BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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On the flip side (and accepting the questionable legalities in the UK) I know somebody here who ran them for a while on a 110 with no problems, and I run the Tornado alloys on mine sometimes (tips the scales at 2400kg unladen) and have had no problems either. I'm not sure that the exact weight rating is actually known to anybody, they just aren't recommended for a 110 because they have never been sold on a 110 from the factory. Some of the aftermarket copies of the Tornado alloy are certainly sold as being suitable for a 110. What you can say is that they are suitable for a Discovery Tdi which has a GVW of something like 2720kg i.e. only 300kg short of a standard 110SW, and if one is worried that a wheel is going to break for the sake of another 150kg on it, then it probably shouldn't be fitted to either, so I have never bothered too much about it.
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It's normal, it is the turbo modulator and/or EGR doing its shutdown cycle. Mine does the same (though it is a 2015 2.2). Can be a bit squeaky at times, mine was a bit loud when I bought it but has quietened down recently.
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Pretty sure the answer is no, and the only weight rated wheels are Boosts and the Deep Dish alloys which were fitted to 110s in about 97/98 sort of time as part of the Freestyle Choice pack for the 110. I have personally imported vehicles with this option so the Deep Dish are/were definitely factory approved.
None of the alloys are approved for a 130 rear axle though, or the HD 110 which has a GVW of 3500kg.
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My new Puma has anti-roll bars front and rear, as fitted standard to the last vehicles. I'm in two mind about whether to keep them or not, as I think they make the ride a bit choppy off-road, but they make a huge difference to the stability on-road.
I'm also thinking about a suspension lift of ~ 2" probably via fitting a lift kit, though I may do what I did on my Tdi and fit 90 rear springs on the front, and spring lifter spacers on the back.
I've heard vague stories here of lifted vehicles turning the ARB ball joints inside-out which locks the suspension up solid, but I am unsure what level of lift makes this become a risk, and whether it's only in specific situations e.g. fitting a full lift kit with extended shocks. Can anybody shed any light on this problem, specifically:
1) whether it's likely with a 2" lift
2) whether it happens with std shocks or only with extended ones
To my mind, standard shocks will only allow the standard amount of suspension travel so while the vehicle may sit a bit higher, it shouldn't really change anything to make the ARBs have problems.
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Decision made, so I have just painted it with some spray black and will see what happens.
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7 hours ago, Jamie_grieve said:
Apologies for the long post with lots of pictures but hopefully most will find them interesting.
Just a few of many photos of fatigue failures to show you what you've been missing. This is what you have to deal with in a global market and is what so very few people from the UK ever get to see so I find the perspective very skewed towards crossing a muddy field now and then as to what a utility 4x4 needs to be able to do. Again I would cite the 100m waterproof watch as my argument for having a highly capable product that 95% will never use to capacity. If the people building the car don't get it then what chance has the car got? I've purposely not used the same car twice in any of the pictures. Land Cruisers fair much better in these conditions and is why I generally recommend them but I would love to be able to recommend a British product. The Projekt Grenadier is another I'm following with interest. I also think that by putting forward the illusion of a utility vehicle it will cheapen the Land Rover brand although in the short term it will be much easier and more profitable to build for the masses but I see the problem with the land rover brand that it could quite rightly be accused of talking the talk not walking the walk.
Many of those are exactly the sort of things we see here in the Falklands but Land Cruisers are also far from impervious to fatigue (or any other) failures
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The other day I ran all the rope off my 14 year old Milemarker drum for the first time for quite a while, to spool it back on under tension and tidy it up, following a couple of days of off road use including several winch recoveries.
I was quite shocked by the amount of deep corrosion on the drum - really heavy rust about 1-2mm thick. I've just chiselled it all off (enough rust flakes to fill a dinner plate) and I have coated the drum with Kurust, with possibly another coat to follow, but I'm wondering what to finish it with. Maritime wisdom suggests that you shouldn't paint drums on winches because the paint layer itself can be a weakness, but if I don't then the drum will do the same again, and the usual solution on a boat is to plaster everything with axle grease, which isn't going to work well with Dyneema
Two questions: has anybody seen a winch drum actually fail with serious corrosion (and if so how bad does it need to be), and secondly, any thoughts about whether to paint it and what with? I'm thinking about just a thin coat of spray primer over the Kurusted layer, and then a thin top coat of spray paint, just to keep the moisture out.
The root cause I think is that the synthetic rope tends to hold moisture against the drum, which I suppose is inevitable - I probably should take it off once in a while and dry it, but realistically I probably can't be bothered!
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On 10/23/2018 at 1:19 PM, Lightning said:
LR recommendation is 48psi for the rear tyres on a 110 TD5 SW
The idea is to get the suspension dampers doing the work and not the tyres, as that will result in a bouncy ride.
Land Rover tyre pressures are mostly carp in my opinion. I've never run any vehicle of mine with over 40psi in the tyres, and my 110 at the moment is running about 25 front 30 rear, admittedly in oversize 33x12.50R15. and at lower than UK road speeds.
Hard tyre pressures give a dreadful ride for the same reason low profile tyres do; the tyres have a critical role in ironing out the minor jiggles in the road, and if you remove the 'give' in the sidewall then you pay the price.
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Not those, but thanks.
I can't find any trace of it, which is really weird. Not sure if it was a recall, service action, special service message or what, but I remember it.
Still looking, so any further input welcome....
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That much air in the tyres will give a miserably hard ride IMHO
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This may be a long shot....
Many years ago there was a recall action or service action on the Defender handbrakes, which was something along the lines of the handbrake mechanism applying normally, but then under load, a part could move inside the mechanism, causing the handbrake to release (it could then be applied properly with another click or two). It was probably ten years ago, and I can't find it. The solution was something like changing a bolt in the mechanism for a different type.
Mrs BM's 110 is doing it, and it's quite dangerous because she can't haul the handbrake on too hard (she can't get it off again) and if you put it on 'normally' then it is prone to the mechanism moving inside the handbrake causing the vehicle to roll. I know there was a problem, and I know LR published a bulletin with a solution, but so far I have not been able to find it.
Does anybody on here know anything about it / have a copy? Ideally I want the bulletin, as that would have had both parts required and repair instructions.
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21 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Meh, the new one will do what it's designed for and no-one here is going to buy it they'll just carry on grumbling from the sidelines about how awful everything modern is
Actually I will quite likely buy it if they get it right. The odds of that happening aren't that good, based on the last few ideas rolled out of how to 'upgrade' a previously successful model, but I am both genuinely interested in how it turns out, and in a position to consider buying it.
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Having had the plastic-tanked radiator in my D2 fail, and knowing of dozens of others with the same disease, I wouldn't touch anything with plastic in it. Over the years I have had a couple of rad cores from Bearmach which were not a bad price and were very solid, even had the proper metal bung in rather than the crappy plastic ones.
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On 10/15/2018 at 11:18 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
Ah, I see two completely standard defenders in that picture...
And yes, each vehicle has its weak points but then an FL or D2 or P38 has a lot of strong points over a 90, this isn't about cherry-picking examples where X is better/worse than Y, my POINT is the massive negative conjecture about a vehicle we know almost nothing about, and nay-saying of things like independent suspension with no good reason.
I mean, someone in this thread actually cited the PCD of the wheels as proof it would be totally rubbish, what the hell are people in here smoking?
You can argue with the styling and the complexity of some of LR's stuff certainly but you really can't sensibly argue with how capable it is compared to almost anything else on the market .
The only mod to either Defender that is relevant to traction is changing the tyres. No diff locks or other traction aids. The rest of the mods are underbody protection, roof rack, winch etc. The two FL2 also had their tyres changed to the largest and most aggressive that we could find to be more suited the conditions, so that would basically be 1:1
Can't argue with the PCD comment being a bit spurious though....
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On 10/13/2018 at 7:56 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
At which point you pick a different line and carry on - I've off-roaded stuff from Mouse to saloon cars and I would happily bring my old Freelander 1 out to play against your Defender any day of the week.
Land Rover know what they're doing better than people here give credit for, it's a really odd attitude - the Defender is the best thing ever but LR are somehow a bunch of clueless clowns who ruin everything they touch?
This was one of many taken on the Freelander 2 launch event in 2006, can't remember how many tows I notched up by the end of the week but it was quite a lot. We just parked the Defenders either side for the photo, as the driver at this point was a LRE instructor showing what the vehicle was capable of
Electronic traction aids are fine on test tracks or light off road conditions and work well while they work, but they aren't up to any sort of sustained use. I was away in pretty wet conditions with a bunch of people a couple of weekends ago with a Discovery 2 shod with MTs - two full days driving. I honestly can't remember how many times the ETC overheated and shut down on the second day but it was into the dozens, and they really aren't much good in one wheel drive.
The last bit is easy to explain ... no part of the Defender was built by the current bunch!
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Used blue Bowrope for years, 10mm has stalled my Milemarker (only managed it once) so a vote for that. I have the green Chyneema-Bowrope on the new winch on my TDCi, but not used it in anger yet.
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23 hours ago, Cynic-al said:
I'm not sure they are even going to make it to someones garage
My pickup has the 8 speed ZF, obviously they alter the gearing and its response to each application, however even though the changes are seamless and very quick it's still as dim-witted and clumsy as all the other autos out there at junctions etc. You roll up to a junction and there's a gap so you put your foot down, nothing happens, cars coming so you panic and put your foot down more, nothing happens, you clench then all of a sudden the thing takes off like a rocket and launches you into the field opposite. Nowhere near as gentle as the old range rover slushy hydraulic auto was, ok it used to drain most of your engine power but it was more predictable and always seemed to give you drive.
Absolutely how I feel about the latest autos. I drove Dad's Disco 4 for a while when it was new, and at low speed I found it quite indecisive and not at all smooth. On my old Discovery V8 auto, plant it and you'd go, any situation, any time. It was brilliant and as you got to 40 in 1st gear if you were in a hurry, and about 70 in 2nd, delays changing gear were not really a thing. The ultimate power may have been less but the confidence that it would do what you want (and that you knew what it would do) was there. The only gear that was unresponsive in terms of acceleration was 4th, so if you were in a hurry or feeling keen you just leave it in 3 and enjoy
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On 10/6/2018 at 12:43 PM, Happyoldgit said:
Please God don't let this end up as a multi page thread of "I've heard it from a reliable source in JLR senior management" type bollox full of conjecture and what ifs the likes of which has been running on another forum since Noah was still counting them out two by two.
Please God no, please...
Tell you what, here's my last comment in one of the new Defender type threads over there, I'll put on my gypsy rings and pop in my gold teeth especially for you...
Is that some aluminium corrosion I can see in that crystal ball Mr HOG sire?
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My first thought was 'yuck' but if you download some of the larger image files circulating and zoom in, it's obvious that there is quite a lot of body padding to change the shape, so I think what we will see is more straight sided 'traditional Defender' shape than you'd think, following the window lines suggests that anyway. Anyway, even if it is a bit D4-esque, that's 5x better than anything else now being built.
However, echo all the comments about low slung rear silencers (something that the SWB version didn't have), silly little wheels/tyres, and the rather exposed and probably quite short-travel independent suspension arms. It'll have Terrain Response or something, so will perform well on a test track with wheels waving in the air to impress the punters, but probably (like the other models) have significant shortcomings in practice, where nasty things like ruts get in the way.
But that isn't the market it is aiming at, it's going to be a Chelsea tractor which at most will be seen behind a horsebox in a muddy field, and if you can actually buy MTs in whatever daft size wheels it gets fitted with, it will probably do fine at that.
I may still look at one, depending on the price and whether it comes with a decent engine (i.e. not a 2L 4cyl), but it would be a candidate to replace my Shogun, not to replace any of our Defenders. The replacement for one of those, when the time comes, will probably be an Ibex if they are still being made. If it's £40k and has a 2L engine, I'll go and buy another Mitsubishi, which three years ago was £25k with a 3.2L engine.
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On 9/19/2018 at 12:13 PM, Ally V8 said:
I think you will find that ZF revised their service intervals for these boxes well after they were out in service - and starting to give problems. Which is nothing compared to what is going on with some of their current 9 speed auto's.
Giving an autobox 9 speeds is like giving a woman 48 pairs of shoes. Too much time thinking about choices, not enough time moving forward
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On some vehicles, and I forget which ones, there was a problem at one point with the interior sensor getting damp inside and causing random alarms. You can tell what the previous alarm triggers were caused by with a diagnostic, which is the best way. But locking with the key will isolate that sensor as a test, as stated above.
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What to look for...?
A Shogun
Ah, is that my coat? Thank you
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Not just fighting the compression?
300Tdi belt breakages usually only bend pushrods (always), break rotator caps (frequently) and break the actual rocker itself (occasionally). Not sure I have ever seen one with more than that so if it is locking solid due to some mechanical issue then something odd is going on. I guess you may have to take the head off to make sure there isn't a bit of valve that has come off or something.
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3 hours ago, Magnet6x6 said:
BogMonster I have to say I haven’t driven the manual. My comments come from the perspective of moving from being a manual or nothing for off road person to driving an auto 110 and my D3. All I can say is that I’m a convert. Try making a gear change in sand with a manual, its doable but, well momentum is every thing
Are you describing indecisiveness whilst off road? If so so that’s entirely possible, its generated by the selected programme and the surface conditions. Its cured by locking down the gearbox for the speed, revs and comfort that you’re happy with.
If its happening on road that's quite a different issue.Its easy to plough them in, I’d like to say it doesn’t happen to me any more but I can’t fib.
I’ve driven manual for so long that when its been a while between trips I forget and drive the “old way”. After some shovel work I’m reminded to check that I have the appropriate tyre pressure for the conditions and “DSC off, DSC off, DSC off” picture head slapping here :0) DSC re-sets with every start up and every Terrain Response change to setting selected. So the golden rule is make sure the DSC is off every time you go to move.Its a show stopper. Also when severely bogged rock climbing mode is your friend. Not too sure about that photo cos I don’t do mud :0)
Buried past the axles you can easily self recover with max trax and minimal digging
As was mentioned earlier its so comfortable its really easy to forget just how fast you’re going
I was meaning on road for the D4. I haven't done any meaningful off-road work with D3/D4 here, I don't have one, and they suffer from being far too heavy, having small tyres and too many fragile bits underneath that tend to get left behind plus plastic bumpers which suffer the same fate. Most terrain is soft peat so you need a ... robust ... attitude to conservation of momentum at times.
The preferred vehicle of choice for off road use here looks more like this, my two:
I had a good chuckle at your previous post about off road experience, very different to here but sounds like fun
Anti roll bars and suspension lifts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Ta, I might look at dropping the mounts as you suggest. It's got quite a choppy ride off road compared to the Tdi, so in the longer term they may come off completely, but at the moment the 300 does the brunt of the proper off road work.
CD, no, I am doing it primarily for clearance with big tyres plus a bit of extra ground clearance. When I started driving Land Rovers in the mid 80s there were no roads at all in this country, not where I was growing up, so over the years I've pretty much figured out what I want out of a vehicle off road, which is why they both ended up looking more or less the same. Just that these new fangled things like anti roll bars are a new problem