=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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Hi
I've found some threads but not a definitive answer - what's the 'best' way to sort out the oil system when fitting a serp v8 into a defender (factory v8, if it makes any difference)...
It doesn't like you can use the standard filter, as it may hit the axle.
Take off pump cover plates from earlier models don't fit the cross bolted block. It doesn't look like you can get a bolt on remote filter plate for cross bolted blocks so you have to use a spin on sandwich plate / take off.
There are oil cooler ports on the block already - do you just loop these, or run the to the cooler and another pipe run to the remote filter, or could you fit a cover plate (ie. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/cover-plates) over the filter housing and run a remote filter + cooler straight from these?
Confused of Wiltshire!
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I did a bit of research when I was buying my L322 about getting a petrol (ford/Jag) v8 engined one and adding LPG.
From what I could gather, they suffered quite badly from valve seat recession problems when run on LPG, even with flashlube. I also read that even running petrol only they could suffer, although at much higher mileages. One of the specialists offered a revalved/seated head with harder materials for running on LPG.
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Sorry - the britpart one wasn't advertised as stainless, and it 'works', but it's just not great. I was after a better one...
Have found a stainless one at Rimmer:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR199
Which looks a bit better, but I'm not sure if anyone on here has tried it yet (I know need4speed bought one, but I don't think his landy is back on the road yet)
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Hi
I'm after a decent quality RRC v8 Stainless Y pipe - the bit that goes from the cast manifolds back. I'm currently using NTC7320 from Britpart, but the quality is utter carp:
https://www.devon4x4.com/ntc7320-exhaust-front-pipe-358758.html
Where each of the pipes merges they are basically squashed in half which must hurt flow, , the slip joints needed welding to stop them leaking and it's starting to rust out even though it's only a couple of years old.
Any suggestions for decent off the shelf stainless ones? ISTR one of the manufacturers did one as part of a sports exhaust package but I can't find it at the moment...
Thanks
Jon
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The Lego one will probably have better build quality too
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There are a lot of chinese made rods floating around - in general they seem to be OK, although they may require fettling - sometimes the little ends may need reaming a little to fit the pin through, stuff like that.. Most of them seem to be made in the same factory then random names are slapped on the side.
My other 'toy' other than the defender is a mk1 MX5, which has a rather large aftermarket turbo sat on the side of it running 'somewhat' more power than standard. We rebuilt the engine using chinese rods with no issues at all, and there's a LOT of people who have done the same with mazda engines (including with the brand you linke)...
The general consensus is if you want the absolute best and budget is no issue (ie. race motor or crazy crazy power), then you can pay the extra for the really exotic rods from a brand name, but for a normal road car the chinese ones are fine...
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My 322 (with the 6 speed auto) used to do a very similar thing with the gearbox - it would roll up to a junction in second, you'd put your foot down there'd be a pause then a massive driveline thump as it dropped to 1st and pulled away. Very un-RR like.
There was a software update for it via GAP, but to be honest it didn't make much difference...
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Does it have the adaptive dampers?
If it's a similar setup to the full fat RR, there's an adaptive damping recallibration that you can do with an IID Tool (may need the beta firmware on it)..
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I *think* the overheating is in the BMW engined ones - they ran very hot as standard so any cooling system issues would push them over the edge..
In the guides on fullfatrr.com the jag petrol engined ones are supposed to be a lot more reliable than the diesels (apart from the 5.0 SC with it's cam tensioner issues).
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How many miles a year do you do?
If it's lowish miles, get an older 4.2SC and put the savings towards petrol? The Jag 4.4 petrol is supposed to be the most reliable L322, followed by the 4.2SC...
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They won't have been ECE certified, and the bowls you are putting them in won't have been certified with LED emitters, so technically they won't be road legal (and will fail a properly done MOT).
What's more likely to stop you from fitting them is that without a projector type headlight assembly the light will be all over the place and blind everyone...
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12 hours ago, L19MUD said:
You also need to map them out if you go that route - I think Bell Auto Services can do it
I read conflicting reports - BAS say that it will need mapping out, and there's a butterfly elsewhere that will need removal - but the EGRs have to stay electrically connected otherwise it'll throw an error. All the remap does is stop them from actuating. BAS remap would have been about £600 from what I remember, plus another £150 for the EGR patch...
If you remove them fully, you need EGR Emulators which fool the system into thinking they are still there.
A few people have fitted the EGR blanking kits, left the EGRs electrically connected and have not remapped and not had any warning lights..
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12 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Touch wood my turbos and gearbox have been fine. I'm now at 96k miles
The adaptive suspension error you talk about is almost certainly the wire that goes into the offside front strut top - the wire gets brittle and breaks. I have also fitted one ride height sensor to mine. Only other fault I have has is the alternator which is a pig of a job due to location.....
Build quality of mine seems very good - maybe Jon had a Friday afternoon special?
Turbo failed on mine at 115K, ish. No warning, pulled onto a motorway slip road, put my foot down and then a complete loss of power, LOTS of smoke and a trip on a recovery truck. It looked like the passenger side was spewing oil into the inlet. Not really a DIY change either - passenger side one is a right pig to get to
When I got it I asked about the EGRs - I was told if they stick which is the normal cause of turbo failure then you get a warning light on the dash - it's then if people carry on driving it it will kill the turbos as they get stressed. I had no such warnings, so possibly it was just the turbo letting go, unrelated to the EGR. EGR blanking kit may need mapping out in software, I looked at it and some people said it will throw a warning light, some said it might do, others had done it and it didn't...
I also had the gearbox properly serviced when I got it (and paperwork said it had been done before but Cam Tech had a look at the oil and reckoned that it hadn't been done properly) - so that's no guarantee of TC lasting, although it does look fairly uncommon.
Height sensor issue was the drivers rear side - possibly damp or gremlins in the wiring somewhere, but typically the day after I ordered the sensor (£100) the warning message went away and never came back!
If I was to get another one, I'd probably get a petrol one - I don't see the future being bright for diesel at the moment. The trouble is the older 4.2s are reliable but don't have the facelift goodies, and the facelifted ones are the 5.0 which has it's own set of issues (timing chain tensioners) which are £3000 ish to sort out..
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I've recently got rid of my 2010 3.6 TDV8. As said EGRs / Turbos can cause issues - the two are linked - failing EGRs causes the turbos to have to work too hard, which can result in big bills (around £3500 for 2x turbos and a new pair of EGRs), but the turbos can fail on their own as well.
The 6 speed box is supposed to be better than the earlier ones, but torque converters can play up - that's another £1000 please to get it swapped before it breaks up and trashes the rest of the box. When they start to fail they don't completely lock up - light throttle on hills the revs will rise/fall.
It also had some random electrical issues - radar cruise control would occasionally lock itself out until the car was turned off and on again, and there was an adaptive suspension error that would regularly occur over the course of 2 months then cleared itself up never to come back.
Tailgate on mine was rusty as well.
Overall it was a very nice place to travel in, but the running costs are not cheap - they are not a car you can run on a budget! The build quality on mine was also a bit iffy IMHO for something that's supposed to be the pinnacle of luxury - quite a few trim rattles, inside the doors, the passenger side door shut lines were all off (although it didn't appear to have ever been bumped).
I did like it though, and I'd probably consider another one at some point!
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20 minutes ago, ThreeSheds said:
I guess that overall I am pleased that there is nothing too bad, lets hope it stays that way!
I would take the faults that the IID tool reports with a minor pinch of salt - you get quite a lot of white noise from it. My old L322 used to report all sorts of errors - fan circuits open, drivers seat circuits open, speakers etc etc. If you cleared them, they'd come back again fairly soon. Everything worked though, so no idea why things would trigger...
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11 hours ago, western said:
If the led lights are E marked & left hand dip, then he should pass them, the beam pattern is flat topped but should still pass, look online for the mot testers manual & shove it in his face.
The 'named brands' LED lights (Trucklite, Nolden, JW Speaker, VisionX, possibly even Britpart) are fully road legal - they have the correct E Markings and beam pattern.
A lot of the chinese imports that you get from ebay claim to have the right markings but don't - so they are an MOT fail (although to a certain extent it depends on the tester if the beam pattern is ok).
From defender2:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62722.html
QuoteSorry Stu, but a headlight with just DOT, SAE and E + number in a circle is not approved for road use in Europe no matter what a seller might tell you.
Legal trail start with, Vehicle Lighting Regulations, move on to Approval marks act, then go to UNECE Regulations.
An approval mark for LED headlights consist of several parts
1). Country code which has done the approval, call wrongly an E marked,
2) Approval or amendment number
3) Actual approval number 4-6 digits
4) Light function code this is HCR for LED headlight, A for side light, RL for DRL
5) if plastic lens PL
6) Peak beam reference number, typically 12.5/17.5/25
7) LHT then an arrow
Now if the light is more then dip and main beam then it can be done under one approval number.
Light at front only white as steady light except yellow for old style French headlights. If you can change light colour illegal.
Halo turns amber and flash when you indicate high chance of being illegal! Definitely illegal with original indicator working.
If you want to know how good your seller of LED headlights is ask them to explain the markings and especially what numbers like 12.5/17.5/25 actually mean and the legal requirements for peak beam reference number.
If your headlights do not have the correct approval markings on then your vehicle is not road legal. Passing an MOT does not make it road legal. Non road legal vehicle makes serious problems with your insurance policy.
Brendan -
32 minutes ago, BogMonster said:
It doesn't look to have nearly enough controls to be real/final so could be a concept model.
Everything will be driven from the ipad in front of the gearstick - because we all know touch screen controls are perfect for wet, muddy cold environments, work well with gloves, can be operated without having to look at a mixture of the screen and the instruction manual when on the motorway at 70 etc etc...
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Just been a thing on the local news (HTV West) about a company based in Sling who were stealing / stripping various Land Rovers - looks to be the same people.
Somebody Barrington appears to have just been given a jail sentence at Bristol court for it. I didn't catch all the snippet to get the full details. It doesn't appear to be on the BBC News site yet either..
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2 minutes ago, Scotts90 said:
Out of interest, how many commenters have owned and ran recent JLR vehicles?
Until very recently I had a 2010 L322 TDV8 RR. It cost me more in repairs than any other vehicle that I've owned. Incidentally, the second highest in repairs would have been the Toyota LC 120 that I owned, but all the works for that were carried out under Toyota warranty...
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Possibly smooths airflow over the bottom of the suspension / wishbones when at speed?
My old L322 had similar fitted...
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2 hours ago, Daragh said:
I probably have it wrong as it shows as a negative value but it has one of the drop down options 'Fuel Press'. See attached....?
Unless you know you have a fuel pressure sensor hooked up, it's probably a red herring - MS has lots of inputs that can be used for allsorts, so if one of them is mis defined or isn't there but is enabled in software you can get weird bogus readings...
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I like the look of that
I had a D4 3.0TDV6 as a loan car for a week or so when the 322 was in the garage. It had obviously led a hard life prior to becoming a loan car, but it was really nice - near RR levels of comfort, rode well and was absolutely cavernous inside.
Serp v8 into v8 Defender - Oil Cooler / Remote Filter
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted · Edited by =jon=
Thanks. Looks like a remote filter head as lo-fi linked as above is the best option.
I've already got an oil cooler and a remote filter head, but it's previously been plumbed in without a stat - I might look at adding a stat in as well to help with warm up times
It looks like Fridge looped the oil cooler hoses using M20 x 1.5 fittings from his thread
Edit - just found this - looks like the ports can be blanked : https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7310