Landrovernuts
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Posts posted by Landrovernuts
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Looks like an FD35 to me to. I had an FD35T which was a stonking engine, but getting parts for it was a big problem.
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Thanks Ralph.
Toby
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Anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for a 110 TD5 (which is just after the change over to the 15 engine) or more specifically the wire colours for the head light main and dipped beam from the connectors just under the bonnet on each side of the bulhead? Ta!
Toby
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I just have an aversion to those pumps after having to change so many. Never seemed to have any drivability issues and think from memory they were fitted from 210 HP upwards, but do agree the torque is starting to become savage at this point. I always thought they were less clattery and smoother to.
Toby
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...I would get rid of that crappy fuel pump and put the Bosch inline one on!
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I see now! I could not quite see it in the first video clip. Fixed many of them buggers being an ex Cummins Engineer!
Toby
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That looks like a massive turbo on the 110 in that video clip? I couldn't make out what engine it was but looks like he may have some lag!!!
Sorry for the change of subject!
Toby
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Not sure what happened to the letter sizes above, but seems Ok now!
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V8 90's did have 1.21 (or there abouts) transfer box from the factory and 110's had 1.41 and yes the 90 came on 205 tyres which accounts for the ratio differences. Both should do more than 80MPH if so inclined as standard (both my V8 90's did anyway!)
Toby
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May be not, I think the knock sensor fitting on the core plug was oval with two raised prongs sticking out unless of course they changed design.
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I think it may be for fitting a knock sensor - but could be wrong!
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Sorry - only just noticed that! I think the studs can have a triangle in the end as well as a slot if they are the right length.
Toby
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You also need to have the thinner later (metric) style drive flanges as the alloys do not fit over the earlier thicker flanges. What axles do you have or what year? There are ways around this apparently, but in my view are a total bodge and I wouldn't do it.
Toby
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The shackles I had, and still have some where I think, are shorter and for the back end reducing the ride height. Even got them from a dealer many moons ago!
Toby
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You could try the Nobody Inn in Doddiscombsleigh as they have a field and it is slightly closer to Exeter than the Teign house. They have done some camping before but then stopped, however if you mention Toby said to try they may! Speak to Sue as she is the boss.
Toby
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Teign House pub has a field that does camping in the Teign valley. Area of outstanding natural beauty, edge of Dartmoor and only 7 miles form Exeter (westpoint - if you are going there is 8 miles!) and of course next to a pub! If you do not like the Teign House pub, there is the Nobody Inn and the Manor within 1 mile.
http://teignhouseinn.co.uk.gridhosted.co.uk/
Toby
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I am sure that this used to be, and may be still a popular conversion to change the rear springs. I seem to remember that the ride actually improved as the 109 springs were dual rate with the lower rate being lower than that of the 88 springs. I am not sure what it does to the ride height, but I know there are two lengths of rear spring shackle as I experimented with both when I had vibration issues on my 88 series 1 so you can reduce the ride height by an inch or so. I think it has gone out of favour now due to the introduction of parabolic springs.
Toby
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Yes, after the fuel cooler. Run it in a loop and if there is air you will see it easily. Cured with a new air fuel filter bleed valve, injector seals - then he sold it! It may not be your issue though but worth eliminating.
Put the hose on with good clips etc as you do not want fuel spraying out of any leaks - there is my get out! Google it as there are loads of video clips of people doing this on youtube!
Toby
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Nothing wrong with the OME. I would probably use OME shocks with the springs however and you may find you need to do no further modifications. I didn't need extended brake hoses, but I did need a double Hookes front prop to stop vibrations after fitting castor corrected radius arms.
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Put a clear section of hose in the fuel return line and check for bubbles. A friend had the exact same issues which turned out to be air in fuel issues.
Toby
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On my 110 I am using standard 110 rears the progressive ones (RKB101111) and as they are not handed I am using the NRC9449 on both sides to help cope with the winch and winch bumper. The shocks are Bilstein and I think they are very good, I previously always had OME shocks but while very good think they are bloody expensive? The ride is firm but not harsh and suits me and as I suppose is as close to factory considering the extra front weight - however what I like may not be what others like! I have standard anti roll bars to.
As pointed out the harshness could be the shocks depending what you are using, but rather like my 110 set up at the moment!
Toby
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I have never put 35" tyres on a Landie, so cannot help you there. What I would say is that normally OME only gives about a 1.5" lift (751 and 762 springs on my old 90) which from my point of view is more than adequate and would not go any more other you will (or may!) need to caster correct the front axle, fit longer brake hoses and double hookes front prop etc. It will also have awful handling and roll like a ship in a force 12 gale. I would not skimp on shocks especially when raising the C of G of the vehicle and would say to fit OME, Koni Heavytrack or Bilstein.
For what it is worth I have a 110 now which sits on HD front springs and standard rear springs (progressive type) and is about as high as I would want it and still handles well (Bilstein shocks), however not sure if this would work with 35" tyres - may be someone more educated will be along shortly to advise.
Toby
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I would say Td5 fans as a minimum, if you can fit better do so! As for the viscous fan make sure you have the right fan for your engine as I think serpentine water pumps turn backwards compared to the earlier types and that will just screw everything up!! Do one thing at a time, so you know what works. I would say this will work as it is then roughly as built by Land Rover and that worked.
I didn't have any cooling issues on my 4.2 V8, but I did not have air con or gearbox oil coolers to contend with and that was with a standard V8 radiator. I did have the big EFI type fan from an RRC and I used a RRC fan cowl butchered on the ends to fit in the 90 engine bay.
Toby
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I think you can butcher a standard RRC fan shroud to fit I think if that helps.
Toby
TD5 Nanocom Error Code
in International Forum
Posted
You can test the condenser fan using the Nanocom - I cannot remember where it is but I found it while playing around with it. I also have this error code up all the time and like you I clear it and it comes back every time the engine is started. I seem to recal that other defenders that I have plugged into also have this error code up.