=jon=
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Posts posted by =jon=
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12 hours ago, reb78 said:
The text on theor chassis pages is a copy and paste of the sheilder text and gives the same impression. Is it the same for the bulkheads?
No, the text is different and some of the details are the same - eg. thicker metal and a few other bits and bobs...
I'm not in the market enough to want to waste their time by calling them to ask for specifics - new chassis and bulkhead are very much long term plans, hence the idle curiosity if anyone else knew - I know there have been a few threads about bulkheads in the past..
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It's not clear from the description - they sell Shielder chassis, along with Richards / Marsland etc, but there's no brand name associated with the bulkheads, and the blurb insinuates that they make them themselves...
I know a few people have had big problems with Shielder bulkheads, just wondering if these were any better!
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Hi All
Idly pricing up options for a galv chassis and bulkhead, and it appears that Terrain Tech are now making their own bulkheads from scratch:
It doesn't look like they are anyone else's rebranded, but looking at the Shielder site suggests that Terrain Tech are one of their main distributors...
Does anyone know if it's just Shielder under a different name? Some of the details are different - eg. 1.5mm vs 1.6mm thickness and a few other bits and pieces...
Wondered if anyone had any experience of them..
Jon
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FWIW in case anyone else is trying to figure stuff out...
I reckon the throttle pull is approx 1.5" / 3.8cm.
I reckon the kickdown pull is about 1cm longer, from slack until you get over the 'click' to indicate kickdown - so 1.9" / 4.81cm
Next plan is to see if I can rig up another pulley on the thor throttle body of about the right size to mean you get kickdown at about wide open throttle...
Looks like someone else had a similar issue, but has access to a lathe and more resources/skill than me!
https://discoweb.org/index.php?threads/bosch-intake-on-a-d1.96998/
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I think only the cat Y pipes have lambda bosses in them - neither of my ones did. We ended up putting a boss in the TD5 rear section after the Y ourselves..
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BTW - if you want a RRC auto Y pipe to suit 3.9 cast manifolds for nowt, I have a **itpart one left over - I swapped to a stainless one.
It's not great, but doesn't leak and might help get you up and running. Collection only from N Wilts or South Gloucestershire though!
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I have a single feed to the expansion tank from the top of the rad. I think mines a standard v8 rad - there's a second port that the throttle heater hose (4) would go to, but I've bypassed the throttle as it leaks - so I have 3 connected to the top of the rad. I've not got the expansion tank to bottom heater hose connection.
I ditched the weird octupus external thermostat thing - more for simplicity than anything else. It makes the pipe runs much neater - much more like a 'standard' top hose / bottom hose setup.
The location of the 4.6 oil filter is quite close to where the axle / diff housing ends up under articulation. I put a remote filter plate there to give a bit more clearance, as well as a thermostatic oil take off plate by the filter to the cooler. The on block oil cooler take offs are blanked off.
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Hi
I've got a 4HP22 which I believe is from a v8 RRC in my 110 - however the throttle end of the kickdown cable has had to be fabricated as the mechanisms are different (I've got a Thor top end, which AFAIK never had a mechanical kickdown).
I've played around with the adjustment - following the process at: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/89827-zf4hp22-kick-down-adjustmentquestions/ and even with it wound out to the 3.5mm suggested by Bowie it will change at about 3500-4000RPM even with your foot flat to the floor. I am wondering if the amount of 'pull' is wrong, so even on full throttle it is only pulling the kickdown cable 3/4 of the way out...
So - if someone with a proper setup could measure how much the kickdown cable is pulled out between no and full throttle that would be great
Likewise if anyone has a Thor v8 with mechanical kickdown I'd be interested to see how you have it set up...
Thanks
Jon
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28 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
3. You'll need a fair length of heater hose and to tee into the bottom rad hose I think, the outlet on the inlet manifold is tapped 1/2" BSP from memory so that bit's easy.
From memory the Thor setup has a push fitting with an O ring and a securing bolt - there's a hard pipe that runs to the back of the manifold to which you can run a short length of heater hose to the defender heater. You can also replace it with one of these:
Thor 'Inlet Manifold Coolant Take Off' Pipe - Conversion Unit
https://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_thor.php
I did very similar to you for the heater return to the bottom hose though...
I also ditched the funny thermostat setup, used one of the kits from Nige and a straight fitting for a TVR out of the front of the block for the top hose...
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6 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
The back half yes, the front half (downpipes & Y-piece) of a stock Defender V8 system is really piddly and (I believe) won't mount to non-Defender manifolds because of angles and diameters etc.
Then again, I think people get overly exercised about exhausts and snorkels and things as if a 2-ton brick is an F1 car
, with a petrol engine unless you're using wide-open-throttle at high RPM all the time you're not going to notice a restriction.
I went from a totally standard factory v8 exhaust system to the 3.9 cast manifolds / RRC Y and TD5 rear and could notice a difference on an asthmatic 3.5, so I'd imagine you'd notice it a lot more on a 4.6...
I think a lot of the aftermarket tubular headers shift the power up the rev range at the expense of low end oomph - something to do with long collectors vs. short collectors.
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4 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:
For the exhaust, do I need to change the Thor manifolds for a set of Defender V8 ones and use the DV8 downpipes and Y piece? Once the Y piece is on the V8, does the rest of the system then run down the passenger (UK) side as the TD5 does?
I believe that the standard DV8 exhaust bore will probably be too restrictive for the 4.6 but that the TD5 intermediate and rear sections are okay. To mate up the V8 Y section to the TD5 intermediate section, do I need to fabricate a suitable joint or are there parts that will just bolt together and use the existing exhaust hangers?
My aim is to use as many off the shelf items as possible so that spares don’t become an issue in the future.
For the exhaust - I'm using Disco / RRC (?) 3.9 cast manifolds, a RRC 3.9 Auto Y pipe, and a TD5 rear end from the Y pipe back. You need to modify the gearbox crossmember to clear, but then everything lines up and works with standard factory bits.. You may need to make up some hangars for the TD5 back half but it's not too far off fitting...
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47 minutes ago, Bigj66 said:
Is yours the GEMS or Thor engine?
It's a bit of a mixture - Thor inlet, Serp 4.6 bottom end and a random PAS pump that I sourced because we didn't have one. It's different to FF's GEMS setup above, anyway..
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On 1/23/2020 at 10:45 AM, FridgeFreezer said:
This is how the local hydraulics place did it - clean up the end, compression olive fitting into a standard 3/8" BSP (I think) hose fitting so then a replacement hose is just a standard jobby. Did the same on the PAS box end if memory serves.
I've just done similar for my 4.6 install, but my PAS pump was a different layout - there was a union on the pump end rather than a screw in fitting, and the union is on the passenger side of the pump, not on the top. We took the pump and the original PAS pipe that runs across the front crossmember to the local hydraulics supplier and they made up a flexi hose to fit and a standard compression fitting for the hardline across the crossmember. If I remember I'll take a pic of how it's setup tomorrow...
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Someone on t'other forum has put RRS sport seats in a DCPU : https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70499.html?highlight=sport+seats
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Mine has twin 45L(ish) cylindrical tanks underneath - between the chassis and the sills on each side. They sit a little below the main chassis rails but not a lot - if you are planning on hardcore off roading then it probably isn't the best setup but for 'normal' use you'd be pretty unlikely to catch them. Advantage is that you keep the full size petrol tank and don't lose any interior space...
If you are interested, I've just upgraded mine from a BLOS gas carb to multipoint, so will have all of the frontend bits going for sale on here at some point soon...
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18 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
CHELSEA: It’s important to maintain momentum on Chelsea high street so the system heightens engine and gearbox response, and unlocks the centre differential.
SCHOOL RUN: Under the harsh conditions of the school run maximum control is needed, so Terrain Response softens the accelerator response to ensure Tarquin and Hermione don't get car sick.
PAVEMENT: Electronic Traction Control intervenes early to allow the mounting of pavements to facilitate illegal parking. Normally used in conjunction with SCHOOL RUN.
TRAFFIC JAM: Adaptive Cruise Control is used to allow easy driving in traffic. Often used in conjunction with mobile phone use and make up application.
GENERAL: Terrain Response maximises fuel efficiency and minimises emissions in everyday road driving.Edited to reflect reality...
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The P38 manifolds will end up exiting towards the bulkhead, so would need chopping / adjusting to get them to clear.
3.9 RRC Auto manifolds & Y pipe will bolt straight up, and come very close to lining up with the standard exhaust system. I have 3.9 manifolds / Y and a TD4 back section on my v8. Not sure how close they are are to the clutch slave as mine's an auto, but there's a few people that have done the same conversion on here who should be able to advise. It's quite close to the starter on the other side, but you can get heat shields from the RRC which help.
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2 hours ago, elbekko said:
If you've got a Thor inlet, and are using EDIS coil packs, why not just use the factory Bosch coil packs with their pretty factory mount? They're at least as good and operate exactly the same...
Not sure if that was for me or not - it's an already complete setup that was pre-made when I got the car, we are just swapping it from one engine to another...
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HoSS mounted the coil packs on the back when he did the conversion on what's now my 110 - there's a flat plate across the back behind the inlet (from memory it may mount via two existing tapped holes on the thor inlet) with the 2 coil packs mounted to that. I'll probably be down with the car / engine at the weekend, I'll try and remember to take pics. It's all out at the moment as a 4.6 is going in
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The oil coolers I've seen as part of the rad before have been for an auto box, and not rated for high pressure engine oil.
Not saying that's how the disco is, but worth checking before splashing out!
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We are running what appears to be the standard v8 rad, and the plan is to get it flow checked while it's all apart.
The cooler we have is pretty small (8" x 4" or so, off the top of my head) so it's not going to make a massive difference anyway, I'll probably look at a beefier one and a stat to help with warm up times then...
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We are running a later P38 4.6 setup. The current plan is to run a Mocal remote take off place (part number TOP1C) with a remote filter head.
I've got some M20 x 1.5 plugs coming which we will block the cooler ports with.
Debating about what to do with the oil cooler - on the 3.5 it was inline with the filter, but from what I've read on here the oil doesn't run particularly hot anyway, so may either put a stat on it or just not bother entirely..
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I found this pic posted elsewhere on here - it looks like if you have the factory cooler there are special fittings which divert some/all of the oil through the cooler - without these I'm not sure how much oil would go to the remote filter if you used those ports:
Likewise if anyone has a Thor v8 with mechanical kickdown I'd be interested to see how you have it set up... 
, with a petrol engine unless you're using wide-open-throttle at high RPM all the time you're not going to notice a restriction.
Megasquirt V8 Wiring - A detailed "How to" Guide
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
One thing to bear in mind for anyone about to attempt this:
Technically the injector doesn't care, but the owner may in the future.... If you ever want to fit a multipoint LPG kit, this has to be connected on the negative side of the injector. If you try and connect it to the positive side, it won't work...
So my advice would be:
Pick a standard for when you put the injector plugs on. Then write it down
There appears to be two manufacturers ways of wiring it up:
Standard : Pin 1 Positive, Pin 2 Negative
Inverted : Pin 1 Negative, Pin 2 Positive
(Wiring loom side, I believe pin 1 is to the right when looking at the back of the connector with the metal clip at the top).
It looks like LR use the Inverted standard from the factory.
It may save you a lot of faffing around in the future. You can guess how I know this! 🙄