25 years of driving off road. Red mist is saved for the garage!
But the decider for me was that I know of several vehicles here fitted with full ARB lockers, and I can't recall any instance of them popping a CV or driveshaft because of the extra strain. The ATB should put less strain on everything than locked ARBs, so I'm not that worried. Most of the time the circumstances where it comes into play will be where grip between the two wheels on an axle is not massively different but on open diffs enough to make a wheel spin out - the ATB will keep things going but probably with much less than the 3:1 torque bias. We'll see - I just don't want to waste money as if they are good, I've potentially got 3 vehicles to fit them to, and 3 full sets of Ashcroft gear is more than I'm really prepared to spend. If I blow stuff up on the first vehicle I'll reassess the situation then.
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On 12/23/2018 at 8:58 AM, Snagger said:
No, that'd be a P38 style or short nose diff. The stud pattern on the axle is different, I believe, so a 4-pin (or 2-pin, for that matter) long nosed diff won't fit the axle without modifications. Short nose diff is stronger than the long nose, but weaker than a Salisbury. But if you already have the short nos rear axle, it's likely to be strong enough for you if you're looking at ATBs rather than full lockers. As I understand it, the Ashcroft ATB will fit the short nose diff too, but I think you need additional parts. Still cheaper than a Trutrac, and works in both directions. Best to ask Dave on the phone before ordering.
All correct. Post 2002MY 110s have the P38 short-nosed 4 pin rear diff. I've currently got ATBs sitting in the garage waiting to go into my 110, and all I needed to order for the rear was the extra P38 spacer ring. Have to say the first impression of the ATB on unpacking one is that it's a solid lump!
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My 300Tdi Defender is getting a pair of Ashcroft ATB diff centres in the near future. Many moons ago, when the front diff was nearly new, it broke the pin in the centre, and at that point I fitted an ex Camel Trophy 4 pin HD diff which is still there today.
The old front diff, which at the time had probably done less than 10k miles, was sprayed up with WD40 and put under a rag in the back of the garage for storage. My plan for some time has been to dig it out and fit the ATB centre to the original diff, then refit it to the vehicle, as it is nearly new in mileage terms.
I was a bit surprised when I located it the other day to find that there was light surface rust in quite a few places, including on some bits of the crownwheel. However, it seems to have cleaned off OK with more WD40 and some light wire brushing, and though there is some very light pitting on the outer face of the crownwheel, the gear teeth appear to have cleaned up perfectly.
The question is this: am I setting myself up here for a diff that will whine like crazy, or should it be OK? The ATB came with new side bearings already pressed onto it (less to buy them than to get a garage to change over the old ones), so that should be no problem, and the pinion and the pinion bearings appear to be fine with no rust. I can only assume the rag covering it absorbed some moisture over the years and where it was touching the diff surfaces there was some corrosion, as it's only on one part of the crownwheel.
I'd be interested in any thoughts. I think it will probably be fine?
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On 12/31/2018 at 12:39 PM, ThreeSheds said:
different topic altogether. - what do you think these things are for? (arrow drawn on mobile phone - sorry) I mean the downward flaps that look a bit like spoilers, one each side at the front...
It's the cheap bit of plastic **** that emits an audible warning (distinctive crunch sound unlike other alarms) to warn you that in another two inches there is going to be a ucking expensive crunch as the hideously expensive and utterly misnamed 'bumper' fails to bump anything and disintegrates into 17 pieces, some of which will be jammed into the steering, others underneath somewhere, and a few lost for all time in the bottom of the relatively shallow ditch you just dropped the nose into
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On 1/2/2019 at 12:53 PM, simonr said:
I have a theory about the apparent unreliability - and it's backed up by my own experience!
When someone buys a 4x4, they feel like they are driving a tank and that it doesn't need the same level or care of servicing as a regular car.
I read that a day off-road is the equivalent in terms of wear to between 1 & 2 months on the road too.
They tend not to have it serviced by an expensive main dealer, or do it themselves. Either of the alternative options is then far more likely to use cheaper patterned parts. They will probably last long enough for you (or the next owner) to forget where they came from when they fail.
The combination of these factors, later in the vehicles life, give the impression of the Land Rover being unreliable rather than it being unreliable due to what's been done to it as everyone thinks they are the perfect Mechanic!
Why does this not apply to other 4x4's? Because there are practically no patterned parts available. Newer ones tend to be much more difficult to service without the 'special tools', computers etc - so on average, they receive better quality parts & servicing than LR's.
Those of you who've known me a l-o-n-g time will remember my vehicles perhaps not having the best reliability record? (and some of the funny stories to go with that!). Then, I had a revelation (as above) and only fitted genuine parts. I also (unlikely as it may seem) followed the service manual to the letter (not the Haynes book of lies or my normal guesswork). Since then, I've had no serious problems. Outside regular servicing, in the last two defenders spanning 15 years, the only failures I've had are a head gasket on a 200Tdi and a wheel bearing on a Td5 110.
I actually agree. I tend not to skimp on servicing, and my 300Tdi Defender is now 12 years old and has given me no major bother apart from bits that I would expect to wear out with significant off road and rough road use. The wear and tear factor is high (just passed 34,000 miles and on the second clutch and having worn out two full sets of tyres in that time).
The curse of Land Rover is anything with electronics, and they still haven't really figured out this electricity stuff.
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Thanks, I will have a play but if it looks too difficult to get spares then I'll probably just get an electric winch instead.
I got the impression that neither the valve block nor the pump supplied by AML were Milemarker parts.
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7 hours ago, Ozzy50 said:
We all know Land Rover has lost its way regarding REAL off roaders. As capable as the current models are off road they are not reliable enough in a real world ,continuous off road situation, Christ they’re not reliable enough in a real world ON road situation! Toyota still make a no frills proper off roader , Land Rover Dont .
Got it in one. The plastic tat performs well for a short period or occasional use, but it won't stand up to continuous everyday off road use. Nothing has, the last models that did were the Defender, Discovery series 1 and the original Range Rover Classic.
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Non genuine tensioner? I thought they were a 6203
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4 hours ago, steve b said:
Ah , yes , you are probably right about the prv location , maybe stick a washer under the relief spring to test ? or maybe run thicker hydraulic oil (SAE 46 ) to see if that makes a difference ? A mate of mine runs 15/40 diesel engine oil in his U900 Unimog hydraulic tank . How often do you change the oil ?
Iirc the kits had ZF74 pumps ? Does it run all the time or is there an EM clutch ?
Steve b
Yeah, ZF74 rings a bell. It runs all the time, no clutch. Old photo of it in the vehicle before last when it was all shiny and new:
Fluid, er gulp about 2007 when it was fitted to the current vehicle?
still nice and clean and red in the tank, and doesn't get used that often so mostly it's just circulating through the pump.
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The pump supplied is a PAS pump off something or other I think, so probably internal relief? The Alfred Murray solenoids are a very compact solenoid block, I don't really think it is inside that but I'll have a look.
No OCV, cooler or anything like that - the AM kit was pretty basic to keep the cost reasonable, a small PAS reservoir supplies Dexron PAS fluid to the pump. through the valve block to return to the reservoir or divert to the pump when the in or out solenoids are triggered.
The thing doesn't sound any different to before, just seems to open earlier than I think it used to.
still nice and clean and red in the tank, and doesn't get used that often so mostly it's just circulating through the pump.
Seat belt extensions
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Can anybody point me to a UK supplier of seat belt extensions that are guaranteed to fit a late Td5 age (2005/2006) Defender vehicle?
We bought some a while back which are supposed to fit, basically it's a buckle, about 8 inches of belt and the socket to plug the end of the original belt into, and although it fits the front seat belts fine, it won't fit the second row and the tongue of the extension jams up in the mechanism, doesn't lock properly and then won't come out. I can't see why they don't work, but they don't! Looks more or less like this:
I am not sure who the original supplier was for these but after somebody who can supply some guaranteed to work on Defender seatbelts.
Any ideas please?