=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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I just spotted that...
£30/pair posted.
The ones pictured however have a machined nozzle, not printed so were a tenner more.. I think he was running out of print capacity!
Which printer have you got? Stuff like this may inspire me to get one - I have a feeling it would be one of those things that you never think you will need, but will be incredibly useful for making random widgets when you get one!
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The seats in the pic look like they might be something like Smart car seats - certainly never seen them fitted like that before though!
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There's a chap over on defender2 who made some adjustable floor vents on a 3D printer, posted up the finished product and prompted a flurry of "Can you make me a set?" replies...
Mine arrived this morning, I have to say I'm pretty impressed and surprised that nobody has done similar before - I know there's been discussions on here about adding additional vents but not a lot really came of it... Really shows how things like 3D printing have come on, and what you can achieve with a bit of ingenuity!
For those that can't make it out from the pic, the round bit of the vent swivels, so you can direct the airflow - point it at the driver, point it at the window etc etc...
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On 05/03/2018 at 2:24 PM, Jimsky Korsokov said:
The WARNING is be careful what window seal you buy. He did not rate the BritPart one (actually he refused to come if I had one of those) - claimed they were really inflexible and difficult to install. Mine was not genuine and did cause a bit of grief but the overall result is excellent. Well worth doing.
On my old 90 we had to take the screen out - using a britpart seal it wouldn't go back in, my Dad tried and tried and eventually gave up after cracking the screen. He got the local windscreen fitter out who took one look at the seal and refused to use it, it's a few years back and I seem to remember he said it was slightly too slack to fit well.
As with anything that comes in a blue box, it *might* be OK, but there's a high chance it's not (and is probably different to the same part number in a different blue box elsewhere in the shop!)
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Ours loves to help too - usually by the placement of a cold wet nose on any piece of exposed flesh when you are doing something awkward underneath a vehicle. That and the aforementioned pinching of anything cardboard / paper / gloves / screwdrivers and antics in the garden!
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Dbl Post...
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On 17/12/2017 at 2:37 PM, SteveG said:
It was probably a Ford Explorer.
I was in San Jose, California last week. One of my colleagues got an Uber - a 'Range Rover' turned up - with LR badges front and rear (replacing the oval Ford badges), Range Rover lettering on the bonnet edge and Vogue badging on the back.. It fooled my colleagues for a while, took them a while to twig it was actually a Ford Explorer rebadged!
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The ones I saw were Philips Ultinon LED:
https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-x-treme-ultinon-led-headlamp-h4
There'a a review / comparison here:
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9 hours ago, miggit said:
From what I can tell it's only VOSA or the Police who will be interested in what is marked on your headlamps....
Or, unfortunately, your insurance company if you have an accident, especially if lighting / glare comes into it
Phillips apparently have a retrofit H4 / H7 LED bulb that works correctly in normal reflector housings, giving a very similar beam pattern to a filament bulb - however they are about £200 a pair, and aren't type approved so technically not usable on the roads..
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On 25/11/2017 at 10:34 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Time for another Land Rover!
It's a Defen...Series... something!
Isn't that Urban Truck's latest model?
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I think all the factory series v8's were 109s, I don't think they ever made them in 88s...
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Thanks everyone
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Subscribing to this as I have a 24v Sealey impact driver that has a dead NiCd pack.
I've read about zapping them with extra voltage, not tried it (or heard of anyone who has!) though. Possibly it was only for NiCd not other chemistries though....
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It should work - this is the route I'm going down shortly. You can also run a second map on the the MS for fuel/spark just for LPG and fine tune the LPG map, probably better than you could with the LPG ECU..
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Hi
The time is almost here to pull out the wheezy 3.5 and replace it with a shiny 4.6
However - as it's an auto it's possibly a little more complex than with a manual. Are there any pearls of wisdom as to how to split it and put it back together?
ie. are we better off splitting the box from the engine, and leaving the torque converter bolted to the engine or unbolting it (via the inspection cover?) and leaving it in the gearbox? Likewise when refitting it? I believe Ashcroft recommend leaving it in the box.
Any advice much appreciated!
Cheers
Jon
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On 17/11/2017 at 11:18 AM, reb78 said:
IThere is also a black area directly in front of the car that doesnt affect driving at all (as you arent looking there) but also takes some getting used to!
The Gen 2 TL's have apparently fixed this. I have the same Gen 1 lights, in 90% of conditions they are brilliant - however there's a 10% that's something to do with the ambient light and the road, it seems to be especially when the road is damp, when they don't seem to light up the road much. I fitted the old Wipac clear units with Phillips uprated bulbs that came off the 110 in the MX5 a few weeks ago, and they are noticeably worse than the Trucklites - almost to the point of me considering getting another set...
If you look on ebay you can get some 'Lite Truck' rip-offs for about £120 now, however I don't think they are a lot of kop - there's some threads about them on defender2.net..
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If it doesn't work out I'll be over there the first two weeks of Jan - and you could get it delivered to our US office a few weeks before FAO me...
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Nope - it's all clean and dry... The relay board is in a waterproof box, mounted up on the top of the firewall behind the inlet manifolds, so shouldn't get too hot...
I'll replace the fuse holders, clean it up and try it again, as you said it might just be oxidation of the contacts that's caused a high resistance joint and for it all to get a bit hot...
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Slight update - spend ages going round in circles trying to figure out what's wrong with it - in the end I took it out of the car, soldered a 12v regulated PSU to the main power feed, and.....
It powered up, would successfully accept firmware and stay working as well as could be expected to running on the bench...
Put it back in the car, back to the bootloader mode. Back on the bench and it's working again...
Started digging round in the wiring, popped the cover on the relay board in the engine compartment, the main input fuse was melted (20A), as was the fuel pump fuse (10A from what I can tell). There's enough of a voltage drop somewhere to cause the MS to not boot up properly
I've extricated the PCB from the case, the back of the board is a bit scorched and the main fuse holder has actually got hot enough to melt solder off the leg and disconnect itself...
Everything else looks intact, so I've ordered some more holders from farnell and will have to go over the rest of the wiring with a meter to try and work out both why it didn't blow the fuses but melted them - I'm guessing it's something on the fuel pump side..
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Black box, on a multipoint setup on a v8 it has 8 pipes coming out of it that go to the gas feeds on the manifold, kind of looks a bit like a spider if you squint
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Not as far as I can tell - Tunerstudio queries the ports for all the standard baud combinations and just won't see it...
I can't figure it out either - if it was the main chip, I wouldn't expect it to fire up in bootloader mode and be flashed.
It it's a short somewhere causing it to get stuck in bootloader mode, then during the flash sequence when it asks you to enable/disable the flash jumper it wouldn't work.
If it was a serial port chip error then the flashing wouldn't work.
Am a bit stumped... Have posted on the MS forums, hopefully someone on there can shed some light!
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That was the first thing tried
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I'm not so sure it's actually stuck in the bootloader now - it just appears to not start up... It won't get detected by tunerstudio / the command line firmware loaders unless you put the boot jumper on. If you do so, and follow the flashing process it accepts the firmware fine, but then doesn't work afterwards...
I'm curious as to why it's suddenly died though - other than connecting up a rev counter to it a few hundred miles ago, nothing else has changed...
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Hi
My megasquirt has decided to pack up
It's been working fine for the past few years, however last night I jumped into it and it wouldn't start. Looking at the MS lights, all 3 are on flashing very very fast, so it looks like they are continuously on. Plugging tunerstudio in, it won't connect, but if I detect ports it says that it can detect an MS in bootloader mode. I've opened up the case, the boot jumper is disconnected, and I can't see anything amiss, shorts etc.
I've tried reloading the firmware, it goes through the process and it appears to accept it OK, however once it's finished installing the firmware, you end up back at the same point with Tunerstudio either not detecting it, or saying there's no firmware loaded..
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Jon
Simple things done well... (Air vent related content!)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks. To the uninitiated, most of that was totally unintelligible
If you wanted a good starter printer that could do a wide range of stuff, what sort of thing would you be looking at?