Landrovernuts
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Posts posted by Landrovernuts
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Dave, thanks for your time today. We will check the airflow meter wiring after next week when I am home next as we are struggling to believe that three VDO air flow meters are faulty (may be!) and go from there. The starting issue will have to remain a mystery for a while to. I will check the glow plugs, but do not think this should be an issue as a TD5 should not need them especially at this time of year.
Toby
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Dave - PM sent, hope it went this time!
Toby
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Dave - sent you a PM, but not sure if it sent or not! Yes please, when could you do it? The land rover lives out towards Longdown, but could bring it in tomorrow morning.
Toby
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I will forget the numbers then! Done lots of purging and a new fuel filter, pump new, but of unknown origin. Despite its origin it maintains 4.2 bar fuel pressure even when starting and running under load, return line is also now completely air free which is more than can be said for before I did the injector seals!
Despite these issues, I am quite taken by the truck and even more surprisingly so is my wife and we are now looking for a 110 crew cab at the right price. God help me, that will be three land rovers.
Toby
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Thanks Neil - I will keep in touch. I am trying to get it hooked up before then as I normally only get to work on it every other week due to my work travel requirements, but if he has not will get him to meet you as we are only 7 miles from the university. When I did the injectors there was evidence of at least two leaking sooty carp up into the fuel side and also one injector clamp not torqued up!!! Definitely monkeys have been in there before!!! I got the injector codes while in there just to check the ecu has the correct codes logged. Each injector (green top) has a number in brackets under the code which I am assuming was the original injector location? This engine has 1,2,2,3 and 4 and I am assuming that someone has replaced one sometime also they were in the wrong order (1 was in 5, 2 in 4 and 3 etc). While a cracked head could be a possibility, I am temporarily ruling this out with the fuel side pressure test (done with the engine in various different positions) and the no loss of coolant or rise in sump levels.
Funny thing is I drove for about 100 miles not long ago and it did not miss a beat other than being slow (compared to my V8)!!
Toby
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Right Ladies and Gents - more help required!
Injector seals replaced with genuine parts and engine runs well after a few minutes of idling. The owner reports power well and truly back. One problem solved. Starting still an issue, almost like the fuel system is full of air. I have pressure tested the head and fuel cooler fuel side this holds 4.2 bar for half an hour with no pressure drop. I have fitted a section of clear pipe in the fuel return and absolutely no air bubbles and so I am steering towards an injector or electrical (more injector if the truth be told). Sump levels not dropping or more importantly rising and there is no loss of coolant.
Symptoms now turning over considerable turns before firing. When it does fire and start, it idles perfectly but when you put your foot down and try and bring it above idle it pours out white smoke which stinks of unburnt diesel. It is also very lumpy and you cannot drive it as it has no power. Give it a minute or two and it suddenly clears, revs cleanly and normal service resumes. At this time there is no air in the return line and the fuel pressure is also a constant 4.2 bar which is why I am thinking injector.
I really want it plugged in to see if there is any fault codes and the owner is sort of believing me now! I am hoping he will do this next week while I am visiting two power stations in Turkey, however in the mean time has anyone any suggestions other than pulling the injectors and of course getting any fault codes?
Toby
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I thought MTF was Manual Transmission Fluid?
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Just a quick update as finally got to have a look at the truck. Still has no throttle response from cold despite idling perfectly and still has a large flat spot, but when revving seems to pull like a train. Fuel pressure is a constant 4.2 bar which seems fine, however when a clear hose was fitted in the fuel return there was large and very frequent air bubbles. This would appear to point to the injector seals. these were changed by the previous owner, but judging from his efforts on the brakes, I would question his ability to perform even the simplest tasks! The fuel filter head has been checked and appears fine and the filter air bleed valve has been replaced.
Lets hope it is the injector seals as this would seem a cheap fault to fix. Incidentally the oil level does not rise and does not smell of diesel.
Toby
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Thanks Neil - I will bear that offer in mind if we do not get it sorted. The new air flow meter is on, but he is away for a couple of days so cannot let me know if it is any better yet. Still got the throttle pedal to investigate and the fuel pressure to check.
Toby
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Thanks - I will delve into this further as the drivers side bulkhead flap is slight twisted and will of course have leaked. He is putting this right now, but the hinge pins have seized solid which probably was the cause of the twist! Funny my 90 (1988) has large split pins in and the flap hinges and have never been an issue!!!
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Sorry forgot to mention that it is a 53 plate and a 15P engine!
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A friend of mine has just bought a 110 double cab for his work and has an issue with it after starting from cold. It will start and idle perfect, then when you put your foot down nothing happens - it just idles (smoothly) then after a couple of minutes the revs slowly start to build up. If you leave it for a couple of minutes idling it is then fine to. It does this when cold or when it has been allowed to cool down. When it is warm no problem. We drove it from Dover back to the West Country and have to say it drove quite well, but now we have it back we have found a few issues with it such as the air flow meter is unplugged and plugging it back in it runs fine just gutless. That is first on the list of things to do!
He has got receipts for the usual TD5 items that periodically need replacement which includes injector harness, injector seals, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump replaced and the EGR has been blanked off. I have taken the red plug off the ECU and cleaned it out with electroclean, but to be honest there was oil there but not that much and a new fuel filter has just been put on. It is however at the back of my mind if cheap or bits from a blue box have been used that we could be replacing bits again!
Obviously he is going to change the air flow meter, but just wondered if anyone have a fault code reader in the Exeter area who could just plug it in and check to see if there are any faults logged. I was going to take out the fuel pump (now has a hole cut in the rear tub) and just check the fuel pump filter as the fuel filter was full of rubbish. I was also going to check the fuel pressure to make sure it is coming straight up to pressure, but not sure where to put the gauge in - is there a test point? I have tested the fuel temperature sensor and the water temperature sender temperature resistance values (both are within limits which I have now forgotten) and the temperature gauge works fine. The throttle seems to have a fair amount of travel before anything actually happens and may be there is an issue with the throttle pedal, but cannot see the connection to the temperature. May just be how a TD5 is (I have a V8 and throttle response is instant!)? I was also going to get the injector codes while I change the rocker gasket (leaking) just to make sure if when we can get it plugged in the ECU has the correct codes input.
If anyone has any ideas or a fault code reader please shout!
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Just seen this and went to do survey but now shut. What are you doing at Shields? I was there for 3 years - marine engineering back in 1988.
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Did not mean to be an echo - because I was on the iPhone!
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When I converted mine to EFI, I used the short RR cable which goes from the transfer box to the transducer and then a speedo cable from an NAS 90/110 which connects straight from the transducer direct to the speedo. Cables are the right length. Got my cables from the main dealer with no issues despite being for NAS. They were abit pricy from memory but saved so much faffing about!!
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When I converted mine to EFI, I used the short RR cable which goes from the transfer box to the transducer and then a speedo cable from an NAS 90/110 which connects straight from the transducer direct to the speedo. Cables are the right length. Got my cables from the main dealer with no issues despite being for NAS. They were abit pricy from memory but saved so much faffing about!!
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Thanks Ralph, works a treat now. Was only joking if anyone wants it! Daft thing is this one has been reliable.
Toby
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Thanks for your help - will give it ago when I am allowed out to play next. Anyone want a dim - dip relay same as pictured above!!?
Toby
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I have the black box you pictured Ralph under the clocks! Thought it was a voltage regulator and hence having the heat sink fins and that is why I did not mention it. Right, if I remove the black box what wires if any need jumping or is the sort that you just remove?
Thanks for your help
Toby
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I have fitted relays to my headlights and completely rewired them yesterday and what a transformation - headlights are much brighter and gets my vote as a cheap but excellent modification if anyone is looking to do it.
Today I thought I will bypass the dim - dip relay and after reading the previous threads on this, I thought a five minute job! Well I cannot find either a black relay or a pink relay behind the dash. Infact behind the dash I have a yellow voltage senistive relay and two small green relays - none or which have the wire colours in connection with the dim dip circuit. Easy I thought look under the driver inner wing for the ballast resistor and isolate the circuit there, but no cannot find that either. Does anyone know where else land Rover in their wisdom fitted this relay or resistor (tried fuse panel also, but no joy) so I can isolate it as my new headlight relay does not like it when on side lights only (as expected)?
The land Rover is 1989 V8 county (90) if that helps and any suggestions gratefully received.
Toby
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When I put the EFI on my 90 V8 from my classic that I scrapped, I used a new RRC intank fuel pump which was adjusted to the depth of the 90 tank. Straight fit! Slight problem is that it came in a blue box and just over 8000 miles later it has gone bang - some may say no surprise there then.
Just to get it back on the road, I am going to do the same again, but with an Allmakes pumps which are cheap and will get me going again for minimum hassle and cost until I can sort the fuel system out properly.
Not being a fan of intank pumps, as one burned out in my previous 90 completely blackening the wires and not being a fan of electricity in fuel tanks, I would quite like to fit an external pump and will probably do this later in the year when it does not matter so much if it is off the road. My initial thoughts is to fit a low pressure (Facet solid state as I already have one which is brand new) fed off the fuel pump relay which feeds the existing pump which will pump to an external Bosch type fuel injection pump. I would anticipate putting in a return line with a restrictor so as to keep a slight positive pressure on the Bosch pump.
I just think this is quite complicated and expensive would rather just fit one external pump which did everything - if one exists. I know roller vane injection pumps do not last long if asked to suck! Does anyone know of a pump which would be OK which I can mount down on the chassis member so at about half tank height and what has everyone else done when fitting EFI to their V8 landies? The pump would need to keep a fairly highly tuned 4.2 happy! I am all ears to other suggestions or just do the twin pump set up?
Toby
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Not sure how compliant BA's old jumbos are though!!
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You learn something new every day! Looks like you can get to the T5 round about however as the boundary does a horse shoe shape at this point.
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I travel to Heathrow every week and as far as I am aware if you follow the signs for T5 and go around the north perimeter road to T1, 2 and 3 you do not go in the LEZ. If you follow the signs for T1, 2 and 3 from the M4 then you do go in the LEZ. Not sure if it helps for T4 though.
TD5 Engine Response
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Not really sure as the roads are so small on the way back that it was hard to tell. Think John was going to leave it unplugged for a while to see and I will investigate the low MAF reading when I get home next week. As for checking the crank sensor, we could do that after I have checked the MAF wiring. I know it has had a new crank sensor, starter and battery just before we picked it up - according to the previous receipts!