Landrovernuts
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Posts posted by Landrovernuts
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One pipe goes to the expansion tank and one pipe is attached to the bleed on the inlet manifold penthouse (carbs). I have converted to EFI and I have this now connected to the inlet manifold throttle heater thingy return. Yes you can join them together as done by many people including myself,not ideal but seems to work. If you do use a tee, use a brass one and not a plastic one from B&Q!
Toby
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I always run NGK BPR6ES on my tuned 4.2 and have never had any problems and think most people swear by them. I did used to have issues with plug leads as I used to be away for 4-6 months at a time and they used to get damp, however this has stopped since fitting very expensive (but also very good) Magnecor items.
What are the plugs like when you removed them?
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It seems there are plenty Marine Engineers that are Landy fans, including me! Must admit that I was steam for 90% of my time at sea until I went to the dark side!!!
Toby
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Seen plenty of them before on the main engines of supply boats on Wartsila engines, as you say plenty reliable enough! Yes BBC and ABB are the same company.
Toby
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That prop angle looks far to steep in my opinion. I have OME springs on my 90 and while that is probably just under 2 inchs, the back prop angle is not as steep as that. I am inclined to say you have more than a 2 inch lift and may be worth measuring.
Toby
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6B engines are anything from 130 to 350 hp. They are also used in many trucks much bigger than 7.5 tonnes and also coachs and boats! I used to work for Cummins and it is a fantastic engine (along with the C series, 855 and the K19) however would say that they are OTT in a landy especially when you can tune a TD5 to what ever you want (within reason). If you do use a 6B have a look at the cam before you install it as some fleet use (like stagecoach) use recycled oil and it knocks the cams out which is a pain in the arse to change and remember that by the time they are on ebay they are normally completely knackered after covering huge miles. Something else to consider is a 6B while can rev to about 2500 RPM they are not happy when they do it (and fuel consumption goes sky high) and you may need to raise your gearing substaintially depending on drive train choice. Do not even think about using the later 5.9 litre engines (ISB engines) as they are carp and will cost you a fortune in ECMs and injectors.
Toby
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Agree with the Greenstuff comments - they are bloody awful especially so when cold or wet.
Toby
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This is the first failure that I have had. The switch was second hand when I first had it and I have had it 6 years, so probably not done bad service. It is also not switching the compressor direct, but as suggested a 30 amp relay.
Toby
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Thanks - thats the one!
Toby
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I am sure I have read somewhere that there is a cheaper alternative to the genuine ARB compressor pressure switch, but cannot seem to find it in the search facility - probably not trying hard enough!
Does anyone know where I can get the cheaper alternative switch from (and who makes it etc) as mine is playing up and think that over £40 (Devon 4x4) for an ARB one is taking the tiddle?
According to my gauge my existing switch did cut in at 75 psi and cut out at 95 psi.
Toby
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Only just noticed this and I am on the V8 forum! From what i remember from my 3.5 V8 in my 90 that had SU carbs, the pipe fitting closest to the dizzy on the advance capsule is left open as it needs to breath to let the advance and retard casule move (blocking it will stop it). Mine was open and that is how it was from the factory. The big but is there are different advance capsules from what I recall (for 3.5, 3.9, 4.2 and for carbs and injection) as yours started as a carb version, I think you are pretty safe to leave it as is (but leave the dizzy side connection open) providing if you give it a good suck that it visably advances the dizzy (works!).
I am now converted to injection and have to be honest have left my advance capsule disconnected and adjusted my timing to give my dynamic advance without using the advance which is prone to sticking seizing anyway.
Toby
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I am not sure if it is the way the picture is taken or just me, but the top liner picture looks like the liner has dropped in the block!
Toby
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It was me who sent the pictures! I do not know the part number, but downpipes are non cat 3.9 efi as fitted to 1990 RR Classic. When I get home (in Germany at the moment) I can take photo of cross member clearance if you are planning on putting the exhaust above. From memory it is not alot of room as you will need to be at a height where you are very close to front prop UJ.
Toby
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It goes below, but is not as bad as it seems, I will try and PM you before I go today.
Toby
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Will do, but you will need to wait until the weekend, just got to go to Israel for a couple of days. Work getting in the way yet again!
Toby
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I have 3.9efi down pipes (4 pipes) from a range rover classic and a crossmember from the same vehicle, this bolts to a 90 TD5 midbox and tailpipe. I had to make a home made centre hanger (easy to do) and modify the back hanger. It hangs off TD5 rubber hangers now which eliminates vibration. The exhaust seemed (I cannot prove) to improves the engines ability to rev and makes it quiet without loosing the V8 noise. I would say that it improves the fuel consumption, but with a 4.2 V8 I won't bother!!!
If you wait until the Devon weather stops P*****g down, I will take some pictures. My manifolds are heavily ported and flowed (to match the V8D heads) which may be where some of the gains come from.
Toby
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I have this set up on my 90 and yes it does work, however I did need to change the chassis cross member to the range rover classic version otherwise the pipes will hit the 90 chassis cross member. My Y peice flange back is TD5.
Well worth doing as it seems to improve the exhaust flow and is nice and quiet.
Toby
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I thought copper was harder than phospher bronze?
Toby
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I cannot quite see from the photo, but it could be the centre diff planet gear thrust washers. They are copper from what I remember.
Toby
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An old TD rad is thinner than aTDi, but full width and comes with an inbuilt oil cooler. Not sure if it will give you the space you want, but easy to fit and cheap to buy.
Toby
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I got an long range fuel tank from Frogs Island about 8 years ago that fits under the floor in the back of my 90 and holds about 50 litres of fuel. It fills from the orginal filler (filler pipe is Y shaped) and allows you to fill either tank. I pump the fuel with a cheap low pressure fuel pump into the main tank via the return pipe from the engine.
It costs a fortune to fill both the tanks, but does let me drive from Devon to the Lake District with a little spare (with a 4.2 V8)without stopping.
I can take some pictures if you want?
Toby
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I totally agree with Diff. 90 HD rear and discovery Tdi rears are also dual rate. To get the true picture, get both the ratings. 110 front spring bottom coils touch even from the factory as pointed out and is a design feature. I had a set of standard 110 springs and a set of 90 HD springs on a V8 90 and the the front bottom coils touched and the rear top coils touched. The touching coils even have a piece of rubber tube around (genuine LR)for this very reason.
Toby
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From what I remember we used to hold the followers up in pairs with rubber bands to pull out the cam and then drop them down, if you did want to take the cam out! I would check the valves (you will need to after skimming to get the swarf out as already mentioned) and then go from there. I cannot remember, but is it not easy enough to drop the sump to check the cam?
I have to say this is not the best engine (neither is the ISB5.9) that Cummins made, the old 6B and 4B engines were much better and reliable, well maintained ones used to clock up many thousands of miles and could make 350 hp.
Toby
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From what I remember you cannot get the followers out that easy, think the cam has to come out and then the followers drop down. Best way to see the cam is from the bottom with the sump off!
Toby
V8 Exhaust
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have on my 90 EFI manifolds to which is bolted a range rover 3.9 EFI set of downpipes (I expect Discovery ones are the same) which is then bolted to the TD5 center silencer and then the TD5 back pipe. Fits a treat, but you will need a Range rover tubular style center crossmember fitted as the efi downpipes hit the normal landy crossmember. You will have to adapt/modify the exhaust hangers, but is a simple job. I did send some photos of my set up to someone on here a while ago, but cannot remember who. Can do the same if you want? It is a nice relatively free flowing exhaust that has a nice burble and is quiet when on the road.
Toby