Landrovernuts
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Posts posted by Landrovernuts
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My RRC and my current td5, the electric fans only cut in when the temperature rises. The point is that they have both electric and viscous fans when fitted with air conditioning. This conversion has air conditioning and a gearbox oil cooler in front of the rad so I would say needs both.
Toby
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Sounds like you need viscous fan and electric fans as per the LR set up (RRC has big fan and twin electric fans and my TD5 has a viscous and a single electric fan)rather than rely on one or the other.
Toby
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They are drains fitted in the doors - I have them in my td5 doors, although the drivers one just fell out when I removed the door card. The passenger door has one to, but I cannot remember how it attached. I think they go at the top under the window weather seal at the back.
Toby
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I have taken many heater boxes out of 90/110 landies, however I have never taken one out of a Td5 defender fitting with air conditioning. Is it the same or do you have to remove loads of other stuff (air condition fascia or evaporator) just to get to the bolts? Only asking as I have a wind noise on my 110 and my passengers all say it is coming from the vicinity of the heater to bulkhead seal and was rather hoping it will be a quick job to change it!
Before anyone says door seals, window seals or vent seals - they have all been done!
Toby
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I am lucky enough to have a dishwasher in the shed. I did put some stuff in the house dishwasher once, but I got serious earache when it turned dark grey!
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Easy have done two recently. Access to a large vice, some brass drifts and a dishwasher also helps!! If you get the overhaul kits they come with all the new stake nuts, seals, bearings, crush tubes diff lock switch etc. Pay extra to get Corteco seals and Timken bearings.
Toby
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I came back from a trip to Bodo and Halsa (about 75 miles south of Bodo) for work and can only agree with the above - the roads in this area are anything but straight with absolutely stunning scenary. the locals said that normally the cheapest beer was in hotels and they were right, the beer was only £7 for 0.4L!!!
I saw an ex MOD 130 ambulance yesterday being used for a camper van that was staying on a completely deserted beach.
Do it you will not regret it.
Toby
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My 110 is a TD5 and is running 265/75 tyres so is now higher geared than a Discovery. According to the Ashcroft calculator it was doing 2900 rpm at 70 and should have dropped to 2400 rpm at 70 with the ratio change. The rev counter now indicates 2500 rpm but suspect the speedo is slightly out as the Nanocom agrees with the Rev counter.
Toby
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Having just fitted a 1.2 tbox to my 110, I thought I should just add my thoughts and it is much better!! While I haven't towed 3 tonnes yet, it pulled 2.5 tonne I for trailer with no issues across some steep Devon roads and still pulled my empty trailer back up Holden hill outside Exeter at 65 mph. It sits at 70mph on the motorway now at 2400 rpm and is just so much better. The engine does have a bigger charge air cooler and it is chipped, but unsure who did it or what stage if was done to other than it goes well. Boost runs at 1 bar and is the standard turbo so nothing serious.
All in all I am a happy bunny!!
Toby
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Sitting in the drivers seat, the off side is the right side (off side from kerb) and near side is the left (side closest to the kerb) - so you are correct (right!!!!).
Toby
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As far as I know parts are still available for the 10 spline ARB diffs - try Devon 4x4 and Ashcroft for parts. If it leaked before being stored the chances are it will still leak now. I think the seals are X section but may be someone else will confirm it. I have a 10 spline ARB also which I cannot sell, which I am sure was fitted with X section seals when it was overhauled by Steve at Crown as they were supposed to be better. The plastic cage inside quite often fails to so when you get it in bits (if you do!) then replace this to. Ashcroft used to do an uprated steel one but not sure if they still do or not.
Try Nige (Hybrid from Hell) on here, he will tell you all you need to know and can rebuild them to!
Toby
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I have just got home and rescued the greenstuff pads from the bin if anyone wants to try them (fronts for a 110 and some 90's)they have loads of life left!
Toby
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If doing the filter and checking fuel pump filter does not work try the filter in the regulator failing this test the fuel pressure. Should be 4 bar although everyone I have tested is giving a good 4.2 bar.
Toby
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Yes, it is like black rubber which appears to have like a Kevlar weave in it (or similar). Costs pennies and sorts the problem out! So far from all the pads I have tried the Delphi ones are the best (in my view!). I used to like Pagid, but they changed their formula. I have been around the Ferodo factory in the Czech Republic and even the staff there say the fiction materials are changing in order to make the pads last much longer at the expense of disc wear and noise. I absolutely hate the green stuff pads which seem to be more brass than anything else and in wet weather are diabolical as they seemed not to grip the disc in wet weather and then suddenly grip. Other pads I have tried do not seem to do this and so these pads got chucked in the bin!!
Obviously this is my experience and others will differ!
Toby
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I have just fitted Delphi pads all round on my 110 and the brakes are transformed from whatever the previous pads were (fitted with previous owner). I did however fit the anti squeal material that you can get from Mintex, to the bottom edge of the pad steel back to stop them rattling in the calipers. They have been perfect since. All pads that I have ever fitted to any of my previous Land Rovers have always rattled!
Toby
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While all the above will do no harm at all, I still think the issue is needle related. Standard needles will not give the right mixture if you have fitted freer flowing air filters.
Toby
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I am sure if you google it you will get some suggestions. I seem to remember using BBG needles when I had carbs, but depends entirely on the engine. I used to have boxes of needles, but gave them away when I went injection. I would say your set up needs different needles to standard.
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That looks like the right timing pointer, but as already said a tad bent! Just tried to watch video on my phone but could not hear anything, but holiday inn internet that is just pants. One thing I would say is that if the carbs have been set to standard then it will run like a bag of s..t unless you have the standard air filter on. Even changing to K and N type requires a needle change, so put the standard air filters back on and try it.
Toby
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I have had an FD 35T engine in a 90 and it is an absolute stonking engine, pulled like a train and seemed to be everlasting. The problem I had in the late 1990's was getting spares which was exceedingly difficult and very expensive and do not suppose it has got any better. The intercooler fitted in the picture is not big enough! I had a TDI one converted and it strangled it. When an Allard version was fitted it was transformed.<br /><br />Toby
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Evening All
Just looking at the Land Rover manual for rebuilding my swivel housings tomorrow (between the rain showers!) and cannot quite believe the torque quoted for the lower pin to housing bolts. Manual says 66 - 88 Nm for both top and bottom - surely that is not right (I can understand it for the top ones but not the bottom)? I seem to recall someone saying before that the manual has a typo on these torque values, but may be just imagining it!
Also what is the correct preload - manual says 1.16 - 1.46 kg after the initial inertia from the track rod ball joint hole just want to confirm as the last housings I rebuilt (a fair while ago) had a much higher preload, but they were railko bush type.
Toby
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Yes mine unscrewed, but seem to remember there was a tab on it. My retaining ring came off with my locking ring, but once separated went back together ok. Like you I dumped a load of Shells finest over the forcourt and ended up working with a full tank of fuel. I did catch as much as possible which I used for cleaning transfer box bits!
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I may be wrong but it looks like the retaining ring has jumped its thread on one side. I had horrendous issues with mine recently until I took it all to bits removed the retaining ring, cleaned out the recess and then put it back together again. Once it is in the right position, it takes very little force to push the pump in and screw up the locking ring. I found this out after an afternoon of swearing!
Toby
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That is factory gearing and I think bang on with your tyres. The overdrive will be the over gearing and would think you would be better to remove it and save the weight!
If the engine is not pulling those ratios easily then I would say look at the engine. A friends V8 110 which was standard pulled really well.
Toby
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I used both silencers on my V8 as I wanted it to be quiet, however it still retained the V8 noise which became impressive when above 3000 RPM. I found that previous noisy exhausts were really annoying but understand that various owners have varying noise tolerance levels after a while!!
Toby
3,9 V8 overheats when idling
in International Forum
Posted
Why don't you try fitting both the TD5 style fans (mine only has one, so you are already 50% better electric fan wise and covering more of the radiator) then think about the viscous fan shrouds if that fails?
Toby